Do-it-yourself gate from a profiled sheet step by step. Gates from corrugated board: options for some models and step-by-step assembly instructions. Swing gate installation process


Gates made of corrugated board - a practical and inexpensive option for arranging the entrance and entrance to the site, which guarantees safety, reliability and aesthetic appearance. According to the opening method, such structures are usually classified into sliding and swing gates. Depending on the design of the gate, it can be internal or adjacent.

With your own hands, it is easiest to make swing gates from corrugated board, so consider this option. The gate is lined with a profiled sheet, which is highly durable and aesthetically pleasing.

As you can see from the photo of the gate from corrugated board, they can be very different in size and shape. Gates can be equipped with a gate. The profiled sheet is offered in various color options, which allows you to choose the best solution for the style of the site and the house.

Gate dimensions

To determine the width, you must take into account the width of the car, taking into account the mirrors and add 1 m to the margin. Pay attention to the width of the supports.

If it is planned to build a gate with a gate, which will be located separately, it is necessary to mount three supports. Clearances are required between the frame frame and the supports, they should also be taken into account. There are also gaps between the doors to ensure the operation of the fittings.

In most cases, gates are made with a width of 4.5-5 m. The gate usually has a width of 1.2 m. If possible, it is worth considering the width of the profiled sheet so as not to cut it again, since one sheet is definitely not enough for the sash.


The height of swing gates is usually in the range of 2.2-2.5 m. This is due to standard height sheet - 2 m. But, many manufacturers offer the possibility of manufacturing sheets of individual length in increments of half a meter.

Consider bottom clearance. Without it, in winter, the gate will be very difficult to open due to snow and ice. The height of the structure also depends on the decorative elements that are usually installed in the top.

Drawing preparation

To calculate the amount of materials, you need to draw up a drawing of the future gate. Swing models can be single-leaf or double-leaf. The former take up a lot of free space when opening and closing, are unstable in strong winds (sail phenomenon).

The latter factor can be leveled by increasing the number of frame elements, however, this will increase the load on the hinges, as a result, the sash will warp. Therefore, only small-sized gates should be made single-leaf.

The double-leaf design is the most popular and practical, but more expensive to manufacture, since there are more hinges and frame parts. The sashes can have the same or different widths.

On the gate diagram it is necessary to provide:

  • the total width of the structure;
  • leaf width;
  • frame design with the dimensions of its parts;
  • places for mounting loops;
  • place of installation of the internal latch;
  • the number and width of the supports, as well as the depth to which they will be dug;
  • location and dimensions of the gate;
  • place and method of installation of the lock.

Materials and tools for the production of gates

Based on the drawing, you should decide on the materials used and their quantity. For profiled structures, you must purchase:

  • facing material - corrugated board;
  • self-tapping screws for fixing sheets;
  • supports - steel pipe with a cross section of at least 60x60 mm;
  • profile pipes of sizes 60x20 mm or 40x40 mm for the manufacture of the frame;
  • corrugated pipe with a section of 20x20 mm as a frame amplifier;
  • a sheet of steel for making scarves (if necessary);
  • lock systems, hinges, latches at the bottom and top;
  • primer for metal and paint;
  • decorative elements (if necessary).


It is better to choose pipes with a wall thickness of 3 mm. Their cost is slightly higher, but they are stronger and easier to install.

The set of tools is small: a welding machine, a drill driver, a level, scissors for steel sheets, a tape measure, an angle grinder, brushes. Also purchase the required amount of consumables for these tools.

Installation of supports

Installation of gates from corrugated board must begin with supports. Usually they are dug up and then concreted.

Instructions for installing support pipes:

  • using a drill, prepare holes of the required depth and width. You can work with a shovel, but you will have to spend more cement mortar. The depth should be one third of the length of the post;
  • Pour crushed stone and sand into the hole, after mixing. Make a pillow 15-30 cm high;
  • cover the post with an anti-corrosion primer;
  • align the pipe vertically in the recess, controlling the level and plumb;
  • fill the column with concrete mortar;
  • install a metal visor or decorative element on top to prevent moisture from entering the pipe.

How to make a gate - frame construction

  • Unfold the sheets into blanks.
  • Clean all workpieces from dirt and rust.
  • Weld the frame elements together.
  • Reinforce the frame with additional profile pipes, if necessary.
  • Clean up the welds.
  • Degrease the structure, open with a primer and paint. First, paint over the welds well, and then the rest of the structure.

All actions must be performed in accordance with the previously prepared drawing.

Hinge installation

Installation of the gate is carried out on garage hinges, this is the easiest and cheapest option. First, the hinge must be welded to the support, then to the frame, stepping back from the edge of the sash frame 20-30 cm. The method of opening the gate depends on the place of installation of the hinges.

If it is necessary to open in both directions, the hinge must be butt-welded to the support post. If the gate will open only in one direction, the hinge is mounted overhead.

For reinforced gates, it is better to use three hinges, otherwise they will begin to sag. If the reinforcement was not performed and the structure is light, two loops will suffice.

Fastening corrugated board to the frame

Installation of metal sheets can be performed both on both sides and on one side. Decking is mounted extremely easily, but there are still certain recommendations. During installation, the profile must be screwed with screws to all jumpers diagonally, horizontally and vertically. The sheet is attached to the frame with fixation through 1 wave from the bottom of the sheet. Sheets are attached to each other in the upper component of the wave.

If a gate is provided inside the gate, it must also be attached to the hinges. For the gate, a separate frame is made according to certain dimensions.


In the case of a built-in wicket configuration, its hinges are attached to a profile pipe, which is part of the frame of the gate itself. In this place it is desirable to make reinforcement. If the gate is not built-in, but separate (gate with three pillars), its hinges are mounted to the corresponding support post.

After installing the corrugated board on the gates themselves and the gate, you can install a lock and other fittings. It all depends on your needs, you can mount a regular latch, any lock (paddle, overhead or mortise) or even automation.

This completes the installation of the gate. Periodically, do not forget to lubricate the hinges and other fittings in order to extend its service life.

Photo of a gate from corrugated board with your own hands

Beautiful gates and a gate in front of the house, this is the calling card of the owners. According to them, one can judge the material well-being of the family, the character of the owners of the house. Many owners prefer corrugated board designs, and to make the gate and gate look more aesthetically pleasing, they decorate with forging elements. In this article, we will tell you how to make such a construction with your own hands for private houses and summer cottages, using examples from videos and photos.

What is corrugated board

No wonder such designs are becoming more and more popular. Decking has a number of advantages:

  • sheets of corrugated board are covered with an anti-corrosion layer, they withstand various weather conditions well;
  • at correct installation such gates will last about 50 years;
  • ease of installation work, they are very easy to attach to finished sashes;
  • presentable appearance. Decking is produced in a huge range of colors and shapes, you can always choose the original version for your design;
  • relatively low cost.

But it cannot be said that such material for the gate is ideal, it also has disadvantages:

  • due to the small thickness, sheets of corrugated board can be easily cut through with an ax;
  • if you scratch the anti-corrosion layer, the product will quickly become covered with rust;
  • under strong mechanical stress, they are easily deformed.

Before you start designing gates and gates for your home, you need to decide on the choice of corrugated board. The following brands are distinguished:

  1. "C" - has a low profile, height from 7-21 (except C44). Designed for arranging gates, fences.
  2. "NS" - more durable than brand "C", due to the large height of the rib. Used to create wall fences.
  3. "H" - the most durable type of corrugated board. Canopies, visors, ceilings are made from it.

Attention! After the letters of the brand of corrugated board, a number indicating the height of the profile is indicated. For the manufacture of gates and wickets, I most often use the type C8 and C10.

What kind of gate can be made from corrugated board

According to the method of opening, such products are divided into the following types:

Swing- this is the most popular type of gate, the leaves of which open inward or outward. They are easy to install on your own, however, such a design requires enough free space. Swing gates can be decorated with forging around the perimeter.

Rollback– Doors open by rolling to the side. To install such gates, upper and lower rails are required along which the canvas moves. There are mechanical and automatic. Ideal for small areas. Such gates can be decorated both from above and over the entire surface with forged patterns.

lifting- open by lifting up. They are the most resistant to breaking, have an attractive appearance and look very stylish. The gates themselves cannot be decorated with any elements, but you can install them on a fence or gate.

Advantages of a gate from a professional flooring with elements of forging

Forged products give the style of the house a special luxury and elegance, emphasizing the status of the family. Such elements on the gate are hardened, so they are durable and strong. Forged gate not only looks stylish, but you can quickly make it yourself, the main thing is to have a welding machine, and all decorative elements can be bought in stores. And if you want to make designer gates, any metalworking workshop will be able to make forged products according to your sketches.

Materials for the manufacture of gates with forging elements

  1. Sheets of corrugated board, the number of which must be calculated from the drawing. In addition, their number depends on the dimensions of the sheet.
  2. Metal profile or pipe. They are needed to create pillars. The height of one column is equal to the height of the structure, plus one meter, which will be installed in the ground.
  3. Stiffening rib.
  4. To create a frame, you need a profile pipe.
  5. Anti-corrosion liquid for processing metal elements.
  6. Paint and primer.

Attention! When calculating the dimensions of the structure, consider the weight of the finished product. Bulky gates will be difficult to open. In addition, you will need stronger fasteners.

Pillar installation.

  • A place is planned for the installation of pillars, a hole is dug 110 cm deep.
  • A structure of the required length is cut out of the pipe (height of the ground part + 110 cm of the underground).
  • The columns are degreased with a special compound. Then they need to be wiped with a rag from the formed plaque.

Advice! The anti-corrosion agent can be replaced with gasoline.

  • We install the pillars in the pits, fall asleep with rubble and tamp. And then fill it with sand-cement mortar.
  • Before proceeding to further work with supporting structures, it is necessary to wait until the cement dries.

By analogy, poles are installed for both the gate and the gate. For a massive gate, more than 2 m high, it is better to make brick or concrete supports.

Creation of sashes

  • We choose a flat area, more than 2 meters in size, where we will lay a sketch of the wings using a channel. All structural elements must be laid on a perfectly flat surface.
  • With the help of a grinder, we cut off all unnecessary parts, we clean the cut points from burrs.
  • The finished elements must be laid out in place for welding, docked, check the parallelism of all parts.
  • We weld all the elements.
  • When the frame is ready, we attach it to the supports and mark the place for the loops.
  • We weld the hinges to the posts and hang the frame on them.

Advice! With the onset of the winter season, the hinges must be lubricated with oil for the durability of the structure.

  • To decorate the corrugated board with forged elements, you need to place them on the plane of the sheet, according to the drawing, and fix them by welding. First, large elements are brewed, and then small ones.
  • We sheathe the sashes with sheets of corrugated board. To do this, cut it to the size you need. We fasten it to metal frame using self-tapping screws. Sheets of corrugated board must be overlapped for secure fastening.
  • When the gate is ready, install the valve and stops. As stops, you can use a piece of reinforcement, which is inserted into the eyes in the gate body. And the reinforcement, in turn, is inserted into a metal sleeve dug into the ground.
  • Finished gates are degreased, a layer of primer is applied, and then coated with paint.

Making a gate

  • We make a frame from a steel pipe. We clean dirt, rust, traces of old paint from it using a metal brush or a grinder with a special nozzle.
  • We cut off the corners from the vertical ends, and cut the transverse elements at an angle of 45 °.
  • We apply a beam in the middle of the structure, strictly perpendicular to the side supports.
  • We weld all the details of the structure.
  • We clean the traces of welding and treat the case with an anti-corrosion compound.
  • Then the gate is primed and painted with paint.
  • Using self-tapping screws or a riveting machine, we sheathe the gate with corrugated board.
  • With inside gates, at a height of 90 cm from the ground, we install a valve, fixing it with self-tapping screws.
  • We weld hinges to the support posts and hang the gate on them.
  • In order for the sash to open in one direction, a bump stop is installed on the second support. To determine its location, the end of the gate is lubricated with a compound that leaves traces. Then they close the gate, where the marks will remain and you need to hang a chipper.
  • We decorate the steel structure with the help of forged elements purchased in the store. Lamps in a forged body will help emphasize the elegance of the design. All elements are welded by welding.

Gates made of corrugated board look expensive, will last a long time, and it is very easy to install them yourself. Forging elements give the design a fashionable look. At the same time, the gate does not require special care and large investments for manufacturing.

Gates from corrugated board: video

Gates from corrugated board with forging elements: photo


















A profiled metal sheet can be safely called a universal material, since it is used in private construction for a variety of needs. They block the roofs of residential buildings and utility buildings, it is used to create walls and partitions in adjoining buildings, it is also perfect for fences, gates and gates. Often, by the way, it happens that, starting with a gate or gate, the owner of the site in practice realizes the simplicity and convenience of working with this material, and this stimulates him to completely update the old wooden fence of his territory using corrugated board.

There are separate publications about the fence from corrugated board on the site, but in this article, let's look at how a gate is made from a metal profile with our own hands - a diagram + workflow. On the example of this, the smallest in area, element of the territory fencing, it will be easier to understand the principle of the operations performed, with the tools, materials and components necessary for this, with the main technological methods used during installation.

Preparatory stages

Necessary tools for work

Everyone knows that when working with metal parts, welding is most often used to fasten individual elements into a common structure. Indeed, this is the most reliable method of fixation for metal. However, there are cases when it is not possible to use such technology, and then the masters resort to other installation methods.

So, for the manufacture and installation of a gate with metal profile sheathing, it is necessary to prepare:

  • This device will always come in handy for owners of private houses, especially those who are planning to overhaul their homes or are building outbuildings on their backyard. For non-professional craftsmen, it is enough to have an inverter welding machine with a welding current of up to 160 ÷ 200 A in their tool “arsenal”. The price for these devices today can be considered quite affordable, with proper handling, the device will last for many years. And, by the way, it will help to save even larger amounts, since inviting a welder with his equipment for any reason is not cheap.

The ability to independently perform metal welding - solves many problems

AT Everyday life country house the need to perform various welding work arises very often. The best option, of course - to purchase your own equipment and have the skills to work with it. How to choose the right welding machine, and how to start - read in a special publication of our portal.

Prices for metal profiles

metal profile

  • Angle grinder ("Bulgarian") and a set of circles for working with metal - for cutting and grinding.
  • Screwdriver - this tool will help you quickly and effortlessly fix sheets of corrugated board on a metal frame.
  • The scriber will help when marking out parts for a metal structure. Unlike a pencil or marker, a scriber gives clear, regular lines that are easy to cut.
  • Also, for marking, you will need a metal ruler, tape measure, building square and level.
  • Clamps - these devices are necessary when assembling the frame, when installing the hinges and the gate lock.
  • A garden drill with a diameter of 200÷250 mm will help not only to quickly and easily drill a hole for the installation of load-bearing wicket posts, but also significantly save on bulk building materials. This is due to the fact that the hole dug with a shovel will always be much wider, which means that it will require a larger volume of mortar, which is used to fix the supporting racks.
  • If the farm does not have a concrete mixer, then it is necessary to prepare a container for mixing concrete. And in this case, a construction mixer can help to mix the solution qualitatively. An electric drill with a mixer nozzle is unlikely to cope with such a task.
  • Shovels, shovel and bayonet - for earthworks, as well as for mixing concrete. If it is to be done manually.
  • Scrap - this tool is also used for digging pits for poles (if dense rock is encountered along the path of the drill), and for tamping rubble around the bearing racks, and for “bayoneting” - removing air bubbles from the solution after it is poured into the pits.

Previously, attention was paid to the fact that if the wicket frame is planned to be made heavy, that is, for example, each of its elements will consist of two profile pipes or the total height will be more than 2000 mm, then it is recommended to tie the support posts in the upper part with a crossbar. This design will be more rigid and will help take some load off the support legs. It is not forbidden to place the same jumper on the bottom.

Calculator for calculating the amount of concrete for installing racks and ingredients for its manufacture

The calculator below will allow you to quickly calculate how much M200 concrete mortar is required to install one wicket post.

  • The calculation program provides the ability to change the height of the concrete pouring of the well.
  • In addition, you can include in the total amount of concrete the volume that is required to completely fill the pipe cavity. When you select this item, additional data entry fields will appear. Considering that various pipes can be used for racks, the calculation algorithm includes the parameters of the most suitable sizes of square, rectangular and round pipes for this purpose.
  • The answer will be given both in the total amount of concrete, and with a breakdown by ingredients - PC400 cement, sand, gravel and water. The quantity of ingredients is estimated in mass and in volume.

The visiting card of the owner of a summer cottage or a country cottage is a gate that should look representative and aesthetically pleasing and, at the same time, reliably protect the entrance to a private territory. These indicators are fully met by swing or retractable types of structures made of a profile section pipe - an affordable, inexpensive and easily processed material. By adhering to the step-by-step instructions and the developed documentation, you can make and install swing gates with your own hands at minimal cost, as well as decorate them.

Profile pipe as a material for gates - pros and cons

The profile pipe, used as the main material for the manufacture of gate structures, is deservedly preferred due to its many advantages.

The main advantages of using a profiled pipe for the construction of gates:

  • low costs for the acquisition of material;
  • high structural strength;
  • convenience of screwing in self-tapping screws for metal;
  • aesthetic appearance of the frames;
  • light weight of the metal structure;
  • ease of processing and welding of workpieces.

Simultaneously with the complex good points, the profile pipe also has weaknesses:

  • susceptibility to corrosion caused by operation in conditions of high humidity and the penetration of moisture inside profile pipe;
  • the occurrence of deformations of the frame during operation, due to the use of threaded fasteners during assembly;
  • the inconvenience of applying a primer and paint on the surface of a profile pipe, which slightly increases the duration of work.

Compliance with the manufacturing and installation technology of the gate minimizes the likelihood of negative factors and guarantees long term operation of the product.

Preparation for manufacturing: how to calculate the dimensions of the future design

Despite the simplicity of manufacturing the metal structure of the gate, at the design stage it is important to responsibly approach the implementation of preparatory measures, carefully consider all the nuances. A serious approach will allow you to avoid mistakes and correctly calculate the dimensions of the future structure.

To calculate the dimensions of the product at the design stage, it is necessary to consider the following points:

  • determine the design of the gate and the need to equip the leaves with an automatic control system. The canvas can have one or two doors and open on hinges or be retractable;
  • make a decision on finishing and sheathing the frame of the gate from a profile pipe. You can use profile sheets, wood, polycarbonate, mesh or metal, as well as perform a lattice, forged or openwork structure;
  • make the necessary measurements. The dimensions of the entrance to the territory or to the storage room for the vehicle must ensure the unhindered entry of a vehicle of a certain size. In this case, it is necessary to take into account the area that will be involved when opening the swing doors;
  • develop a drawing or sketch indicating all the required dimensions and design features (gates, stiffeners, reinforcement elements, suspension loops, fixation points and connection of automation).

    Carefully designed documentation allows you to accurately calculate the need for materials.

According to the previously developed drawing, the total footage of the profiled pipe and the required amount of material for sheathing are determined.

When designing a structure, the following points should be considered:

You can use a ready-made drawing and adapt it to specific conditions , with actual dimensions.

To determine the distance between the supporting pillars, it is necessary to sum up the dimensions of the door leaves, the gaps for fastening the hinges and turning the wings. The distance between the supports for the above option will be 2 + 2 + 0.01 + 0.01 = 4.02 meters.

Having decided to use a pipe with a profile section for manufacturing, you should decide on the assortment, type and size of rolled pipe. When choosing, consider the following points:

  • profile configuration. For manufacturing, it is preferable to use profiled pipes having a square or rectangular shape. Rolled oval section is practically not used;
  • the material from which the pipe is made. For budget options use rolled carbon steel. The use of galvanized pipes, which are distinguished by an increased price, allows you to additionally protect the metal structure from corrosion;
  • production method. Welded and seamless pipes produced by hot or cold rolling are produced. Taking into account the increased costs for the purchase of seamless pipes, the optimal solution is the use of welded cold-rolled profiles, characterized by stable dimensions;
  • wall thickness of profiled steel. With the same size of the pipe section, the wall thickness can differ by more than 2 times. To ensure strength and the possibility of welding, it is necessary to use materials with a wall thickness of at least 1.5–2 mm. The use of thicker pipes will increase costs and increase the mass of the structure, which is not practical.

After analyzing the selection criteria, one can confidently give preference to welded cold-rolled pipes with a wall thickness of 2 mm square (25x25 or 30x30) or rectangular (20x40) section. Having selected the profile pipes, proceed to the calculations.

Calculation and necessary tools

Having decided on the size of the profile pipe and having correctly developed the drawing, you can begin to determine the need for materials, purchase purchased components, prepare tools and equipment for construction.

A generalized list of materials for the manufacture of gates includes:

  • profile section pipes corresponding to the drawing dimensions;
  • sheathing material that will be attached to the canvases, for example, a profile sheet, polycarbonate, wood or metal;
  • hanging loops for connecting canvases with support pillars or a roller mechanism for sliding gates;
  • lock and elements for fixing the canvases (staples, hecks, latches);
  • fasteners designed to fix the finishing material;
  • decorative details (for example, forged elements), if they are provided for by the drawing;
  • primer for corrosion protection and pre-painting of metal structures;
  • enamel for exterior work, intended for final finishing and ensuring the presentation of the product.

On the example of a swing gate with two wings, we will calculate the need for materials.

For the gate shown in the sketch, you will need:

  • a pipe with a profile section of 40x60 mm for the manufacture of support posts that are not concreted, but are attached to the poles at the entrance. The total need for a pipe measuring 40x60 mm is four meters (two racks of 2 meters each);
  • corrugated pipe 40x40 for the manufacture of two frames. Knowing the dimensions of one sash 1.5x2 meters, it is easy to calculate the perimeter and add to it one horizontal jumper located in the middle of the sash, equal to 1.5 meters: 1.5 + 2 + 1.5 + 2 + 1.5 = 8.5 meters . For two canvases, 8.5x2 \u003d 17 meters of pipe will be required;
  • a square pipe with a section of 20x20 mm for the manufacture of braces that give rigidity to the canvases. Using the Pythagorean theorem, it is easy to calculate the length of the hypotenuse of a triangle with legs of 1 and 1.5 meters. The square root of the sum of the squares of the legs is 1.8 meters. For four braces, 1.8x4 + 7.2 meters of a profile pipe will be required;
  • corner scarves, which is a right-angled triangle made of steel 2–2.5 mm thick with sides of 10 cm. Each leaf will need 4 scarves to ensure the rigidity of the corner zones;
  • corrugated board for sewing the frame of the gate. It will take 2 sheets measuring 1.5x2 meters;
  • self-tapping screws for fixing the profiled sheet. Dividing the length of the supporting surface of the professional pipe, equal to 17 m, by the fastening step of the screws (0.3–0.4 meters), we get 42–56 self-tapping screws. It is necessary to have a couple of spares, so 60 pieces will be enough;
  • loops with a diameter of 25 mm in the amount of 4 pieces;
  • two locking latches and a valve;
  • primer for metal and paint for finishing.

A typical set of tools for the manufacture of gates, installation and concreting of supporting pillars differs slightly.

For the gates we are considering, the following equipment and tools are required:

  • welding machine with electrodes with a diameter of 3 mm;
  • grinder with a circle for cutting metal;
  • electric drill with drills;
  • a hammer;
  • tools for taking measurements, controlling the accuracy of manufacturing and assembly (tape measure, level, corner);
  • grinding wheel for sealing welds;
  • file to remove burrs;
  • brush for applying a protective coating.

Step-by-step instructions for making a gate from a profile pipe with your own hands

In the manufacture of gates, follow the previously developed documentation and follow the technological sequence of operations.

Gates can be made from a profile pipe using welding equipment or using threaded fasteners.

Let's consider both options.

Welded construction

When welding swing gates from profile pipes, perform work according to the sequence:

  1. Cut pieces to the appropriate size.
  2. Clean cut areas, remove rust and burrs.
  3. Arrange the received gate parts according to standard sizes. This will facilitate further manufacturing and check the correct dimensions.
  4. Fix the gate support posts, which can be welded to the embedded elements or concreted.
  5. Lay the sash blanks on a flat surface into a common structure. It is important to ensure right angles between the frame elements and assemble the gate without distortions.
  6. Put a scarf on the corner joint of the profile pipes, ensuring that the extreme edges match. Grab the frame elements by welding, fixing the workpieces.
  7. Finally weld the metal structure using a set of blanks.
  8. Weld the swing hinges to the support posts and gate leaves, ensuring a distance of 15–20 cm from the upper and lower levels.
  9. Treat welds to ensure marketability and safe operation.
  10. Hang the door leaves on the hinges and make sure that there is no jamming when opening.
  11. Treat the metal structure with a primer. After the primer dries, apply enamel.
  12. Fix the profiled sheet with self-tapping screws.
  13. Install locks, locking elements and latches.

Remember to correctly fasten the hinges corresponding to the opening direction of the gate.

The welded construction of the gate is characterized by increased strength.

How to weld a gate frame from a professional pipe with your own hands: video

The video shows in detail the sequence of work on welding the frame of the gate.

Threaded version

If there is no welding machine or there are no skills in handling it, it is possible to assemble the gate from a profile pipe without welding. To do this, it is necessary to use bolts, nuts with M8 thread and washers, as well as connecting elements.

Remember that the use of spring washers will prevent spontaneous unscrewing and increase the reliability of threaded connections.

To complete the assembly, you will need a drill with drills corresponding to the diameter of the hardware used, as well as wrenches.

The algorithm for manufacturing a structure without welding is completely similar to the previously given sequence for a welded product, with the exception of the following points:

  • use connecting elements for fastening profile pipes;
  • connect corner scarves with frame elements through pre-drilled holes;
  • use pads for threaded fastening at the junctions of profile elements. As an alternative, you can do

    end fastening of frame elements;

  • fasten the swivel hinges with bolts and nuts installed in pre-made holes.

During the operation of the gate, made without welding and assembled on bolts, the threaded fastening is gradually weakened. To ensure the rigidity of the structure, it is necessary to periodically check the degree of tightening.

After assembling the frame, you can proceed to the sheathing with finishing material.

The metal structure of the gate must be reliably protected from the effects of natural factors. For this, a primer for metal and enamel is used, which, after the primer has dried, is applied with a brush, roller or spray gun. You can use an aerosol can available on the market.

Before applying the primer, degrease the surface with acetone or gasoline. This improves adhesion and increases the service life of the paintwork.

It does not matter when to paint - before hanging the sashes or after installation. It is important to ensure high-quality enamel coating of all parts of the metal structure. It is possible to improve the appearance of the gate, using various materials and decorative elements.

Forging decoration

You can originally decorate the gate from a profile pipe with forged parts.

It is problematic to make forged elements on your own. They can be purchased at specialized stores or ordered from a forge.

It is easy to weld the finished decor on your own to the finished product in the right places, creating an original pattern.

Profiled sheet application

The use of profile sheets for sewing the gate frame allows to reduce manufacturing costs.

The wide range of colors offered in the trade network of profiled sheets allows you to harmoniously fit the design into the interior of the site.

The low weight helps to reduce the load on the suspension loops.

wood finish

The wood that can be used to decorate the gate has an original texture and gives the product a presentable look.

The material requires additional processing to protect it from moisture and cracking.

Using the grid

Metal mesh is a budget solution for decoration. Using the mesh, you can easily sheathe the metal structure of the frame and provide a free view of the surrounding area.

The mesh made of galvanized wire is less susceptible to corrosion and is durable.

Polycarbonate sheathing

Polycarbonate is a modern material used in the manufacture of structures.

The lightness of the material and the ease of fastening make it popular.

The use of polycarbonate in various colors allows you to creatively approach the design.

Metal stitching

Metal sheets are a simple and quick solution for framing a frame.

With increased strength, the material has a significant mass. This increases the weight of the sashes and requires additional reinforcement of the structure.

Video: profile pipe gate

The video contains helpful information about the design features of swing gates.

Step-by-step instructions for installing swing gates are presented in the video.

The use of a profile pipe for self-manufacturing gate allows you to achieve savings Money and with their own hands to create a reliable design, the strength of which is beyond doubt. It is important to think carefully about the device, take a responsible approach to the development of documentation, use high-quality materials and follow the technology. The simplicity of design and the possibility of using various types of finishes create a wide field for creativity. In addition, self-made gates are a serious reason for pride.

All homeowners have to deal with the issue of fencing the site and designing a convenient entrance-entrance to the site for households and guests. The requirements for the wicket and gate are durability, beauty, ease of use, reliable protection from uninvited visitors and prying eyes. One of the most popular and easy to implement options is a gate with a gate made of corrugated board.

Profiled metal sheet has many advantages:

  • aesthetics - a large selection of colors and patterns allows you to choose a material suitable for the general style of home and site design; even a plain metal coating looks very stylish; imitation of natural stone or brick will give the gate a very prestigious look; there are also more exclusive drawings - flowers, plants, landscapes, paintings;
  • corrosion resistance - a modern plastic coating will protect the metal from rusting for many years;
  • strength;
  • low cost;
  • ease of installation of corrugated metal structures.

Types of profiled sheet structures

The gate from a professional flooring can be located near or be separate from the gate. Gates built into the gate leaf are no longer found due to their low aesthetics.

The design of gates and gates can be different:

  • a simple rectangular frame with horizontal, oblique, crossed lintels; can be decorated on top or bottom with a welded decorative grille;
  • frame of a complex original structure made of forged metal against the background of corrugated board.

With a high fence above the gate with a height of more than two meters, a transverse crossbar can be installed, also sheathed with a profiled sheet; a small canopy can be installed to protect the incoming from snow and rain at the moment the lock is opened. Support posts can be metal or brick, depending on the overall design of the fence.

According to the method of opening, the gates are traditionally made swinging, sometimes there are also sliding ones with automatic opening.

Options for gates made of corrugated board give even more scope for design creativity: sliding and swinging, with forged elements, with inserts made of polycarbonate and wood.

The simplest do-it-yourself swing gate for a fence, accessible even to a novice home craftsman, has a simple rectangular design with metal supports. Its manufacture and installation are described below.

Preparatory stages

Before you make a gate out of corrugated board with your own hands, you should consider the sequence of actions and prepare.

The first stage of preparation is determining the size of the gate. The height of the door depends on the height of the fence, but usually does not exceed two meters (two meters ten centimeters if there are tall men in the family). If the fence is very high, then the gate is not made to the full height of the fence, but lintels are made of a steel profile above the door and sewn up with a profiled sheet. The width of the opening is usually made meter-meter ten centimeters - this width allows you to go to the site with large bags in your hands or bring furniture. Large gate width requires a heavier and stronger frame with additional lintels; not very convenient to open; there is a possibility of the door warping during operation.

The second step is to consider the design of the door and support posts and draw a diagram with dimensions .

The third stage of preparation is to prepare materials and tools.

Materials and tools

To make a gate from corrugated board with your own hands, you will need the following materials:

  • polymer-coated corrugated board (made of acrylic, polyvinyl chloride, polyester, polyurethane); recommended thickness is 0.6-0.9 mm; the wave height is usually small - about 10 mm;
  • roofing self-tapping screws with a rubber washer, painted to match the color of the sheet;
  • steel pipes with dimensions of at least 80x80 mm for supporting pillars; for a small gate without a gate, you can take a pipe 60x60 mm in size; with a wall thickness of at least 3 mm; the pipe can be replaced by a structure of two U-shaped channels welded in the shape of a pipe;
  • steel pipes 40x40 mm or 60x40 mm for the wicket frame;
  • anticorrosive primer;
  • paint for outdoor work, resistant to weathering;
  • loops;
  • lock;
  • crushed stone, sand, cement for mortar;
  • gravel or crushed stone of medium fraction;
  • electrodes.

List of tools:

  • welding machine. You can use the services of a welder - but for the estate it is better to purchase an apparatus and learn how to do simple work yourself. The price of the device over the years of operation will pay off with interest, because the work of a welder is not cheap. For a home master, it is enough to have an inverter welding machine with a welding current of 160-200 A;
  • angle grinder (grinder) with wheels for cutting and grinding metal;
  • drill and screwdriver - for drilling holes and tightening self-tapping screws;
  • construction tape measure, metal ruler, level, construction square, plumb line, chalk, scriber;
  • clamps - necessary when assembling the frame, when installing hinges and a lock;
  • garden drill with a diameter of 250-300 mm - for drilling holes for support posts;
  • concrete mixer or construction mixer and a container for mixing concrete;
  • shovel - for loading bulk materials into a concrete mixer or for manual mixing of concrete;
  • bayonet and shovel shovels - for digging a hole if it is not possible to use a drill; a hole dug by hand will have uneven edges - this will increase the consumption of concrete;
  • scrap - useful when digging pits for poles for breaking up dense rock.

Step by step installation technology

Swing gate from corrugated board the smallest and simple design fencing, you can handle its manufacture on your own, even if you are a beginner with little experience as a welder.

Foundation arrangement

Before pouring the foundation for the racks, it is necessary to mark the centers of future pits in line with the fence using a cord. Then you need to dig or drill holes for the racks. The depth of the concrete base must be at least the depth of soil freezing, which in middle lane is 1200 mm. Sand is poured into the bottom of the pit and compacted. The thickness of the sand cushion in the compacted state is 100 mm of sand, 200 mm of fine crushed stone or gravel is poured on top and also compacted. The total depth of the pit should be at least 1200 + 100 + 200 = 1500 mm.

The recessed part of the racks is 1200 mm, so the workpieces are cut 1200 mm longer than the required height.

For stability, it is advisable to weld a square of steel sheet with a thickness of at least 4 mm and 1-2 jumpers from a corner or pipe at a distance of 300 and 800 mm from the lower edge of the supports to the lower part of the metal supports for stability. The lower part of the racks must be treated with bituminous mastic to a height of 1300 mm. Before pouring, the edges of the pit are covered with a layer of roofing material - this allows you to separate the concrete from the ground, retain moisture in it during the maturation process and provides the necessary strength of the finished concrete.

Pole installation

The pillars are installed in a well or pit at a distance equal to the width of the gate plus 5-10 mm (these are the gaps between the gate and the pillars), poured with concrete, carefully aligned in the vertical plane and in the plane of the fence, and observing the exact distance between the wings using the building level and fixed in this position with the help of spacers. If the pit is from a drill and is narrow, you can wedge the posts in the pit using large stones. Sometimes temporary spacers from reinforcement and a transverse bar at the top are welded, which, after the concrete has set, are cut off and the welding points are cleaned. Ready concrete is carefully pierced with a crowbar or reinforcement - so that air bubbles do not form inside the concrete. It is desirable to fill the inner surface of the pipe with concrete.

Pouring concrete will gain strength in 10-15 days, depending on the ambient temperature. Before the end of this period, work on the installation of the wicket door should not be carried out - otherwise the wicket will lead in the future. The first days the surface of the concrete must be moistened.

Concrete for the foundation is used grades M150 (B10) or M200 (B15). The composition of concrete is given in the table:

When replacing cement grade 400 with 300, its amount should be increased by a third; when replacing with brand 500, the amount of cement can be slightly reduced and take into account the fact that the concrete will harden somewhat faster.

Wicket frame

Installation of the fence and gate can be carried out simultaneously with the installation of the gate or at another time. With the simultaneous installation of all elements of the fence, it is easier to set them on the same line.

When cutting metal and welding, you can be injured, so you can’t start work without overalls and protective equipment: a suit (a canvas suit is required for welding), special gloves and canvas mittens, safety glasses (dark for welding), boots.

Before welding, cut off the necessary pieces of pipes for the frame. The length of the main pipes along the perimeter of the frame is equal to the length and width of the gate, the cuts are made at an angle of 45°. Frame lintel tubes are cut at an angle of 90°. Burrs on cuts should be cleaned, rust should be sanded. This will improve the quality of the seam.

Welding work is carried out on a flat horizontal surface. If there is no suitable table, then the work can be done by placing the pipes on a flat area (there is usually a tiled or concreted platform of a suitable size near the house). Under the pipes, identical linings must be placed, for example, from a bar. Then level the surface so that the frame parts located on them lie strictly horizontally. Ideally, it is worth cutting off an OSB sheet with dimensions that are 50 mm larger than the length and width of the wicket frame, and fixing pipes on it with pipe clamps. If there is no OSB sheet at hand, then the frame parts are interconnected with clamps. Then you should check the correct angles and location of the parts, and only then proceed with welding. First, the frame is pinpointed at the corners, then the corners and diagonals are checked - they should be the same. This means that the pipes lie correctly relative to each other. Then the joints are welded with a continuous seam on one side.

During welding, the metal experiences strong thermal expansion, therefore, after each operation, it is necessary to control the correctness of the angles, the linear dimensions of the parts, and the location of the parts relative to each other. It is desirable to carry out welding intermittently so that the seams have time to cool and the frame does not “drive”.

After welding one side of the frame, allow the seams to cool, turn the frame over, remove the clamps and boil the second side of the frame. Allow the seams to cool and grind off the protruding part. The seams after painting, if possible, should not be visible. Then the crossbars are mounted - the so-called stiffeners. They can be arranged horizontally, obliquely, cross - it all depends on the size of the gate and the preferences of the master. The procedure for welding the crossbars is similar to the procedure for welding the frame: cut off pieces of the pipe of the desired length, cut off the corners if necessary, clean, fix with clamps, grab with spot welding, weld, clean the seams. It is easier to weld thicker pipes, so it is recommended to buy pipes with a wall thickness of at least 3 mm.

Video

Frame installation

The frame is installed using cylindrical steel hinges. The weight of the gate made of corrugated board is small, and for its installation it is enough to use two or three hinges with a diameter of 30 mm; for larger and heavier gates, reinforced hinges with support pads made of a sheet with a thickness of at least 4 mm are used. 500 mm less than the height of the gate (i.e. the distance from the top and bottom of the gate to the hinge will be 200-250 mm). The hinges on the poles can be welded both before and after installation.

To weld the hinges, we adjust the sashes to the uprights, set them up with the help of wedges and a spacer-support from a bar at the bottom of the gate. The gap between the frame and the uprights is 2.5-5 mm on both sides. First, the upper loop is applied and tacked by spot welding to the supports, then it is boiled. Then grab the upper loop to the frame of the gate. Then, in the same order, they grab the lower loop, check the correct hanging of the frame, weld the loops, let them cool, remove the stand and wedges. On the supports, they check the height, cut it if necessary, weld a hole on top of the pipe with a sheet of metal of the desired size.

You can install a latch or a lock with a key on the gate. A mortise lock is desirable - it is more reliable when opening the gate outward. Before inserting the lock, its dimensions are measured. Then the placement on the gate is determined, on the side surface of the pipe mark the place where you want to make a slot, and cut a hole for the lock on both sides of the pipe with a grinder with a small disk. To close the lock from precipitation and hacking, the casing is welded and welded to the frame pipe. Then a lock is inserted into the hole in the pipe, points are marked for fastening screws, a locking cylinder mechanism, an axis of the handle (if a lock with a handle is selected), holes are drilled through the casing. Then the door closes, a place is marked for the lock bar on the support, holes for self-tapping screws are drilled. Then the lock is removed.

Before sheathing with corrugated board, the frame is sanded, treated with an anti-corrosion primer, covered with two layers of weather-resistant exterior paint.

Sheathing with a professional sheet is carried out in the penultimate turn. The profiled sheet is superimposed on the frame in such a way that the recessed part of the wave lies on the frame from the side of the lock, the dimensions of the sheet and the dimensions of the cutouts for the hinges are determined. Then the sheet is cut with a grinder, places for the hinges are cut out, a place is drilled for the cylinder and the axis of the lock handle.

The edge of the sheet must be processed with a file so that there are no burrs, treated with an anti-corrosion compound and coated with paint. Otherwise, it is from these places that corrosion of the sheet will begin.

The sheet is screwed with colored roofing screws with rubber washers into the lower part of the wave to the frame pipes; before screwing in the screws, it is advisable to drill holes with a drill. Lastly, a lock and a lock bar are installed, if desired, a handle, a valve. Everything - the gate is ready

Using the step-by-step instructions set out in this article, even an inexperienced home craftsman can make and install a popular and stylish corrugated board gate with his own hands. Do not be afraid to take on the work yourself - the road will be mastered by the walking one. Good luck in your endeavors!

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