Step by step instructions on how to build. A complete do-it-yourself frame house construction technology from frame selection to exterior finish. Advantages and disadvantages

Frame houses are called energy efficient for a reason. Residential buildings of this type consume 30% less energy in winter than those built using conventional technology. The advantages include ease of assembly of structures, low weight and availability of materials. Mounting a frame house with your own hands is quite a feasible task for a person who has the skills to work with wood and a stock of necessary tools. A detailed step-by-step instruction will help him in this.

Frames are erected on average in 2-4 months. The experience of cold Scandinavian and North American countries confirms the strength and durability of structures. In a short period of time, comfortable housing appears on the construction site, the price of which is 15-20% lower than brick or concrete. Construction in Russia frame houses gaining momentum. It is standardized by the document SP 31-105-2002, which was based on Canadian and American developments.

The frame house is a rigid system of support posts, horizontal and inclined ties, based on a pile, pile-grillage, slab or strip foundation of shallow depth. In the classic version, the space between the racks is filled with insulation. Most often - basalt wool. Outside and inside the structure is sheathed with finishing materials.

Another way to build a frame house is to install walls and ceilings from rigid SIP panels, consisting of two OSB boards and a layer of expanded polystyrene between them. Systems are assembled in different ways. In the first case, the frame is installed element by element or in blocks, in the second case, large-sized panels are mounted as a constructor, following the sequence. The easiest way to assemble a frame house with your own hands is a step-by-step installation of the carrier system, insulation and decoration. At the same time, construction lifting mechanisms and a large team of the working team will not be needed. All operations can be performed independently or with the help of 1-2 friends.

Prices for cement and mixture bases

Step 1: Foundation for a frame house

A house on a frame is a lightweight structure that does not require a powerful buried foundation. Load bearing capacity pile or strip bases with a laying of up to 50 cm is sufficient to ensure the perception and transfer of the load from the structure to the soil.

Pile foundations - rods buried in the ground made of concrete, reinforced concrete or metal. Their advantages:

• fast installation;
• a small amount of earthworks or even their absence;
• a short interval between the completion of the installation of foundations and the further installation of structures.

An exception is the installation of monolithic piles and grillage. Here you need to wait until the concrete gains strength. It usually takes 1-2 weeks. Since the load will increase gradually, it is not necessary to wait for the standard period of 28 days to proceed with the installation of the frame.

Metal piles are screwed in with manual or mechanized drilling equipment. Ready-made concrete anchors are immersed in the holes made by driving or indenting equipment. The construction of such foundations takes 1-3 days and is carried out by specialized organizations.

Monolithic bored piles can be made independently. Concrete of a grade not lower than M 200 is used. Roofing material twisted by a tube is used for formwork. It is placed in the hole, a reinforcing cage of 3-4 rods is installed inside. The solution is poured into the cavity of the structure, compacted in layers with a vibrating tool.

On the top of the piles, load-bearing crossbars made of metal, concrete or wood are mounted on the heads. In this case, the underground remains open.

Pile foundation with a hanging reinforced concrete grillage.

The grillage connects individual piles into a rigid stable system. May be:

• hanging;
• ground;
• buried.

In the latter case, this is an analogue of a shallow strip foundation. It is made of monolithic reinforced concrete around the perimeter of the house and under the load-bearing partitions. The pit is dug to a depth of 30-50 cm, covered with sand and gravel.

Formwork is installed on the pillow. Steel frames are placed inside, which are rigidly tied with the reinforcement of the piles. To fasten the lower strapping beam, metal studs with a diameter of 12 mm with a thread are prepared in advance. They are welded or screwed with wire to the frame rods every 150-200 cm along the length of the grillage. Fasteners should be located at a distance of no more than 30 cm from the corners of the foundation and protrude 13-15 cm above the upper edge of the structure.

Recessed grillage device.

Previously, on the formwork, the installation sites of the racks are marked so that they do not coincide with the fasteners for the horizontal beam.

The surface of the base is treated with waterproofing mastic, 2-3 layers of roofing material or other moisture-proof material are laid.

A monolithic foundation is arranged in a similar way. If the base is a slab, concrete is poured over the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe house with a protrusion of 20 cm beyond the perimeter. The thickness of the structure is 10-20 cm, reinforcement is welded mesh.

- almost finished base under the floors. Particular attention should be paid to insulation. Expanded polystyrene plates are used, which are laid on crushed stone preparation. They are not afraid of moisture, do not rot, retain thermal insulation properties for 50 years.

When concreting monolithic slabs sleeves are mounted for supplying communications. They provide access when laying water or sewer pipes. Underground passages must be equipped in advance, otherwise it will be very difficult to lay channels later.

In ground and shallow foundations installation of sleeves is needed for ventilation of the underground space. In frame structures, this is very important point, which cannot be neglected. Hoods reduce air humidity, which has a detrimental effect on wooden structures.

Step 2: Bottom rail and floor

The lower harness, or bed, is a horizontal structure that transfers the load from the entire house to the foundation. It is made from a well-dried edged board 50x150 mm or a bar with a section of 100x150 mm.

We put the harness and lags

The sequence of operations for the installation of the bed:

1. Lay out along the perimeter of the foundation boards or bars treated with bioprotective compounds and flame retardants. Cut off excess.
2. Mark the location of the bolts by laying the bed on top and lightly hitting with a hammer over each fastener.
3. Drill holes with a powerful drill in places of dents. The diameter must be greater than the cross section of the bolt by 3 mm.
4. A heater is laid on the foundation - a fiberglass tape, a bed is installed on top.
5. Screw the nuts onto the bolts with washers with an impact wrench or manually with a wrench.
6. Control the horizontal bottom strapping level or building level. If you need to change the position of the beam, loosen the nut, put wooden wedges and raise it to a new level. The gap is filled with liquid concrete.

In the corners, the bars are joined “half-tree” or with a root tenon.

Bed laying.

The next step after laying the bed is the flooring. When installing a frame house using the "Canadian platform" method, they will serve as the basis for assembling wall blocks. If you intend to install the racks in series, it is more convenient to move along the finished floor than to constantly climb the stepladder.

Floors in a frame house are mounted in three ways:

• on the ground;
• by lags;
• on the finished slab foundation.

The floors along the logs are arranged in the house on a pile or strip foundation. In this case, a ventilated subfloor is formed between the bottom of the structure and the ground. Laying the lag is carried out in three ways:

• they rest on a bed and strengthen it from the outside with a facade board;
• installed in the grooves cut in the lower strapping;
• mounted end-to-end to the bed using metal brackets.

For logs, a beam with a section from 110x60 mm to 220x180 mm is used, depending on the distance between the supports. The larger the span, the more powerful the element should be.

The laying step is 50-60 cm. In places where heavy equipment or furniture is installed, beams are mounted more often - after 30-40 cm.

Floor joist installation.

The order of work when installing the floor on the logs on metal brackets:

1. Cut and cut the beams to the desired length.
2. They are installed on galvanized brackets, fixed with screws or nails.
3. Cranial bars with a section of 50x50 mm are nailed to the lower part of the lag.
4. Moisture-resistant plywood or OSB sheets are laid on the bars. The flooring will serve as the basis for the insulation.

With a span of more than 2.5 m, spacers are installed between the lags - pieces of timber or boards that give the system bending rigidity. They are fixed with nails, nailed to the end obliquely through the log.

The step of laying the spacers depends on the width of the span:

• 2.5-3.5 m - 1 element;
• 3.5-5.4 - 2 boards;
• 5.4-7.2 - 3 spacers;
• more than 7.2 m - from 4 pieces.

All wooden structures are treated with antiseptics and flame retardants before laying. This prolongs the life of the material and protects against rot, insects and fire.

Insulation and flooring

One of the main tasks, if we are building a frame house, is to reliably insulate all surfaces. Up to 10-15% of heat is lost through floors and basements, so special attention should be paid to thermal insulation of structures.

For the insulation of wooden floors, materials are used:

• granulated - expanded clay, slag, vermiculite;
• rolled - stone, glass, slag wool, polyethylene foam, cork;
• slabs of mineral wool, expanded polystyrene, chipboard;
• liquid - polyurethane foam, ecowool.

Waterproofing of dense films is spread over the flooring in 2 layers with an overlap of 10-15 cm. Granular, slab or roll insulation is laid with a thickness corresponding to the heat engineering calculation for the climate of a particular region. Usually it is 10-20 cm for mineral wool, 30 cm for expanded clay.

From above, the materials are covered with a vapor barrier membrane, through the pores of which moisture can evaporate into the atmosphere. The film is fixed with a stapler. To create a ventilation gap, counter rails are stuffed along the lags.

Important. If you do not create conditions for the evaporation of water in the underground space, over time, the insulation will become damp, and the wood will begin to rot.

Vapor barrier with ventilation gap.

On the counter rails, a finish coating with a soundproof gasket is mounted.

If foil materials are used for insulation, they are turned towards the room when laying. So the infrared rays will be reflected into the room.

Step 3: Frame Walls

Do-it-yourself frame house is assembled from individual elements, cutting and adjusting them at the construction site. Installation of larger sections or even entire structures prepared at the factory is possible.

Actual prices for timber of various types

Frame assembly methods

Prefabricated buildings today are built in the following ways:

• traditional - sequentially assemble the frame from racks, crossbars, jibs, insulate the walls, mount the sheathing;
• using the "Canadian platform" method - the sections are harvested horizontally on the subfloor and put them in the design position;
• from SIP panels - large elements cut at the factory are assembled on site using connecting bars and polyurethane glue;
• according to the German technology "half-timbered" - the frame boards, which are at the same time a decorative finish, are located outside the insulation;
• according to Swedish technology - the frame is assembled from two crates, the first is intended for installing insulation and fixing the exterior finish, the second is used for laying communications and installing the interior cladding.

Installation of the frame using the "Canadian platform" method.

In private construction, for do-it-yourself assembly, the classic method is more often used, which does not require complex installation work and the cost of lifting equipment.

Installation and section of racks

The stages of mounting frame racks include:

1. Marking on the subfloor covering of the installation sites of the racks. Usually the pitch is 60 cm. This is convenient for the subsequent laying of mineral wool slabs. In two-story buildings, the distance is reduced to 40 cm.
2. Cutting supports from a dry processed board 50 mm thick. The cross section is selected based on the bearing capacity.
3. Installation of racks in the corners, alignment, fastening with temporary jibs.
4. Installation of intermediate elements.
5. The connection of the supports with a beam of the upper trim.
6. Reinforcement of window and door lintels with boards laid on edge. If this is not done, during the deflection, the frame will be pinched, cracks will appear on the glass, facade decoration and internal wall surfaces.
7. Strengthening the frame with jibs from boards 100x25 or 150x25, cut into the upper and lower trim, steel perforated strips, horizontal lintels. Additional reinforcement is not required if the frame is sheathed with hard sheets of OSB, plywood.
8. Sheathing with a frontal board of beams of the upper and lower trim. It is recommended to lay a layer of basalt wool to insulate the structure.

To select the section of the racks, all loads acting on the supporting frame are summed up. If the building is small, then with a height of up to two floors, the dimensions of the timber are taken:

• for external walls - 150x50 mm, 200x50 mm;
• for internal partitions - 100x50 mm.

The strength of such sections is quite sufficient for the perception of vertical and lateral loads. In thermal engineering calculations, it may turn out that the placement of thermal insulation requires a greater than the calculated width of the racks.

It is not advisable to increase the cross section of the bearing beam. In this case, the insulation is laid in 2 layers - one between the racks of the frame, the second - along the outer crate with dressing. This arrangement will help to avoid heat loss through wooden elements, corners, framing openings.

Struts or braces

Braces or braces are installed temporarily to stabilize the frame during installation or permanently so that the structure retains its geometry for a long time.

The jibs in the frame are set obliquely.

In order for the permanent jibs to fulfill their role - to provide rigidity to the frame, when installing them, they follow the rules:

• elements are mounted with an inclination of 40 ° -60 °;
• jib thickness - no more than 1/4 of the height of the section of the rack;
• fastening the brace to the strapping - only by tie-in, with other types of articulation, drying out of the wood leads to a loss of stability of the knot;
• the jibs are cut flush with the uprights, strappings and jumpers;
• at least two braces are installed on one wall with an inclination in different directions;
• nailed to the racks along the length with 2-3 nails.

Instead of jibs in the corners of the frame, you can use sheets of OSB-3 12. Diagonal rigidity of the structure will be ensured.

Frame house corners

Angle is one of problem areas in a frame house. Installing a beam without an additional insulating layer leads to the formation of a cold bridge. Wood has a higher thermal conductivity than mineral wool, so the wall in the corner of the room can freeze through.

To prevent this from happening, structures are formed in one of four ways:

• From two racks. The joint of the two walls is reinforced with a finishing corner.

• "California" corner. A board or a strip of OSB is nailed to the extreme stand from the inside. A heater is inserted into the formed shelf.

• closed corner. The structure is formed by three boards connected by the letter P. In terms of the quality of insulation, this type of joint is better than the first, it requires laying an insulator from the outside.

• "Scandinavian" corner. The warmest of the three. They are assembled from three racks into such a pairing that practically no cold bridges are formed.

The first two methods are more technologically advanced, but their thermal insulation qualities are lower. At the junction of two walls there are through cracks that are very difficult to repair.

Step 4: Overlay

The device for overlapping a frame house is similar to installing a floor. Beams are attached to the upper harness from a board placed on the edge, a wooden I-beam, a bar or round timber, cut off on both sides.

The cross section of plank structures is chosen at the rate of 1/20-1/25 of the span width. For example, a room of 6x4 m is covered with load-bearing beams 400 cm / 20 = 20 cm high.

The installation step is 60-80 cm, the timber can be laid at distances of up to 1 m. It is advisable during installation to connect the floor beams and frame racks into a single flat element. This will give additional rigidity to the structure.

The elements are mounted on brackets end-to-end to the harness or laid on top and attached to the frontal board, placed on the edge.

Fixing beams with brackets.

Sequence of work:

1. A frontal board of 50x200 mm is installed around the perimeter of the house.
2. A middle beam with a section of 50x200 mm is laid along a long wall.
3. The logs are mounted in increments of 58 cm, fixing them with their ends to the frontal board and the middle beam.
4. All nodes are additionally shot with a nail gun or nails are nailed manually with a hammer.

Important. Fastening is allowed only with nails, self-tapping screws are not recommended.

If the span is more than 6 m, glued beams are used. It consists of thin wooden lamellas and resists bending much better than solid wood structures.

Step 5: Rafter system and roofing material

The rafter system of a frame house is mounted in several stages:

Proceed to the installation of the drainage system and roofing material - metal tiles:

1. Hooks for gutters are attached to the cornice strip with a slope towards the drainage pipes.
2. Lay the first four sheets of tiles without fixing. Align along the end and edge of the eaves, screw with self-tapping screws, counting from 8-9 pieces per 2 m². Hardware is attached to the bottom of the wave, using sealing gaskets made of rubber or polypropylene.
3. Install ridge elements and windshields.

Current prices for tiles

Step 6: Warming

Warming of a frame house is carried out according to the scheme:

1. Mount the vapor barrier film along the inner contour of the walls. It will protect the thermal insulation from water vapor, which penetrate from the warm room into the premises and condense in the thickness of the material. The junction points are glued with butyl rubber tape, fixed to the frame with a stapler.
2. To connect 2 sheets of film, double-sided tape is glued to the edge. Apply a vapor barrier with an overlap of 100 mm and press firmly.
3. Heat insulator plates, usually mineral wool, are cut to the size of the frame sections. The width of the material should be 10-20 mm greater than the distance between the uprights. Cut the insulation with a knife or saw with fine teeth.
4. Plates are installed between the frame elements in 2 layers with an offset of at least 150 mm. The total thickness of the insulation is 200 mm.
5. A hydro-windproof membrane is laid on the outside to protect the thermal insulation from blowing out and getting wet. Fasten to the racks with a stapler.
6. Joints are sealed with double-sided tape.

Now you can start finishing work. If the developer plans to build a frame house, step-by-step instructions will help you understand the principles and nuances of its construction.

In these houses, a wooden frame acts as a supporting base, which is assembled from beams, crossbars, racks and strapping. The frame takes the weight of the roof, floors and walls.

Particular attention in the construction of a frame house should be paid, when choosing lumber for the frame, the forest must be dry, geometrically even and free of fungi and pests.

According to labor costs and expenses building materials frame houses are one of the most economical structures.

Another advantage of such a house is the possibility of building it yourself. All construction works(roofing, installation of door and window blocks, cutting sheet materials, cutting beams and boards, laying a light foundation) do not require special professional building qualifications. Frame houses do not include heavy elements that require the use of lifting equipment for installation. How to build a frame house yourself will be discussed in this article.

Compared to houses made of beams and logs, frame houses have a number of operational advantages. Such houses are warmer, they do not have grooves between logs that require insulation. The frame house will not give precipitation. This facilitates construction and further operation. Frame house in significantly lesser degree affected by grinders, settling in massive bars and logs. When heated, such a house will warm up faster, it has less humidity. All these advantages attract developers to build a frame house.

Varieties of frame houses

Scheme of the pediment of a frame house.

Depending on the construction of the walls, there are 2 types of frame houses: frame-backfill and frame-panel. In frame-panel houses, the walls are separate and completely finished panels, which are made in advance and mounted on the construction site. Wall assembly is usually carried out somewhere in a warm place in autumn or winter.

Manufactured with high precision, on layout according to a template, with careful laying of windproof materials and insulation, neat inner and outer cladding, they allow you to quickly assemble a house with high quality construction. The size of the shields is chosen according to the length, which is equal to the height of the wall. The required width is selected depending on the size of the available sheathing material.

Frame-fill houses have walls that are assembled at the construction site from start to finish. On the racks of the frame, the inner lining is carried out with the laying of a vapor barrier layer (glassine, plastic wrap can be used). The inner space of the wall is filled with heat-insulating material.

In such structures, loose heaters are usually used: perlite sand, peat, sawdust. During the build-up of the outer skin, insulation is laid. Loose insulation to avoid precipitation and voids is tightly rammed.

The type of walls that are chosen for the house determines the design of the frame. Wall panels by themselves cannot bear the load. Frame-fill houses require the creation of a more durable frame.

Back to index

How to build a frame house?

Before proceeding with the construction of a frame house, a project is drawn up. According to the project, all necessary materials are calculated. The technology of creating a frame house includes several stages.

Scheme of a country frame house.

Tools and materials needed to create a frame house:

1. Small and large hammer.
2. Electric planer.
3. Chisels of various sizes.
4. Large and medium nail puller.
5. Drill with a set of drills.
6. Circular Saw.
7. Electric jigsaw.
8. Building level and plumb.
9. Marker and pencil.
10. Roulette.
11. Flat and Phillips screwdriver.
12. Tassels of various sizes.
13. Scaffolding.
14. Stairs.
15. Roofing material for waterproofing.
16. Asbestos pipes.
17. Reinforcement of various sections.
18. Concrete for pouring the foundation.
19. Boards of various sections and plates.
20. Styrofoam or mineral wool for insulation.
21. Lining or siding for exterior decoration.
22. Gypsum board for interior decoration.
23. Protective film.
24. Roof covering.
25. Communication materials: pipes, wires, etc.
26. Nails, metal staples, bolts.
27. Antiseptic coating.

Back to index

Building a foundation

Schematic of the wall structure.

Building a quality home requires a good foundation. To extend its durability, you must not forget to equip the waterproofing.

Since the weight of the frame house is small, most often a foundation is created under it from asbestos pipes. Along the perimeter of the future building, the location of the support points is marked. It is necessary to monitor the uniformity of the racks.

In the marked places, pits with a diameter of 200 mm and a depth of 1 m are pulled out. The pipe is inserted into the pit, its verticality is verified, and then the soil is carefully rammed.

After that, reinforcement is laid and the rack is poured with concrete. The same procedure is carried out with each column. After pouring, you need to give the pillars a few days so that they can get stronger properly.

Back to index

With the laying of the lower trim on the foundation, work begins on creating a frame house. It can be made from round wood cut into 2 edges. It would be even better to use a beam with a section of 120x120 mm (it is more convenient to work with it). If there is no suitable timber and logs, the lower and upper trims (and other frame elements) can be made from 40x120 mm boards.

The scheme of the lower strapping.

Wood for the lower strapping, which works in the most unfavorable conditions, is treated with an antiseptic. This will protect the wood from decay, and therefore extend the life of the structure. by the most in a simple way processing is impregnation with a 10% aqueous solution of iron or copper sulphate. This impregnation does not clog pores - the wood will be able to breathe. Beginning builders often make the mistake of impregnating the logs and lower beams with used machine oil and painting over with oil paint. This leads to rotting of the wood and the formation of house fungus. This is due to the fact that the oil closes the pores and does not allow moisture to evaporate.

If the lower trim is laid on a continuous strip foundation, then it is necessary to lay a dry, strong board 50 mm thick impregnated with hot bitumen between the beam and it. If erected columnar foundation, then between the pillar and the beam a segment of the same board is laid, wrapped with 2 layers of roofing material.

Between themselves, the beams are connected at the corners of the half-tree. At least at 4 points, the strapping must be fastened to the foundation using embedded metal anchors. It is necessary to strictly control the horizontalness with the help of building level.

Back to index

Covering the first floor

Having installed the lower harness on the foundation, you can start laying the logs along which the floors will be laid. Usually logs are made from a board 100-120 mm wide and 40-50 mm thick. With a wall module of 1.2 m, they are installed in increments of 0.6 m. You need to install the logs on the edge. They should rely on posts made of scrap steel or asbestos-cement pipes. After installation, under the logs you need to put bars, previously wrapped with roofing material.

Back to index

Installation of vertical racks

Scheme of fastening corner racks.

Vertical racks are installed at a distance of 0.6 m from each other. Thus, every 3 racks create a module of 1.2 m. The module is often selected depending on the width of the available windows.

According to the value of this indicator, the strapping is broken down. Corner drains make them more powerful. As a material, hewn logs, a bar or two boards connected with nails are used.

Intermediate racks are made of boards 40-50 mm thick. Above the door block, above and below the window block, horizontal crossbars are placed from the same boards. The window sill is necessarily supported by a short stand. Beams and logs are fastened with staples, and the racks are sewn to the strapping with nails 120 mm long.

The width of the racks is chosen depending on the insulation used. For example, using 100 mm thick mineral wool slabs, you will need 100 mm wide racks. It makes no sense to increase this size too much, since air voids do not improve thermal insulation, but can lead to slipping and sedimentation of the insulation. The use of bulk insulation eliminates such restrictions. The width of the racks is selected according to the dimensions of the available lumber (usually no more than 150 mm).

If the inner and outer wall cladding is done with boards, then it is necessary to make diagonal connections along the racks between the upper and lower trim. They will protect the house from wind loads, skew and uneven foundation settlement. In order for the boards not to interfere with filling with insulation, it is necessary to cut them perpendicular to the plane of the racks. If sheet material (asbestos-cement sheet, chipboard, plywood) is used as sheathing, then it is not necessary to install wind ties. To give the house the necessary rigidity, sheathing sheets are nailed to the frame. After the racks are set, you can mount the top trim on them. It is made using the same materials and using the same techniques as the bottom one. With the help of nails and staples, it is fastened to the racks.

The fastest way to build a house with your own hands is to opt for frame technology. At the same time, much less money is spent on the construction of a frame house than on another type of construction. All the work can be done independently, drawing up a detailed diagram and guided by step-by-step instructions. Many moments are well covered in thematic videos, some nuances become clear when viewing the photos posted in the article.

Choice of technology, site, foundation

Most often, frame houses are built using two technologies: frame-frame and frame-panel. Whereas, using the 2nd method, installation work will have to be carried out with the involvement of special equipment, the first technology allows you to do it on your own.

Having decided on the method of construction, you should study the site in detail. The best option is when it is elevated and fairly dry. If there are old trees in the place allotted for construction, then they must be carefully uprooted. If some of the roots remain, then young shoots will go and this will lead to the destruction of the foundation.

Professional builders do not recommend building a frame house with a height of more than 2 floors. Since the house is light, a strong foundation is not needed. Its purpose is to ensure the stable position of the frame. As for the type, columnar, tape, based on concrete blocks are suitable. For rigidity, reinforcement is laid in the strip foundation, and a grillage is arranged in the column foundation, using a monolithic tape or channel for this.

Caution: Avoid areas of unstable soil where groundwater comes close to the surface.

Step-by-step instructions for building a frame house with your own hands

The beauty of frame construction is that a house can be built in one season. At the same time, the light weight of the materials allows you to do without heavy construction machines and do all the work almost yourself.

As for quality, a properly built and beautifully finished frame house is difficult to distinguish from a log house. In terms of finance, it will cost much less due to the fact that just this very bar will take much less.

Communications, subfloor

The frame house is designed so that the installation of communications is carried out during the construction of the foundation. For engineering networks, recesses are arranged in the ground, they are waterproofed and insulated. In this case, all connections are applied to the circuit in order to facilitate further installation.

After that, proceed to the device of the subfloor. Often they opt for a concrete screed, about 100 mm high. Adhere to the following technology:

• formwork is installed;
• lay heat and waterproofing layer;
• pour concrete;
• install logs on a frozen screed;
• insulate the structure by spreading basalt wool or expanded polystyrene between the lags;
• lay out the boards on the logs.

frame

The next stage of construction is the construction of the frame. It is the basis of this type of house and is a structure consisting of vertical posts, crossbars, horizontal strapping. It is made from both wood and metal. A wooden frame is a simpler and cheaper option, in which case you do not need to use welding equipment.

For a wooden frame, you need high quality wood with a maximum moisture content of 12%. The minimum section of the bars is 15 x 15 cm, and the length is selected according to the height of the house. The corners are connected by the thorn-groove method so that there are no gaps at all. Beams are attached to the beams in increments of 30, 40, 60 cm, depending on which material is chosen for sheathing. Additional beams are laid under future windows. Lining, boards, OSB are used as the outer skin of the house.

Before starting work, it is necessary to treat all wood with an antiseptic and wait until it is completely absorbed. This is necessary not only to protect against rodents and insects, but also to ensure that the original shape and dimensions of the material are well preserved.

Attention: to ensure the durability of the frame house, do not use metal joints. Wood, in contact with metal, rots. The most reliable fasteners are wooden dowels. For greater rigidity, the frame is braced with braces.

It will help to properly arrange the frame of the future home by watching this video:

Walls

The frame wall consists of the actual frame and insulation. They are performed using the following technology:

1. The outer side of the finished frame is upholstered with a rolled waterproofing material.
2. On top of this layer, a crate is arranged to provide a ventilated gap.
3. Sheathe the walls from the outside with a blockhouse, clapboard or other material.
4. The free space between the posts is filled with insulation and fixed with brackets. At the same time, when they are going to live in the house permanently, they choose polystyrene foam or mineral wool with a minimum thickness of 50 mm. For the dacha option, a thinner insulation is used.
5. A layer of vapor barrier is placed on the inner side of the wall and the crate is stuffed.
6. Next comes the finishing layer. Most often, drywall is used for this purpose.

Tip: it is better when all the details of the house are made of wood of the same species.

Internal partitions

Basically, partitions are mounted from the same beam as the main frame, although sometimes a 100 x 50 mm beam is also used, but only in one-story houses. The structure of the inner walls is simpler than the outer ones.

If we consider a simple scheme, then it includes the following elements:

• frame racks;
• insulation;
• 2-sided multifunctional or vapor barrier membrane;
• finishing.

You can also use ready-made, industrial-scale, sandwich panels, then all the work comes down to their installation and cutting openings.

Window

Building codes state that windows should occupy 18% of the wall area. For a country cottage designed for permanent residence, best option- double glazing.

In places where the project provides for window openings and doors, very carefully saw out vertical racks in the middle. At the top and bottom of the resulting opening, perfectly flat horizontal boards are fixed tightly adjacent to the resulting segments. After the work on the roof is completed, ready-made frames are simply inserted into these places.

Roof

In a frame house, the roof structure is simpler. Given that the largest mechanical load falls on the frame, it must be built in accordance with all requirements. In this case, the roof can take on any shape that requires the installation of rafters of varying degrees of complexity.

Options are selected based on the parameters of the house and its design features. Step by step installation is carried out as follows:

1. Perform a detailed installation scheme of the truss system. The step is calculated based on the size of the rack, determined with the size of the spans, based on the cross-sectional area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe beams. At the same time, the normal step is 40-100 cm, the span is 2.5-5 m.
2. Rafters are mounted, fixing them with roofing nails, plates, corners. The rafters are supported by a rigidly fixed maurlet 10 x 10 cm. Serrated overlays are used to connect the rafter legs.
3. Arrange a crate. Its appearance depends on the choice of roofing material. If it is a metal profile, then a 5 x 5 cm timber is used. It is fixed every 0.5 m. A continuous OSB crate is arranged under the flexible tiles.

Attention: when spanning more than 5 m, a support is installed under the rafters.

Overlapping for an unheated attic, consists of the following layers:

• bearing bar;
• plank flooring;
• draft 9 mm floor from OSB or DSP boards;
• heat and vapor barrier;
• floor base from DSP;
• heat insulator;
• screed with a layer of waterproofing.

The material for the rafters are wooden beams, while the step of the rafters is equal to the step of the frame racks. Basically, for frame houses, pitched or flat roofs are arranged.

Attention: when calculating the step, take into account both the load and the section of the beams, spans, coating material.

As you can see, the installation of a frame house is not very complicated. For the self-construction of such a house, you will have enough information obtained after reading this article, and you will only need to contact professional builders for additional advice.

Construction of a frame house: video

Do-it-yourself frame house: photo

A section of a frame house on the example of the KD-29 project, a diagram and technology for the construction of a frame house are given. Almost all projects have this design. This scheme has established itself as reliable, but simple and easy to assemble. The entire weight of the roof is borne by the central and side non-frontal walls, which stand on the foundation. The second floor is assembled from the floor of the second floor. Visually, you can familiarize yourself with the stages of construction by downloading frame building instructions.

Foundation assembly plans and drawings

A set of working diagrams and units for the project, contains: a complete drawing with the dimensions of the installation sites for anchors, working fittings and clamps, the volume of concrete and the amount of reinforcement. Technology and method of economical assembly of formwork for its subsequent use for frame racks and strapping. With a pile foundation, the project also includes a description and a pile field with all dimensions of the installation of piles d108mm and tying with a channel for guaranteed reliability of the piles. If desired, in place it is possible to tie the piles with a beam or a board on an edge along the heads.

Frame house wall

A set of working diagrams and components for the project, includes: dimensions before the start of the posts on both sides in cm, including verification dimensions between the posts, installation locations for braces, dimensions of the window / door opening and its reinforcement, sequence plans and installation locations for OSB sheets (OSB) outside, also all plans, where necessary, contain a picking list, comments and technology for connecting racks in the corners, according to the warm corner technology, and a diagram of the junction of internal walls. Please note that we specifically abandoned the Gost design of the drawings in order to remove unnecessary headers and captions, and make the drawings full page. Also, they are made in color and in centimeters, for the convenience of work during construction.

Front of a frame house

A set of working diagrams and components for the project, includes: dimensions before the start of the posts in cm and roof battens, the height of the posts, including the verification dimensions between them, window installation locations, window dimensions and its reinforcement, sequence plans and installation locations for OSB sheets (OSB) outside, also, all plans contain comments and technology for laying out the Ondulin fastening, lathing, overhangs and steam-wind-protection devices (roofing cake).

Comparison: Conventional drawing and our drawings

For the convenience and speed of work, we did not, as everyone else does, make a separate picking list for the whole house, since it is extremely inconvenient to work on it. Imagine how to assemble a house, if in order to assemble a partition only a meter or two long, you have to look for its completeness in a book of almost a hundred! sheets. So that you don’t have such problems, we, all the necessary materials and their exact dimensions, indicated directly on the page where the object that you will collect at the moment is drawn, you don’t have to spend a lot of time to find and calculate what you you need, everything is indicated on the diagram - simple and convenient. In any case, there is an additional estimate for the project.

Knots: Schemes of fastening and marking

Each of our projects comes not only with drawings and diagrams, descriptions and explanations, but of course also nodes, this greatly facilitates and speeds up the process of proper construction. Below, the first page of nodes and layout scheme from the cd-1 project. Since this is a project of a small house, the nodes fit on two pages. First, these are the main nodes and the wall assembly scheme with an explanation of the markup. The second page in the project is the nodes of the internal partitions, the scheme and method of sawing the jibs, the scheme and the method of quick marking. And also, the second page shows the method and method of insulating the ceiling between floors, the floor of the first floor, etc.

Network engineering

A set of working diagrams and nodes for the project, contains: a laying diagram and the number of electrical terminal devices (socket, switches, circuit breakers, etc., etc.), a schematic diagram and an option for installing plumbing for the first / second floor, as well as a variant of a drainage and ventilation device with natural impulse with a description of the minimum desired device in accordance with the rules and regulations for single-family houses.

You can read more about knots using KarkasDom technology in the article All nodes of the frame house.

All our projects have many advantages:

1. Projects are designed to the size of materials from the store, so that you have to cut as little as possible and there are no scraps left.

2. Also, still at the stage draft design OSB boards were selected, taking into account the most popular sizes, which are most often in the base building warehouse.

3. The roof is the simplest in execution - gable. And this means that you do not have to cut Ondulin or metal tiles to form valleys. There are no additional roofing elements that will increase the cost of the roof, and also, there are no potentially dangerous places that could leak.

4. All projects are made according to zoning: Zone 2, St. Petersburg and Leningrad Region, which is suitable for their construction in terms of snow and wind load in most of Russia.

5. Usually a rectangular house. It is the most energy efficient and comfortable form of the house.

6. All houses are quite simple in construction, due to the absence of unnecessary protrusions of the walls.

7. All dimensions are in centimeters and have the original design of drawings and diagrams.

8. In the projects of houses there is not a single expensive glued or I-beam.

9. Dimensions of the house are selected for maximum savings in building materials.

10. Risers are usually assembled in one place with ventilation.

11. Comfortable stairs.

Since we cannot place all the drawings and plans on one page, then by going to the section, Our offer we can offer you free estimates for calculating how much a house will cost you at the prices of your region, all plans, drawings and technologies with detailed description what and how is done and why. A total of more than 100 pages of color drawings, descriptions and comments for convenience, speed and quality of work.

The construction of wooden frame houses has gained popularity in our area relatively recently, only in recent decades. And such a rapid growth in the number of supporters of such buildings is due to the very rapid process of their construction and the possibility of using environmentally friendly materials.

The first frame buildings appeared during the development of the territories of America and Canada, then they became widespread in European countries. This type of building is good not only because the house rises quickly, but also because it requires much less cost and physical effort. In addition, if the facade of the house is finished with one of the modern materials that imitate brick, wood or stone, then its walls cannot be distinguished from the main ones.

Interestingly, building with your own hands is quite possible even alone. Of course, the process will take much longer, but you won’t have to pay for the work of the whole team. If you decide to carry out the construction yourself and complete during the warm and dry summer period, then you still need to start in early spring. If the house is not completely finished until late autumn, you need to try to bring the construction site at least to the truss structure and to the flooring of the roofing material, since the building cannot be allowed to stand uncovered until next spring.

What is a frame structure?

Generally speaking, the frame structure of the house consists of a lower and upper trim, which fastens vertically installed racks that form the frame of external and internal walls. The base for the floors and the attic floor consists of load-bearing beams made of timber. The rafter system is also built from beams, and the roofing is laid on it. It is desirable that it does not differ in too large a mass.

A heater is installed and laid between the elements of the frame. Its thickness is chosen depending on the region and climatic conditions. In any case, the thickness of the frame racks must correspond to this value. Most often, one of the varieties of mineral wool, ecowool, expanded polystyrene or polyurethane foam is chosen as thermal insulation materials. Expanded clay is also used to insulate floors and attic floors.

How to insulate a frame house?

When choosing, it is necessary to take into account not only the thermal insulation qualities of the material, but also a number of other factors - hygroscopicity, chemical and biological resistance, density, environmental friendliness, etc. And for a frame house, the combustibility of the material and its stability are of great importance. .

On the pages of our portal there are a lot of materials that tell in detail.

After installing the insulation, the structure is sheathed with moisture-resistant materials - it can be OSB board, moisture-resistant plywood or cement-bonded particle board (DSP).

Compared to solid wood, block or brick buildings, the frame structure is light and does not require a massive foundation. A columnar or pile-screw base is suitable for it, and if it is planned to arrange basements in the house, then in this case it is best to choose a strip foundation. The frame structure must be raised high enough above the ground, so the basement must have a height of at least 500 mm. This is necessary so that the moisture from soil, from rain water or snowdrifts affected the wooden elements of the frame house as little as possible.

Foundation for frame structure

Any construction starts with a foundation, and, as stated above, you can choose any of its types (except, perhaps, a monolithic "floating" plate - there is no need for it).

Marking of future construction and earthworks

Before proceeding with digging trenches under the foundation or screwing in piles, it is necessary to carefully mark the area. This work should not be considered secondary, since the straightness of future walls, and the total amount of work, will depend on it. So as not have to make excessive efforts to remake the foundation if its exact coordinates and dimensions are initially determined.

• Marking is carried out using a tape measure, a square, and other simple geodetic instruments. Usually it consists in installing wooden stakes with stretched cords, which visually show the size of the building and its location on the ground.

On this kind of "drawing" all the bearing walls of the building are determined in the event that a tape type of foundation is chosen. If you plan a columnar version or a pile-screw, then you need to mark the exact location of each of the pillars (supports).

• Trenches can be dug manually or, if you need to carry out this process quickly, use special construction equipment, with which the whole operation will take place in one day.
• For digging holes for a columnar foundation, in addition to shovels, they use an ordinary hand drill or a motor drill, which will allow you to drill holes of the desired diameter to the required depth much faster.

These methods are the most affordable, since if you invite large-sized equipment, then for it it is necessary, firstly, to have additional space on the site and free access to the place of work, and secondly, the cost of such drilling will cost many times more.

• At the stage of digging a pit, a sewer runoff is carried out. For laying pipes, trenches are dug below the level of soil freezing in a given region. Then pipes are laid to the place inside the pit, where, according to the plan, a bathroom or a ventilated sewer riser should be located.

If a columnar foundation is being arranged, then the pipe section passing from the ground level to the exit in the house must be carefully insulated. It is recommended to build brick walls around it, and fill the space between the pipe and them with insulation.

Of course, this work can be carried out after construction is completed, but in this case it will be inconvenient to do it - you will have to cut holes in the floor or cut through the foundation wall.

Foundation construction

In order to specifically dwell on one of the types of foundation, you need to understand what they are.

Strip foundation

This type of foundation is a concrete monolithic strip, which has a reinforcing lattice in its design. The height of the basement part can be different, but if there is a basement in the construction plan of the house, then the foundation walls are raised by 600 ÷ 800 mm, in which case they will require insulation. When preparing the formwork, one should not forget about the ventilation holes that will not allow moisture to accumulate under the structure.

If you immediately provide for measures to combat rodents, of which there are always a lot outside the city, then it is recommended to make a backfill of fine-grained expanded clay around the foundation and inside it.

Column Foundation

1 - foundation pillar;

2 - strapping beams;

3 - floor beams;

4 - logs of the subfloor.

A columnar foundation is a set of concrete, brick or combined pillars arranged in the correct order, according to the markup. The supports are deepened depending on the types and location of the soil layers in the area and on the massiveness of the future structure.

Choosing a columnar foundation?

For a frame house on stable ground - a very good solution. All installation details can be found in a special article.

Pile screw foundation

The screw foundation consists of metal piles screwed to the required depth at the points, according to the markings made in accordance with the project. The upper part of the piles, protruding above the ground, is tied with a metal grillage or metal lintels, and then with a powerful bar. This will become the basis for the lower strapping of the frame structure itself.

The pile-screw design is good in that the supports can be screwed in so that they protrude to different heights. This allows you to install the house not only on a flat area, but also on a rugged site, with a height difference - then it will not be difficult to bring the piles to one horizontal level. to one height.

You won’t be able to screw the screw piles on your own - you will either have to invite several assistants, or use the services of a team of craftsmen “armed” with special equipment.

Prices for cement and mixture bases

Cement and mixture bases

Frame erection

Whatever foundation is chosen, it must be on top waterproof- the platform (grillage, mounting plates or the upper edge of the posts or tape), on which the lower strapping beam will be installed, is covered with roofing material, which will create a moisture-proof gasket.

The roofing material spreads in several layers, preferably in a “hot” way on the tar mastic, and it must be 150 ÷ ​​200 mm more than the width of the foundation, since it must protrude from both sides.

Bottom trim

The strapping is made of a bar with a size of 150 × 150 or 200 × 150 mm. At the corners, the elements are connected “in half a tree”, the bars are securely twisted together and fixed on the supports (tape) of the foundation with the help of studs or anchor fasteners, depending on what type of base is chosen and what material it is built from.

Additionally, the strapping beams are fastened together with corners or other metal elements, for example, plates. The same parts can be used to attach the strapping to the foundation.

At the end of these works, a rigid strapping belt should be obtained that can withstand the main structure of the frame. In the case when the beam used does not have the proper size in cross section, two, and sometimes three parts are stacked one on top of the other.

And, the top beam of the strapping is mounted on the bottom beam so that the possible butt joints, if any, do not fall one above the other.

If the wooden strapping is mounted on a strip foundation, then it may not be too thick, but it is very important that its width matches the width of the concrete base.

Basement beams and flooring

Basement beams

The strength qualities of the frame to the maximum extent depend on the quality and cross-section of the strapping beams and floor beams. It is clear that they are trying to select first-class material. But the cross section depends on the length of the spans, and on the step of the location of the parts. To correctly determine the size, you can use the following table:

Cross-section table of beams of floor beams for a frame building:

• The next step is to fix the basement beams. They, as a rule, have the same cross-sectional size as the strapping bars. The connection of the floor beams with the strapping belt is carried out “in half a tree”, for which gashes are made in both elements.

The beams must give the structure of the future floor rigidity and reliability. Therefore, if the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe building is large enough, then often the basement beams are laid on the strapping belt for each of the rooms separately.

• After the installation of the basement beams is completed, flooring will be required for further work. And here, many masters themselves prefer and advise beginners to immediately arrange floors, both rough and “white” (of course, not counting the finishing decorative coating). However, with this option of work, it is necessary to provide that the entire floor area will need to be covered daily with a solid sheet of dense polyethylene film until the entire structure is protected from precipitation by the roof and walls.
• All parts of the lower belt are covered with antiseptic and water-repellent impregnation - this measure will extend the life of the building.

• At the same stage, it is necessary to raise the sewer pipe above the floor surface by 100 ÷ 150 mm. To do this, in each layer of the floor covering, it is necessary to make holes through which the sewer pipe will be passed.

subfloor flooring

• To lay the subfloor, cranial bars are screwed onto the lower parts of the floor beams, on which boards or plywood sheets will be fixed.
• Next is the laying and fixing of the boards. For this, it is not at all necessary to purchase first-class material, but it must be well dried. It is recommended to install the boards close to each other - this will add insulation to the floor, since the structure will be less blown through.

Installation of the insulating "pie" of the floor

• At the next stage, the subfloor and floor beams are covered with a waterproofing membrane, which is used as dense polyethylene. It is usually attached with staples.
• Further, mats are laid on the waterproofing or expanded clay is poured, which is no less effective than other materials. If it is planned to make several layers of insulation, then the first of them is recommended to use fine-grained expanded clay.

• A layer of vapor barrier film is laid on top of the insulation, and then either a floorboard or sheet material is fixed to the beams. For this, plywood or OSB is often used.

Recently, instead of plywood, cement-bonded particle boards are often used, which can be used not only for flooring, but also for walls and ceilings. The material has good technical and operational characteristics, is not inferior, but in some ways even surpasses its “competitors”.

The table below shows comparative estimates indicators of some sheet materials that They will give you a rough idea of ​​​​them and help you make a choice.

Sheets of material covering the floor are screwed with self-tapping screws to the floor beams. If the insulation is provided in two layers, then logs are nailed on top of the beams, between which the second layer of insulation is laid. Then everything is the same - a vapor barrier is laid, and plywood or another coating is already fixed on the logs.

It should be noted that instead of the last vapor barrier layer, roofing material sheets are often overlapped by 150 ÷ ​​200 mm, which are fastened together with mastic in a “hot” way.

The erection of the wall frame, the upper trim

After you have finished with the lower belt, you can proceed to the construction of the frame of the walls. First of all, it is necessary to install the corner posts, which usually have a larger cross section than the intermediate ones.

• Racks must be fixed according to pre-made markings, at a distance of 600 mm from each other - this is the standard width of insulation mats, but if necessary, they can be placed with a different step, for example, 400 mm. You can fix the intermediate racks, as well as the corner ones, in different ways:
• Racks can first be fixed using metal corners, and then jumpers can be installed between them, which will create structural rigidity.

• Another option is to install the racks on the strapping belt while the floor is already installed, or before it is installed.

- If fastening is carried out after the floor is laid, then grooves are cut near the floor beams. Racks are installed in them and fixed to the beam and strapping with self-tapping screws.

- In the event that the racks are attached before the installation of the floor, then this can be done with the help of an additional part - a piece of timber, which is screwed with self-tapping screws to inside racks and strapping beams.

- The third option is the installation of racks with diagonal supports (slopes), which are installed on both sides and screwed with screws or nailed.

- The fourth way of fastening the racks can be complete or incomplete cutting of the rack into a strapping or into an additional reinforcing bar nailed perpendicular to the floor beams.

• When installing racks, you can not forget about window and door openings. They are designated by transverse bars, which, for rigidity, are supported from above and below by additional reinforcing racks. Spacer bars will give the structure additional rigidity.

• Each of the racks with the greatest care is aligned vertically in two planes using a building level. Then they are all fastened together with temporary jumper rails that will fix them in the correct position.

• When the racks are rigid enough, they must be combined with an upper trim, which is nailed to the ends of the racks, and then additionally fixed with corners or spacer slopes, fixed diagonally.

• The top rail beams must be the same width as the uprights. Special attention is paid to their reliable fastening, since they will become the basis for the beams of the attic floor and, therefore, the entire truss system as a whole.
• In order for the structure of the wall frame to be strong, after installing the top trim, it is recommended to immediately sheathe the outside with plywood or other selected sheet material. Sheets are mounted on self-tapping screws to vertical racks.

Prices for various types of timber

Video - The worst mistakes in the construction of a frame house

Attic beams and roof structure

After the strength and stability of the wall frame is no longer a concern, it is possible to install attic floor beams.

• They are fixed exactly above the racks of the wall frame. If boards are prepared as a material for this, then they are installed on the end, having previously made cuts in them for 1/3 of the width of the board, and the depth of the cut should be equal to the width of the beam or top trim board.

Fastening is carried out using a metal corner, which is screwed to the strapping on one side, and on the beam with the other. Fasteners are installed on both sides of the beam.

• Next, you can proceed to the installation of the truss system. True, it is advisable to immediately install at least a temporary flooring on the beams of the attic floor, along which it will be possible to move in the process of work.

Prices for different types of tiles

Roof tiles

Video - 11 important rules for the rigidity of a frame house

Insulation and finishing works

After to to the roof over the house is erected, it is necessary to install external windows and doors. This process is carried out before insulation work in order to be able to simultaneously close all the cracks and gaps that may be formed during the installation of window and door blocks. After that, you can proceed to the insulation of walls, attic floors and roofs.

Walls can be insulated both inside and outside. For this, thermal insulation materials are used, which have already been mentioned in our publication.

• In the event that the walls are sheathed on the outside with plywood, then it is installed between the racks from the inside, which then must be closed from above with a vapor barrier film.

• For additional insulation, thermal insulation materials are also mounted on the outside of the walls. To do this, a crate is screwed to them, between the bars of which the selected insulation is laid or applied.

A windproof, vapor barrier film is fixed on top of the insulation.

• Insulation of the attic floor is carried out in approximately the same way as the basement:

- cranial bars are screwed onto the floor beams;

- a draft floor is laid on them;

- the floor is covered with waterproofing;

- then comes the insulation material (expanded clay, mineral wool, sawdust, ecowool, expanded polystyrene, etc.);

- the insulation is covered with waterproofing from above;

- boards or plywood of the "white" floor of the attic are mounted on top of it.

• It is also better to insulate the roof slopes, since most of the heat leaves through the ceilings and the roof. To do this, a heater is laid between the rafters, which is closed with a vapor barrier from the side of the attic, and then all layers are sheathed with clapboard, plywood, cement-shaving sheets or moisture-resistant drywall.

Sheathing can be fixed to the rafters or to an additionally screwed horizontal crate.

• Having finished the insulation work, you can proceed to the outer skin of the house with decorative material. It can be chosen for every taste - it can be vinyl or metal siding, wooden lining, "block house" or other modern materials.

Sheathing with siding with insulation - the solution to several problems at the same time!

The facade of the building acquires reliable thermal insulation, protection from weather phenomena, and the house itself - completeness, accuracy and individuality.

How - read in a special publication of our portal.

• The interior lining can also be made in different ways:

- drywall, making perfectly smooth walls for painting or wallpapering;

- wooden clapboard, which makes the house cozy and brings natural freshness to it;

- plywood, which can also be prepared for painting or wallpaper.

At the end of the finishing work, around windows and doors are mounted decorative panels- slopes and platbands.

If a veranda or terrace was not planned in the project, then they can be attached after all work is completed, but it is better, of course, to build together with the walls.

Electricity can be mounted both inside the walls, even at the stage of installing the frame, and after the completion of the sheathing with decorative material. The latter method of installation has been used more and more recently, as it is safer and allows, if necessary, to carry out repairs without opening the decorative finish. However, modern technology allows you to use other options.

Electrical wiring in wooden house- Special attention!

Say what you like, but the fire hazard of a wooden house is always higher than a stone one. No "liberties" in the installation of electricians are simply unacceptable!

How to mount it correctly is described in detail in a special article of the portal.

If a decision is made to start building a frame house, you need to remember that this will require a lot of free time, although incomparably less than with other buildings. The work will certainly go more fun and faster if there is a reliable and knowledgeable assistant nearby, and preferably several. In this scenario, it is quite possible to build a house in one summer season.

The main thing is to act in accordance with the technological instructions during the construction process when performing all types of work, to perform them accurately, smoothly and consistently.

And in conclusion, to complete the overall picture - a video lecture on the main advantages and disadvantages of frame houses.

Prices for thermal insulation materials

Thermal insulation materials

Video: frame house - "pros" and "cons"