We design heating in a private house with our own hands. Water heating in a private house: rules, norms and organization options. Optimal wiring diagram for self-assembly
The unavailability of central heating makes you think about installation. With its help, you can create comfortable conditions inside the building at any time of the year. Most choose water heating of a private house. Do-it-yourself schemes of the most complex circuits can be mounted by almost everyone. We offer you to get acquainted with the distinctive features of water heating and the nuances of installation work.
The disadvantages of water heating include:
- Low efficiency.
- Uneven heating of the coolant in the pipeline.
- The need to install an expansion tank.
The disadvantages of water include:
- freezing at zero temperature;
- an increase in volume when the state of aggregation changes, which can cause a pipeline rupture;
- salt content, which leads to the appearance of sediment on the inner surface.
Attention! To prevent the formation of deposits on the inner surface, only distilled water should be poured into the heating circuit.
Often used instead of water. Such substances are not afraid of low temperatures, but they cannot always be used in a traditional water heating system. They are toxic and can have a negative impact on human health when the system is depressurized.
Norms and requirements for autonomous heating
Requirements for the heating system are set out in SNiP 2.04.05-91. The standards contained in this document are designed to create a comfortable microclimate. Some recommendations are given in SNiP 31-02, which regulates the rules for the construction of single-family houses.
The requirements for the used . Its temperature should be in the range + 60 ÷ 80ºС. The maximum heating is limited to +90ºС. At the same time, the outer surface of the heating elements, access to which is not limited in any way, should not heat up above + 70ºС.
When deciding how to make heating in a private house, you should pay attention to the possible ways of installing a heating system. Preference may be given to:
- open. The pipeline is laid along building structures. Clamps and clips are used for fastening. Are used . The choice in favor of polymer products is made only if it is possible to protect them from mechanical and / or thermal effects;
- Hidden. The laying of the water circuit is carried out in specially prepared channels and strobes hidden behind various ones. Relevant for buildings that are planned to operate for at least 20 years. In this case, the service life of the pipes should exceed 40 years.
Attention! The open laying method is a priority.
Features of the water heating system
Such a system became a direct continuation of . It allows you to heat several rooms at the same time, while a traditional stove cannot cope with this task. To do this, heating devices are installed in each room, the layout of which is worked out for each private house individually.
The liquid coolant, heated in the boiler to the desired temperature, enters the pipeline. Moving through the pipes, it begins to give up its heat to the heaters, which can be either a heating circuit or a circuit. The heaters, in turn, transfer heat to the surrounding space. The cooled coolant is returned back to the boiler, heated to a predetermined temperature, and the cycle is repeated. Thanks to the continuous movement of the coolant through labor, it is possible to maintain the temperature in a private house at a comfortable level.
The first parameter can be calculated as follows: the power of the system is divided by the temperature difference of the coolant at the inlet and outlet and the heat capacity of the water. The pressure is chosen in such a way as to ensure the normal flow of the coolant at each point. Especially for our readers, we have prepared convenient calculators for calculating the performance and pressure of the circulation pump.
Calculator for calculating the performance of the circulation pump
Everyone who has dealt with the construction of a private house knows how important it is to correctly design, calculate and install a heating system. With regards to natural circulation - the wrong slope, and it will cease to function at the slightest air. Speaking of forced - you need the correct calculation of the parameters of the circulation pump. Today's article is useful to those who are just planning water heating of a private house with their own hands. We will consider the schemes of systems and the nuances of work in detail, trying not to “pour” in scientific terms, but to explain in an understandable language.
Read in the article:
Water heating of a private house: the pros and cons of the system
Like any type of heating, water heating has supporters and opponents. But our business is not to take one of the sides, but to carefully deal with all the parameters. We will analyze the advantages of heating a home with water.
| Advantages | disadvantages |
|---|---|
| The heat capacity of water is 4,000 times higher than the same parameter of air - this is a proven physical property | Do-it-yourself heating installation and subsequent operation require more effort than other types of heating |
| Installation and subsequent operation costs are relatively low | Control of the coolant level and periodic revisions of the water heater are required |
| Such heating allows the use of any fuel or electricity as a heater. | If this is the heating of a country house, for the winter period, when the heater is not used, the water is drained. Otherwise, the pipes will defrost (the problem is solved by replacing the water with antifreeze). And if there is no water, then interaction with air leads to accelerated corrosion of metal pipes inside |
| Pipes are laid under the floor or hidden by a stretch (suspended) ceiling |
Which coolant to use: properties of water and antifreeze
The question of which coolant is better is complicated. On the one hand, water heating in a private house does not require costs. If the house is heated in winter, it is used, then the pipes will last for many years. If there is no air in the system, corrosion will not be able to render the pipes unusable. On the other hand, it takes a long time to warm up, but it also takes longer to cool down. And this is a plus.
Expert opinion
HVAC design engineer (heating, ventilation and air conditioning) LLC "ASP North-West"
Ask a specialist“The choice of coolant depends on the degree of insulation of the house. If the thermal insulation is made according to the rules, it is better to use water - it is cheaper. If the dwelling is not properly insulated, you will have to spend money on expensive antifreeze. In this case, when using water, there will be an overrun of fuel or electricity - you need to heat it constantly.”
What are the requirements for autonomous heating
There are few requirements for autonomous water heating systems. We note the availability of the fuel used, the efficiency in operation and the reliability of the system. Compactness is also not in last place. Heating must perform functions with a high percentage of efficiency.
Let's translate into simple language. The fuel used to heat the coolant (water) should be cheaper than other types. It is different for each region. Firewood is more available in one village, coal in another, and natural gas in a third. What are the nuances to consider:
- Economy in operation. We return to the insulation of the walls of the house: there are no heat leaks - fuel savings are evident.
- Reliability of the heating system. If the circulation stops, it takes time to start it. The coolant cools down, and heating leads to an overrun of firewood, gas, coal.
- Compactness. When installing water heating, the "golden mean" is calculated. There is too little coolant - the system will not warm the house. In the opposite case - excessive fuel consumption and slow heating.
The nuances inherent in water heating
Water heating of a dwelling implies the mandatory installation of a heater. It can be an electric boiler, or another device that uses liquid or solid fuel. A circulation pump can be used to move the coolant through the system, but it is not always used.
Good to know! Water heating, unlike electric, maintains heat for some time even when the heater is turned off. When compared with infrared heating, the heat transfer fluid wins, especially in relation to houses without the necessary thermal insulation.
What is a water heating system
Before you make heating in a private house, you should calculate the required amount of material. And it is impossible to do this without knowing what elements the system consists of. There are 5 main components:
- boiler;
- pipes;
- radiators;
- circulation pump (not always);
- expansion tank.
Related article:
Advantages and disadvantages, principle of operation, selection criteria, an overview of the best manufacturers and models, how to make a boiler with your own hands - read in our publication.
The role of the boiler in the heating system of a private house
The boiler is the main node of the system. With its help, the coolant is heated. Boilers are solid fuel (wood, coal, pellets or peat), gas or electric. Gas boilers are considered more economical than others, but even with the current level of gasification, “blue fuel” has not reached every corner of vast Russia.
Important! The boiler, regardless of the type of fuel, requires constant attention and periodic revisions. Only in this case, you can be sure that the heating system will not fail at the wrong time.
Before you install a heating boiler in a private house, you need to calculate the power required to heat the entire area of \u200b\u200bresidential premises. For these purposes, we suggest using the handy calculator below.
Calculator for calculating the required boiler power
No matter how well the house is insulated, in our climatic conditions one cannot do without artificial heating. After all, in any case, there will be heat losses in winter, and they need to be replenished. Residents of apartment buildings don’t have to choose anything in particular, where heating is usually “complete” and there is little that can be changed. But in the private sector, the problems of designing and implementing a heating system are assigned to the homeowner. It is the owner who will be in charge of its management and maintenance. On the one hand, this is a burden: even if specialists are invited, you will have to figure out how to conduct heating in a private house, how the system is completed and functions. But it is also obvious that there is a huge plus, because the developer himself chooses the most suitable option for his conditions: type of fuel, heating device, wiring method.
The principle of operation of the water heating system
There are systems where air acts as a heat carrier, or it is directly heated directly in the premises. We will talk about designs that use a liquid coolant (most often water), since the vast majority of our compatriots prefer them. The principle of operation is quite simple: the boiler heats water, the water moves along a closed loop of pipes, it gives off heat energy to the air in the rooms through the surfaces of the radiators, the water cools down and enters the boiler again - the cycle repeats many times.
Water heating structure
All liquid heating systems have a similar set of elements:
The nature of the circulation of the coolant
The fluid in the heating system can circulate naturally or by force. Both methods have their advantages and disadvantages, their choice significantly affects the functionality of the system:
- Forced circulation is carried out by an electric pump, which is mounted on the return or supply pipe. Increased pressure in a closed system allows you to heat large houses with high quality, including several levels, while the temperature regime will be very easy to regulate.
- Natural circulation (gravitational system) occurs due to the fact that heated and cooled water differ in density. These are open systems with normal pressure, there are no devices dependent on electricity. This option is well suited if the electricity supply in the village is unstable or absent.
Gravity systems are often supplemented with a circulation pump connected via a bypass (in parallel). This is how they get effective universal heating, which will also work in the event of a blackout in the cottage.
Features of installing heating in a private house
Since it is always difficult to conduct heating in a house, it is impossible to start without design. Schemes and plans on paper are only the visible part of the iceberg, the tangible result of the engineer's work. In order for heating to be effective, it is necessary to accurately determine the amount of heat that the house will lose during the winter. Then draft versions of the system are developed and hydraulic calculations are made that will help you choose the right equipment, choose the pipe section and the wiring method. Naturally, specialists should be puzzled by such problems, while the developer can deal with other issues at this time, for example, obtain permits for tapping into a gas main.
A competent calculation will help to rationally distribute the thermal performance of the boiler in all rooms. Indicators of local hydraulic resistance and coolant flow are always taken into account
What you need to connect a gas boiler
The required power of the heating device is determined at the design stage. The boiler must provide enough heat to compensate for its loss through the building envelope. You can focus on the figure of 1 kW of power for every ten square meters of building area in climate middle lane RF. Of course, we are talking about a house with good thermal insulation.
Note! Boilers can provide not only space heating, but also provide hot water for domestic needs. There are two solutions here: buy a double-circuit device, or install an indirect heating storage tank in a system with a single-circuit boiler.
The indirect heating tank does not have heating elements, the water temperature rises due to the heat exchanger coil connected to the heating.
In private houses, if necessary, a separate room is equipped for heating devices - a boiler room, where, in addition to the heat generator, auxiliary elements are also located. This can be especially true if the heating configuration assumes the presence of a floor-standing boiler, which, for normal circulation, in the gravity system, when located on the ground floor, must be installed in the pit. Note that modern wall models are compact and beautiful, they can be installed in any room, for example, in the kitchen.
To connect a gas boiler, you need to take care of connecting it to electrical power and water pipes (cold supply, outgoing DHW branch). Naturally, somewhere nearby there should already be a gas pipe with a tap at the outlet. As for the chimney, it is not at all necessary to lead the pipe through the ceiling to the roof; for turbocharged gas boilers, a coaxial chimney passing through the outer wall can be used.
Note! In the room where the boiler is located, it is necessary to install a gas leak detector.
How pipelines are installed
Pipes connect radiators to boilers, as a rule, we can observe a kind of tree, where the main contour, like a trunk, is made with a large diameter, and thinner pipes for connection extend from it to the radiators. In complex systems, pipes of 3-4 different diameters can be used, which allows the optimal amount of coolant to be supplied to different parts of the system, while saving on materials immediately and on energy during operation.
This diagram shows the gradation of diameters common for private houses.
The choice of material for heating pipes
Pipelines made of metal are good for their strength and stability of linear dimensions when heated. Conventional steel is rarely used in recent times, as it is too susceptible to corrosion damage, and deposits quickly accumulate in such pipes. Stainless steel and copper are an order of magnitude more practical, but developers are understandably scared away by the high cost of materials, as well as the complex technology for assembling such pipelines.
Polymer pipes are much easier to install, largely because of this, polypropylene has become especially popular, which almost all home craftsmen have learned to solder. Cross-linked polyethylene pipes are assembled on press fittings, for this you need to have special expensive equipment, but you can rent it - the technology itself is not complicated. In terms of physical properties, something in between metal and polymer samples is a metal-plastic pipe, which is assembled on threaded fittings.
Plastic pipes are cheaper than metal pipes, they are more durable and have less hydraulic resistance. Among the disadvantages are the greater thermal expansion of polymers, the risk of mechanical damage.
Note! To create heating systems, it is necessary to use polypropylene pipes with internal reinforcement. This can be an additional foil shell (it is cleaned at the edges before soldering), or an inner layer of fiberglass.
Several ways to conduct heating pipes in a cottage
The first thing you have to choose is the presence / absence of a separate supply and return. According to this principle, the following types are distinguished:
- Two-pipe heating has a separate supply and separate return pipeline. Radiators here are easily regulated and do not depend on each other, the system copes well with its tasks in a house of any size.
- Single-pipe heating has only one ring (performs the functions of both return and supply). It is somewhat cheaper, but it is advisable to use it only in small houses, where there are few heating devices. The main consumer drawback of such configurations is that the last radiator is noticeably colder than the first one.
In two-pipe systems, each radiator is fed with a medium of approximately the same temperature.
Heating pipelines can be run both along the floor (for example, in a screed or between lags), and in the area of \u200b\u200bthe ceiling (including in the attic). If the heating is assembled carefully, then the pipes will look good, even if they are laid openly along the walls.
In private houses, horizontal wiring is almost always implemented. Vertical schemes with top filling (the supply pipeline, leaving the boiler, rises and stretches at the top of the building), where there are risers, can be used in cottages on several levels, but they require more capital investments.
Heating appliances in the heating system of a private house
By tradition, we use radiators for heat exchange, which, as a rule, are mounted under the windows. Here they interact with cold air descending from window openings and create a convective movement of air masses.
Depending on the piping method, the efficiency of the radiator will vary.
The larger the surface area of the radiator, the more heat it can give off. Gathering a radiator from a different number of sections, we can make a heater of the required power. But the performance of batteries also depends on the material, for example, aluminum and bimetallic models are considered the most productive.
Note! To regulate heat transfer, radiators are equipped with special devices. They can be controlled manually, but there are also automatic devices that change the flow rate in response to the air temperature in the room.
There are several options for strapping radiators. If the side connection is mainly used if it is necessary to carry out heating in an apartment with risers, then the diagonal and lower connection is more typical for the private sector, where horizontal piping is common. Diagonal strapping has proven itself with large batteries. The lower one is the least efficient among other types, but in closed systems with a circulation pump it works well and, moreover, is the most convenient for installation.
Note! If a single-pipe heating system is chosen, then it will be much more efficient and functional if the radiators are connected in parallel with the pipeline. This is the only way to balance the system.
To implement a parallel connection, a section of the main ring is left, which will allow the coolant to pass even if the taps on the heater are completely closed
You can talk about how to properly conduct heating in a private house for a long time, but still many important nuances will remain in the shadows. Meanwhile, the price of a mistake here is too high, and trifles simply do not exist. That is why we strongly recommend that you make the most of the help of professionals, especially in terms of designing and tying equipment.
Video: do-it-yourself heating scheme for a private house
A high-quality heating system is one of the most important factors for comfortable life support in homes. It is difficult to imagine housing in which there are no heating appliances. Not so long ago, most of the inhabitants of our country used wood-burning stoves to heat their homes. Naturally, in our time of constant progress, such a system has become irrelevant and is increasingly being replaced by more modern gas-fired water heating.
Water heating in a private house based on the principle of circulation coolant through the pipeline and heating radiators. In this case, the movement of water occurs from the main heating element - the boiler through all the nodes of the system, after which the cooled coolant is returned back to the heater for reheating. At the same time, the heating piping scheme is not so complicated and therefore it is possible for independent implementation. But before that, you need to familiarize yourself with the features of the installation work.
Features of the installation of a water heating system
First of all, you need to understand that water heating is based on the laws of physics - the hot coolant rises, and the cooled water flows down. Simply put, the coolant will circulate with greater intensity with a greater temperature difference between the liquid flowing from the boiler and the water returning to the device through the return pipes. The optimal indicator is a temperature difference of 25 ° C. At the same time, certain techniques are used to enhance this effect:
- the boiler should be placed at the lowest point of the heating system approximately 2 meters below the pipes and radiators;
- the riser through which the coolant circulates must be qualitatively insulated;
- the length of the water heating pipes of a house with a natural circulation method should not exceed 30 m;
- in a one-story house, a heating scheme with natural circulation implies the placement of return pipes at a certain angle;
- based on the total length of the pipes of the heating system, their diameter is selected: the longer the pipeline, the larger its diameter.
If we consider two-story buildings, then the scheme of the water heating system of the house involves the installation of a pump. Otherwise, it will not work to heat the upper floor with high quality.
Choosing a heating device
A water heating system can be implemented using a gas boiler, an electrical counterpart, or a solid fuel device. At the same time, gas equipment is considered the most practical and convenient to use. If it is not possible to conduct gas into the house, then an electric boiler or its solid fuel analogue.
If we consider a solid fuel boiler, then its operation is much cheaper than an electric counterpart, since it runs on cheap resources - wood, coal or pellets. Electric heating is ideal for a country house where there is no need to heat the room daily.
The water heating system in small private buildings is not always profitable, since it is often enough to hang several electric heaters. In turn, for large houses, you will need a very powerful electric boiler to heat water, and this may affect the quality of other electrical appliances. In such a situation, it is better to use gas or solid fuel equipment.
Scheme of single-pipe water heating
One-pipe heating system can rightfully be called the simplest and least expensive and therefore it is suitable for DIY installation. Everything is very clear here - the pipeline through which the water will move connects in series all the heating radiators in the house. After the coolant has passed a full circle, it returns to the boiler again and the cycle repeats.
Such a scheme is quite practical, but still there are some nuances in it. The radiators, which are at the maximum distance from the boiler, will be slightly warm, while the nearby radiators will be hot. Simply put, the temperature in the far rooms will be cooler than in the room where the boiler is installed. Naturally, this has its own plus, especially when people who cannot stand the heat live in the house.
Scheme of a two-pipe heating system
A two-pipe heating system can hardly be called light, especially for self-implementation. This heating scheme provides removal of two pipes from the boiler at once. In this case, one pipe is designed to supply hot coolant to the batteries, and the other to return the cooled water back to the boiler. In appearance, this is very similar to single-pipe heating, but only radiators can be located not in series, but in an order convenient for the homeowner.
According to the scheme, one pipe departs from the boiler, through which the hot coolant, according to the laws of physics, will rise. Such a pipe is very often carried out through the attic, where it is convenient to carry out hidden wiring. Simply put, a separate pipe is connected to each radiator. This allows you to maintain the same temperature in each battery.
Also, a two-pipe wiring diagram suggests outlet pipeline installation from each radiator. It is through this pipe that the cooled water will flow back to the boiler. The return line is laid in each room where the battery is installed. Usually the heating return pipe is hidden underground.
To increase the quality of two-pipe water heating, experts recommend installing a distribution manifold - a special device that regulates the water supply to each battery. Structurally, such a device resembles a tube with several side outlets, which are equipped with locking devices at the end, after which there are pipes connecting the boiler with batteries. Thanks to such a system, it becomes possible to control and regulate the temperature parameters in each individual room of the house.
When installing a water heating system with your own hands, you first need to determine its appearance. Today, experts are considering a heating system with natural and forced circulation of the coolant. At the same time, one differs from the other in the presence or absence of a circulation pump. But first, consider the advantages of heating with natural water circulation through pipes and radiators:
- natural heating option is the cheapest;
- such equipment does not require connection to the AC mains;
- any heating boiler can be used in such a system.
If we consider its shortcomings I would like to highlight the following issues:
- low level of efficiency;
- the coolant is unevenly distributed over the batteries;
- in such a system, an expansion tank must be installed;
- obligatory use of a metal pipeline.
Many may have a question, why metal pipes? Everything is very simple, the coolant in such a heating system circulates at a very high temperature, especially near the boiler. Therefore, not all plastic pipes will be able to withstand such thermal loads.
With a circulation pump, everything happens a little differently. This method more efficiently distributes the coolant over the radiators. Also, the use of a pipeline with a small diameter can be attributed to the positive qualities of forced circulation of water. So, if we compare such heating systems, then the diameter of the pipes with natural circulation of the coolant is almost half that when using a circulation pump.
Installation of water heating of a private house
At the first stage, the heating boiler installation. It should be placed on a stand cast from a cement-sand mixture. After that, the boiler exhaust pipe is connected to the central chimney. The junction must be sealed with heat-resistant mastic or clay, which does not crack under the influence of high temperature.
At the next stage, the installation of heating batteries is performed. Their placement should be strictly under the window sills, which allows you to create a thermal barrier that prevents the penetration of cold air through the window cracks. The installation of the radiator itself is quite simple and do-it-yourself. The battery is hung on special brackets fixed in the wall with dowels. But, despite all the apparent simplicity, there are nuances to be taken into account:
- Before starting the installation of radiators, the marking of the walls is carried out. All radiators in a private house should be located at the same level and in a horizontal position so that the coolant circulates freely.
- It is better not to unpack the battery during installation, so as not to damage it during the installation process.
- From the bottom of the battery to the floor surface there must be a gap of at least 70 mm, but not more than 150 mm.
- The heating radiator must be at a distance of 20 mm from the wall.
After battery installation is complete moving on to piping and installation of related nodes.
- Drain pipe with a tap at the end, for removing water from the system. Its installation should take place at the lowest point of the heating system of a private house.
- Expansion tank installation, which is carried out at the highest point of the heating system, but not less than at a height of 3 m from the boiler.
- In the case of a forced heating system, a circulation pump is installed. Specialists recommend making a bypass section of the pipeline, which, in the event of a pump breakdown, will take the load on itself.
- With the help of taps, it is desirable to protect each independent element of the heating system. This will allow, if necessary, to repair any unit without completely draining the coolant.
If the heating scheme provides for the presence of several risers, then in the places where the pipeline is distributed, it is imperative balancing valve installed. First of all, this is necessary to equalize the difference in hydraulic resistance in various branches of the heating system.
What to consider when self-assembly
In addition to the boiler, pipes and radiators, when conducting self-wiring water heating in a private house, you need to prepare related consumables: mounting brackets, adapters, rubber gaskets and other little things that are always needed during installation work related to heating. Plus, to everything, doing the work with your own hands, you need adhere to the following rules:
After all installation work is completed, the heating system is filled with water and trial run is underway. When the radiators warm up and the maximum pressure appears in the system, the pipe connections with batteries and other elements of water heating are checked for leaks. If any defect is found, the heating is turned off, the water is drained, and the breakdown is eliminated.
Having become acquainted with all the subtleties and features of the device of the water heating system, everyone will be able to do its installation in a private house with their own hands. The main thing is that the connection of all components is carried out in accordance with all safety requirements. If gas equipment is installed, then the first start-up of the boiler should be carried out only by a specialist, since gas is an explosive fuel and any errors can lead to serious consequences.
The problem of organizing the heating system of one's own house is one of the key ones during construction, reconstruction, overhaul, etc. Even when buying a ready-made country building, you should pay close attention to this issue. And for this, it is imperative to have an idea about the existing types of heating systems, their advantages and disadvantages, and operational features.
Of all types of heating, water heating remains the leader in popularity - with pipes that transfer the heated liquid coolant from the boiler to radiators, convectors or underfloor heating circuits. Despite the cumbersomeness of such a system, the scale of work during creation, there is no real alternative yet, if assessed according to the joint criteria "price affordability - efficiency - economy". Well, among all water systems, the simplest in execution is single-pipe. How a single-pipe heating system of a private house is planned and installed with your own hands will be discussed in this publication.
What distinguishes a single-pipe heating system
The main feature of a single-pipe heating system is probably already immediately clear from the name itself.
The circulation of the coolant here is organized along one main pipe, which forms a ring that begins and ends in the heating boiler. All heating radiators are connected in series or in parallel to this pipe.
To distinguish externally a single-pipe and two-pipe system is not difficult at all, even just by looking at the heating radiator.
Despite the difference in connecting radiators - all this is a one-pipe system
Despite the variety of battery connection options shown in the figure, all this applies to single-pipe wiring. Options "a" and "b" shows the sequential placement of radiators - the pipe, as it were, passes through them. In options "c" and "d" the batteries are placed parallel to the pipe. But in any case, both the entrance and exit from any radiator "rely" on one common highway.
For clarity, to make it easier to understand, we present a two-pipe wiring diagram:
Always, with any battery insertion scheme, the input to it comes from the supply line, and the output closes to the "return" pipe.
Read more about what it is in a special article on our portal.
Even for those who are inexperienced in creating a heating system, most likely, the main drawback of a single-pipe scheme immediately becomes clear. The coolant heated in the boiler, passing sequentially through the located radiators, cools down, and in each subsequent battery its temperature is lower. This difference will be especially noticeable if we compare the first heat exchange point, located closest to the boiler room, with the very last one in the "chain".
There are certain methods that allow, to a certain extent, to neutralize this drawback - they will be discussed below.
Advantages of a one-pipe system
Be that as it may, the single-pipe scheme of the heating system is quite popular, which is due to its advantages:
- Such wiring requires a minimum amount of material - (we can safely talk about 30 - 40% savings on pipes).
- Based on the first point, the scale of the installation work being carried out is significantly less.
- The wiring diagram is simple, and therefore most owners who have certain skills in plumbing work can cope with the task of self-assembly.
- A single-pipe system is extremely reliable - once properly installed and debugged, it will not require intervention in its work for many years. It does not require any complex adjustment units or equipment.
- Such a system is quite versatile, and if desired, it can be mounted both in a one-story house and at several levels, of course, slightly changing the required equipment and adapting the connection scheme.
One pipe runs along the floor surface - it is not too conspicuous and easy to decorate
- The main pipe always runs along the floor (with the exception of options with risers that will be discussed below). Such an arrangement makes it possible to decorate the pipe without any special costs, for example, by closing it, after appropriate thermal insulation, with a finishing floor covering. And, in the end, one low-lying pipe is not so conspicuous, and it is always easier to hide it than two.
Disadvantages of a single-pipe heating scheme
Single-pipe heating systems were actively used on an industrial scale, in the construction of residential and public buildings. Builders, for sure, were fully satisfied with the ease of installation and economy in terms of material consumption, so the shortcomings of the system faded into the background. But with private construction, the “cons” of a one-pipe system will have to be known and taken into account, since they are quite significant.
- The main thing has already been mentioned - in the most simplified form of wiring it is impossible to achieve equal temperatures of the coolant in all batteries of the circuit. One of the ways out is to gradually increase the number of sections from room to room as you move away from the boiler in order to achieve equal heat transfer by increasing the area of active heat exchange. But at the same time, of course, it will be difficult to talk about saving on materials - radiators can cost much more than pipes.
There are other ways to equalize the temperature - they will be discussed below.
- If a heating system with natural circulation is planned, then difficulties may be encountered in terms of complying with the mandatory required pipe slope. With a single-pipe system, the line is located along the floor, and if the room is spacious enough, or the perimeter of the building is long, then sometimes it is simply impossible to cope with such a task.
Conclusion - a single-pipe system with natural circulation is only suitable for buildings that are compact in plan. Otherwise, the installation of a circulation pump will become mandatory. However, now they are trying to install a pump at every opportunity, and many modern heating boilers already have a built-in circulation unit.
- A single-pipe system completely eliminates the tie-in into it, in addition to heating radiators, the contours of "warm floors". If in the future the owners intend to organize water floor heating in any of the premises, then it is better to immediately install a two-pipe system.
More about - in a special article of our portal:
Wiring diagrams for a single-pipe heating system
The general contour of a single-pipe system is most often located along the outer walls of the premises of the house and runs parallel to the floor (or with the required slope). But the scheme for including heating radiators in this circuit may vary. Consider the possible options - from the simplest to the more complex and effective.
Since the schematic diagram of piping and general equipment does not change, the general numbering of nodes will be preserved from drawing to drawing, indicating only newly appeared elements.
You might be interested in information on how the heating system works
The simplest scheme
BUT. The simplest single-pipe wiring systems:
The numbers in the diagram show:
1- heating boiler. The main supply pipe (pos. 2) goes up from the boiler. The diagram shows a variant of an open-type single-pipe heating system, therefore, an expansion tank (pos. 3) is mounted at the highest point of the wiring.
Prices for different types of heating boilers
heating boilers
If the system operates on the principle of natural circulation, then a starting section is required for single-pipe wiring - the so-called "accelerating collector"(pos. 4). It will prevent stagnation of the coolant in the system and will give an additional impetus to the circulation of fluid through the pipes. The height of this accelerating collector above the first radiator (h 1) is at least one and a half meters.
The heating radiators themselves (pos. 5) in the simplest scheme are installed in series with the lower connection of the input and output from opposite sides. It is clear that when laying the pipe to ensure natural circulation, a slope is observed (it is shown by brown arrows). Moreover, the excess of the last radiator in the chain over the heating boiler (h 2) must be observed. The larger this value, the better, therefore, boiler rooms are often placed in basements or they make an artificial deepening of the floor at the installation site of the device. The maximum allowable value h 2 - 3 meters.
To avoid all these difficulties, the best solution would be to install a pumping unit (pos. 6). It includes the pump itself (pos. 7), a bypass (link) and a system of valves (pos. 8) that allow, if necessary, switching from forced circulation to natural (for example, if power outages are not uncommon in the construction area).
It is necessary to foresee one more point - the possibility of releasing air plugs that can accumulate at the top of the radiators. To do this, batteries are placed air vents(pos. 9).
On the left is Mayevsky's crane. Right - automatic air vent
They can be Mayevsky taps, which are periodically unscrewed to release air. More expensive option - automatic air vents that do not require human intervention.
Mayevsky crane prices
Mayevsky faucet 1/2
Such a scheme for connecting radiators is the most primitive, since all the shortcomings of a single-pipe system affect it to the maximum extent. The last radiators in the circuit will always be much colder than the first ones.
B. The following diagram provides only one improvement - the radiators are connected diagonally (shown by purple arrows).
Such passage of the coolant through the battery contributes to the maximum return of thermal energy and more uniform heating of all sections. But the temperature difference in the first and last radiator will obviously be even higher. In addition, such a scheme for inserting batteries significantly reduces the possibility of natural circulation of the coolant, and with a long common circuit it will become impossible at all. This means that it will not be possible to do without a circulation unit.
AT. For such wiring, an open or closed type system with forced circulation is more suitable. The diagram below shows a variant with a sealed expansion tank.
The pump in this case is embedded directly into the main pipe (although the previously indicated piping scheme may also be preserved). The main difference is the expansion tank of the membrane type (pos. 10), which is usually installed on the "return" near the boiler (there is no regulation here - the optimal place is chosen in terms of layout and ease of use). And the second mandatory element is the “safety group” (pos. 11), consisting of a safety valve, designed for a certain value of the maximum pressure in the system, automatic air vent and a visual control device - a manometer.
Collected in one building "security group"
In the future, when considering the schemes, only a closed system with forced circulation will be shown. This is done only in order not to overload the drawings with lines. But in general, the choice remains the same for the owner of the house - a closed or open expansion tank, and the circulation is natural, forced or combined.
All three of the above schemes have one common important drawback. It lies in the fact that in the event of failure and emergency dismantling of any of the radiators, the system becomes temporarily completely inoperative, as the circuit breaks.
Therefore, if a decision has already been made to mount a single-pipe heating system, then Leningradka will be the best choice, which allows you to get away from many characteristic shortcomings and provides more opportunities in terms of adjustments.
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A modernized version of a single-pipe heating system - Leningradka
Where this well-established name, "Leningradka" came from, is not known for certain. Perhaps it is in northern capital Research Institute specialists developed technical regulations for such a heating system. It is possible that at the beginning of large-scale residential construction in the country, some Leningrad construction organizations were the first to put such a scheme on stream. Be that as it may, it was Leningradka that was designed for mass construction, both low-rise and high-rise, and its design, while being economical in terms of material consumption and with ease of installation, makes it possible to use thermal energy quite efficiently in large heating circuits .
The main difference between Leningradka is that the input and output on each of the radiators are connected by a jumper - a bypass. Or another option - taps are made from the main pipe to the inlet and outlet of each of the batteries.
Bypass prices
Schematic diagram of "Leningradka" is shown in the figure:
The basic scheme of a single-pipe system - "Leningrad"
The presence of a bypass (pos. 12) allows you to more evenly distribute heat over radiators, to varying degrees removed from the heating boiler. Even if the coolant current is interrupted through any battery (for example, there is a blockage or an air lock has formed), the system will still be operational.
The presented diagram shows the simplest version of the "Leningrad", without equipping with any adjustment devices. It was often used before, and experienced craftsmen already knew what approximately bypass diameter is required on a particular battery in order to maximally equalize the temperature at all points. So, a very slight increase in the number of pipes allows you to reduce the total number of battery sections in rooms remote from the boiler room.
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The same option, but with a diagonal tie-in of the batteries, which improves their overall heat transfer:
But that's not all. Firstly, it is very difficult to independently calculate the diameter of the jumper for each battery. And secondly, such a scheme does not yet provide for the possibility of dismantling any individual radiator without violating the closure of the general circuit. Therefore, it is best to use the modernized modification of the "Leningrad":
Modernized scheme - with taps and control valves
In this version, each radiator is surrounded by taps on both sides (pos. 13). At any time, you can "cut off" the battery from the common pipe - for example, when the room for some reason temporarily does not need heating, or if it becomes necessary to dismantle it for repair or replacement. The operation of the system will not be affected in any way.
These taps, by and large, can also be used to adjust the heating of a particular radiator, increasing or decreasing the coolant current.
But it would be wiser to install ball valves here, which are designed primarily to work in two positions - “open” or “closed”. And for adjustment, a balancing needle valve mounted on the bypass (pos. 14) will serve.
The same scheme - with a diagonal connection:
And here is a similar connection - in the photo:
The radiator is connected to the "Leningrad"
- Blue arrows - shut-off ball valves at the inlet and outlet of the radiator.
- Green arrow - balancing valve.
Such a modernized Leningradka system makes it possible, if necessary, to mount the system not with a single looped circuit, but with dedicated sections - branches. For example, this is how you can organize wiring in a two-story building, or in a house that has "wings" or side extensions.
"Leningradka" with an additional branch circuit
In this case, a branch is made from the main pipe (pos. 16), going to an additional heating circuit, and a tie-in into the return pipe (pos. 17). And on the "return" of the additional circuit (pos. 15), it is advisable to install another needle regulating valve (pos. 18), with which you can achieve a balance in the joint operation of both branches.
For a two-story house, another option is possible. If the layout of the premises in general terms coincides, then it will be rational to use a system of vertical risers.
19 - interfloor overlap.
20 - supply pipe from the boiler.
21 - "return" pipe.
22 - risers, which include radiators according to the "Leningrad" scheme with an adjustable bypass.
Here, however, there is one interesting point. Each drain itself is organized as a one-pipe system (highlighted in green). But if we consider the system as a whole, then the risers are already included in a two-pipe system - each of them is connected in parallel to the supply pipe and to the return pipe (highlighted in brown). Thus, there is a harmonious combination of the advantages of both systems.
Video: Leningradka heating system
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Heating system planning
When conducting advance planning Any heating system must take into account many nuances that directly affect its efficiency. It is very important to correctly determine the choice of the main elements - a boiler, radiators, pipes for creating circuits, an expansion tank, a circulation pump. Ideally, such a calculation should be entrusted to specialists. But knowing the basics and being able to navigate in such matters will never be superfluous.
What kind of boiler is required?
The main requirement for the boiler: its heat output must fully ensure the efficiency of the heating system - maintain the required temperature in all heated rooms and fully compensate for the inevitable heat losses.
This publication will not dwell on the types of heating boilers. Each homeowner makes an individual decision - based on the availability and cost of energy, the presence or absence of the possibility of equipping a boiler room, storing fuel, taking into account their financial capabilities to purchase this or that equipment.
But the power of the boiler is that general parameter, without which it is impossible to create a rational and efficient heating system.
You can find a lot of recommendations on the simplest self-calculation of the required power. As a rule, it is recommended to proceed from the ratio of 100 W per 1 m² of house area. However, this approach gives only an approximate value. Agree that neither the difference in the climatic conditions of the region, nor the features of the premises are taken into account here. Therefore, we propose to use a more accurate method.
To get started, make a small table in which you indicate all the rooms in your house and their parameters. Surely, each owner has a building plan, and, knowing the features of his "possessions", he will spend quite a bit of time filling out such a table. An example is given below:
| room | area, sq. m | exterior or balcony door | exterior walls, quantity, where to look | windows, quantity and type | window size | required for heating, kW |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| TOTAL: | 18.7 kW | |||||
| hallway | 6 | 1 | 1, C | - | - | 2.01 |
| kitchen | 11 | - | 1, V | 2, double glazing | 120×90 cm | 1.44 |
| living room | 18 | 1 | 2, Yu.Z | 2, double glazing | 150×100 cm | 3.35 |
| sleeping | 12 | - | 1, V | 1, double glazing | 120×90 cm | 1.4 |
| children's | 14 | - | 1, Z | 1, double glazing | 120×90 cm | 1.49 |
| and so on throughout the premises | … |
Now that the data is ready, go to the calculator below and calculate the heat demand for each room in a table - it's very simple. It remains then only to sum all the values.
Calculator for calculating the required heat output
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