We build the foundation with our own hands, a phased demonstration of construction. How to make a strip foundation with your own hands: step-by-step instructions, a diagram of a strip foundation for a private house. Slab and strip foundations for stone houses

Properly choosing and building a foundation that is optimal for a particular type and size of house means providing the building with a solid support that will last for several decades. Even a building designed by a genius will not stand for a couple of years if it is installed on an unreliable foundation. Ground water, seasonal rainfall, changes in soil density and mobility will quickly destroy such a structure.

It is desirable to shift the care of choosing and equipping the foundation onto the shoulders of professionals who have the proper experience and know how to build a foundation for a house. This will not lead to budget overruns, laying errors and, as a result, poor quality of the support. Qualified specialists will not only help determine the type of optimal foundation, which will reduce the overall cost of building a house, but they will also guarantee to do the job with the highest quality.

Varieties of foundations for low-rise construction

Choosing a suitable foundation for the house is the main task with which construction begins. The wrong view will affect the durability of the building, strength characteristics or cause unnecessary costs. Therefore, you should first decide on the type of support. For this, a number of important parameters are taken into account.

The depth of groundwater. If they are too close to the surface, then an unsuitable foundation will lead to flooding and uneven settlement of the building.

Density and composition of the soil. Moving soils require one type of foundation, dense - another.

Depth of ground freezing. If this factor is not taken into account, then after each thaw there is a chance of cracks in the foundation, walls and ceilings.

Reinforced strip foundation with ventilation holes

In low-rise construction of residential buildings, cottages, baths, sheds and other outbuildings, four main types of foundations are used.

Tape. It is a solid structure, which is located around the perimeter of the future building. It can be poured into formwork directly on site or assembled from concrete blocks made separately.

Slab. Consists of several layers, each of which performs a specific function. The top layer is a solid reinforced concrete slab.

Pile-grillage. It is assembled from pillars buried deep in the ground, which are connected in the upper part by a grillage-lintel, which evenly distributes the load on the structure.

Pile. It is erected from supports, which are located evenly under the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe house or under places with the greatest load - the corners of the house, walls, lintels.

Depending on the above factors, the material of manufacture of the building and its dimensions, the final result is determined, and a foundation project for the house is created.

Column foundation for light outbuildings

When building any foundation, it is necessary to take into account the weight of the building. Light outbuildings do not require a monumental foundation, so columnar foundations are most widely used for them. Their choice is due to the following qualities:

speed of installation;

low cost;

ability to provide secure support.

The columnar foundation is installed on a pillow of sand or fine gravel, in the upper part the pillars are connected by beams, on which a plinth is installed in the future. It is important to take into account the depth of freezing of the soil and the degree of its heaving. This type of base is suitable for inactive soil, otherwise the structure may shift.

On our website you can find contacts of construction companies that offer foundation design and repair services. You can directly communicate with representatives by visiting the exhibition of houses "Low-Rise Country".

Pile foundation for frame houses

A pile foundation is several piles screwed or driven into the ground (thick metal pipes with an anti-corrosion coating), on which the piping is mounted and a house is built.

Since this technology is relatively new and not all construction companies can boast that they are fluent in it, there are still cases when, some time after construction, the house sags under some piles. But foreign experience shows that such incidents occur only when the technology is not followed, and if the pile foundation is installed in accordance with all the rules, then it will become a reliable support for the house. In addition, piles make it possible to erect buildings even on soils with a high degree of mobility.

Foundation for wooden log houses

Structures made of logs and timber are lighter than brick or concrete, but exceed frame houses, so the best option for them would be a shallow tape or pile-grillage foundation.

The first option allows you to equip the basement, has sufficient resistance to loads and relatively low cost. To ensure its durability, it is necessary to equip high-quality waterproofing and pour a thick sand cushion.

For a pile-grillage foundation, it is necessary to dig holes to the level of soil freezing and connect them with isthmuses. Then, concrete is poured into the pits and ditches and a concrete band is obtained, from which pillars emerge, resting on the soil below the freezing level.

The device of the pile-grillage foundation

These types of foundations provide an opportunity to equip a reliable and durable foundation that can easily withstand the weight of a wooden house of one or two floors and avoid unnecessary overpayment by equipping an unnecessarily expensive support designed for an impressive mass.

Slab and strip foundations for stone houses

Buildings made of brick, concrete or building blocks require a strong foundation, because they have an impressive weight and are completely devoid of plasticity, which, although to a small extent, is inherent in wooden houses. The slightest movement of the base can lead to the formation of cracks in the walls and ceilings. Therefore, the best option would be a slab or recessed strip foundation.

The slab base is a multi-level structure that fits into a pre-dug hole, slightly larger than the building under construction. Pcastfoundation for the house consists of the following layers:

crushed stone pillow;

a layer of sand;

waterproofing;

reinforced concrete slab;

second layer of waterproofing;

warming.

This type of foundation allows you to withstand the heavy weight of the building and provides a fixed support on heaving soils.

Strip foundation deep laying is mounted at a depth of more than a meter in order to be below the freezing level of the soil. Depending on the region and the average annual temperature, this value may vary. The tape type of the base performs a dual function, in addition to providing reliable support for the stone walls, it allows you to equip the basement, but in this case you will need to spend money on waterproofing and insulation.

What is the cheapest foundation for a house?

Considering how to properly build a foundation for a private house and not spend more than necessary, you should take into account the type of soil, the weight of the building and a lot of other characteristics, then you will be able to choose the ideal option.

The lowest cost and time spent are inherent in the columnar foundation. But it has two significant limitations: installation only on inactive or immovable soils and a small weight of the structure. As a result, it is categorically unsuitable for a residential building or heavy construction.

In second place are piles, but here it all depends on their variety. Screw the most inexpensive of all but suitable for light buildings, bored - for brick and concrete, and driven provide a high level of stability, but are very expensive.

Strip foundation. A non-buried and shallow-buried view will not cost much more than a columnar one, and a deep-laid tape has the highest price due to the increase in work and the use of a large amount of materials.

A monolithic slab is the most expensive type of foundation, but provides maximum reliability on heaving soils. In some cases, such a foundation is the only option suitable for the soil.

What are the types of foundation? How is the construction of the foundation and how much does it cost? See all this and more in this issue:

As a result, it is far from a fact that a seemingly inexpensive foundation will remain so. Sometimes it happens, for example, that it is more profitable to make a monolithic foundation than to bury a tape foundation to the freezing depth. The choice of foundation should be based on a combination of factors, because the price may change depending on the situation.

Slab foundation with bituminous coating under a brick house

Strip foundation - the best option

If the soils do not impose special restrictions on the choice of foundation, then the tape will be the best option. Its advantages over others:

provides high stability of the building of any weight;

universal (depending on the situation, a certain type of basis is used, which allows you to spend the budget within strictly defined limits);

the arrangement of hydro- and thermal insulation provides resistance to soil freezing, protects against the formation of condensate and extends the service life of the support.

The only limitation for installing a strip foundation is high soil moisture, but there are few areas with such soils in our country, so in all other cases this type of foundation can be used.

Conclusion

The foundation is one of the most important parts of a building. It is foolish to save on it, it cannot be made of low quality, access to it will be severely limited after the construction of the building, which complicates the repair. His equipment must be done immediately and well, so such work can only be trusted by professionals.

An obligatory part of a residential and industrial building is the foundation for a house. It provides stability, reliability, as well as a long service life of the building. It is important to thoroughly study before starting construction how to build a foundation for a house, as well as to study the design features and purpose of various types of foundations. Foundations are built in strict accordance with the requirements of technology. Let us dwell in more detail on the sequence of actions for their construction.

Foundation for a house - varieties and features of foundation foundations

The design features of the foundations make it possible to use them as a reliable base for various buildings. The choice of foundation design is a serious task, which is solved on the basis of an analysis of a complex of factors. It should be borne in mind that the choice of the optimal option is influenced by natural factors, as well as the mass and design of the future building.

The foundation of any structure is its foundation, on which the future of the erected object depends

The following types of foundations are widely used in the construction industry:

• columnar. It is easy to build it for wood or on your own. A distinctive feature of the columnar foundation is that it allows the construction of buildings on sites with a significant slope. The supporting elements are located at the intersection points of the walls, as well as evenly along the entire contour of the building. With such a device, the base does not allow to equip the basement. The design has proven itself in problem areas. The columnar base ensures the stability of buildings located in areas with an increased depth of soil freezing;

• tape. The reinforced concrete base of the structure repeats the contour of the building and is concreted with a kind of tape. Professional builders know how to make a strip foundation for a house. It is important to build a strip foundation on soils with deep aquifers and shallow freezing depths. On strip foundations, houses made of bricks, block buildings, a building for household purposes, as well as protective structures should be located. Massive structures made of heavy stone should not be built on a tape base. The design of the strip foundation allows the arrangement of the basement. You can build the foundation yourself or by using the services of professional builders;

One of the most popular types of foundations for any individual buildings is a strip foundation.

• slab. If it is necessary to make a reliable foundation base for a building located on problematic soils, a slab version is used. Structurally, the slab foundation is a massive concrete slab reinforced with a steel wire reinforcing cage. The slab construction is characterized by an increased level of costs, which pays off with the long-term operation of the building. To ensure the required margin of safety, it is necessary to perform strength calculations and evaluate the load capacity of the slab base;

• pile-screw. Increased load capacity, a short duration of installation activities, as well as an affordable price are the main features of the foundation on pile or screw supports. The pile screw type base is widely used in areas with various types of soil, except for rocky. A significant drawback of the pile-screw base is the gradual destruction of steel supports as a result of the negative influence of corrosion processes.

When thinking about how to make a foundation for a house, study in detail the types of foundations, their design features, and also consult with professional builders.

How to make the foundation for the house yourself

Installation and installation of the foundation under the house is a responsible set of activities carried out according to a certain algorithm. When we build a foundation for a house, we should follow the technological sequence of operations and be guided by the requirements of the project.

Do not think that in each individual case you can bet only on a specific type of foundation for future construction.

The main stages in the construction of the foundation base:

1. Performing markup.
2. Production of earthworks.
3. Formwork construction.
4. Assembly and installation of the reinforcing cage.
5. Pouring concrete solution.
6. Consolidation of the array with deep vibrators.

Please note when making the foundation base that reliable waterproofing of the foundation will protect the building from moisture absorption and avoid dampness. Let us dwell on the specifics of the main stages.

Marking the foundation base

The marking operation involves the transfer of design coordinates to the real conditions of the construction site. For marking measures, pegs made of wood and metal, as well as a construction cord, are used.

When performing markup, adhere to the following algorithm:

After you decide on the type of future supporting structure and are already ready to proceed with the direct construction, it's time to mark the foundation

1. Drive in the pegs along the front part and stretch the construction cord. The interval between the pegs hammered into the soil should exceed the size of the facade by 50 cm.
2. Mark on the cord the coordinates of the location of the corners of the building, and hammer in the stakes. Draw marking lines through the marked points, perpendicular to the front of the building.
3. Measure along perpendicular lines the distance corresponding to the length of the side walls of the building and make a mark using the available wooden or steel pegs.
4. Stretch a cord between the hammered pegs. The resulting markup corresponds to the external contour of the future home. Check the correctness of the markup using the project.
5. Check the correspondence of the angles by determining the difference of the diagonals. Equal length indicates right angles. Diagonal lengths may vary by up to 2 cm.
6. Mark the inner contour of the foundation line, stepping back from the outer contour into the future foundation 40 cm on each side. Hammer the pegs in the appropriate places.

The markup performed affects the location of the future structure, its configuration, as well as strength properties.

Earth activities

Earthwork is one of the most time-consuming operations in the construction process. Earthworks are carried out by various methods:

Determine the depth of soil water and soil composition

• manually using bayonet and shovel shovels. The manual method is characterized by labor intensity and requires the involvement of an increased number of workers to complete the task within the specified time;
• using special construction equipment. The mechanization of earthworks can significantly speed up their implementation, which reduces the duration of the overall construction cycle.

The depth of the formed pit is determined by the type of foundation being constructed:

• shallow-depth tape base is located below the zero mark of the soil by 70-80 cm;
• the depth of a standard foundation, depending on the level of soil freezing, can be 160-180 cm.

When healing the soil, pay attention to the following points:

• ensure the verticality of the trench walls;
• install, if necessary, supports to prevent shedding of the soil;
• level the bottom of the pit and check the levelness with a level.

The cushion of crushed stone and sand provided for by the project requires an increase in the depth of the trench by 15-20 cm.

The procedure for the construction of crushed stone and sand bedding:

1. Pour sand on the base of the pit, ensuring a layer thickness of up to 15 cm.
2. Moisten the sand mass and carefully compact it.
3. Re-fill with sand and re-compact.
4. Lay a layer of gravel 15-20 cm thick on the sand and compact it.

To prevent siltation of gravel-sand bedding for a shallow foundation, laying a geotextile fabric on the bottom of the pit will allow.

Dig a trench of the required depth along the perimeter of the future building, level the bottom with sand

Installation of formwork for the foundation

The installation of panel formwork requires special training. It is important to decide on the choice of building material that can withstand the load from the weight of the concrete mixture.

For the manufacture of formwork used:

• edged wood 2-2.5 cm thick;
• moisture resistant plywood;
• sheet steel.

The use of plywood and boards, which have a low price, can reduce costs.

The sequence of actions for the installation of formwork:

When installing the formwork, pay special attention to the rigidity of the panel structure and the absence of gaps.

Reinforcement is a prerequisite for building a good foundation

A spatial frame made of steel reinforcement, placed in the foundation, makes it possible to increase its strength and ensure durability. For the manufacture of the frame, rods with a cross section of 1-1.6 cm are used, connected by annealed wire.

Frame assembly procedure:

1. Cut the bars into blanks of the required dimensions.
2. Tie the rods into a flat lattice using a tie wire.
3. Assemble a frame from two flat gratings using transverse rods.

Lay the assembled frame on special stands that guarantee a fixed distance to the concrete surface.

The reinforcing cage is inserted and the pit is poured with concrete during periodic tamping

Pouring the foundation under the house on their own

Before concreting, mark the level of mortar pouring inside the panel formwork. The use of concrete produced at specialized enterprises makes it possible to produce a foundation with increased strength. When we make the foundation, we use a concrete solution based on M400 Portland cement, fine gravel and coarse sand.

Prepare the solution according to the following technology:

1. Prepare the ingredients in the ratios appropriate for the recipe.
2. Mix the sifted sand with crushed stone and Portland cement.
3. Gradually add water until the desired consistency is reached.
4. Stir the solution thoroughly until smooth.

The order of the stages of pouring the foundation:

1. Pour the concrete mortar with a twenty-centimeter layer.
2. Check the filling of voids in the reinforcement grid.
3. Add the rest of the concrete.
4. Remove air inclusions with reinforcing bars.
5. Compact the concrete mass with a vibrator.

After concreting is completed, level the surface with a rule or trowel. Dismantle the formwork after the final hardening of the concrete.

How to build a foundation for an extension to a building

When thinking about arranging the foundation for an extension, adhere to the following recommendations:

• observe the equal depth of the foundation of the attached structure and the main building;
• provide a rigid connection between the reinforcement grid of the main structure and the extension frame.

Filling is carried out in the same way as the main foundation.

When planning to build a foundation for a house from expanded clay concrete blocks or other building materials, it is important to determine the type of foundation, as well as study the technology. Knowing the technological nuances, it is easy to make a concrete or auxiliary building. Professional builders will tell you, if necessary, how to properly fill or a residential building. As a foundation base, you can use the foundation is easy to find on our construction portal. The construction of the foundation is a responsible process in which there are no trifles.

The choice of foundation design for the future frame house was based on the simplest soil survey on the site. Earlier on the site, with the help of a garden drill, a well was drilled, a depth of about 2 meters. The excavated soil turned out to be clay, drilling was carried out in winter, while it appeared 40 cm from the surface. This indicates that the soil is not of the best bearing capacity. When drilling a well, a lot of stones came across, from which the well turned out to be not straight-linear. Therefore, the pile foundation, typical for the construction of a frame house, had not to be postponed, the standard strip foundation of the roads remains a strip shallow foundation. After research, in cross section, the dimensions of the tape were taken to be 520x300 mm. The volume of concrete mixture for such a tape was exactly 5 m³. Next, it was necessary to develop a formwork drawing.

Before pouring the foundation tape, it is necessary to dig a trench around the perimeter and fill it with a sand and gravel mixture.

The marking of the trench and the selection of soil for the foundation began in mid-May. The ground was already dry and nothing prevented the work from starting.

Under the sand and gravel preparation, drainage pipes were laid, which were sewer pipes with perforation (small cuts, special corrugated drainage pipes with factory perforation can be used) and wrapped with non-woven material. Groundwater is drained into a drainage ditch located behind the site.

After laying the drainage pipes, the trench is lined with geotextiles to minimize siltation of the sand and gravel preparation. Next, the sand-gravel mixture is laid in layers, spilled with water and rammed. The last layer is leveled with a hydraulic level.

Next in line is the manufacture of formwork. We make the formwork from a two-meter fence board with a thickness of 25 mm. If possible, use thicker boards, as the load from the concrete mixture is very high. The inner surface of the formwork is covered with a stapler with glassine (it is cheaper) or plastic wrap.

Now reinforcement is being done. The simplest conductor is made and frames for the entire foundation are cooked from reinforcement with a diameter of 6 mm. Already in place, the frames are connected at the corners with longitudinal threads of reinforcement with a diameter of 10 mm. The details of the reinforcement of the foundation tape are best connected with knitting wire or welding. Think over the ventilation system in advance and lay the mortgages from plumbing pipes into the foundation so that ventilation holes are obtained after casting.

The next stage is preparatory work before pouring the foundation. An additional distribution box is being made, with the help of which the concrete mixture solution will be supplied to the extreme corners of the formwork, an access road from a free slab is being laid so that the mixer does not get stuck with concrete in the soil of the site and does not mix it.

FOR REFERENCE: the weight of a fully loaded mixer is ≈ 35 tons.

And finally, we order a 5 m³ concrete mortar mixer, invite friends, call workers, distribute shovels to everyone and start taking the mortar. The side walls of the formwork are reinforced with jibs, the upper edges are connected with scraps of boards, if possible, bund. After the solution is filled, but still seized, a preliminary layout of the upper surface is carried out according to the hydraulic level.

While the concrete sets, you can go to rest for a week on the sea. Upon arrival, the formwork is disassembled, all nails and screws are removed, the boards are stacked to dry. Formwork boards will come in handy during further construction.

Many private developers are constantly faced with the need to build the foundation of a country house for themselves, their friend or neighbor in the countryside. Moreover, it can be a private residential building or an outbuilding, so for each particular house, the foundation arrangement can differ significantly.

Many existing foundations can be built by yourself in a matter of days or weeks, and if everything is done correctly, then the reliability of such a foundation is practically no different from that which was built using powerful construction equipment and teams of qualified builders.

On what factors does the choice of foundation depend?

In order to build a foundation for a summer cottage, it is necessary to correctly determine the type, characteristics and purpose of the future structure, as well as adhere to a phased methodology for erecting the supporting structures of the structure. Factors affecting the choice of foundation:

1. Soil type and bearing characteristics. It is necessary to take into account the height of the location of groundwater, seasonal heaving of the soil, the bearing characteristics of the soil, as well as the terrain. It is clear that no one will build a monolithic foundation or prefabricated aerated concrete structures on a strong slope, because then a huge amount of work will have to be done to level the site. But a columnar base with a grillage is ideal for such purposes.
2. The mass of the future building and its overall dimensions. As a rule, country houses are rarely multi-storey, they are built one-story, less often two-story. As a building material, relatively light aerated concrete or heavier bricks are used, concrete blocks are not used here. Therefore, a private house is distinguished by its lightness and low permissible load on the ground, and it is desirable to select the type of foundation after calculations.
3. financial component. Each builder of a private house is well aware that the financial component plays an important role in the construction of the foundation. It is clear that they all want to choose the right device for a private one-story house, but they immediately calculate all the permissible risks and the cost of building materials. Therefore, if there is an aerated concrete production nearby or deposits of natural building stone are found, then they will use it and the foundation will be appropriate. In addition, the foundation for a house with their own hands is often built without the use of additional labor and powerful construction equipment, as this will significantly increase the cost of the financial estimate.
4. Purpose of the future building. If it is a one-story or more private residential building, then the foundation is selected as strong and reliable as possible. And if this is a small outbuilding, then the type of foundation will be completely different.

You also need to remember that the step-by-step instructions for laying the foundation differ significantly under different climatic conditions and the characteristics of a particular area, so it would be more correct to first decide and then build. An important role is played by the factor in the choice of building materials, from which the future foundation for the country house will be built.

Types of foundations for a country house

Tape. It is easy and quick to build such a foundation for a country house, and often you can use aerated concrete or brick here.

It is used in the construction of heavy one-story or more buildings, the load-bearing walls and ceilings of which will be built from heavy materials. This type of foundation is popular in suburban construction due to the ability to equip underground premises (garage, basement or technical floor).

Of course, there are several types of such bases that differ in design:

• Prefabricated. The device involves the use of ready-made factory reinforced concrete blocks, which are mounted directly on the construction site.
• Monolithic. By design, they have a single monolithic slab, load-bearing walls are erected on it. Such a slab is made of brick or rubble concrete, less often of aerated concrete. Reinforcing mesh can also be used here, such bases are already called reinforced concrete.
• Pile foundations for weak soils. The device involves the installation of finished metal or reinforced concrete piles (pillars) at the construction site. They can be of considerable length, since it is necessary to reach strong layers of soil below the freezing line.

Also, such foundations are popular because of their practicality and reliability, although it will not work to build even a one-story, but large private building on piles.

Piles are different, ranging from metal and reinforced concrete, ending with wood. The weaker the material, the less load they can withstand. Therefore, for the construction of a private large country building, it is better to immediately use reinforced concrete structures, which can be made directly at the construction site.

Only first you need to carry out the correct calculations and lay the foundation under optimal temperature conditions. Also, initially it is worth deciding what the foundation will be built from, and making a phased method for its construction.

• Universal monolithic plate. The device of such a foundation allows you to build private houses even on soft soils, because then the load is distributed evenly over the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe base.

But, the foundation is expensive due to the large amount of concrete and reinforcement, and building it from improvised weak materials is prohibited by building codes. It is better to lay such a foundation under small summer cottages, because then there will be a minimum of financial costs for land work, and the foundation can be shallow.

The main stages of laying the foundation

As a rule, laying the foundation always begins with the preparation of the construction site. But in practice, everything turns out a little differently, because it is impossible to choose and build the right foundation without preliminary calculations. Therefore, there are several key preparatory steps that you need to do before you build the foundation for the house yourself:

1. First, a detailed geodetic reconnaissance of the territory is carried out, a map of soils is compiled and the depth of groundwater is specified.
2. Then a map of the soil structure is developed and the depth of occurrence of strong rocks and the boundary depth of soil freezing are determined.
3. The place where it is best to lay the designed private building is determined.
4. The angle of inclination of the terrain is determined, minor irregularities of the construction site are eliminated.
5. The maximum allowable load on the foundation is calculated taking into account building materials. Sometimes in such calculations, aerated concrete is taken as the initial parameters, which is larger in mass than bricks, but less than concrete structures.
6. The optimal type of foundation is selected.
7. The type of building materials that are best suited for the construction of the designed structure is selected.

Step-by-step instructions for laying a tape-type foundation for a one-story country house

How to make a foundation for a house with your own hands? In practice, it is not as difficult as it seems, but nevertheless, the advice of an experienced builder will not be superfluous, since the knowledge gained will help to avoid mistakes. The laying of any foundation consists of the following stages using the example of a tape structure:

1. The construction site is marked, the surface is leveled and a loose layer of fertile soil is removed.
2. Then, a trench of the estimated depth and width is dug along the perimeter of the future building, the bottom is leveled and a sand cushion is formed on it.
3. A wooden formwork is mounted along the perimeter of the future foundation, inside which a reinforcing belt is provided. The design, device and characteristics of the reinforcement are selected individually for a specific type of foundation.
4. After the installation of the reinforcement and its connection, the concrete pouring of the trench begins directly. This must be done evenly, delamination should not be allowed. It is possible in this case to use prefabricated structures made of concrete or aerated concrete, only then the reinforcement must be done both horizontally and vertically with longitudinal inserts.

A waterproofing layer is installed on the outer surface of the finished base, then the structure can be further strengthened with a vertical row of aerated concrete or brick.

How to build a columnar or pile foundation with your own hands

Schematic representation of the order of work on laying the columnar foundation of the building with your own hands

Considering that a columnar or pile foundation is more practiced for the construction of small private structures for household purposes, the financial costs for its construction are minimal.

To do this, you must first mark the territory, set marks for future pillars and drill wells to a given depth. Then, sand and gravel are poured onto the bottom of the well, rammed and equipped with a vertical reinforcing belt.

After all the preparatory work, the wells are poured with concrete and left to dry for several weeks. Instead of concrete, aerated concrete can be used, only in such cases it is necessary to initially provide for good waterproofing of rectangular pillars.

To properly make the foundation, you need to carefully study the options for types of construction and their features. The construction of the underground part is carried out taking into account the following requirements:

• economic expediency;
• reliability;
• strength;
• durability;
• sustainability.

Before starting construction work, a soil survey should be carried out. Choosing the right type of foundation is influenced by total weight houses, soil strength indicators and groundwater level. Carefully made and built in compliance with the technology, the foundation will last a long time and will not cause problems during operation.

You should start with pits or drilling. The main goal during this event is to find out what soils are located on the site, as well as to find out the level of groundwater. The foundation must be laid in compliance with the rule: the sole mark must be at least 50 cm above the level of the water horizon.

How to do a soil survey? For this, two methods are used:

• excerpt of pits (deep pits, dimensions in plan are usually 1x2 m);
• manual drilling.

In the first case, consider the soil on the walls of the pit. They also check to see if water has come from the bottom. In the second variant, the soil on the tool blades is examined.

After you have determined what kind of soil is available on the site, you will need to find its strength indicators. This can be done using special tables.

Table of bearing capacity for different types of soil

The cost of laying the foundation for a house can be up to 30% of the estimate for the entire building. To avoid cost overruns, you need to perform a calculation that will allow you to find the optimal design parameters that will simultaneously guarantee minimum costs, strength and reliability. For your convenience, you can use the online calculation.

Foundation types

Do-it-yourself foundation construction involves the use of several technologies:

• poles;
• piles;
• ribbon;
• plate;
• combined options.

Pillars have a low bearing capacity. Perhaps the device of monolithic pillars or their assembly of compact concrete blocks. Both options are great for do-it-yourself work.

There are three types of pile foundation for a house:

• driving (not recommended for private buildings due to the need to involve equipment);
• bored (suitable for the construction of a brick or concrete house);
• screw (ideal for light wooden buildings).

Piles allow you to reduce the amount of earthwork. There is no need to dig trenches or a pit, to take out a large amount of soil outside the site. Thanks to this quality, this type of foundation is a very economical choice. The main disadvantage will be the impossibility of equipping a basement or underground for utilities. The basement of the building in this case is covered with decorative materials.

Another advantage of piles is the possibility of using them in a swampy area. Even if the groundwater level is located close to the earth's surface, the supports provide the necessary bearing capacity.

The next option is tape. It can be made monolithic or from blocks. The second option is rational to use for mass construction. The strip foundation happens:

• recessed (for buildings with a basement, brick and concrete structures);
• shallow (for wooden and frame houses);
• shallow (technology for pouring the foundation for small buildings on a solid foundation).

Before making a tape, it is worth checking the groundwater level and observing the rule that the sole cannot be closer than 50 cm to the groundwater horizon. Otherwise, there is a high probability of flooding the basement, reducing the bearing capacity of the base and destroying the materials of the supporting part of the building.

What to do with high GWL? If the structure is made independently of brick or stone, screw piles will not work, and for bored piles, a dewatering will be required. An excellent option would be to fill the slab foundation. In this case, a non-buried or slightly buried foundation is made. The thickness of the plate is assigned depending on the load, on average 300-400 mm.

How to pour the foundation under the house

A monolithic type of foundation is the best option for private housing construction. In this case, laying can significantly save on transportation and installation of structures. No need to hire a crane to install elements in the design position or KamAZ to transport concrete blocks and slabs.

Monolithic foundations can be made from prefabricated concrete or you can mix the solution yourself with a concrete mixer. The first option is recommended. The fact is that it is very difficult to strictly observe the proportions of the composition in artisanal conditions. For factory concrete, such a guarantor will be a passport, which indicates the verified indicators of the material.

To make the material yourself, you will need to prepare clean water, cement, sand and crushed stone (or gravel). They are mixed with each other strictly observing the proportions, which depend on what brand of concrete you need to get. If you add a little more sand or gravel to the composition than required, the strength of the supporting part of the building will suffer.

Table of proportions for the preparation of concrete

To properly pour the foundation, you need to familiarize yourself with the basic rules of concreting:

• Concrete must be poured at one time with time intervals up to 1.5 hours. If you take long breaks in work, the mortar sets and concreting seams are formed, which weaken the structure. The technology allows you to make horizontal seams when absolutely necessary. It is unacceptable to arrange a monolithic foundation with vertical seams, since in this case the support of the house will not be able to resist soil deformations.
• The class of concrete is selected depending on the type of bearing. For a columnar or pile foundation, class B 15 is sufficient. For a tape, grades from B 15 to B 22.5 are needed. Building the foundation of a house using slab technology requires concrete grades B 22.5 or B 25.
• After pouring, the material should gain strength. On average, it takes 28 days. It is possible to continue construction work after the construction has gained 70% of branded strength.
• It is best to work in warm, dry weather. The ideal average daily temperature for concrete hardening is +25°C. At temperatures below +5°C, the material practically does not harden. For normal hardening in this case, special additives and heating are used.
• Within 1-2 weeks after pouring, concrete should be maintained. It consists in wetting the surface with water.
• For independent mixing of the mixture, cement, sand, crushed stone (gravel) and clean water will be required. The proportions depend on the strength class. From the factory, the material is delivered by a concrete mixer - it allows you to extend the life of the solution and deliver it over relatively long distances.

How to fill the foundation correctly? In general, the work is performed in the following order:

1. installation of formwork and reinforcement cage;
2. laying waterproofing material in the formwork;
3. pouring concrete;
4. its sealing by vibrating or bayoneting;
5. curing;
6. stripping work (if necessary).

For quick work with a concrete mixer, it is recommended to order a concrete pump. This technique is usually ready to provide concrete manufacturers. In this case, it is required to use a concrete mixture of grades P3 or P4 in terms of mobility. Otherwise, the technique breaks down.

Step-by-step instructions for pouring a strip foundation

Concreting is considered on the example of a monolithic tape. To erect the supporting part of the building, it is necessary to mark the construction site. To do this, use a cast-off and a construction cord. You need to show the edges of the tape.

Cast-off device

After marking, soil development is carried out. In the absence of a basement, it is enough to dig a trench. At its bottom you need to make a sand cushion. It performs several functions:

• ground leveling;
• prevention of frost heaving;

The edges of the trench should go exactly along the cord

The next step is the installation of formwork. In this capacity, the material included in the estimate is used: boards (removable type) or expanded polystyrene (non-removable). The second option performs the function not only of a form for pouring concrete, but also of warming the underground part of the building. When installing the formwork, I raise the base to the desired height.

Next, reinforcing cages are mounted. In the tape type, the working rods are located horizontally. They take bending loads. Read more about this in the article "Reinforcement of the strip foundation".

An example of placing a reinforcing frame in a strip foundation

When ordering concrete from the plant on time, it is necessary to provide convenient access to the construction site. Otherwise, the equipment will not be able to reach the site.

Pouring concrete

It will take several people to fill. After laying the mixture, it must be compacted. This can be done with internal vibrators or a conventional rebar (bayonet). The task is to remove air bubbles, which, after solidification, will become a weak point in the structure. There may be cracks here.

The first stage of concrete care is the preservation of moisture in it. If the material dries too quickly, surface cracks will appear. The structure must be covered with burlap or polyethylene. Once every few hours, it is moistened with clean water. This continues for a week.

The film maintains the required humidity conditions during curing

Do not assume that only professionals can pour concrete. But you can not be careless about this process.

Building a house from scratch on your own is a difficult task, but doable. Careful calculations, competent selection of building materials and high-quality implementation of each process will help to cope without the involvement of specialists. The most important stage is laying the foundation, because the durability and reliability of any building depends on the strength of the foundation. It will take about 2-3 months to make a foundation for a house with your own hands.

Do-it-yourself foundation for a house

Foundation design

For the construction of residential buildings, a strip foundation is most often used. It can be shallow, if the house is one-story and small area, or standard - laid at a depth of 1.8-2 m. The width of the base tape is usually 40 cm, but can be increased depending on the specific load of the building. When designing a house, you should immediately take into account possible extensions and arrangement of basements and semi-basements. The presence of a common base will greatly simplify the installation of a veranda or other structures that may be needed later.

Foundation design

In order not to make a mistake with the base parameters, you need to carefully calculate the total load per square meter of soil and compare it with the allowable values.

Strip foundation

When calculating the load, the following factors are taken into account:

• material for building walls;
• type of thermal insulation;
• type of roofing;
• number of floors of the house;
• type of soil on the site;
• ground water level;
• region;
• snow and wind loads.

  Cross section of the strip foundation

Calculations are made using special tables, for each factor separately. After that, all loads are summed up, which determines the depth of the foundation in this area and the allowable width of the base sole.

Base marking

Foundation layout

To mark the site for the foundation, you will need pegs, a strong thin rope and a tape measure. First, everything that can interfere with the marking is removed - stones, bushes, dry stumps, and so on. They determine the line of the facade of the house relative to the site and mark it with a rope stretched between the pegs. The distance from one beacon to another should be 30-40 cm more than the width of the facade. The location of the corners of the house is marked on the rope, and 2 perpendicular lines are drawn through these points, slightly longer than the length of the side walls.

Plot marking

Now measure the distance from the corner of the facade to the corner of the back wall and mark the points on both lines, and then pull another rope, parallel to the first. The intersections of the ropes form the corners of the building, and it is from these points that you need to measure the diagonals of the resulting rectangle. If the diagonals are equal, the markup is correct. After that, the internal borders of the foundation tape are marked, stepping back from the marking lines 40 cm inside the perimeter. The pegs should be located outside the perimeter - this will allow you to more accurately indicate the corners of the base. The last to outline the internal load-bearing walls, the base for the veranda or porch.

Trench preparation

When the markup is ready, they begin to dig trenches under the foundation. This can be done with shovels or with the help of special equipment, which will be many times faster and more convenient. For a shallow foundation, the depth of the trenches is 60-70 cm, for a conventional foundation - from 1.8 m, depending on the level of soil freezing. The bottom of the trench should be at least 20 cm below this level. Depth is measured from the lowest marking point.

Trench preparation

The walls of the trenches must be leveled vertically, if the soil crumbles, props are installed. After excavation, the bottom must be checked relative to the horizontal, all irregularities are cut off with a shovel, excess soil is removed. The location and width of the trenches must be fully consistent with the project. The next stage is the installation of a sand and gravel cushion, designed to reduce the load from the building on the soil base.

The device of the sand and gravel layer has the following order:

• the bottom of the trenches around the perimeter is covered with a thin layer of coarse-grained river sand;
• spill sand with water and carefully tamp;
• pour another layer of sand and compact again;
• fine gravel is poured and leveled with a layer of 15 cm;
• tamp the surface.

For a shallow foundation, the inner surface of the trenches is lined with geotextile before filling with sand. This material protects the sand cushion from erosion by groundwater and siltation.

Formwork installation

The foundation of a residential building should rise above the ground by at least 15 cm. In flooded areas, the height of the above-ground part of the base can reach 50-70 cm. The formwork is assembled taking into account the required height, using improvised materials.

Foundation formwork installation

When installing formwork, you will need:

• edged boards with a thickness of 2 cm or plywood sheets;
• polyethylene film;
• roulette;
• screws or nails;
• hammer and screwdriver;
• bars for spacers.

  Strip foundation formwork

The boards are fastened into rectangular shields, secured with transverse bars from the outside. Self-tapping screws are screwed in from the inside to make it easier to dismantle the formwork. For the same reason, it is recommended to use self-tapping screws, not nails. When assembling, you should consider the location of the sewer holes and make cutouts of the appropriate diameter in the boards. In conclusion, the shields are upholstered with a film that will not allow the tree to absorb water from the solution.

Formwork is installed in parts on both sides of the trenches, and then reinforced with transverse bars every half a meter. The shields are set strictly vertically, maintaining the same distance between opposite sides along the entire length of the perimeter. Outside, the formwork is supported with struts from a bar. There should be no gaps between the lower edge of the shields and the upper edge of the trenches, otherwise the solution will flow out.

Reinforcing frame installation

Reinforcing frame installation

The presence of a reinforcing frame in the thickness of the foundation allows you to strengthen the base and extend its service life several times. For the manufacture of the frame, steel reinforcement with a cross section of 10-16 mm is usually used. It is very important to properly tie the rods in order to distribute the load evenly over the entire area.

Strip foundation reinforcement

For work you will additionally need:

• knitting wire;
• building level;
• Bulgarian;
• cutting plastic pipes;
• roulette.

The reinforcement is cut with a grinder along the length and width of the trenches, after which a lattice with cells from 30 cm is knitted from it. To do this, 4-5 longitudinal rods are fastened with transverse segments every 30 cm.

Foundation reinforcement

It is categorically not recommended to use welding for the connection, since it weakens the attachment points and contributes to the corrosion of the rods. The frame must be voluminous, so horizontal gratings are placed at 3-4 levels, tied with vertical bars.

Additional fastenings should be made at each corner of the foundation and at the intersections of load-bearing internal walls. You can lower the frame into the trenches in parts, and already inside tie them together. To avoid corrosion as much as possible, the reinforcement cannot be laid directly on the sand: they take an old plastic pipe, cut it into rings 4-5 cm wide and put it under the grate in the corners and every 50-60 cm along the trenches. Between the side walls and the edges of the frame, you need to leave about 5 cm, the same applies to the upper edge of the reinforcement.

Reinforcing frame installation

When the grate is fixed inside the formwork, the level of concrete pouring is indicated on the inside of the shields. You can do this with the help of a fishing line: small carnations are stuffed at the ends of the formwork and a fishing line stretched strictly horizontally is fixed on them. It should be located 5 cm above the edges of the reinforcement grid and run along the entire perimeter at the same horizontal level.

Pouring concrete mortar

Pouring concrete mortar

It is recommended to pour the solution at a time, but not by the total mass, but in layers. Each layer should be no thicker than 20 cm; this will evenly distribute it between the cells of the reinforcement and reduce the number of air voids. For the manufacture of the mixture, cement M400 or M500, fine crushed stone and coarse-grained river sand are taken.

Foundation pouring

It is very important to correctly observe the proportions during mixing, otherwise the quality of the solution will be below normal. For 1 bucket of cement, 3 buckets of sifted sand and 5 buckets of crushed stone are required. Water should be taken about half of the total volume, add it in portions so as not to overdo it. The solution should not be too liquid or too thick: high-quality concrete has a uniform consistency, when the shovel is turned over, it slowly slides off with a total mass.

After pouring the first portion, the solution is leveled with a shovel and pierced along the entire length of the trenches with a piece of reinforcement to release the air that has accumulated in the solution during kneading. It is very effective to compact concrete with a vibrator, it increases the strength of the monolith several times. In the same way, the remaining layers are poured until the surface of the concrete is level with the stretched fishing line. The formwork is tapped with a hammer, after which the top of the solution is leveled with a rule or trowel.

It takes about a month to strengthen the foundation

It takes about a month to strengthen the foundation. To prevent the surface from cracking, it is constantly moistened and covered with polyethylene from rain. In hot weather, concrete should also be covered from direct sunlight to avoid cracking. Formwork can be dismantled 10-15 days after pouring, and construction work can be continued after 28-30 days.

Video - Do-it-yourself foundation for a house

The basis of any structure is the foundation. The stronger and more correctly it is installed, the longer any building will last.

But to make a quality foundation, you need to spend a lot of money. The third part of the cost of a building is the average price of a good foundation.

Therefore, many people want to know how to make a foundation with their own hands to save the budget.

First you need to choose the type of foundation, because there are several types of them: strip foundation, columnar, pile and slab options. How they differ from each other, we will describe below.

Strip foundation

The most versatile and commonly used type of building foundation is strip foundation. It cannot be used only in permafrost and for structures “on the water”.

The essence of the foundation is a closed strip - the base, stretching along the perimeter of the building and in place of the load-bearing internal walls. The photo of the foundation clearly shows that the thickness of the strip should be the same in all areas.

Such a foundation is suitable for any building and allows you to build a high-quality basement or basement.

Summing up housing communications at the base can be located as convenient as possible for their operation.

The main disadvantage of this type of foundation is a large amount of earthworks and building materials.

Column Foundation

For small buildings, in order to save materials, it is recommended to use a columnar foundation. It allows you to put a high-quality foundation for a light building with less time and effort.

The foundation for the house represents the pillars at the points of maximum load of the building (corners, in long sections with a calculated step, under load-bearing walls).

You can build supports from brick, concrete, or even wood (only rot-resistant - larch for example). The depth for the pillars is chosen taking into account the material and type of soil.

After installing all the supports, you need to tie them into a single system, for greater strength.

The disadvantages of the foundation include the impossibility of establishing a basement. The base is not suitable for heavy buildings, unstable soils also preclude its use.

pile foundation

The foundation of a stilt house looks like a pier foundation, but it is not. The main difference is the depth of the supports. Due to its small diameter compared to the pillars, the pits for piles are not dug, but drilled. This allows you to install supports to a greater depth and dig them into more stable rocks.

Otherwise, the technology for arranging and tying the supports is identical to the columnar foundation.

The main disadvantage of this foundation is the use of special equipment. Recently, however, piles with a screw at the end have begun to appear, which allows them to be screwed into the rock like a self-tapping screw. This is what made piles accessible to the layman.

slab foundation

One of the most rarely used types of foundation. Reinforced slabs are more commonly used for roads and boulevards, but some people also use them as a base for a house.

To create it, a gravel-sand cushion is first poured, after which reinforcement is placed and the foundation is poured. It turns out a "floating" base under the house.

The advantage of such a basis is independence from the type of soil and its freezing in winter.

But there are much more disadvantages: this is the impossibility of creating a basement, the difficulty of laying down communications, the high consumption of materials, the possibility of building only on flat terrain.

Now we will tell in detail about the creation of a strip foundation, as the most common and versatile in construction.

Foundation construction plan

To build a reliable and strong foundation, a lot of calculations will be required. Knowing the future dimensions of the building, you need to calculate the depth of the foundation and its width.

And here we will make an important clarification. It is best for a specialist to make an independent calculation of these parameters. The fact is that it depends on the correctly calculated depth and width of the base whether the foundation of the future building will withstand or not, and therefore your life.

There will be a lot of nuances in the calculation, but only professionals know them. For small buildings, if you decide to do without calculations, the depth of the building will be small, and the width is a multiple of 100 mm.

Foundation construction step by step instructions

• Mark out the territory.
• Carry out earthworks (dig trenches).
• Create a cushion of sand and gravel.
• Make formwork for the foundation.
• Lay the future foundation with a reinforcement belt.
• Provide ventilation (if necessary) using pipe sections.
• Pour concrete.
• Level the surface until dry.
• After a week, remove the formwork.
• After another 3 weeks, the concrete will completely harden and waterproofing can be done using roofing material and hot bitumen.
• Lay a plinth on top of the concrete with a brick and make waterproofing.

The foundation is ready!

DIY foundation photo

There are many types of foundations for the construction of private low-rise buildings. But most often, under domestic cottages, an option is set up in the form of reinforced concrete tape under load-bearing walls. After all, to make a strip foundation with your own hands, you only need to have minimal skills in mixing concrete and follow the instructions. The technology for arranging such a foundation is simple, which is why it is chosen so often for independent execution.

1. What it is?
2. Species and subspecies
3. Advantages and disadvantages
4. Step-by-step instruction
5. Use in construction

What it is?

Structurally, a strip foundation is a reinforced concrete structure created along the perimeter of the future structure to redistribute the load on the ground. A similar support is used for the construction of residential buildings, garages, outbuildings, baths, garages and even fences. It's not difficult to make it yourself.

This is how he looks

However, when building such a foundation, it is extremely important to adhere to certain rules and recommendations. If the technology for manufacturing the strip foundation is not followed, the durability of the supporting structure itself and the building on it can be forgotten. They won't last long.

Seasonal heaving of soils, the effect of moisture on concrete without waterproofing, incorrectly calculated loads - there are many reasons for the destruction of the strip base on which the house already stands. All of them must be foreseen and taken into account in advance, otherwise a damaged or completely destroyed structure will have to be rebuilt.

Types and types of foundation

According to the depth of laying, it is MZLF (shallow) and simply buried. In the first case, the concrete belt for a low-rise building is buried only 200–400 mm into the ground, and in the second case, it is buried up to one and a half meters (below the ground freezing level).

If the soils at the construction site are rocky, and the groundwater is deep, then it is better to choose a cheap and shallow concrete option, small in volume. On heaving, high groundwater levels and sandy areas for the house, you will have to make a more powerful and expensive support. Often, the estimate for a similar basis for a dwelling is such that you generally have to choose a different type of foundation.

Scheme of walls with MZLF

Structurally, the tape reinforced concrete base is:

Monolithic;

The first type is performed by pouring a reinforced concrete belt. The second option is laid out from special factory-made foundation blocks (FBS) or bricks.

Pros and cons of strip foundation

It has three undoubted advantages

Extreme simplicity of the device - any novice builder can handle pouring concrete and laying blocks (there is a step-by-step instruction - to build everything correctly, you just need to follow it step by step);

Versatility - on such bases you can put brick, foam concrete and frame houses, as well as cottages made of timber, ordinary or rounded logs;

The ability to withstand heavy loads both from below the ground and from above from the weight of the cottage and everything in it.

A reinforced concrete strip base will last for many years, even if not light aerated concrete blocks, but heavy solid bricks are taken to build the walls of the house. In terms of cost, it is second only to screw piles, but in most cases it surpasses them in reliability.

Among the disadvantages of such a foundation are:

Mandatory thorough analysis of soils at the construction site;

The need to use lifting equipment (in the case of using FBS);

Long-term curing of concrete for at least 3 weeks (when choosing a monolithic option);

The impossibility of bookmarking on strongly heaving and watered soils.

Step-by-step instructions - do-it-yourself foundation

The thickness and height of the tape of the base under consideration, as well as the depth of its laying, are selected based on the analysis of the soil, the climatic conditions of the area and the number of storeys of the house being built. Without knowledge in this area, it is better to entrust this design stage to a professional. There are many nuances and requirements of GOSTs that must be observed.

But it is quite possible to create a support for your house according to an already finished project on your own. But in order to avoid mistakes, it is best to make the strip foundation yourself with the step-by-step instructions given below. It describes all the details of building a similar design for a typical one-story cottage.

Stages of work

The first stage is marking and earthworks. Regardless of the depth of laying, the sole must rest on solid layers of soil. It can be clays, sandy loams, stony layers or loams. Usually they are hidden under the turf and layers of ordinary earth. All this will have to be torn down and removed before starting to build the foundation of the house.

We prepare the site, distribute the main materials: fittings, insulation, formwork boards

To mark the site, you will need pegs, a tape measure and twine. If the soil is dense, then excellent formwork will be obtained from the walls of the dug trench. It will only be necessary to increase it then from above. If the soil is loose and constantly crumbling, then the trench will have to be dug a little more in width so that formwork boards can be placed inside the pit.

The second stage is the preparation of the pillow. The bottom of the excavated trench is leveled with sand and fine gravel. This sand and gravel layer should be carefully compacted, pouring water as it is filled. In height, it should turn out within 10–30 cm. This pillow serves to redistribute and reduce point loads on the strip foundation from below during seasonal swelling of the soil.

You can put insulation on top of the pillow - this will avoid heaving from freezing of the soil

The third stage is the setting of the formwork. Here you will need bars with a cross section of 30 to 40 mm and boards 15–20 mm thick or laminated chipboard. The formwork created for the concrete foundation of the house will subsequently have to withstand a considerable mass of concrete poured into it. Make it strong and reliable. If, after filling with a concrete mixture, it collapses, then everything will have to be started anew.

We expose the formwork from the boards

If the groundwater at the construction site is high, then reinforced concrete will require waterproofing. From above, at the level of the basement of the house, it is usually coated. And to protect that part of the base that remains in the ground, a roofing material should be laid in a trench on the sides and at the bottom. It will reliably protect concrete from excess moisture in the soil at the stage of its solidification and after.

The fourth stage is the laying of reinforcement. For reinforcement, steel rods with a cross section of 14–16 mm and a thin dressing wire are usually used. You can also fasten the reinforcement by electric welding. But in this case, experience with a welding machine and he himself is necessary. Plus, when performing welding, one must be prepared for the appearance of metal corrosion in the future.

We knit reinforcement

Reinforcement knitting option

Inside the trench, as a result, a frame of reinforcement with cells of 25–30 cm should be formed. Moreover, it fits in such a way that the steel is covered from all sides with poured concrete. Otherwise, the metal will inevitably begin to rust, then the house will definitely not stand idle for a long time.

This is what the formwork should look like before pouring

Leave a space of 5 cm between the insulation and the reinforcement

The fifth stage is pouring concrete or laying out FBS. If it is decided to equip the foundation for the house being built using block technology, then this greatly speeds up the process of its construction. Here you do not have to make formwork and wait almost a month until the concrete setting is completed.

However, reliance on foundation blocks will cost more than a monolithic counterpart. Plus, they will have to dig a larger trench in width. To distribute loads for the bottom row, FBS masonry is made with an expanding base.

If a monolithic option is chosen for the support device, concrete should be poured immediately over the entire surface. No breaks in length and no layers in height. A monolith is a monolith. The house must be on a solid foundation.

Nails can mark the border of the pour in the formwork

When self-preparing the concrete mix, it is necessary to mix cement, sand and crushed stone in proportions of 1: 3: 3. But it is better to initially order a ready-made solution with the M300 brand and higher.

We fill

We help with a shovel and trowel to evenly distribute the concrete

Pouring process

When pouring concrete, it is extremely important to ensure that no voids form inside it. There are special vibrators for compaction. However, you can also use a piece of reinforcement to pierce the filled mass and release air from it.

We pass the vibrator over the poured concrete to eliminate voids

Foundation pouring completed

The sixth stage is waterproofing and blind area. It is allowed to start waterproofing work 3-4 days after pouring concrete. It takes about three weeks to complete its setting. But you can already begin to process with mastic, even if not completely frozen, the strip foundation for the house.

We are waiting for solidification

Also, around the entire perimeter of the building, you will need to make a blind area to drain rainwater away from its walls.

Finished foundation with basement rows of bricks

Use for building a house

Such a support can easily withstand private houses two or three floors high. To build a cottage on it, you can choose glued beams, logs, foam blocks or ceramic blocks. It is only necessary to correctly examine the soil and correctly calculate all the loads. At the end, the foundation will not hurt to veneer for additional protection from the weather. For this, natural stone or clinker tiles for the facade are ideal. But you can also choose an easier-to-install and inexpensive corrugated board or siding.