How to assemble a caesar bathroom. Do-it-yourself installation and fastening of the bath to the wall. Decorative panel installation

When carrying out repairs in the bathroom and self-replacing plumbing, such a problem as the correct installation of the font necessarily arises, since aspects such as comfort during adoption depend on how well this operation is performed. water procedures and service life of the entire structure. The correct installation of an acrylic bathtub with your own hands consists in the exact sequence of actions that include the assembly of the structure itself, the preparation of the installation site, and the installation itself. In this article, we will look at options for how to properly install an acrylic bath.

One of the main positive qualities of such structures, which favorably distinguishes them from the background of outdated metal models, is their low weight, this quality makes it possible to independently carry out the installation acrylic bathtubs without resorting to the help of professionals. Installation of an acrylic bathtub is a rather complicated process, since this material is very sensitive to mechanical damage from sharp or heavy objects. It is also not worth delaying the installation for a long time due to the fact that a bathtub made of this material has one unpleasant property during improper or long-term storage, it can change its original shape.

Preparatory work and installation options for an acrylic bath

Before you install an acrylic bath with your own hands, you need to prepare the place and the bath itself for installation, remove all unnecessary items from the bathroom, dismantle old equipment, prepare the necessary tools and materials for installation work. You will need:

• bath;
• legs or frame on which the bowl will be attached;
• a hammer;
• Bulgarian;
• perforator;
• assembly sealant;
• level;
• wrench;
• insulating tape;
• mounting tape (construction tape);
• corrugated pipe;
• spare parts for attaching an acrylic bath to a wall or floor.

Before you install a new acrylic bathroom, you need to do some preparatory work:

• first turn off the water supply to the central tap;
• then dismantle the old bath;
• then crack or cut out the old drain;
• clean the sewer hole;
• insert a new corrugated pipe into the sewer socket;
• coat with sealant the joint of the corrugation and the sewer hole;
• level the floor for an acrylic bath.

Now you can proceed directly to the installation of new plumbing.

Installing a new acrylic bathtub is carried out using one of the following methods:

• on a metal frame;
• on support legs;
• on brick supports;
• on a brick podium;
• combined mounting method.

Rules and regulations for the installation of acrylic sanitary ware allow any of the above methods to attach the bathtub to the wall or floor, based on its type and model. So, if there is a metal frame in the kit, then it is better to install the font on it, while using the attached instructions. And if special legs are sold along with the bathtub, then an acrylic bathtub must be installed on the legs, since such a support is designed specifically for this model, taking into account the areas of greatest stress.

Let's take a closer look at how to fix an acrylic bathtub in each of the 5 listed methods.

Installing an acrylic bathtub on support legs

This is the fastest and easiest installation method that does not require a set of tools and special skills. The assembly of the bathtub with legs is easy if you use the instructions that are attached to the product. If, according to the instructions or during installation work, it becomes necessary to drill the font, then this should be done with a wood drill at slow speeds. Mounting on the support legs consists of screwing the legs to the bowl and adjusting them in place.

1. Screwing legs. On the lower part of the body of the bath there are special seats marked with stickers or corresponding symbols. To facilitate self-assembly of an acrylic bathtub, some manufacturers supply products with pre-drilled holes. And if they are not, then you need to make these holes yourself. Then the legs are screwed into these holes, otherwise the load will not be distributed evenly and the bath will quickly fail.
2. Support adjustment. Almost all bathtub legs are designed with the ability to adjust the height of the support in order to attach the bowl at the desired slope using a level. First, the bath is installed against the wall, and then the legs are twisted, setting the desired height. After that, they proceed to horizontal alignment, when the level is set on the side of the bath in a horizontal position. If necessary, the legs are twisted up or down with a wrench.

When the optimal performance is set, the legs are fixed with nuts in the desired position. Sometimes, for greater reliability, the bathtub is screwed to the wall with special plastic or metal hooks, which are pre-mounted strictly horizontally around the entire perimeter of the bathtub into the wall at the same distance from each other. The hooks are screwed up to the wall cladding.

Mounting on a metal frame

The most reliable way, relatively simple, the main thing is to clearly follow the assembly instructions for the product. In this case, the acrylic bathtub is installed as follows:

1. First of all, it is necessary to assemble the frame, according to the instructions, using the long self-tapping screws that are included in the kit.
2. The product is turned over on its side or upside down, so that it is convenient to fix the frame.
3. Then the frame is installed on the acrylic bath in the center of the bottom, and the legs are attached to the support.
4. Two supports are fixed to the frame in the central part, two more along the wall, and three supports along the outer edge of the font.
5. The legs are then adjusted to the same height so that the height of the tub does not exceed 65 cm for safety and ease of use.
6. After that, the product is turned over, checked with a building level, whether the bath is level.
7. Then the siphon and overflow are connected.
8. If necessary, the font is attached to the wall with hooks or metal corners.
9. Finally, a decorative screen is installed.

An installation option is also possible, when the frame with legs is mounted immediately on the floor, and then a bath is mounted on top of the fixed frame. Most often, the installed frame does not require additional fasteners, but if it does not seem reliable to you, then you can strengthen it with additional fastening hooks, which were mentioned above.

How to install a bathtub on brick supports?

In the event that a metal frame is not available, the installation of an acrylic bath is done on a brick podium. This method is not economical, despite the fact that the construction is particularly durable, due to the fact that it requires a huge amount of bricks. Moreover, an excessive load is created on the floors, due to the rather large weight of the finished podium. To reduce the cost of construction, as well as to reduce the load on the floor, it is recommended to install an acrylic bath on brick columns. To create such a design, you can get by with a small amount of mortar and 12 bricks.

Installation is carried out in the following sequence:

1. Without removing the protective film, the bath is brought into the room and installed at the place of future installation, after which the location of the columns is marked.
2. According to the length of the bath, they mark where 2-3 columns will be located, where one is located in the middle of the bottom, and the other two are at the edges of the bend of the bath.
3. After they take out the bath, they start laying out columns 17-19 cm long so that the height of the bath above the floor level is not more than 60-65 cm.
4. The masonry is allowed to dry for 12-24 hours, after which a siphon is connected to the bath and pushed tightly against the wall, it is installed on the previously made posts.
5. Using silicone sealant, fill the gap between the posts and the bottom of the tank.
6. With the help of metal hooks and corners, the edges of the bath are attached to the wall.

Experienced experts recommend that, prior to installation, apply mounting foam to the lower surface of the acrylic bath, this little trick will reduce the thermal conductivity and resonant ability of the material. Also, the use of mounting foam during installation reduces the likelihood of damage to the bottom of the acrylic bathtub by brick supports.

Mounting method on a brick podium

In the event that there are no metal supports for a certain model, the installation is done on a brick podium. According to experts, this method is in no way inferior in terms of reliability to the previous version, the only thing it differs in is that this method takes more time, while it is somewhat “dirtier” than the previous version. Installation of an acrylic bathtub on the podium is done using a saw, mounting foam, bricks, mortar and moisture-resistant plywood.

Installation is done following the following technology:

1. The bath is temporarily placed in place, while the protective film should not be removed from it, after which the place where the drain hole will be located is marked. This operation is needed in order to leave a gap in the podium to connect the drain.
2. Under the entire supporting part, with the help of a mortar, brickwork is made to such a height that the sides would be at a height of 60 cm relative to the floor level. You also need to consider that there will still be 2-3 cm of mounting foam between the masonry and the bathroom.
3. Around the brick podium, a frame cut from moisture-resistant plywood is assembled. In this case, it should be taken into account that the height of the plywood should be higher than the podium by the thickness of the foam layer.
4. We evenly fill the brick podium with one layer of mounting foam, after which this layer is covered with a sheet of moisture-resistant plywood of the appropriate size.
5. The bathtub is turned over, mounted on a podium, after which, using the building level, they check how evenly the bathtub is placed.
6. The bath is filled halfway, closing the drain, this is done to evenly solidify the foam. The period of foam drying is 12-24 hours.
7. The bath is connected to a drain with an overflow, mounted on a podium and attached to 3 walls with hooks and a metal corner.

Worth considering! Nowadays, acrylic baths have a sloping bottom, which accelerates the outflow of water into the drain, so during installation it is not necessary to install the bath on a slope.

The most famous method of attaching acrylic baths is the combined method, when the installation is carried out on a metal frame made of aluminum profiles, and ordinary bricks are used to prevent the bottom from bending or deforming. In order to build such a structure, you will need:

• bricks that will support the bottom of the font;
• for the manufacture of the supporting structure, a metal or aluminum profile is required;
• in order to fix the brickwork, cement mortar is required;
• to seal the seams, it is recommended to use a sealant;
• self-tapping screws will help to assemble the frame;
• for stirring the cement mortar, use a special container and a trowel.

Worth remembering! When working with sharp and heavy objects, care should be taken, as an accidentally dropped tool can easily make a hole in the bathroom, thereby damaging the product. It is better to take precautions in advance by covering the font with thick paper or thick film.

In order to properly install an acrylic bathtub on the wall, it is necessary to note what its future height will be, starting from which we will form the height of the brickwork. We measure from the floor to the indicated line, from the results obtained we subtract the height of the bath itself, and what happened will be the thickness of the brick lining on which the bath will be mounted.

It is recommended to start installing an acrylic bathtub against the wall by mounting a metal profile, which will subsequently serve as a support for the bathtub. Then, along the lower level of the edge of the edge of the bathtub, you need to install a metal profile with dowels around the entire perimeter, where the bathtub will come into contact with the wall. It is on him that the sides of the bath will rest. Next, before installing the acrylic bath, we make a brick pillow along the bottom of the bath of the required height.

Need to know! Before fixing acrylic bathtubs in this way, everything must be calculated so that during installation it exactly lies with its sides on the previously installed profile, and the bottom slightly touches the brickwork along it. Attachment to the wall in this situation is done using a sealant, which is applied to the profile, and at the same time is a sealant preventing water from flowing.

Thus, the manufacture of the frame can be considered complete, but it is possible to create a front protective screen from the same metal profile. This screen will make it possible to hide the inside and be able to provide additional protection for the outer side, as well as make it possible to make a special hatch for the repair and maintenance of the siphon. You have learned how to properly install an acrylic bath on a do-it-yourself frame.

The bathroom bowl is the main item of the toilet room. It is necessary to choose it, carefully considering the details of the design of the rest of the space of the room. The comfort during hygiene procedures depends on how well the bath is chosen. The installation process requires no less attention, because it affects the quality and duration of future operation.

There are several options on the market:

Can I install the bath myself?

Installing a bathtub with your own hands is quite a feasible task, but it will take time, care and the help of at least one person, especially when installing a heavy cast-iron model.

Before proceeding to self installation, read the instructions for installing the bowl itself and connecting the water line and sewerage to it.

The technology for installing a corner bath and a straight-shaped bowl is no different. The main criterion is the material and dimensions of the bathroom.

Important! For a small area room, corner design - great option, which will rationally delimit the entire space.

Installation sequence

We will divide the entire course of work into several successive stages:

1. Preparatory.
2. Skidding and fastening of the bowl.
3. Connecting the drain to the sewer.
4. Grounding.
5. Processing joints and gaps.
6. Installation of a screen under the bath.
7. Facing.

Preparatory work

This process is very important for correct installation bathroom.

First take care of the availability of all the tools necessary in the process of installing the bowl itself and attaching it to the engineering systems. Refer to the following list:

In addition to preparing the tools, do the following:

Skidding and fixing the bowl

Installing a cast iron bath

Not only fixing the bathroom, but also its skidding has its own technology:

Installing an acrylic bathtub on a factory frame

The technology for mounting a plastic bowl is different from cast iron. To install it, you definitely need a frame, on which all the burden during operation will fall.

When buying, select additional equipment for installation:

• Details for fixing the bath bowl to the wall
• Fasteners for mounting the panel to the bath
• Set for connecting the drain to the sewer
• Decorative panels
• Frame.

In this case, the entire installation process will be fairly quick and easy.

Consider carefully the scheme for installing the bath and assembling the frame, attached to the instructions.

Instructions for installing a bathtub with a finished frame:

Installing a plastic bath on a do-it-yourself frame

The technology of self-creation of the frame will require more time, effort and consumables. It is used in the absence of factory parts, as well as if the specified drain height does not match the height of the bowl.

Important! Installation of a steel bath follows the same principle.

Prepare in advance:

• wooden blocks
• drying oil or antiseptic solution for wood
• sheets of waterproof plywood, at least 15 mm thick
• self-tapping screws for wood and concrete
• adhesive mixture
• fastening corners.

Do the work, adhering to the following scheme:

Plumbing connection

grounding

This process is mandatory when installing a steel and cast iron bath.

It is better to entrust grounding to a specialist, but if you decide to do all the work yourself, then consider the nuances of the technology:

Seal the seams when installing the bathroom

All seams, joints of the drain system and gaps at the points of contact of the bowl and walls at the end of all installation work, carefully seal. For gaps, use cement mixture, if the joints with the sides of the bathroom are insignificant, or silicone sealant, which is also great for sealing the joints of the drain system.

In the case when the gaps between the wall and the sides of the bowl are more than 5 cm:

Installing a screen under the bath

In order to give an attractive and finished look to the design of the bathroom, installing a screen is an excellent solution. The simplest is the installation of a ready-made kit.

But it is quite possible to cut the parts yourself, only by choosing the material to your liking and a more suitable scheme.

The most popular options for screen design:

When creating it, adhere to the following recommendations:

1. Eliminate the bearing load on the screen.
2. Fill the opening neatly and tightly.
3. Separate the floor under the bathtub from the rest of the room floor to prevent water from leaking in.
4. Leave access to the drain system and other plumbing systems passing under the bath by installing a small door.
5. Carefully measure all the details, observing the accuracy of the parameters
6. Fasten to a pre-created frame or special panels.
7. When making a screen made of chipboard, plywood or plastic, cut a 2 * 5 cm or 2 * 10 cm ventilation hole on the side opposite the service hole.

Facing

Wall cladding is the final stage in the decoration of the bathroom. Do it only after securely fixing the bath and other plumbing items. Regardless of the chosen facing material, be sure to keep free access to pipes and joints.

Bathroom renovation

In order to repair a bathtub that has worn out or lost its attractiveness and smoothness of the surface, it is not necessary to change the bowl to a new one. A great alternative would be *installing liners in the bathtub*.

Most often they are made of acrylic, which makes the process less time consuming due to the lightness of the material.

Installing an acrylic liner in the bath will allow you to quickly return it to its proper appearance without undue effort.

Perform all work in the following sequence:

1. Measure the bathtub and select a model of the appropriate parameters.
   
2. Sand the entire surface of the old bowl with fine-grained sandpaper.
   
   

   Important! The degree of adhesion between the surface of the old tub and the new liner depends on how carefully this process is carried out.

3. Wash the tub, removing all debris and dust.
4. Wait for the surface to dry.
5. Remove the drain siphon.
6. Install the liner inside the tub.
7. Mark with a marker an extra protrusion along the side of the bowl and the places of the drain and overflow holes.
   

   Important! Measure the drain and overflow circle, for example, using a removed siphon.

8. Cut off all excess clearly along the lines.
   
9. Apply sealant to the inside of the bath along the sides and foam over the rest of the area.
   
   
10. Insert insert.
    
11. Press firmly on all sides.
12. On the sides for the most tight grip, press with clamps, placing wooden bars under them.
13. Install the siphon immediately.
14. Close the drain hole with a stopper.
15. Pour water into the tub just below the overflow hole.
    
    

    Important! Water will become a necessary load, and over the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe bowl, without empty spaces.

16. Leave in this position for a day.
17. Drain the water and start using the bathroom as usual.
18. Watch a video on how to install a bath liner.

Conclusion

As you have already seen, the entire installation process is not particularly difficult. The main thing is to be consistent, do all the work carefully and carefully. The result of proper bathroom installation is convenience and comfort during water procedures for many years.

Acrylic bathtubs are made from different types of plastics. The inner part is made of transparent plastic material - acrylic. It contains special additives that provide a bath:

1. hygienic properties. Thanks to the smooth surface, a person experiences a comfortable feeling, and the inside of the bath is practically not contaminated, which prevents the growth of harmful bacteria.
2. Maintainability. Small chips or shallow scratches can be repaired.
3. Plastic. Under the action of high temperatures, the product is given various forms.
4. Variety of colors. To obtain the required coloring, a special powder is introduced into acrylic before the polymerization stage.
5. Fade resistant. Over time, the sanitary ware does not lose its original color.

Acrylic bathtubs are in demand because of their wide functionality and low weight. Like any material, acrylic has its drawbacks, which are expressed in:

1. Sensitivity to abrasive and alcohol-containing products. To wash the product, it is necessary to use special detergents to avoid damaging the thin acrylic film.
2. Poor high temperature resistance. Under the action of hot water, the plastic softens and can be deformed.
3. High price. Baths with the same capacity, made of iron or cast iron, are significantly inferior to the acrylic counterpart.
4. mechanical brittleness. The product may be damaged if a heavy object is dropped or if it is not sufficiently reinforced.

In order to minimize the above disadvantages of acrylic plumbing, you need to use special detergents, first of all, pour cold water, and then dilute it with hot water and securely strengthen the structure in the bathroom. The article will consider in detail the way to securely fix the bath to the place of its installation.

The figure schematically shows the location of the frame and sole for the bottom, made of bricks.

Installing a corner acrylic bath on a frame

For the capital strengthening of the acrylic bath, installing the screen and sealing the seams, you will need the following tool and material:

• perforator with a drill of 8, 10 mm;
• drill with a drill with a diameter of 6, 8, 14 mm (14 mm can be made from a pen drill);
• crosshead screwdriver;
• stationery knife;
• tape measure and pencil;
• level;
• open-end wrenches 8 - 13 mm (the size depends on the hardware used);
• saw or electric jigsaw;
• brush for applying drying oil;
• gun for foam and silicone;
• timber with a section of 30 by 30 mm;
• drying oil, silicone and polyurethane foam;
• bolts and connecting nuts with a diameter of 10 mm:
• self-tapping screws with suitable dowels and logs of 6 - 8 mm;
• bricks;
• metal corners with sides of 50 mm and a length of 60 mm in the amount of two pieces;
• external plastic corner for tiles.

Before installing the bath, all finishing work in the room must be completed and a hot and cold water distribution point and a sewer outlet must be installed.

It is advisable not to remove the transport film from the bath until the end of work. So that the timber does not rot, it must be covered with drying oil.

Consider, for example, the installation of an acrylic corner bathtub 800 mm wide and 1600 mm long manufactured by Kolo (Poland) on the frame

An installation kit is attached to the sanitary ware: square-section support pipes, legs, metal grips, hardware. But the set is not enough for high-quality fastening of the bath. It is necessary to additionally make a rigid frame. Consider the order of its installation:

1. Connect the legs and pipes that come with the kit.
2. Attach the pipes with legs to the bottom of the tub with screws.
3. Install the bath in its location and, according to the level, adjust its position.
4. Using a pencil or marker, on the wall adjacent to the product, draw a line around the entire perimeter for placing the lower part of the bathtub rim.
5. Move the sanitary container away from the place of work.
6. Attach metal grips to the wall.
7. From the beam, cut off fragments with lengths equal to the distances between the metal grips, the grip and the edge of the tub.
8. Attach the cut pieces to the wall so that the container rests on them after installation.
9. Measure the distance from the bottom of the support beam to the floor, based on these measurements, make thrust elements from wood.
10. Apply silicone sealant to the side of the wooden stop that is against the wall and install it as shown in photo 4.
11. Put the bathtub on the new frame, check its position and the fit of the frame and the rim.
12. Under the seat, mark out the placement of the corners for attaching wooden supports.
13. Remove the bath to a safe place and fix the corners to the wall, to the corners of the double support beam, and to them the stop. As a result, the seat should rest on the structure shown in photo 5.
14. Attach a siphon and overflow to the bathtub. Put it on a rigid frame and grips.
15. Connect the siphon to the sewer outlet and check the tightness of the drain connection.
16. There is a gap between the wooden support and the upper part of the side, into which firmly insert an additional beam to create a main support for the side (photo 6).

Photo 4. Installing an acrylic bathtub on an additional timber frame.

Photo 5. Installing a corner acrylic bath.

Photo 6. Attaching an acrylic bath to the wall.

The stage of erection of the frame is over, proceed to the next steps.

Installing an acrylic bath on bricks

The bottom of the acrylic product rests on the channel, but they do not securely fix the position of the bottom. The plastic softens under the influence of temperature, if it is not additionally strengthened during the bathing process, the bottom will dynamically change its position. Over time, these stresses will damage the acrylic. When the installation of the acrylic bath on the frame is completed, it is desirable to further strengthen it with bricks and foam.

Work order:

1. Measure the distance from the bottom to the floor.
2. Based on measurements, select the number and size of bricks so that they are enough to fit under the entire area of ​​the bottom of the bath, while leaving a gap of 5 - 10 mm between the brick base and the bottom. Instead of a brick, you can use a cinder block or its fragments.
3. Fill the gap left with foam. At the end of the foam hardening period, the bath is ready for use.

Such an installation of an acrylic bath on bricks not only provides a uniform load on the product, but also reliable fixation and reduced heat loss.

Screen installation

The side screen of acrylic bathtubs is often sold separately. For rectangular structures the side part can be done independently, for example, from drywall, followed by tiling. In this case, the screen is set at an angle for the convenience of placing the legs in the process of doing some kind of work on the bathroom. For the same purposes, in its lower part, in the middle, an opening is left with a width of 200 - 300 mm and a height of 100 - 150 mm.

Such protection will be difficult to manufacture for corner products. Therefore, it is advisable to purchase a standard screen along with the bathroom. It comes with grips, stops and spring-loaded legs. This kit does not provide structural rigidity.

Consider one of the options for strengthening the screen

Attach metal grips and stops to the bathtub and the wall in such a way that, resting against the stops and grips, the screen is flush with the tub in an upright position.

Install the feet into the mounting holes of the side protection. Prepare a timber in the amount of 6 pcs. with a height corresponding to the height between the edges of the screen.

In the four prepared elements in the side, make a hole with a diameter of 14 mm and a depth equal to the height of the connecting nut. Since the nut must fit snugly into the wood, the hole should not be reamed.

Wooden products with nuts will serve as additional support legs, others serve as fittings.

Drive the connecting nuts into the beam. On the side parts of the protection, mark the holes for attaching wooden elements to the screen. The beam must be positioned in this way: without holes on the sides, and the other four parts should be evenly distributed over the protection, taking into account the existing legs.

In places where the board without connecting nuts will be placed, on both sides of the screen collar, make holes in the middle with a diameter of 4 mm and ream to place the screw head on the same level with the product.

At the installation points of the bar with nuts in the upper part of the protection, make holes of 4 mm with a countersink, and on the opposite side, a hole with a diameter of 10 mm.

Place wooden elements tightly in the screen and fix them with screws and bolts in accordance with the purpose. Install the protection in its place, spread it with bolts installed in the additional support legs, between the floor and the side of the bath.

Sealing gaps

A gap is formed between the installed plumbing and the wall. To prevent water from entering the wooden frame structures and the floor, it must be repaired. The gap can be removed in an original way with the help of silicone and an external plastic corner for tiles.

First of all, marking is done and, in accordance with this, trimming the length and corners of the corner. Then the gap is filled with silicone and a prepared corner is inserted into it.

After a day, the design becomes airtight and fits perfectly into the interior of the bathroom.

Dismantling of the acrylic product

The service life of acrylic in comparison with the cast-iron and steel counterparts is small. The bath may leak due to non-compliance with the rules for the care of acrylic, mechanical damage to the body, etc. If there is no possibility of restoration, the product must be replaced. Since the product is securely fixed to the floor and walls with silicone and foam, consider the procedure for dismantling it:

1. Dismantle the side protection of the bath and put it in an inaccessible place.
2. With a hacksaw blade for metal, cut the foam layer between the bricks and the bottom.
3. Insert a replaceable clerical knife blade between the outer plastic corner, which closes the gap between the walls of the room and the shoulder of the product, and the wall and cut through the silicone sealing layer around the entire perimeter.
4. Remove the corner from the gap. If it cannot be separated, then by lifting the corner by the free end, cut the sealant.
5. Since the container is fixed with metal grips, lift one end with force until the edge comes out of the groove. Do the same manipulation with the rest of the sides.

This completes the dismantling of the product. When replacing with a similar model, it is not necessary to redo the frame.

Step 1. We print out the purchased bath and the factory frame and lay it out on a clean floor, after laying a soft cloth or cardboard. In the set of fasteners you will find short and long metal profiles, self-tapping screws, legs and pads for them (thrust bearings), dowels, studs, washers, nuts, racks. Depending on the configuration, the number of parts may be different, for example, there are more metal profiles in the reinforced frame, or the bathtub comes immediately with an all-welded frame.

Usually holes are already drilled in the fittings and dowels are inserted. This eliminates the need to mark up and drill holes yourself.

Acrylic bathtubs for the most part are installed not only on the frame, but are also fixed along the junction line to the walls with metal hanging hooks.

If there is no drain fitting in the kit, it must be purchased, taking into account the height of the legs and comparing it with the dimensions of the siphon.

For work, you will definitely need screwdrivers, wrenches and pliers. Also, do not forget about silicone-based sealant, bubble level, tape measure and pencil.

Step 2. We start by assembling the frame and legs. We turn the bath over without removing the protective film from the inner surface. We provide easy access to any side of the bowl.

Using long self-tapping screws, we connect the profiles. We rely on the instructions attached to the acrylic bath and the correspondence of the holes in the longitudinal reinforcement with the dowels installed in the transverse slats.

We place the assembled frame exactly in the center of the bottom of the bath.

Step 3. Let's move on to installing the legs. We will install three pieces on the front edge of the bathtub, two under the bottom of the bowl and two more at the edge, which will adjoin the wall.

We begin to fasten the racks with the profile and the side of the bath. We install the rack on the side, screw the first long stud into it, and onto the stud - the nut. The resulting stud with a stand is inserted into the hole of the longitudinal metal profile. We fix the stud with a nut and locknut. From above we fasten a plastic thrust bearing-support.

Similarly, we collect the remaining legs-supports. We adjust the height of the legs depending on the dimensions of the decorative screen. The approximate height from the floor to the edge of the side should be 60 cm.

For the legs located under the bottom of the bathtub, short hairpins are intended. We insert them into the holes of the transverse profiles, fix them with nuts and screw on the plastic supports.

Step 4. We check the assembled frame with a bubble level.

If necessary, tighten the studs with a wrench, aligning the position.

We take short self-tapping screws and fasten the racks with the sides of the bath.

Step 5. Turn over the bath. We take the level and once again double-check the horizontalness of the sides. It is not necessary to make slopes for better water flow.

Step 6. Now you can connect the siphon with overflow, based on the manufacturer's instructions. General principle connection of revision siphons (strapping) of the knee type is as follows:

Note! Before the stage of the final installation of the bathtub and the screen, it is possible to insulate the bottom of the bowl with mounting foam, applying it in a thin stream to the sides, the bottom and partially capturing the fasteners in order to further fix them.

Step 7. When the siphon is assembled and the bath is level, it remains to make markings on the walls, drill holes and fix brackets or hooks on the wall that will hold the bath. We put the edge of the bath on these hooks, and insert the free end of the thick corrugation of the siphon into the sewer hole. After docking, we apply a strip of silicone sealant to the place where the bathtub adjoins the wall and fix the baseboard or protective strip.

Note! To check the quality of the siphon installation and the correct installation of the structure, you should take a full bath of cold water and wait a few hours. If no leaks or distortions are found, you can drain the water, install a decorative screen and use the bathroom. Otherwise, you will have to disassemble and assemble all products in order to eliminate defects.

Step 8. Installing a decorative screen. Clip-on fasteners are included. First, the upper fasteners are screwed, after which the opposite ones are lower. The decorative panel simply "clicks" on them.

Attach the wringer plates to the embedded elements, setting a distance of 2 mm between the edge of the tub and the edge of the wringer plate

You can also make a frame for a decorative panel from wooden bars or metal profiles.

Installing a bathtub on bricks

No factory frame? Not a problem! We can install an acrylic bath on bricks. This option is even more reliable than the method of installing the bath on a factory-made frame.

The support may be solid or columnar.

Installing a bathtub on a solid brick substrate

First step. We temporarily install the bath in the place of its future installation and project a drain hole onto the base. This will give us the opportunity to leave a gap in the substrate for connection.

Second step. We lay out the bricks on the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe entire supporting part of the container. We select the height so that the sides of the bath rise above the floor by no more than 600 mm. At the same time, we take into account that we will still have a 2-3 cm pillow made of polyurethane foam.

Bricks are laid on a traditional cement mortar.

Third step. We assemble a plywood frame around the perimeter of the brickwork. The height of such sheets should exceed the masonry by the thickness of the foam substrate. Don't forget to leave the drain hole unfilled.

Fourth step. We evenly foam the surface of the substrate with polyurethane foam, without going beyond the boundaries of the frame. We immediately apply pre-prepared sheet plywood to the foam. We use moisture resistant sheets 10 mm thick.

Fifth step. We tightly seal the drain of the acrylic bath. At the same stage, we prepare about a liter of water and wooden supports to regulate the installation level of the tank.

Sixth step. Pour the previously prepared water into the container and set the bath on the substrate at the building level.

Seventh step. While the polyurethane foam has not hardened, we adjust the evenness of the installation of the bath with the help of props. As a result, the water in the tank should be evenly distributed around the drain, and the level should show “0”.

Eighth step. Having set the bathtub according to the level, pour water into it by about half the volume. Under the weight of the water, the foam will not be able to lift the container, and the bath itself will take the required slope.

Ninth step. Let the foam dry and remove the bath. If the edges of the container should be recessed into the wall, we first outline the edge contour on the surface, and then make a recess in the wall for the edge of the bath. A perforator will help us with this. If the arrangement of the groove is not provided (this is not recommended if the walls are made of blocks, drywall or other light material), at the level of the lower cut, we simply fix the impregnated beam, or a steel corner. We will additionally strengthen the supporting bar at the end with stops.

Tenth step. We return our container to its place and connect it to the sewer. We blow out the gaps between the container and the bricks with foam. We install a decorative screen and skirting boards.

Example of a brick-mounted bathtub with mosaic finish

First step. We bring the container into the bathroom.

Second step. We carry out the marking of the base at the installation site of the brick supports. The most correct option is to erect pillars closer to the edges of the curve of the acrylic bath. If the container is long, an additional support can be erected in the middle.

Third step. Having outlined the places for laying the supports, we proceed to the preparation of the cement mortar. We don’t cook too much - we have to lay out no more than 20 bricks, so we don’t need extra expenses.

Fourth step. Let's start laying. We lay out the support for the back of the bath to a height of 190 mm, we raise the column for the front edge of the tank to 170 mm. The height of the middle support, if needed, is selected according to the situation, depending on the design of the installed bath. The difference in the height of the pillars will provide conditions for the effective flow of water from the tank.

Important note! Many modern acrylic bathtubs initially have a sloping bottom to allow water to drain. If you have such a bath, set all the supports according to the level, focusing on the top.

Fifth step. We give the masonry about a day to dry and install the bath. We set the container slowly, moving it tightly against the walls. We fill the gaps between the bricks and the bathroom with sealant.

If desired, you can additionally fix the bath to the wall using dowels and a metal profile. Such a mount is used quite rarely, but still occurs.

After making sure that the installation of the bathtub is correct, stable and even, we connect the sewerage system, install, mount the decorative screen and lay the plinth on the bathtub.

Video - Installing an acrylic bath using a combined method

Video - How to install an acrylic bath yourself

Video - We put an acrylic bath with our own hands

When carrying out a major overhaul of the bathroom, as a rule, they try to replace plumbing items.

Consider how to install an acrylic bathtub by doing the work on your own.

Selection and storage of acrylic bathtubs

One of the significant advantages of acrylic bathtubs is the variety of their shapes and colors. This circumstance allows you to select models for a variety of rooms, both for the usual standard and for the spacious bathroom in the cottage.

Prices for acrylic bathtubs also differ in variety. Of course, when buying, you should proceed from your financial capabilities, however, you should not buy baths that are too cheap. Such plumbing is not of high quality, and you will have to make sure of this even at the installation stage.

When buying a bath, do not be shy, not only carefully examine the purchased product, but also smell it.

The presence of a sharp "chemical" smell indicates a poor quality product.

Before you ask yourself how to install an acrylic bath, you need to make sure that it is properly stored during the preparatory work.

If installation is not planned in the near future, you should not release the bath from the factory packaging. The manufacturer takes care of the safety of his goods during transportation and unloading, so he packs the tubs in such a way as to prevent accidental damage.

If the inner surface of the bath is covered with a protective film, then it should not be removed until all installation work has been completed.

This measure will prevent accidental damage to the polymer surface.

Preparatory stage

We fasten the metal frame to the bath

When deciding how to properly install an acrylic bathtub, one cannot neglect the preparatory stage.

• Even before buying a bath, all measurements should be taken to make sure that the selected model is on the planned site.
• If a bathtub with hydromassage equipment is chosen, then attention should be paid to the preparation of electrical wiring for connecting pumping equipment.
  It is necessary to bring the outputs of the supply cable to the place where the compressor, pump and control unit will be installed. In addition, you need to insulate the wiring and ground the contacts.
• Next, you should organize the supply of water pipes and sewerage. In this case, it must be taken into account that the pipeline should not interfere with the tight fit of the sides of the bath to the wall.
• Before installing a corner acrylic bathtub, it is necessary to check whether the walls in the corner where the model is to be placed really form a right angle.
  If this is not the case, then plastering work will be required to level the corner.

Installing an acrylic bath

An example of fixing the frame of a corner bath

Acrylic is not a metal that holds its shape very well, so additional measures have to be taken to ensure the stability of the bath. As a rule, acrylic baths are mounted on a frame. This mounting hardware may be included with the tub, but if it is not, you will have to assemble the frame yourself.

Consider how to properly install an acrylic bathtub, provided that the frame is included in the product package.

• The bath is turned upside down and placed on a soft lining (you can use the cardboard from the packaging).
• The frame is assembled according to the recommendations in the instructions attached to the product.
• Frame guides and legs are screwed to the bathtub.

As a rule, the bottom of acrylic bathtubs is made with a noticeable thickening so that details can be screwed on.

However, when drilling holes for installing self-tapping screws, you should install a stop on the drill so that you do not inadvertently drill a through hole.

Fasten the legs to a rectangular bath

• Now the bath should be turned over and placed on legs in the place where installation is planned. By adjusting the height of the legs, you should ensure that the sides of the bath are located strictly horizontally.
• If you plan to install a decorative screen, then the distance from the bottom edge of the side to the floor should be 60 cm.
• After the height of the legs has been adjusted, mark the location of the bathtub on the wall.
• The bathtub is set aside, and along the marked line, the frame frame from the profile or fastening hooks are fixed (the type of fastening depends on the model of the bathtub). It is necessary to fasten the profile or hooks with a puncher and screws.

If the walls are tiled, then a special drill for ceramic tiles should be used to drill holes.

And to make it more convenient to work, you should stick a piece of adhesive tape on the location of the hole.

This trick will prevent the drill from sliding on the glossy surface of the tile and will protect the tile from cracking.

Installation of bathrooms and blowing the space under the bathtub with polyurethane foam

• The bath is installed in place so that its side rests on the frame frame or hooks.
• Now you need to connect the bath to the sewer system. This is a simple matter, especially if modern plastic pipes are installed in the bathroom, but it is extremely inconvenient. The fact is that the release of water is organized at the lowest point, so that the drain is carried out by gravity. Therefore, the distance between the floor and the bottom of the bath in this place is minimal, which creates great inconvenience during work.
• To make the work a little easier, it is recommended to connect the siphon and the sewer pipe before installing the bath. It is not difficult to do this: a rubber sleeve is inserted into the socket of the receiving pipe, and a siphon pipe is inserted into it.

Before inserting the coupling, it must be lubricated both inside and outside with silicone sealant.

• After the siphon is installed, you can put the bath in place. It is more convenient to connect to the siphon with an assistant. One person will press the siphon outlet to the drain hole in the bathroom, and the second will insert the neck and twist it on the nozzle.
• Between the outlet of the siphon and the bottom of the bath, a gasket should be placed, which should be lubricated on both sides with silicone sealant.
• After the drain neck is tightened, you can proceed with the installation of the overflow. The hose is brought to the overflow neck and a nut is screwed onto it, and then a wedge-shaped gasket is placed (the gasket should be positioned with a narrow part towards the cut end of the hose).
• Now the hose should be inserted into a thin tube and tighten the nut. The second end of the hose is fixed on the previously installed siphon. On the last step the overflow is pressed against the hole in the bath and the neck is screwed onto it.

Connecting a bathroom to a sewer pipe

• After installation is completed, the system should be checked for leaks. To do this, the bath is filled with water and released, observing how the system works. If leaks are detected, loose connections must be tightened.
• The last stage of installation is the formation of a substrate under the bath. Such a substrate will provide it with additional stability and protect it from rocking.
  Bricks or thick rubber pads were previously used as a substrate. But today there is a simpler, but no less effective solution - the use of mounting foam.
• If the bottom of the bath is not high above the floor, then you can simply fill the free space with foam.
  If the distance is significant, then as a base, you can use columns of bricks or even plastic bottles with water. Next, you need to fill with foam all the free space under the bath.

Before using the mounting foam, fill the bathtub with water. Otherwise, the expanding layer of foam may raise the bottom of the tub.

• The foam under the bath will dry for about a day. After the expiration of this period, the water from the bath can be released, and a decorative one can be installed under it.
  If the screen is solid, then an inspection hole will have to be made in it to provide access to the installation site of the siphon.
• When deciding how to install an acrylic corner bath, the procedure remains the same as described above.
• The junction of the sides of the bathtub and the wall should be filled with silicone sealant, and a special self-adhesive tape should be glued on top, which matches the color of the bathtub and gives the joints a neat look.

Above is an instruction for installing an acrylic bathtub with the most in a simple way. If desired, you can install the bath on a frame made of bricks.

This method of installation provides a secure fixation of the bath, but requires building skills and experience. The process in one way or another can be seen clearly if you watch the training videos presented on construction sites.