Do-it-yourself installation of an acrylic bathtub on legs. Is it possible to save money on an acrylic bathtub frame? Algorithm for mounting an acrylic bath on a metal frame

The appearance of acrylic bathtubs on the sanitary ware market has become a real gift for connoisseurs of original products. Acrylic bathtubs have different geometries and sizes, due to the unique technological characteristics they can be made in very complex configurations.

The comfort of using the bathroom depends on two equally important conditions: the quality of the product and the correct installation. Before describing the installation process of acrylic bathtubs, it is advisable to familiarize yourself a little with the features of the production technology and the strong and weaknesses. Such knowledge will help to avoid annoying mistakes; during installation, due attention will be paid to preventing problems during operation.

There are two types of bathtubs on the market today:

• from pure cast acrylic;
• from acrylo-netrile butadiene styrene and polymethyl methacrylate in various proportions.

The former have increased strength, but are somewhat limited in their ability to create forms. The latter are more plastic, which facilitates the manufacturing process, but they are noticeably inferior in strength to the former. The cost ratio is the same. Which bath to choose - each user needs to decide independently. But there are a few general recommendations that allow you to choose the best option for yourself.

What to pay attention to?

acrylic bathtubs

Among all the possible methods of mounting acrylic bathtubs, the option with legs is considered the fastest and cheapest, and we will dwell on it in more detail.

Types of preparatory work

1. Completion of all construction works indoors and supply of engineering networks.

Important. Due to the peculiarities of fixation, acrylic bathtubs can only be installed on concrete surfaces. The walls must be brick, in extreme cases, options for using foam concrete are allowed. It is strictly forbidden to install acrylic baths in rooms with plasterboard walls. This requirement is due to the peculiarities of fixing products.

1. Debris removal and site preparation. During the execution of work, nothing should interfere, the floor should be clean, to prevent scratches, the surface is covered with cardboard or a thick cloth.
2. Preparation of tools and materials. To seal the gaps, you will need a special sealant for bathrooms (it inhibits the reproduction of microorganisms and has improved performance), a set of locksmith tools, an electric drill, tape measure, level, pencil or felt-tip pen.

Before installing the bath, carefully check its condition and the completeness of additional fixing elements. Remember that the manufacturer's warranty only covers factory defects. Damage resulting from improper installation will have to be repaired at your own expense. Remove the protective film from the front surfaces only after the completion of all installation work.

Room preparation

Step 1. Seal the ceramic tile joints between wall and floor. Use a special antibacterial silicone, apply it evenly around the perimeter in those places where the acrylic bath will be installed.

Practical advice. Leveling silicone is easier with a thin narrow spatula or a self-made stick. To prevent excess sealant from sticking to the surface of the ceramic tiles, dampen them with a spray bottle of soapy water before leveling. Dip the stick into the same solution, this will prevent the silicone from sticking to it, the sealant seam will be even.

Step 2 If your bath drain is not located in the place where it is required, then you need to make a special eyeliner. Assemble plastic pipes for water drainage, pipe diameter 50 mm. Measure the distance from the existing sewer to the location of the bath drain. To the existing drain pipes are connected by a triangle.

Important. Do not forget to make the slope of the pipes, the difference in height is enough a centimeter or two per linear meter.

You do not need to precisely control this parameter, check the slope with an ordinary building level.

If turns are required, then use additional elements. When connecting pipes, be sure to moisten the sealing gum, you can use ordinary soapy water.

If some pipes need to be cut, then do it with a grinder with a stone for metal or a hacksaw. After cutting, be sure to remove the burrs with a sharp mounting knife and make a small chamfer. Otherwise, the sharp ends may damage the rubber seals, the system will have to be disassembled, the seals changed and reassembled. The chamfer is made with an abrasive disc. Hold it at an angle of 30-45° to the end of the plastic pipe and slowly turn it around. Burrs appear - cut them off with a knife.

Burrs on the cut edge of the pipe must be cleaned with a knife or sandpaper. Otherwise, hair and threads will subsequently cling to them.

If the siphon is without a corrugated pipe, then you need to accurately measure the dimensions, if there is a corrugation, then the work is greatly simplified. Make sure that the drain pipe does not interfere with the installation of the bath legs.

If there is no cold and hot water supply near the installation site of the shower, then this problem must also be solved. There are two ways: remove ceramic tiles on the walls and make a hidden liner or install pipes on the walls. Which option to choose - decide on your own, taking into account your needs and capabilities.

On this preparatory work finished, you can proceed to install the bath on legs.

Bath installation instructions

Step 1. Line the floor with cardboard, turn the tub upside down and remove the protective packaging.

Under it should be the manufacturer's instructions, find the document and carefully study it. Check the completeness of the legs, count the number of hardware.

Pay attention to their characteristics and purpose.

The standard package includes:

• four plastic legs. They have an internal thread for screwing in and adjusting the height and holes for fixing to the floor;
• two mounting channels (racks). Manufactured from thick steel sheet, for protection against corrosion processes, the outer surfaces are covered with a layer of zinc. Fastening is carried out using holes;
• four pins. On the one hand, plastic legs are screwed to them, and on the other hand, they are fixed to the supporting channels;
• nuts. With their help, the legs are adjusted in height and fixed in the desired position;
• self-tapping screws. Used for fastening load-bearing channels (slats);
• metal grips. Used to attach the sides of the bath to the wall;
• dowels for fixing to the wall grips.

Most bathtubs have overflow siphons. If not, then these items must be purchased separately.

Step 2 Find a place to fix the straps. If the instructions do not indicate their location, then they should be mounted at a maximum distance from each other. But subject to a very important condition - all self-tapping screws should only be screwed into a special thickened place on the bottom. Planks should be parallel to each other and perpendicular to the longitudinal axis of the tub. Set the elements with a tape measure and a square.

Step 3 With a thin pencil or felt-tip pen, mark the places where the planks are attached to the bottom. Pick up self-tapping screws in length and secure the planks. Please note that the length of the screws is approximately 0.5–1 cm less than the thickness of the bottom of the tub. Otherwise, mechanical damage to the front surface of the bath is possible. Tighten the screws carefully, do not twist. It is better to work with an ordinary screwdriver, it is difficult for beginners to control the moment of tightening the screwdriver.

What to do if the self-tapping screw turned? It is impossible to leave the hardware in this state. Unscrew it completely, insert matches into the hole, lubricate them with sealant and repeat tightening. To make the matches fit tighter, you need to sharpen the ends a little. This method allows you to increase the strength of the connection, but the reliability will already be less than fixing the first time.

Important. The diameter of the drilled holes should be 1.5–2.0 mm smaller than the diameter of the screw. Be sure to check the drilling depth.

You can do this in two ways:

• use a special persistent ruler, it is sold together with a drill;
• Measure the depth of the hole on the drill and wrap a little electrical tape or tape at this distance.

You can try to fix the screws without pre-drilling holes. Make your decision based on your experience. In any free place on the bottom, screw in a smaller self-tapping screw. If everything went well, the acrylic and the insert did not crack, then fixing the planks can be done using the same method. This greatly increases the reliability and reduces the risk of damage to the internal surface of the acrylic bath.

Step 4 Start assembling the legs. Screw a lock nut and a plastic leg onto the axle, and another nut on the other side of the axle. Insert the assembled element into the hole in the bar and secure with the top nut. According to the same algorithm, assemble and install all the legs in place. Do not tighten the locknuts too much, do everything by hand.

Step 5 Using a tape measure, set the preliminary height of the bath, in most cases, the distance from the side to the floor ranges from 50–60 cm.

This completes the assembly of metal structures, start installing a siphon with overflow.

Siphon assembly

Step 1. Check the completeness of the siphon spare parts and their technical condition. Carefully inspect the rubber rings and gaskets, their surfaces should be smooth, without depressions, sags and burrs. If there are signs of material shrinkage on plastic elements during cooling, you are dealing with an unscrupulous manufacturer, never buy such goods. Lay out all the elements on a clean surface and study their purpose. Before doing this, read the instructions and familiarize yourself with the attached assembly diagram.

Step 2 Start assembling the kit from the largest part - a flask or other siphon hydraulic seal. Pay attention to which side the cone seals should be placed, they should go into the pipe during tightening and increase in diameter, and not be pressed against the end of the tube.

Step 3 Connect the overflow tube, put the drain grate in place. Make all connections with your hands, do not clamp the elements too tightly. Remove the protective film around the openings before installing the drain and overflow grilles. Let the rest of the surface remain protected, the film is completely removed only after completion of all installation work.

Now you can install an acrylic bath and connect the drain.

Installing an acrylic bathtub

Step 1. Place the bath against the wall and check the position of the sides with a level.

All of them must lie strictly in a horizontal plane. If there are deviations - align them with legs. It is not very convenient to do this, you will have to lie down on the floor under the bath and work in this position. After final alignment, tighten the locknuts until tight. Check if she is standing on all legs. Press in different parts of the bath, if there are wobbles, correct the position of the legs.

If the bath is of high quality, then the slope of the bottom has already been made and all the water will go down the drain. For peace of mind, we recommend checking this indicator: pour some water on the bottom of the tub and see if it all goes away.

Step 2 Mark the location of the side stops.

Without them, using an acrylic bath is prohibited for two reasons. Firstly, the lack of strength of acrylic can cause cracks due to high loads on the sides. Secondly, even slight deformations of the sides cause depressurization of the seam between the bathtub and the wall.

Markup can be done in two ways:

• measure the full height of the bath along the upper edge of the rim;
• from the obtained indicator, subtract the value of the bend of the side to the inner plane;
• at this distance, draw horizontal lines under the level on the walls, the upper part of the side metal grips should lie on this line;
• hold them in that position and mark where to drill holes for the dowels.

This method is considered theoretically correct, but practitioners rarely use it: for a long time and there is a high probability of making a mistake. It is much easier to attach one side stop to the bottom of the bathtub until it stops and mark its location with a pencil. Using a level, draw a horizontal line on two walls. Further along the line, the remaining stops are set to take dimensions for the fixation holes. This not only makes it easier and faster, but also completely eliminates the possibility of error.

Practical advice. If the holes fall into the joints between the tiles or very close to the edges, then it is better to move them. The stops do not have an exact installation location, they can be easily shifted by several centimeters in any direction. And drilling holes in the joints can cause cracking of ceramic tiles, eliminating this problem is not only difficult, but sometimes impossible.

Step 3 Drill holes for dowels.

This should be done carefully, when drilling ceramic tiles, turn off the perforation mode and reduce the speed of the cartridge. The length of the holes should be 1–3 centimeters longer than the plastic elements of the dowels, otherwise they cannot be inserted completely, building dust will interfere.

Step 4 Fasten the side stops. The top edge of all elements must lie on the same line. If for any reason it has shifted - do not be discouraged. Find the dowel that is not fixed correctly and unscrew it. Correct the position of the stop with one dowel, the second can be left out completely. The loads on the elements are insignificant, one fixation point is enough. If there is no doubt, then take out the acrylic bath and reinstall the problem stop.

Step 5 Put the acrylic bath in place. To do this alone is unrealistic, call an assistant. The bath must first be slightly raised above the stops and rest against the wall, and then slowly lowered. At the same time, make sure that the sides sit in their place.

Step 6 Check the position of the legs again, they should all touch the floor. Before the final adjustment, loosen the lock nut a few turns and lower the plastic part of the leg until it stops on the floor. As soon as the load appears, stop increasing the length and firmly fix the position.

It must be remembered that the side stops perform two very important functions: they do not allow the sides to deform and keep the bathtub from moving horizontally. If you do not fix the sides to the wall, then the legs will have to be fixed with dowels to the floor coverings without fail.

Sewer connection

We recommend that you check for leaks very carefully. To do this, put sheets of paper under the joints, let them stay there for 5–10 minutes, water drops are clearly visible on them. Do not rush to close the space under the bathroom. Leaks during operation are difficult to detect, and a long stay of building materials in conditions of high humidity and temperature is fraught with very unpleasant consequences.

Practical advice. You can independently greatly improve the performance of acrylic bathtubs by reducing thermal conductivity. To do this, after installing the siphon with mounting foam, cover the product with foam from the back. You don’t need much, just 5–6 centimeters is enough, and the water in the bathroom will maintain a comfortable temperature for a long time. Before foaming, it is recommended to moisten the bath with a spray gun - on wet surfaces, the foam hardens faster. In addition, the adhesion coefficient of materials is significantly increased.

Step 8 Seal the gaps between the tub and the walls with sealant.

How to do it right, we told in this article above. The algorithm is no different, only care and accuracy will require a little more, use only high-quality materials. In a few months, cheap ones will begin to flake off a little, the seal is broken and water gets under the bath. It is very difficult to remove leaky sealant from an acrylic bath without damaging visible surfaces. We will have to increase the width of the new layer and in this way hide problem areas.

This completes the main installation work. But you can’t leave an acrylic bath in this state, you need to close the space under it. For this, decorative screens are used, they can be purchased or home-made, made of plastic, fiberboard or masonry building materials. Which option to choose is up to you. Just remember that screens made of masonry materials (brick or blocks) are considered the most reliable. But making such screens is long and expensive, and certain skills in performing construction work will be required.

Video - Installation of an acrylic bath

Thanks to the chemical and physical properties of a material such as acrylic, sanitary ware manufacturers can create incredible shapes, sizes and bathtubs. And most importantly, each product is replete with its beauty and grace.

But there is one small minus: the bottom of the bath is not strong enough to withstand a lot of weight, it can sag due to its elasticity. And so that we do not have to risk our own funds, each store offers to purchase an additional frame complete with a bathroom.

The frame is a reinforcing structure that is mounted under the bath bowl, fixing the bottom and sides of the bowl, while protecting the acrylic product from bending and deformation.

In the store, the factory frame will cost at least 2000 rubles, and adding the cost of the bath, it turns out not so attractive amount. Therefore, we want to invite you to assemble this design with your own hands.

Bath frame

Purpose and design features

Plumbing manufacturers recommend purchasing a frame-frame with a bathtub, on which the bathtub will be mounted directly. The product is designed to optimally distribute the load throughout the bowl and completely prevent all kinds of cracks and deflections of the body.

Most retailers offer stock frames designed for certain types of tubs, often the ones they sell. As practice shows, universal models, unfortunately, are not found on sale.

The corresponding frame is a metal profile of a square section, which is necessarily covered with anti-corrosion powder paint.

frame frame

The frame of the product consists of the following parts:

• supports for the bowl itself, mounted in each corner of the bath;
• additional stiffening ribs;
• main legs adjustable in height.

It is these components that determine the strength and reliability of the acrylic bath. Without such a frame, the operation of the bath will be impossible and even dangerous.

Note: some consumers believe that mounting the legs will be enough. However, this is not true. The legs only level the acrylic bathtub above the floor level, but do not hold its walls and bottom in any way.

Indeed, the product is made of high-strength fibers, but they tend to deform under high temperature and pressure. At the same time, neither the walls nor the bottom of the bath can withstand the weight of a person and the pressure of the water.

If you are the owner of an acrylic bath of a complex configuration: an oval, circle or polyhedral bowl, you will need a special platform frame. The usual frame will be unreliable, he will not be able to simply attach the bath to the wall. Such models of acrylic bathtubs will be even more stable than usual ones, because such products have rather wide sides, which allows them to easily lie down on the platform.

Choice

When buying a frame for an acrylic bathtub, experts recommend paying special attention to the frame model that the seller recommends along with the bowl.

Bath stands

Carefully inspect the frame design: if the frame offered to you has a large number of support points, this is a sure sign of the poor quality of the bath itself. Most likely, the model is made of a thin layer of acrylic, unreliable and easily deformed.

The all-welded frame also testifies to the poor quality of the sanitary ware.

If the seller offers you a kit in which the frame has only four points of support, you can judge the good quality of the acrylic bath.

As practice shows, for your own faith and cost savings, it is better to assemble and install the frame of an acrylic bath with your own hands.

Experts note several types of structures:

• brickwork, which completely repeats the shape of the bath; such an option is rather complicated, only a builder, a master of his craft, can perform it, especially in the case of an asymmetric bowl;
• frame made of plywood and timber: a great option for making your own hands; few materials are needed, only plywood of a certain marking, a beam of a specific section, self-tapping screws and drying oil;
• metal frame: you will need profile pipes and metal corners.

Practice shows that for making your own hands, you should choose the last two options: a metal or wooden frame. These two options are best suited for working at home.

frame for acrylic bath

Wood production

We will present you an example of assembling a classic frame made of chipboard and timber for a standard oval bath.

Action algorithm:

• along the perimeter of the bathroom you will install boards that will become the base of the frame;
• racks will be located on this basis;
• on top of the racks you will lay another board, which will later become the top of the frame;
• the top of the frame is covered with a sheet of chipboard (or any thick plywood) and cut a hole for the bathtub.

There is a peculiarity in the last paragraph of our plan: for rectangular bathtubs, it is not necessary to cover the frame with a chipboard sheet, the frame is simply made according to the exact shape of the top of the acrylic bathtub.

It is very important to use waterproof plywood (FK or FSF grades) with a thickness of at least 15 mm, or waterproof chipboard sheets with a thickness of at least 25 mm during the frame manufacturing process.

Calculation of dimensions

First, determine the height of the racks: the size should not exceed the frame, but not be too low. Try to determine the optimal height so that both children and the elderly can comfortably use the bathroom.

The formula for calculating the height of the racks:

• install the bathtub and measure the length from the floor to the bottom edges;
• from the figure obtained, subtract the thickness of the upper boards, the base of the frame, the chipboard or plywood substrate, the tile (for screen cladding) and the mortar on which the tile will be attached.

Once all the calculations are done, we move on to the next step.

brick frame

Foundation preparation

Study the following steps very carefully, as they determine the appearance and reliability of the design.

Work progress:

1. Install boards around the entire perimeter of the future frame.
2. Using concrete screws, attach the boards to the floor.
3. According to the calculations, cut out the required number of racks, take into account the segment near the wall. Then securely attach them to the base.

If you are concerned about the number of racks, everything is simple here: the minimum number is four, located in all corners of the frame. Add each subsequent rack only after 50 cm from the previous segment.

To simplify the installation of racks, you can use metal corners.

Mounting frame for acrylic bath

Now we can safely proceed to install the frame with our own hands.

Sequence of steps:

1. Lay the boards on top of the racks and fasten them with screws. If the board is installed along the wall, it must also be fixed.
2. With a rather thick sheet of chipboard and plywood, you need to cover the frame and attach it around the entire perimeter.
3. Mark out for cutting the hole using a pattern and a long straight bar. Please note that your bathtub may have included a matching template that can greatly simplify the task for you.
4. Cut the hole directly with a jigsaw or hand saw.

At this stage, the manufacture of the do-it-yourself frame for the bath is over. It remains only to mount the bath on the frame and trim the screen.

Wooden frame for acrylic bath

Installing an acrylic bathtub on a frame

Bath installation sequence:

1. To make the bottom of the bath reliable and stable, create a cement pad. If the screen is already lined with ceramic tiles, then after pouring the cement, you can mount the bath. If not, follow these steps:
   • raise the bath above the frame, taking into account the height of the future tile and adhesive under it; as a lining for the bowl, use pieces of plywood or trimming boards of the required thickness;
   • try to lay such gaskets so that the bath is exactly in its place.
2. Gently and carefully lower the tub onto the opening in the frame. For this step, you will need an assistant to eliminate fall and injury options.
3. As soon as the cement hardens, the acrylic bath can be connected to the water supply and sewerage.
4. Now you need to trim the plywood sheets with ceramic tiles. Do not forget to determine the place for the mobile door in the side of the frame.
5. Using the basic rules for working with tiles, finish the outer part of the frame.
6. Be sure to treat all tile joints, cracks and gaps between the bathroom, tile and floor with a hermetic agent.

wooden frame

An example of a metal frame assembly

If you are afraid that the timber will rot from the high humidity in the bathroom, consider assembling a metal frame with your own hands.

In general, the whole course of work is similar to the manufacture of the frame described above, but with several differences:

The principle of assembling a frame for an acrylic bath corresponds to the previous version.

Acrylic bathtubs have rather thin walls and require reliable support. Installing an acrylic bathtub is possible in several ways: using the factory frame that comes with the kit, or on bricks. There is also a combined option - when a frame is used, supporting the bottom in some places with bricks. This method is needed if the bottom turned out to be too thin and “plays” underfoot.

The frame or legs for an acrylic bathtub are sometimes included in the kit, sometimes in an expanded configuration. The difference between the legs and the frame is significant, and not only in price. Legs mounted on slats are attached only to the reinforced bottom, usually with two or four self-tapping screws. At the same time, the sides remain without support (below, photo on the left). The frame, most often, is more massive, made of a thicker profiled pipe (square section), has more support points. Part of the supports comes from the sides of the bath, the other part is attached to the bottom, propping it up (photo on the right).

Options for completing acrylic bathtubs - legs and frame

Regardless of the type of frame, it must be attached to the bottom. To do this, holes are drilled in the bottom in the right places, into which self-tapping screws are then screwed. This moment is not to be feared. This is an acrylic bathtub installation technology. In places of fastening there are reinforcement plates. But, in order not to damage the bathtub, carefully read the instructions before starting installation, it contains the dimensions of the fasteners that can be used.

Installing an acrylic bath on a frame

For each bath, the frame is developed differently, therefore the assembly nuances are different for each case. Even for one company, for different models of the same form, the frames are different. They take into account the geometry of the bath, as well as the distribution of loads. Nevertheless, the order of work is general, as are some technical points.

We twist the frame

A frame is assembled on which the bottom rests. In some cases, it is welded and does not require assembly. The frame is laid on the bottom of the inverted tub until nothing is fixed. It is exposed exactly, as it must be attached.

Fixing the bathtub to the frame

After the frame is level, it is screwed to the reinforced bottom of the acrylic bath. It is necessary to use self-tapping screws of the recommended length, which are included with the frame.

Screen mounting

This is not quite the installation of an acrylic bath, but this stage is rarely dispensed with: we install the screen. If you bought this option, the kit comes with plates that will support it. They are placed along the edges and in the middle. After attaching the screen and adjusting the stops on the legs, fix them in the desired position. Then, on the bath and the screen, the places where the plates need to be fixed are marked, then holes are drilled for the fasteners and the screen is fixed.

The procedure for mounting an acrylic bathtub on legs

Assembling an acrylic bathtub with legs is much easier and faster - the design is elementary. The set includes two planks, four legs with pins, fixing an acrylic bathtub to the wall, a number of nuts and self-tapping screws.

Marking and assembly of the frame

In an acrylic bathtub with legs, the frame is two planks that are attached to the bottom. These bars come with adjustable legs. The task is to screw the planks evenly, install the legs and level the entire structure. Not too difficult.

Find the middle of the mounting strips and the bottom of the bath, put marks. Aligning the marks of the middle, two mounting strips lay a non-inverted bathtub, stepping back a little from the edge of the reinforcing plate (3-4 cm), install the strips. With a pencil or marker, mark the installation locations of the fasteners (there are holes in the planks).

According to the marks, holes are drilled to a depth of about 1 cm (you can stick colored tape on the drill to make it easier to control the depth). The drill diameter is selected 1-2 mm less than the diameter of the self-tapping screws (indicated in the instructions or can be measured). After installing the strips and aligning the holes, we fasten them to the self-tapping screws (included).

The next step is to install the legs. They are assembled in the same way as in the previous version: one lock nut is screwed on, the rod is inserted into the hole on the mounted bar, fixed with another nut. An additional nut is needed on the legs on the screen mounting side (pictured).

Next, turn the bath over, expose it in a horizontal plane, twisting the legs. The position is controlled by the building level. Then you need to install a mount on the walls, with the help of which the board is fixed to the walls.

The bath, set in terms of level and height, is put in place, we note where the sides end. We take the mounting plate, apply it to the mark so that its upper edge is 3-4 mm lower, mark the hole for the fasteners. The number of fasteners is different - one or two dowels, as well as the number of fixing plates on the wall (one or two on the wall, depending on the dimensions). We drill holes, insert plastic plugs from dowels, put clamps, fasten.

Now you can install an acrylic bath - we raise it so that the sides are higher than the plates installed on the wall. We lower, pressing the sides against the wall, they cling to the fixing plates. Installation of an acrylic bathtub on legs is completed. Next - connect the drain and you can use it.

The assembly of such an acrylic bath takes a little time. But the construction is very flimsy. Not every adult feels confident. The bottom bends, the legs slide on the tile. Pleasure is below average.

There is also a combined installation option. This is when put on legs and bricks is shown in the next video. After assembly, two bricks are laid on the mortar, a significant layer of mortar is laid on top (it must be kneaded with low plasticity, adding a minimum of water). When you put the bath in place, part of the solution is squeezed out, it is carefully picked up, the edges of the remaining part are corrected. The bath is loaded (it can be filled with water) and left for several days - so that the solution grabs.

We put on bricks

Installation on bricks requires accuracy and accuracy - it is necessary to set the support evenly so that the sides of the bath are in a horizontal plane.

They usually put on two or three rows of bricks laid on the bed (on the wide part). The number of bricks depends on the placement of the sewer outlet. A thin layer of mortar is laid between the bricks. The bath is placed on bricks, the horizontalness of the sides is checked, if necessary, corrected by changing the thickness of the solution between the bricks (we do not impose anything on the upper ones yet).

Having exposed, we mark on the wall at what level the sides are. At this mark, a corner is attached that will support the sides of the bath. It is better to take an aluminum corner, the width of the shelf is 3 cm, the thickness is 2-3 mm.

To give the base an aesthetic look, you can wrap them with a plaster mesh, plaster. In fact, plaster also reduces the hygroscopicity of red brick, extending the life of the support. So this step is not to be skipped.

Having bent the paint grid, a solid layer of cement-sand mortar is applied to the tops of the bricks. A solid layer of sanitary silicone is applied to the corner, after which a bath is installed. We move it to the wall evenly so that the gaps between the side and the wall are even.

We select the extruded silicone, forming a beautiful seam. You can smooth it out with a teaspoon. If you lead it without tearing your hand from edge to edge, you get an even and smooth seam. Then we remove the extruded solution. We remove the silicone earlier - it "grabs" faster. The solution must be picked up no later than 20-30 minutes after laying, so we also do not tighten it.

If the silicone was not enough and it did not squeeze out, it's not scary. We form a seam by filling the gap with silicone from above. This completes the installation of the acrylic bathtub on the bricks. Next - connecting the siphon and finishing, and this is not entirely relevant to this topic.

Sealing the junction of the bath and the wall

No matter how tightly you put the bathtub against the wall, the gap still remains. With acrylics, the problem is complicated by the fact that their sides in the middle sag a little inward. Therefore, simply sealing the gap with silicone will not work. Additional funds are needed.

The easiest way to fix the tape is that it is sold in rolls. One is enough for sealing from three sides. Shelf width 20 mm and 30 mm. The tape is rolled out along the edge of the bath, fixed to the silicone.

There are also various corners for the bath. They are made of plastic, and the edges are rubberized - so that the joint is tighter and the seams between the tiles do not flow. The profiles and shape of the corners are different. There are those that are mounted on top of the tile, there are those that run under it. And they may be different shapes and colors.

Regardless of the shape, they are installed in the same way: in the corners, the lower parts are cut at an angle of 45 °. The quality of the joint is checked. Then the surface of the wall, side and corner is degreased (preferably with alcohol), silicone is applied, on which the corner is installed. Everything is left for the time required for the polymerization of the sealant (indicated on the tube). After that, you can use the bathroom.

In the case of acrylic bathtubs, there is one caveat: before applying the sealant, they are filled with water, and in this state the composition is left to polymerize. Otherwise, when water is collected and the load on the sides increases, microcracks will appear on it, into which water will flow.

A few words about which sealant is better to use when sealing the junction of the bath and the wall. Most the best way- sealant for aquariums. It is no less durable than plumbing, but it has some additives, thanks to which it does not get moldy, does not change color and does not bloom.

A place for a bathroom should be equipped in every house and apartment, good plumbing in the bathroom and toilet will help to achieve ease of use of these premises. If you have to repair the shower room and replace all the contents, then you should take care of the correct choice of new equipment and its competent installation. If you need to choose a bath, then the most popular, relatively inexpensive and easy to install option is an acrylic product that will become a functional decoration for any shower room.

Peculiarities

Repair of any room is important, and even more so of the bathroom, because everything is put here not for a year or two, but for at least five or ten years. The most important element of the arrangement will not be working with wall surfaces, but the choice of a bath and its correct installation. There are many options for modern fonts: these are cast-iron, steel, stone and acrylic varieties. Each type has its advantages and disadvantages, but the acrylic product is now considered the most popular.

For an acrylic bathtub, it is important to create the right care conditions so that the surface is dry., clean and not exposed to abrasive materials or harsh chemicals. Only in this case it will be possible to count on long-term use and preservation of proper appearance. The advantage of acrylic is that it is very light, but at the same time it is easy to break if the impact force is higher than normal. Due to the characteristics of such a product, an important step will be the process of its installation.

Installing an acrylic bathtub in a shower is quite simple, because it is light enough to comfortably carry out the work of installing a drain and any other manipulations. Due to the fragility of the product, the desire to save the bath has become a necessity, for which the best solution is to build a frame. Installing the font in such a design minimizes the risk of cracks and any other damage to the outer layer. The place under the bath in this case is completely foamed or clogged with mineral wool so as not to create a hollow space.

This is just one of several options for how an acrylic product can be installed.

No less popular, but simpler and cheaper, is the placement of a bathing place. on the floor through the use of legs, which can be included or purchased individually based on the dimensions and weight of the equipment. If this method does not inspire due confidence, then an alternative may be to mount the bath on a metal frame, which can be ordered for a specific product or welded independently.

Whichever option is chosen, the most important thing for comfortable use of the shower is a quality product and proper care behind him. If you are careful and do not drop heavy objects into an acrylic font, then there will be nothing to worry about, the bathing area will always be attractive, and the process itself will be as convenient as possible.

Preparation of tools and materials

The process of installing an acrylic bathtub with your own hands requires the preparation of a place where the future object will be located, the necessary materials and tools. It is important to create a full-fledged working environment so that nothing interferes in the room, then the procedure will take place at an optimal pace and the quality of the repair will be at its best.

For full-fledged work on the installation of an acrylic bath, you must have with you:

• the product itself to be installed;
• materials for a specific type of fastening: legs, frame, bricks;
• a hammer;
• Bulgarian;
• perforator;
• silicone sealant;
• level;
• wrench;
• electrical tape or mounting tape;
• corrugated pipe;
• brackets with which the bath will be fixed to the floor or to the wall.

In order for the repair process to proceed correctly, it is important to do everything in a certain order:

• blocking the water supply;
• dismantling of the old bath;
• replacement of the old drain;
• sewer cleaning;
• installation of a new corrugation in the sewer socket;
• lubrication of the junction of the corrugation with the sewer;
• the process of leveling the floor for new equipment.

Once all the work is done, you can proceed with the installation of a new acrylic product.

It is best to decide in advance which mounting option will be used in order to have everything you need with you.

Mounting methods

Installation work on installing a bathtub has always been a complex process that cannot be done without professionals. Due to their large dimensions and heavy weight, only those who knew well what to do and how to do it could handle metal containers. New materials made it possible to create a lighter variation of the same piece of plumbing, which made it possible to work independently.

Installation of an acrylic bath can be done in several ways, depending on which the necessary design and materials for it are selected.

There are four main options for how exactly you can complete the installation, these are:

• use of legs
• installation on a metal frame, which must be pre-assembled;
• the manufacture of brick supports on which the font is placed;
• making a brick podium where the product is lowered.

In addition to these options, there are also combinations that have their own characteristics. When choosing the right type of installation, it is important to take into account the dimensions of the bath: if the dimensions are 170x70 cm, then all possible ways, for more compact ones it will be convenient to leave the legs, because the weight is significantly reduced, and for more bulky ones it is better to make a podium.

If there is no experience in installing a bath, then it is better to use the services of professionals., because the material of the product is very fragile, and any carelessness will lead to a crack or hole. In addition, it is necessary to proceed to repair work as soon as possible after purchase, because storage in the wrong position and inappropriate conditions can change the shape of the bowl.

The installation process itself is different for each option, and before starting work, you need to study the features of each in order to choose the most suitable one for specific conditions.

On legs

The easiest way to install the bath is to install it on the support legs. Often they come already in the kit and are matched to the product. In order to fix the supports, you usually do not need a lot of tools, but sometimes it is necessary to make holes for the fasteners. If the situation forces such actions, then the drill is taken for woodworking, and the hole is made at low tool speeds.

The very process of installing the legs comes down to securely fixing them and putting them in the right place, which will give the necessary height for installing pipes and a siphon.

In fact, the work consists of two stages.

• The process of fastening the legs, which are installed in special places provided by the manufacturer. Usually they are marked with a special sticker or some kind of symbol so that you can easily identify the landing site of the supports. In some cases, the hole for the fastener is already drilled, and in some it is not. It is important to use exactly the allocated places and make holes where necessary, otherwise the body weight of a person during bathing will be unevenly distributed over the bath, and it will be damaged.
• The process of adjusting the support legs. Almost all modern structures that require installation on supports can be adjusted relative to the height from the floor. This makes it possible to adjust the plumbing to the needs of the residents. Tall people will find it convenient to place the font more than 15 cm from the floor, and people with average height and below it will need to lower the bottom slightly less than the standard height.

First of all, you need to install the bath against the wall, and then proceed to screwing the legs. The next step is to align the product along a horizontal line, for which it is useful building level, which is placed on the side of the bath. The process of adjusting the supports in finished form is carried out with a wrench.

When the height of the bowl is at the optimum level, the legs are fixed, and the work moves to the wall, to which it is also necessary to attach the product. For this process, it is necessary to install hooks made of plastic or metal in advance, and later screw the bathtub to the wall with their help. Once the job is done, last step there will be sealing of the seams, which is carried out with the help of silicone sealant.

They process all the joints of the bath with the walls.

On the frame

If there is a desire to make a reliable mount for an acrylic bath, then its installation with the help of a frame will be the most suitable. This process is not too complicated, but requires knowledge of the case and strict adherence to the instructions.

Let's consider the procedure.

• Frame assembly. This design is bought in advance, the instructions for it are being studied. With the help of self-tapping screws, which are provided in the kit, part by part is twisted.
• Installation of the finished structure on the bath. For this process, it must be turned over, and then put on the frame. Fixation is carried out with the help of racks and spiers, which are screwed to the bath. You need to place them from the center, first - those near the wall, there should be two of them, and then - two from the front panel, you need three of them.
• When it was possible to fix the frame, plastic legs with heels are screwed to the finished structure, which regulate the height of the entire product, which should not be higher than 65 cm.
• Only after that, the bath can be turned over and checked whether all the elements are installed correctly and whether the font is level.

• If necessary, the bathing container can be attached to the wall additionally, for this a metal hook or corner is used.
• The next step is to connect the siphon and overflow.
• Having received an almost finished design, you can begin to install a mixer, which must be selected correctly based on the functions that it will perform in the room.
• To hide from strangers the type of installation and the type of metal structure, it is better to install a decorative screen. It can be plastic, wooden, finished with decorative tiles, it all depends on preferences and possibilities.

Using a frame will allow you to securely fix the bath and prevent it from moving. In addition, the mass of the one who bathes is better distributed this way, and the bowl definitely does not deform.

To avoid noise from water on the surface, you can fill the space under the bath, which will give the effect of soundproofing.

On supports

You can mount an acrylic bath not only on legs and a frame, but also on supports. The most convenient option for them would be a simple brick. With only twelve pieces, you can build four supports, on which you can install a bathing container. Unlike the podium, which also requires the presence of bricks, in this case the construction is light and no extra pressure is created on the shower floor.

To put the bath on supports, you must follow a certain sequence of actions.

• After dismantling everything superfluous in the room, you need to bring in new plumbing, it is better not to unpack it so as not to damage it, and then make marks for future supports.
• It is necessary to rationally distribute the supports in relation to the length of the bath. If it is large, then it is worth placing three columns in length, if it is small, two are enough. It is important to place one under the bath on the bottom and two at the edges of the product.

• After marking, remove the font and start laying out the columns. Their height should be no more than 20 cm so that the bathtub is not higher than 65 cm above the floor.
• The brick is placed on the mortar, which must dry for at least 12 hours, but it is better to wait 24 hours for complete confidence in the strength of the structure.
• When the supports are ready, the bath is installed. It is important to fill its joint with a brick with silicone sealant.
• For reliability, it is necessary to install metal corners or hooks on which the font is mounted.

If there are concerns about the thermal conductivity or strength of the acrylic material, it is possible to cover the bottom of the bathtub with foam before installation, which will help to avoid these problems.

To the podium

In the event that there is a desire to make beautiful, and, most importantly, robust design under an acrylic bath, then the best way would be to build a podium, especially if it is a corner option for placing plumbing. To do this, you need a fairly large number of bricks and a number of tools. By following all the steps correctly, you can get a decent result.

Installation work consists of several stages.

• Dismantling of everything extraneous and unnecessary in the new shower room. Bringing in new plumbing in a film and installing it in the intended place. In this case, in addition to the guideline for the construction of the frame, it is necessary to note the place for draining.
• The construction of a brick podium using a special mortar is done until the height of the finished structure is 60 cm.
• When the brickwork is ready, using moisture-resistant plywood, a frame is cut that is slightly higher than the podium in order to cover the foam area between the masonry and the bath.

• The brick podium must be covered with one layer of foam and plywood attached to it.
• Installing the bathtub on the finished podium and checking the evenness of the structure with a level.
• For the correct solidification of the foam, you need to draw water into the bath, about half and wait about a day.
• Connecting a bathing tank to a drain with overflow and mounting it on a finished podium using corners or hooks.

When installing plumbing of this type, you should not make any slopes to the drain, because this is already provided for in the design of the product itself.

To give the podium a finished look, you can veneer it with decorative tiles directly on the bricks.

Combined options

In order not to overload the floor of the apartment with the installation of the podium, you can make a strong and reliable support for the acrylic bath using legs and bricks at the same time. It is important to correctly calculate the height of the brick structure and raise the font to the same height with the help of legs. To cope with such work is not easy, but with the desire and diligence it is possible.

To facilitate the task, you must first put the bathing bowl on the legs and choose the optimal height for this plumbing, after which the distance between the floor and the bottom of the bath is determined. This makes it possible to understand what width and height the brickwork will have. The brick structure should not be located close to the bottom of the bath; a gap of one centimeter should be left between them, which is later filled with foam.

You can use another option, when a flat base is erected from bricks, which serves as a support for the bottom, and the legs already fix the entire structure so that it does not stagger and stands securely.

In this case, you should also not allow the brick to contact the bottom, leaving a gap for the foam.

• If it is planned to install an acrylic bathtub in the shower room, which will replace the cast-iron one, then it is important to know the features of working with the new material and decide on the installation method that is most suitable for specific conditions. After dismantling, first of all, you need to put the wall in order, level it and putty.
• Installing acrylic plumbing on your own is quite simple, because it is light in weight, but it is better to have an assistant who will assist with any carrying of the product, which will protect the fragile surface of the new bathtub from damage.
• When installing a hot tub, the first thing to take care of is leveling it with the floor so that the structure stands securely and checking the height of the legs so that the tub does not stagger. When installing the product on a brick base, it is important to monitor the level of the supports after each new layer, so that subsequently there is no skew of the plumbing.

If this problem cannot be resolved, it is worth considering changing the installation method of the product. If there is a desire to make sure that the bathing container does not swing at all, then the best option would be to build a podium. This option is perfect for residents of the ground floor or a private house, and in old high-rise buildings it is better to refrain from such a significant weighting of the floor of the house.

• If it is not possible to build something bulky, strengthening the acrylic bath can be done using a metal frame or a combined version using legs and brickwork. The choice of option depends on the skills, working conditions and dimensions of the font. After completion of the installation work, it is necessary to close the joints of the bathtub with the wall. This can be done with a sealant. But it is better to use a plastic corner, which is cut at 45 degrees at the base so that it can be glued evenly to the surface.

• The installation of the bathtub must be comprehensive, taking into account the parameters of the height of the bathtub bottom from the floor, so that the drain and siphon can be easily mounted and ensure optimal comfort of use. The average bowl height in a shower should be between 50 and 60 cm for people of average height and 70 cm for tall people. The frame, legs, supports or podium should be erected only after it has been measured optimal height for members of a particular family, taking into account all its features, the presence of children or people with disabilities.

Installing a bathtub with your own hands is a rather complicated matter. A bathtub is a bulky item that requires careful handling; chipping off the enamel is easy, but. Steel and plastic bathtubs must be turned very carefully: the coating may crack from deformation. It is impossible to warp a cast-iron bath, but it is so heavy and strong that it can break a wall or a door by itself. In addition, the installation of the bath has to be done in a cramped room. Therefore, the first condition for self installation baths are a strong skillful assistant. One or with a stupid weak helper can not cope.

The second point is the installation of bathroom plumbing fixtures. This will have to be done almost by touch. That is, you can not be white-handed. You must have developed a tactile sense; Simply put - your hands must be not only strong, but also skillful. And the third point is attentiveness and accuracy. An instrument accidentally dropped into the tub can cause irreparable damage. And if the bath is acrylic, then blind holes will have to be drilled in it. Here you need to be extremely careful: it is very easy to pierce acrylic with a drill.

Which bath to choose

If it is planned to replace the bath, and not transfer the existing one, then you need to immediately decide which one to take:

1. Steel ("tin") cheap and easy to work. strong man with working skills, a plumber can install one alone. But it is short-lived - it “plays” when water is filled / released, which does not benefit the enamel. A steel bathtub can be recommended if the bathroom is small and the bathtub can be installed close to three walls; in this case, the deformations from alternating loads are reduced by an order of magnitude.
2. Cast iron- eternal, with proper handling, but expensive. Working with her is very difficult: hard. And it's not just about weight: it's almost impossible to put a cast-iron bath on already without damaging it. The siphon has to be attached to the bathtub in advance, but, turning the bathtub, again, it is easy to damage it. In addition, if the bath is on decorative open legs, then leveling it is a chore, and adjustable legs break easily from lateral force, for example, if someone slips and flops in it. So a cast-iron bathtub with adjustable legs can only be recommended for installation between three walls.
3. Plastic (acrylic) bathtubs last up to 15-20 years. It is expensive, but cheaper than cast iron. You need to work with it together, but without strain, as with cast iron, and without any particular difficulties. Damaged coatings are easier to repair than enamel. It can be said that it is an ideal option, with the exception: aggressive detergents, either concentrated or in an aqueous solution, must not enter the acrylic bath. In fact, you can only swim in it.

About bath heat loss

At the current prices for hot water, washing in the bath is a luxury, and cheaper prices are not expected. In this regard, the heat loss of the bathroom becomes important. In ascending order, the baths are arranged as follows:

• Acrylic- the most economical. It warms up instantly and cools down very slowly: plastic is a poor conductor of heat. If a temperature of 60 degrees is set on the boiler, then to fill an ordinary semi-recumbent acrylic bathtub with water at 40 degrees, its capacity of 50 liters is enough.
• Steel- not at all economical, as it might seem. It warms up quickly, but also effectively gives off heat into space, in the form of infrared radiation. A boiler is needed for 80 liters, or on a 50-liter one, you need to set the upper temperature limit to 80 degrees. But at such a temperature, in just a month or two, an expensive magnesium protector in it will “burn out”.
• Cast iron bath- a calorie eater. And she warms up for a long time, and gives off heat well: metal after all. A boiler is needed for at least 100 liters, and for the money - washing in a cast-iron bath will cost 1.5 times more than in steel, and 2.5 times more expensive than in acrylic.

Bathroom preparation

Walls

If the installation of a new bathtub is timed to coincide with the repair of the bathroom, then it is better to postpone the wall cladding "for later", after the installation of the bathtub. Why? Here, we put the bath close to the bare wall, made the waterproofing of the gaps (see below). We start tiling from the bottom, from the bath. The overhanging lower edge of the tile (it also needs to be waterproofed after laying the tile) forms a kind of teardrop, which greatly reduces the likelihood of rot and mold.

Note: in In this case, an incomplete row of tiles in height will be visible. For the sake of preserving the decorative qualities of the cladding, it is better to put it in the middle of the height of the wall - it looks worse under the ceiling. If this strip along the wall is made of tiles of a different color, then it can turn out even more beautiful than expected.

If there is only a bath replacement, then a new one on legs, the adjusting screws of which are turned out 3/4 or 4/5, should be at least 2 cm higher than the old one. If the new one turns out to be lower, then it will be difficult to make the gap that appears aesthetically pleasing: although the facing tile does not burn out, dirt has eaten into its previously hidden part, which cannot be removed.

Floor

The floor under the bath must be flat and durable; especially - under the cast-iron, which weighs a lot even empty. In this case, you need to make sure that the tiles on the floor are laid on solid cement with extrusion, and not on the “comb”. Under the weight of the bathtub, tiles can crack from the slightest void underneath.

Note: in order not to re-lay the floor and not care about its strength at all, you can lay two larch boards (logs) on the floor (it is from it, only teak is suitable from other wood, but it is not widely available). The boards are laid along so that the legs of the bath fall on them. The tree must be, and then proliferated or impregnated with PVA putty through and through. A wooden pillow will not only distribute the load on the floor, but will also solve all problems with the height of the bath, see below. However, before waterproofing the gaps and / or cladding, the boards need to shrink: fill the bathtub with water to the top and hold it for at least two days, and preferably a week.

bathtub height

The installation height of the bathroom is important not only for its interface with the wall cladding and the convenience of plumbing work. A higher raised bath will allow you to install a siphon with a deeper knee. This is important primarily for hygiene purposes: the deeper the siphon, the less likely it is for any infection from the sewer to seep through it in the reverse order.

Then, the flow from the high bath will go more intense. How long it takes to empty is not so important. Another thing is important: an additional rise of the bath by only 4-5 cm with the right drain fittings almost completely eliminates the accumulation of hair on the drain grid and in the siphon. Anyone who has ever taken out this, to put it mildly, very, very unattractive lump, knows what this means.

Selection of drain fittings

Material

Bathtub drain fittings are mainly made from two types of plastic: PVC and polyisopropylene. The second can be recognized by greater hardness and smoothness. Propylene reinforcement is more expensive, but has important advantages over vinyl:

1. Polyisopropylene is several times stronger than PVC; accordingly, the probability of damage to the siphon during installation is less.
2. Polyisopropylene is durable and resistant to aggressive environments, it does not become brittle over time.
3. The microstructure of the surface of polyisopropylene is smoother than PVC, and is not tuberculate, but striated. Therefore, propylene plumbing is much less prone to clogging than PVC.
4. Due to the same smoothness, the hydraulic resistance of propylene pipes is one and a half times lower than that of PVC. That is, a propylene overflow hose with the same cross section will let more water pass through itself, and there is less risk of flooding neighbors.

typical bathroom drain assembly diagram

Drain

Do not take the "Chinese" drain, assembled on a bolt. The bolt will rust even if the mesh is stainless steel. Within a month, the rust will seize the bolt so that it will be impossible to disassemble the drain: in which case it will be necessary to break it down and install a new one. There is no point in changing the bolt to brass or bronze: the material will turn green and grab in the same way. And it’s also pointless to sharpen a stainless steel bolt to order: you don’t know the grade of steel from which the mesh is made. Therefore, a bolt from another stainless steel in water with a mesh forms a galvanic couple, electrocorrosion will immediately begin with the same setting.

Drain mesh

Also, do not take a drain with a grid in the form of a cross of two crossbars. Such a net is a very good hair catcher, and it is difficult and disgusting to tear them out of there. A grid of circular holes arranged around the circumference is better. But the best (and most expensive) option is a mesh of oblique profiled slots. In a bath with such a drain, you can manually wash the carpet, calico, flannel, and the drain will not clog, and the mesh will remain clean.

cork chain

The usual cork chain is soon torn, and in any case covered with a coating of salts, which does not add to the attractiveness of the bath. There are drains with remote controlled plugs, but they are expensive and prone to breakage. Therefore, advice: immediately replace the chain with a thick, 0.8 - 1.5 mm, fishing line, better colored, it is clearly visible in the water.

overflow pipe

Do not take hard - this is a relic of the past. A flexible corrugated hose is more convenient to install, and its clearance with the same outer diameter is larger, which means that there is less chance of overflow.

Bath installation

Tools and materials

To install the bath you will need some special tool:

• Rule. This is a flat rigid bar the length of the diagonal of the bath. Needed to level the bathtub. Aligning diagonally even an amateur does in two steps, and aligning along the sides requires 4-6 iterations, and it often turns out that the drain cracked after that.
• Fork wrench for tightening the release parts. You can’t grab it with adjustable pliers, and it’s extremely inconvenient with pliers, and you can damage it.

Small rubber mallet. It is needed to shrink the legs of the bath during its assembly. Tapping with a metal hammer due to resonance can cause microcracks in the enamel, and a wooden mallet will not give the necessary force and accuracy of impact.

Note: like a rubber hammer, you can adapt a chasing hammer by pulling a piece of durite hose over its spherical butt.

Of the materials, you will need silicone sealant (sealants based on MS are expensive and do not have significant advantages over silicone) and cotton (“rag”) electrical tape if the bath is acrylic. A drill stopper is made from electrical tape. PVC tape slips easily. But an absolutely reliable drilling depth limiter is a piece of the same durite hose, tightly stretched over the drill.



About leveling and pairing the outlet with the sewer

The basic principle of alignment is to raise the lowered corner, not to lower the raised one. Remember, the higher the bath, the cleaner the drain. But, if a rigid rubber cuff is used to interface the outlet pipe of the bathtub with the sewer, then it may simply not fit into place, or turn out if already installed, or the drain may break.

Therefore, the final pairing with the sewer must be done after alignment, and the cuff should be taken soft, from micropork or neoprene, so that the drain outlet can become tilted. Instead of a cuff, it is preferable to use raw rubber or soft rubber sealant - it looks like white plasticine. The connection on it is absolutely reliable; estimated service life - 100 years. In the USSR, it was known as "military sealant".

But the easiest option is to purchase drain fittings with a wider outlet pipe so that the gap can simply be filled with silicone. It is impossible to blow out with mounting foam: it expands greatly when it hardens; the influx from the inside can block the outlet, and everything will have to be redone.

Actually, diagonal alignment is done like this:

1. The rule is laid diagonally on the bathtub, a level is placed on it and horizontal is achieved by tightening the adjusting bolts of the legs.
2. Transfer the rule to another diagonal, repeat the procedure.
3. Check if the initial diagonal has gone astray. If the floor is level, this does not happen.

When leveling along the sides, the level is placed on the side of the bath and the legs of this side are adjusted. Then they move to the other side, but after leveling there, the horizontality of the original side goes astray, and you have to repeat the procedure several times, gradually approaching the overall horizontality.

Note: it is necessary to achieve exactly horizontality. The inclination of the bottom of the bath bowl to the drain is already provided.

Sewer preparation

The branch pipe of the sewer pipe and the pipe itself must be dry from the inside for reliable sealing. Firstly, for this, when installing a bath, in no case should there be a drain from the kitchen.

Secondly, the sewer pipe and the pipe half a meter to the sides must be well dried from the inside. Plaque can not be cleaned off if it is small, but it must be dried thoroughly. This is done, as you probably already guessed, by the wife's hair dryer, which can not always be correctly understood.

Therefore, on the day of installing the bath, try to send your family somewhere. Except, perhaps, for an adult son - an assistant.

Scheme-example of installing a bath:



Installing an acrylic bath

To install an acrylic bath, you will first have to attach complete guides (lodgements) for legs to its bottom. They are installed across the bottom on special complete self-tapping screws.

The marking of the fastenings of the lodgements for self-tapping screws is done strictly according to the instructions. If nothing is said about it, then the positions of the lodgements are standard: front 7 inches (17.78 or just 17-18 cm) from the inner edge of the drain hole along the length; back - at the place where the bowl passes into the back rounding.

The lodgements are applied perpendicular to the longitudinal axis of the bath, the drilling points are marked with a pencil through the mounting holes in them, and they are drilled with a drill with a limiter. Drilling depth - 3/4 of the length of the body of the self-tapping screw.

Then the previously inverted bathtub is placed on its side and drain fittings are mounted. There are nuances here:

• All gaskets are lubricated with silicone before installation.
• The drain gasket is installed OUTSIDE.
• The gasket between the overflow and the overflow hose is conical, i.e. wedge-shaped in section. It must be placed with the tip of the wedge to the edge of the hose, so that when tightened, it will be pressed into the spacer.
• Threaded connections do not tighten tightly.

The bath is turned upside down again, the legs are mounted. The adjusting screws are screwed in with a measurement so that they protrude equally. Next, the bath is turned over and brought into the bathroom; a more experienced worker should be on the side of the drain.

Then the bath is carefully put in place, moving close to the walls. At the same time, an experienced one makes sure that the outlet of the bath gets into the sewer pipe. Then the bath is leveled, the outlet is sealed. Until the sealant has hardened, the joints are tightly tightened with a fork wrench: who is larger, sits in the bath and holds, and who has smaller hands, bends, reaches out and twists: all turnkey places are outside. After the sealant hardens (if it is silicone; if it is a soft sealant, immediately), check for leaks.

If it does not flow, or is eliminated, the gaps between the sides of the bathtub and the walls are sealed with the same silicone. Streaks and influxes of silicone are immediately removed with a rag soaked in vinegar. It remains to install the screen, but more on that later.

steel bath

The installation of a steel bath is done in the same way as an acrylic one, with the exception of the legs: they are inserted into regular fasteners and fixed with bolts, nuts on threaded studs or wedges. You need to fix it tightly, but gradually, shaking the legs and tapping them with a rubber mallet. The legs should sit in their places like a glove.

Here, too, there is a nuance: if the backlash of the fastening of the legs allows, you need to lay pieces of rubber from the car camera under their surfaces in contact with the bath bowl. Then the bath will ring less when filled with water.



Cast iron bath

The installation of a cast-iron bath has its own characteristics: it is very heavy, and it is risky to turn it around for the environment. Therefore, if the dimensions of the bathroom allow, the “naked” bathtub should be immediately brought there, and there it should already be equipped with a drain and legs. If the bath is on decorative legs, then its alignment is also done in a “naked” form on the spot, and only then proceed to the equipment.

Leveling a bathtub on decorative legs is a time-consuming and extremely responsible operation. Leg pads negate aesthetics, and filing legs requires precise measurements and professional skills. And each time such a bath needs to be dragged out, turned over, and then again put on legs and dragged. Therefore, for a bathtub on decorative legs, the floor of the bathroom needs to be increased in advance.

It is also inconvenient and risky to put a cast-iron bathtub on its side for drain installation. Therefore, it should be immediately placed on two strong boards, and to install the drain, raise the front edge by placing chocks or bricks under them. And work extremely carefully: a “splashed” bath guarantees a broken arm or a crushed hand.

plastic bath

On sale there are cheap substitutes for acrylic bathtubs. When installing such a plastic bathtub, in addition to a particularly careful attitude towards it, it is necessary to put several larch chocks under the bottom, processed, like logs under the legs, into the spacer. With such a pillow, a very budget bath may well last a dozen years.



Screen

The bath screen can be either complete or complete. A lot of self-made screens are described, and their designs differ in a surprising variety for such a simple device. Only one recommendation can be singled out: do not bring the screen to the floor by 5-6 cm. The trash under the bathroom will still not be visible, but such a gap will reduce the likelihood of damaging the screen with a kick.

For complete screens, a groove or latches are provided at the bottom of the bathtub. In this case, sealing the outlet into the sewer and the gaps between the bathroom and the wall is done last. The installation of the screen under the bath is carried out with the bath already leveled and standing in place, the outlet of which is still hanging in the air in the middle of the sewer outlet.

The bath is lifted, the screen is pushed into place, and the bath is carefully lowered until the top of the screen goes into the groove or catches the latches. Then the outlet and cracks are sealed. To seal the outlet, complete screens are provided with hatches or sliding doors.

Note:


1. If the complete screen is deaf, then you need to look for drain fittings with a flexible corrugated outlet pipe. Then the sealing of the interface with the sewer is done in advance. But this is not the best option: the maintainability of such a drain is zero.
2. For a bathtub with a complete screen, a bedding made of lags under the legs is not applicable, except perhaps in some way to raise the screen. And you need to align such a bath not only horizontally, but also along the height of the screen.

In general, the best thing is not a complete and not home-made, but a purchased bath screen. Such screens are supplied with adjustable legs. They can even be adapted to a bathtub standing still: wrap the legs all the way, move them forward, and turn them away until they rest against the bottom of the bathtub.

Summary

Self-installation of a bathtub, especially a cast-iron bathtub, is hard and complicated work. A beginner can be recommended to independently install only an acrylic or steel bath.