How to make an iron stove in the bath. Do-it-yourself metal sauna stove: drawings, photos, videos. Drawings of a metal sauna stove: the simplest designs

- of course, a heating stove for a bath. Modern industrial production offers many models to replace traditional wood-burning heaters: liquid fuel, gas with a metal case, pellets. Factory products are equipped with many functions and are economical in fuel consumption. Yes, they have minimal maintenance.

There are many options for home-made devices for a steam room, depending on the type of room. For example, there are so-called cold ovens, that is, those in which the outer walls do not warm up above 50 ° C. This is an important advantage, since such a design does not allow you to get burned. Such units require long continuous kindling. Heating occurs through special air ducts. They take in air from the floor and heat it up, passing through the combustion chamber. Warm and soft steam comes out from above without burning anyone. In such a bath, it is easy to regulate the level of humidity and heating temperature.

Unlike "cold" ovens, "hot" ovens quickly and efficiently heat up the steam room due to hot walls, the temperature of which can reach up to 100°C. Careless touching them threatens with burns, and the degree of air heating in this case is difficult to control. And it threatens with a heatstroke.

from brick

A solid and simple “cold” sauna stove structurally looks like this: the combustion chamber is made of refractory bricks, an ash pan is located under it. From above, to preserve the heat, cobblestones are laid out on a steel or cast-iron grate. Their mass is calculated from the ratio: 20–30 kg of stones are required for 1 m 3 of a steam room. This proportion is correct for continuously operating devices. If heating occurs periodically, that is, after warming up the room to the desired level, it is extinguished, then the amount must be increased by another 2 times. Sometimes, for better heat retention, cast iron ingots are added in a ratio of 20% to 80% stone.

The walls themselves, in addition to brick, can be made of ordinary or rubble stone. Sometimes granite or pebble is taken for construction. The weight of each element is from 1 to 5 kg. Don't try to build with silicon, heat will cause it to burst.

Only clay with sand can be used as a binding solution when laying the heater. Ordinary cement mortar will not withstand high temperatures and will not last even a year.

Clay is soaked in water for several days and mixed with sifted sand to the consistency of thick sour cream. It is preferable to take sand not river, but mountain. Its edges are uneven, unpolished and provide better grip.

A baked brick oven with stones weighs a lot, so you will have to make a foundation for it. For this, a pit with a depth of 70 cm is enough.

15 cm of sand and gravel fall asleep at the bottom. Then everything is poured with a layer of concrete, preferably with reinforcement. From above, the frozen foundation is covered with rolls of roofing material for waterproofing.

Let's note some points:

1. The corner of the bath where the stove is installed must be thermally insulated and reinforced. In addition to the risk of fire, it will experience a large temperature difference, which can lead to cracks in the walls.
2. The first row is laid on a ruberoid substrate without mortar, dry.
3. The remaining blocks are wetted with water during operation, each new row is laid with dressing (with an offset relative to the previous one).
4. It is necessary to ensure that the sides of the bricks facing the inside of the combustion chamber are intact, without chips or cracks. The wall here should be as smooth as possible, since any pothole provokes the destruction of the structure. At the same time, it is impossible to coat the internal surfaces with clay - after drying, it will begin to flake off and clog the chimney,
5. After completion of masonry work, the stove must be dried. To do this, either it is left for 15 days with a good flow of air, or it is heated several times in a gentle mode.

Video: masonry heater 3 × 3.5 bricks

Blueprints

metal stove

Unlike brick structures, metal units are compact and quickly warm up themselves and heat the room.

A metal stove also needs a foundation. Although its mass is much less than its stone counterpart, nevertheless, a reliable foundation must be made under it.

The starting material will be steel plate or large diameter pipes. By design, such a furnace will be similar to a stone one. The only difference is the firebox. It is customary to make it two-chamber so that afterburning of fuel can occur in the second compartment. This scheme allows you to increase productivity by 20%.

The body must be fully welded - tack welding is not suitable here.

The main disadvantage of a steel furnace can be considered an extensive hot surface that is dangerous to people. However, this is easy to fix. After installation, the body is simply lined with refractory bricks, gaps are left for convection.

Video: making a metal stove for a bath in stages

Drawings and diagrams of metal furnaces

Currently, there are many metal sauna stoves on the market, but they are all expensive. If you have good experience in metal welding, then you can make an iron stove in a bath with your own hands. In this article, we will describe in detail, attaching appropriate photos, how to do this, having our own dimensions and drawings.

Differences between metal stoves for baths and saunas

Steam rooms in the bath and sauna are significantly different from each other. The sauna is accompanied by a high temperature - over 85 ºС. Such indicators make it impossible to greatly increase the humidity as well, since skin burns are inevitable. At the same time, the broom crumbles under such conditions in just 5 minutes. Therefore, the humidity is adjusted to 5-15%. The Russian bath is characterized by a temperature in the region of 55-65 ºС, which makes it possible to raise the relative humidity to 50-60%.

To create certain conditions in the steam room, different stoves are used, and different approaches to their installation are also used. If a sauna is being equipped, then you will need to comply maximum area contact of the furnace body with air and ensure rapid circulation of air flows along the walls.

It all comes down to heating the air in the steam room as soon as possible. A small open heater, located above the firebox, is able to heat the stones up to 200-250 ºС. It allows you to get a little steam - as a rule, this is enough for a sauna, because you need to achieve only 15% humidity.

In the Russian bath, a different microclimate is created - low temperatures are reached, and a lot of steam is produced. At the same time, it should consist of very small droplets heated to 130-150 ºС - such steam is called “dry”. Such a microclimate gives the body lightness and strength. "Dry" steam can only be obtained by heating stones to values ​​​​of more than 500 ºС. To achieve such indicators, the stones are placed in a furnace, that is, in a closed heater.

Do-it-yourself stoves for a Russian bath

The most important thing when making do-it-yourself metal sauna stoves according to the drawings is to take into account that it is impossible to maintain the desired temperature within 60-65 ºС with heated metal walls (read: “Drawings of a metal sauna stove - we build a stove with our own hands”). You will definitely have to reheat, which is accompanied by the emission of strong IR waves, in which it is quite difficult to be near the stove.

There are two ways to solve this problem:

• Make a furnace lining. The process consists in lining the firebox from the inside with refractory bricks. It is enough to lay on the edge, while the thickness of the lining will be 6 cm, although narrow fireclay, 3 cm thick, is also found. Be that as it may, the heating of the steel walls is insignificant, the heater warms up most of all. Therefore, you should immediately design the furnace so that it is of increased size, because most of its volume is allocated to the lining. The disadvantage of this method is that hot smoke is produced as a result, which reduces fire safety. It is best to cool it by installing a tank or heater on a pipe. A little more difficult is to install a heating shield, passing through which the smoke cools down to 80-120 ºС.
• Install brick screen around the iron stove for the bath. It is assembled from ceramic bricks, while windows are left in the wall for mounting doors, which will allow in the future to control the level of air heating. It can be concluded that this option is the best due to the possibility of temperature control, however, it is less practical, since the back wall overheats very much, so it is necessary to include heat-resistant steel in the design. In this case, it turns out that for a longer service life of an iron sauna stove, you need to choose a rather thick metal. As practice shows, it is better to install it in the upper and lower parts of the firebox.

Separately, it is worth mentioning the seams. A home-made iron stove in the bath quite often begins to burn out precisely from low-quality seams. In production conditions, this problem is solved using a bent structure. On top of the oven, they try to minimize the number of seams.

When making a metal stove for a bath with your own hands, it will be practically impossible for you to bend 6-10 mm steel, therefore, as a rule, it remains to make extremely high-quality seams.

What is the size of the stove and where is it better to put it?

The required volume of stones is determined by the size of the steam room and the quality of the insulation. The value, as a rule, varies from 20 to 40 kg per 1 cubic meter of the room. Naturally, the more of them, the easier it is to generate the required amount of steam.

Due to the fact that different stones differ in density, with the same mass they will occupy a different volume. It was determined that for a steam room with a volume of 12-14 m 3, it will be necessary to install a heater 30×40×30 cm. These dimensions can be slightly adjusted in different situations.

When making a metal sauna stove with your own hands, you will need to choose the individual volume of the heater, based on the size of the stove. In order to avoid mistakes, it is better to build on the finished drawings. When using the experimental approach, it should be taken into account that the volume of the furnace should exceed that of the heater by approximately 30-50%.

Before you build a stove in a bath, you should calculate the best location of the heater in the firebox. From practice, it became clear that it is best to place it on top, near the back wall, where the temperature is highest.

It is worth remembering that the heater will need to be serviced, and it should be equipped so that water can be supplied there. The hatch is best positioned so that it is possible to easily reach the farthest edge with your hand, and so that water can be supplied without the possibility of getting burned.

As a rule, tubes are added to the heater, divorced inside the container, which would reach all the stones. From the water supply side, the tube is equipped with a funnel. After diluting the pipes, they are lined with stones. After water is supplied through the pipes, it hits the stones in the heater and turns into steam.

Drawings of homemade steel sauna stoves

Consider the version of the furnace, which will be relevant for a steam room with a volume of 2 × 3 × 2.3 m. Steel sheets 3 mm thick are used for its construction.

To start the combustion process, the design provides for an additional air duct, which originates from the street. To prevent the steel from bending during heating, stiffening ribs in the form of corners are attached to the sides at the top of the firebox.

Consider another scheme by which you can make metal bath stoves with your own hands. These are models with air intake from the top of the firebox. They are also called furnaces with afterburning gases. On the back wall, a steel platinum is welded to it. Air enters the furnace from under the grate, and is supplied through the air ducts going into the gap between this plate and the rear wall of the furnace.

Such an interesting design copes with two tasks at the same time: it cools the back wall, preventing it from burning out, and it also supplies air already warmed up to the upper part, where very hot gases are concentrated in the form of smoke. 80% of their volume are combustible.

After mixing with air, they ignite, which leads to an increase in the temperature in the furnace and heating of the stones to higher rates. If at the same time dry firewood is used as fuel, then they will be required much less. Many long-burning furnaces have been built on this principle of operation, but for sauna stoves it has only recently come into use. There is also a similar model without afterburning. Having studied her drawing, you can better understand the proportions and placement of different elements.

This design involves the construction of a furnace with a volume of 30% more than the heater. The ratio can be considered acceptable. The chimney is located offset back, which sometimes causes difficulties in installing it - the ceiling beam may interfere with it. In this case, it may be necessary to bend the chimney, which is not welcome.

In addition, before you make a stove for a bath, you should decide whether you need a steam tank for heating water. Some adjust the humidity level by opening and closing the tank lid. Other experts say that heavy steam is produced in this way, so they advise installing a tank in the washing room, and heating the water is done by means of a heat exchanger built into the furnace, connected by pipes to the tank.

Now consider the diagram metal furnace with water tank. The design is considered quite well-designed. Thanks to the spark arrester, the smoke travels a slightly longer distance, thereby warming up the walls of the firebox better. Instead of a tank, of course, you can lay stones.

It is worth considering the option of installing a tank at the back of the furnace. The chimney is shifted back, passing through the tank. Because of high altitude the tank will have effective heat dissipation, therefore, the chimney will not overheat when leaving it.

The heater has a design that assumes its small size, which is quite enough for small steam rooms. It has a lid, but due to the location, it can be difficult to close it after water has been supplied. But this design is easier to maintain.

Making a sauna stove

The main task of the furnaces is to bring the temperature to the desired indicators as quickly as possible and keep it at that level. To speed up this process, fans are used, which, blowing the walls, accelerate the heating.

For these purposes, the casing-convector is also intended. The gap between it and the furnace wall should be 1.5-2 cm. Through the gap, air is sucked in, which warms up during movement, while the walls cool down.

To make the stove in the bath with your own hands as high quality and practical as possible, its body is made of thick metal, and the casing is made of thin, because it is not subject to overheating.

When placing the heater above the firebox, ventilation holes can be made in the casing. In this case, the proportion of air rising along the walls will be directed to the heater, blowing over the stones and increasing their temperature. This ventilated heater is great for saunas.

Schemes and drawings of furnaces

Sauna stoves have a slightly simplified design. The dimensions of the metal stove for the bath, and the firebox itself, should be sufficient for laying large logs. On top of the firebox, the sides of the heater are welded, the volume of which, as a rule, is from 20 to 25 liters. The ratio in size can be different, there are no specific rules for this.

To make a metal stove for a bath as correct as possible, you should not install a tank for heating water. Otherwise, you will not be able to control the level of humidity in the sauna, which in extreme temperatures can lead to burns.

There is another option - to install a heater inside the firebox. A lid can be provided, while such an oven can have two modes of operation: with an open lid - so that the steaming process is dry, and with a closed lid - to generate a larger volume of steam.

How to make a sauna stove: do-it-yourself metal sauna stove, metal stove, drawings, how to make iron, how to build, dimensions of iron sauna stoves, photos and videos

How to make a sauna stove: do-it-yourself metal sauna stove, metal stove, drawings, how to make iron, how to build, dimensions of iron sauna stoves, photos and videos

Metal sauna stove: manufacturing instructions

To date, there are many designs of metal stoves: wood, electric and gas. Wood-burning appliances require a lot of fuel, careful maintenance, but they give a "live" fire. Electrical devices are housings equipped with heating elements and heat insulators. Gas ovens are the most modern and reliable, they have thermostats for power control and protective devices that are triggered when the gas is attenuated.

Advantages and disadvantages of metal stoves for a bath

Metal stoves for baths have significant advantages over other heating structures:

• The small dimensions and mobility of the metal stove make it indispensable for small baths.

The disadvantages of metal furnaces are:

1. Rapid cooling associated with the oven's inability to retain heat. Continuous fuel combustion is required.

Material for a metal furnace in a bath

For the manufacture of the stove, metal with a thickness of more than 5 mm is used, with a smaller value, the device will not last more than 5-7 years. Reputable stove manufacturers offer products in 10mm steel for fireboxes and slightly thinner for water tanks and stone bins.

The design of the stove-heater made of metal for a bath

A metal sauna stove consists of three main parts, such as a fuel combustion chamber, a stone hopper, and a water heating tank.

• The combustion chamber. Here is the process of burning firewood. To control it, the doors of the firebox and blower are used. The latter serves to supply air to the furnace. Removal of combustion products from the furnace is carried out through an ash pan - a metal grate. From the firebox, the heat from burning firewood rises to the bunker with stones.

If the design of a metal stove for a bath is clear to you, we proceed to the process of its manufacture.

Making a stove-heater for a bath from a metal pipe

We will make the stove from a pipe with a diameter of 700 mm, its height will be 1600 mm. For work, we need: a steel sheet with dimensions of 2200x1000 mm and a thickness of 10 mm, a metal pipe 1600 mm long with a wall thickness of 7-10 mm, a chimney pipe with a diameter of 100 mm with a wall thickness of 5 mm, a metal rod t. 10 mm, a cast-iron grate (from the store), door hinges - 8 pcs, hecks - 3 pcs, a drain valve for the tank, a tape measure, a building level, a grinder, metal scissors, a welding machine.

1. We cut the pipe into two parts: one of them is 0.9 m long, the other is 0.7 m.

The procedure for installing a metal stove in a bath

Measures for the installation of a bath stove begin at the stage of erection of the entire building - a foundation is laid for installing the device with a slight deepening. It is laid with two rows of bricks, and a stove is placed on it.

• The minimum distance between the wall and the oven is assumed to be at least 1 m. In addition, an additional protection device is recommended in the form of thermal insulation of the wall with foil with a layer of insulation. This will prevent overheating of the wooden wall and its ignition.

After the installation of the furnace is completed, it can be lined with bricks on clay mortar. It will improve appearance device and save people from the possibility of burns. The stove with lining can be placed closer to the wall.

We hope that the above will convince you that making a metal stove for a bath is not so difficult. If you have the skills of metal cutting and welding, you can make a home-made furnace using a simple drawing, which will be no worse than a purchased one.

Do-it-yourself metal sauna stove

Homemade metal stoves for baths have always competed with their brick counterparts. This is due to the rapid heating and simple installation of such units. With instructions for making

We assemble a do-it-yourself metal sauna stove

A lot of do-it-yourself metal sauna stove designs have already been made and invented, but the topic has not been fully disclosed and is still relevant. With your own hands, metal bath stoves can be made from improvised metal materials All you need is desire and a little time.

Do-it-yourself metal stoves for a bath

After reviewing this article and observing the technology, as well as adding imagination, you can come up with something yourself. As a result, you will not only have a great steam bath, but also surprise your neighbors and friends with unique solutions. Let's talk about some in more detail. We will figure out how a metal furnace can be made, what its dimensions and device should be, and we will also tell you how to prepare the base (foundation) in order to install the assembled structure.

Stove with stone grate and hot water

What do you need to work?

If a metal stove for a bath is being built with your own hands, then you first need to draw up a project, determining the dimensions of the unit, and also prepare everything you need.

Tool

• Welding machine.
• Electrodes with a diameter of 3-4.
• Bulgarian.

Material metal

If a homemade stove for a bath is made from a pipe, you will need:

• Wheel disks - 4 pcs.
• Pipe with a diameter of 100-150 mm.
• Sheet iron 2-3 mm thick.
• Armature iron with a diameter of 8-10 mm or a rod.

Building material

• Brick - 300-350 pcs.
• Cement - 2-3 bags of 50 kg.
• Crushed stone, sand - 0.1 cu.

Please note: thrust is created by rarefaction, i.e. rarefied cold air draws warm air. Warm air, in turn, tends to rise under the action of the Archimedean force. The draft depends on the weather: in summer the air is warm and humid - naturally, the draft is less, in winter it is the other way around. The thrust also depends on the diameter of the pipe.

Drawing of the heater stove

If the pipe is thin, then gases and warm air will be slowed down by friction against the walls of the pipe and will not have time to leave the chimney. As a result, it creates smoke plug and the smoke follows the path of least resistance, i.e. into the room.

Therefore, when making a metal bath stove with your own hands, always follow the principles of pressure, draft, correctly choosing the dimensions of the chimney and firebox. If the pipe is wide- smoke and gases will slowly rise up, the draft will be poor and the pipe will be very clogged, it will have to be cleaned very often. Since everything will settle on the walls of the pipe, the normal speed when exiting the pipe is 5-8 m/s.

For the first time, the Romans began to use chimneys (3-8 centuries BC) - famous Roman baths.

Works on the construction of the furnace

So, let's start building a metal bath stove with our own hands. First of all, you need to prepare the foundation, that is, the foundation on which it is planned to install the structure. Despite the fact that the iron stove for a bath from a pipe weighs a little, it is necessary to prepare the foundation for it. It is very important that the iron stove is installed on a level foundation.

We build the foundation

• For the foundation for the furnace, we knock down the formwork, its dimensions are 1x1 m, height 20 cm.
• We reinforce the future foundation in one layer, laying reinforcement along and across squares 20x20 cm. We connect the fittings at the junctions with each other with a knitting wire. It should not lie on the ground, for this we drive it into the ground along the edges of the lattice 4 pieces of rebar and tie a grate to them on weight. Before you start pouring the foundation, make sure that the grate is in the middle.
• After pouring, we maintain the foundation about 2 weeks, we open all the doors and windows in the bath for better ventilation and lay wet rags on the flooded foundation. This is done so that cracks do not form during drying. We wet the rags for 2 weeks.

Preparing and assembling the oven

An iron furnace is assembled like this:

• Take the back rim from the wheel, we weld all the holes, except for the one in the middle.
• We take the next rim, cut off the convex top, insert the first rim into the second and weld. There should be no holes and cracks, the device must be airtight, after welding we beat off the slag and check the weld, if we haven’t welded it somewhere, we weld it, check it again, having beaten off the slag.

Moments of assembling a stove for a bath

Assembly of parts of the 2nd stage of the furnace

Let's make a small digression here. If you already have a dressing room, then before installing a new stove, you will have to cut a square hole in the wall, because the stove will start from there - these are the doors of the blower and firebox, everything else is in the bath.

Drawing of the inside of the furnace

If you did not have a dressing room, then we will build it together with a sauna stove. The corner where the iron stove stands should be lined with a brick wall, this is done in order to fire safety, because inside the bath is always trimmed with wood.

So, we begin to make an oven, if there is no experience in oven matters or you have never laid a brick, then it is better to call a master who will lay down the oven for you according to all the rules. But if you want to try it yourself, which is not bad, then it's time to try it, and I'll tell you how to do it.

• We lay out the base completely of brick, the second row we begin to lay out the ash pan (blower).

Ash pan, blower

After laying the oven should dry for at least 2 weeks, if it is flooded immediately, then microcracks will appear, which will violate the integrity of the furnace. We open all the blowers and entrances and exits so that the stove dries out. It is allowed to heat with small chips for a couple of hours. The stove is considered dry if the firebox door no moisture and the walls are dry. You can drive the oven to the full for maintenance, and the oven is ready for use.

• Now let's look at the pipe, the figure shows the finished view of the pipe, which is placed on the furnace we have folded.
• At the iron stove, the heater is located right on the body itself, in our case it is on the pipe, and there is also a hot water tank.

The complete oven

Note that the design itself will heavy enough, so it can be divided into parts and assembled indoors. A do-it-yourself metal bath stove of an original design is ready. If there is already a finish inside - cover from welding even with roofing material, even with sheets of iron.

Attention. Do not forget, when welding indoors, for fire safety purposes, you need to have a bucket of water and a sprinkler. A spray bottle can be made from an ordinary one and a half liter plastic bottle by punching a hole in the lid. After welding, spray the seam and scale.

• Top of the chimney (see Metal chimneys) we strengthen with two reinforcement for rigidity, welded to the pipe and fastened to one wall and to the other. For fastening to the wall, we use a corner or a plate welded to the reinforcement and drilled from both sides.
• We drill a brick with a perforator with a drill with a diameter of 6 mm, 5-6 cm deep and fasten it to the anchor, so we got stiffness angle and stable construction.

View in full: do-it-yourself metal stove for a bath

Do-it-yourself metal sauna stove with a grate for stones

Options for assembling a furnace of a different design

Do-it-yourself metal stoves for a bath are different forms. Consider an oven made from pipe, its components and assembly scheme. At first glance, a pipe sauna stove has the simplest possible device, but it has its own tricks and design technology. At the beginning of the article, I indicated the principle of operation of the furnace, draft and chimney. In all cases, these principles must be used, otherwise the oven will not work.

Do-it-yourself metal sauna stove with built-in heater

With the independent implementation of the design and some original solutions, so that you get a metal stove for a bath with your own hands, be guided by them, and you will succeed. Do not forget that nothing is impossible for us, so we will dare, strive and surprise others, improving our skills. Then a do-it-yourself metal sauna stove built or just a stove will not be an unread book for you. The stove in the photo above is an easy option as the base is almost done - a piece of pipe with a diameter of 525 mm, a length of 650 mm.

From below we cut a hole 335 mm in length, 180 mm wide, this will be our grate, we weld rods or an iron strip, about 1 cm apart. Separately, we make a box of sheet iron 2-3 mm, in size:

We weld the box, clean the slag.

We weld the door to it and set aside the part for now. Let's deal with the 525 pipe, we need to cut out the plugs, sidewalls on both sides.

• We have a pipe diameter of 525, divide by 2, we get 262.5 mm.
• With the help of a compass, having measured 262.5, we draw 2 circles, although it can be easier. Attach our blank (pipe 525) to the sheet and simply circle it.

If you need to copy several parts, then you should always copy from the original, and not from their finished copies, since dimensional accuracy is lost. If you marked out a part and cut it out, then it is better to measure again and make another one than to copy from the finished one.

Do-it-yourself metal stove for a bath with a large heater

For now, we will make the parts, but we will carry out the assembly in order. First, we will make the insides of the oven and assemble them inside the oven itself, we will alternately apply and boil all other parts in turn.

Cut two holes at the top. One - for the chimney, round, with a diameter of 110 mm, stepping back from the edge of the 525 pipe to the middle (chimney 110 pipe) 100 mm. The other is square, for the heater, stepping back from the edge of the 525 pipe 215 mm, cut off the size along the 525 pipe 300 mm, across 250 mm. To keep the structure symmetrical, use the level(vertical, horizontal) or plumb line(vertical). For the cut hole, we prepare a niche for stones, cut out the details from a 5 mm iron sheet.

We weld all the details, make a square box, as shown, clean it from slag, coat the seams with plenty of kerosene and see if there are any smudges. We set aside the finished part of the furnace to the side.

A plumb line can be made from any heavy load (bolt, nut, stone, nail) and any rope, fishing line, thread. But the weight of the load must keep the ropes, fishing lines, threads taut. Gravity will do the rest, a thread with a load hanging on it always shows the vertical in an ideal way, just like water shows the horizontal line.

Do-it-yourself metal stove for a bath: drawings

Next step: we cut out a 4-5 mm partition for the furnace shaft from a sheet of iron (it separates the firebox from the chimney, thereby preventing rapid heat leakage into the chimney).

Partition for furnace shaft

As shown in the figure, we measure 180 mm from above and in fact, that is, what the size will be, we will find out only in the course of work. Measurement can be made using a tape measure and a level. We set the level, mark from the top 180 mm to the top of the level. For a note, I’ll tell you how to get by with improvised means, if there is no level and mark the horizontal line. We take a transparent glass vessel, it can be a glass, plastic bottle or any transparent, but solid enough object that has a base.

We mark the same distance from the bottom on the sides and put marks with a marker. Pour water according to the marks - and here level ready. We put it on the surface we need: the water should be at the level with the marks, then we will have a horizon level.

• Set the level, not forgetting about the size of 180 mm, it must be observed, we press the level to the pipe so that it does not walk with you, and we put marks inside the edges, with a marker or chalk. We perform the same procedure on the other side.
• We make a measurement label to label.
• We draw a partition on a piece of metal and cut out.
• We take a niche for stones, insert it into the prepared hole, make a couple of tacks on the side and turn the pipe over (the niche for stones should be at the bottom).
• We insert the partition according to the marks made, if everything converges, then we begin to scald the partition, if not, we make notes where exactly it does not converge or interferes, pull out the partition, trim it with a grinder. If there are gaps - it's okay, it is brewed by electric welding.
• We also scald a niche for stones.

So, do-it-yourself bath metal stove is the next stage of assembly. We have plugs or sidewalls. On one we make markings for the firebox door, retreating from the bottom of 50 mm, and cut it to the size of the door, which we have prepared in advance with one clarification: we make a hole along all edges less than 1 cm. If we have a door size of 220x320 mm, then we cut out a hole of 210x310 mm. And we cut out another hole for cleaning the chimney 70x130 mm.

Do-it-yourself metal bath stoves with a tank for heating water

If the made metal stove in the bath with your own hands does not have a direct exit from the furnace to the chimney, but with shafts, then you should always make holes for cleaning the chimneys if you cannot get there. If this is not done, then ash deposits and small particles of ash and soot will soon reduce access to the chimney and the stove will begin to smoke. You will either have to cut through the window, or cut and weld the pipe constantly.

• First we put the sidewall with the future door, scald outside. Through the window for the firebox we weld the partition with the sidewall. We will install the firebox door at the last moment. Now we weld the other sidewall, which we have without holes, we clean everything with a grinder.
• We put the chimney in the cut hole, grab, take the level and measure the vertical from both sides not in parallel, but at an angle. To keep the chimney from being blocked. We scald everything, put an effort for the chimney below.
• Next stage: put the ash pan- blew from below, closing the grate, and scald it.
• And assembly completion- we weld the doors to the firebox and to the hole for cleaning the chimney, the ash pan has a door. And weld the legs.

It remains to install the oven in its intended place. At the same time, the installation is carried out so that the heater is not located in the furnace, but outside, which makes it difficult to heat the stones. The stones will heat up much longer than usual, but the effect will still be. Stones for the stove are better to use maritime, they heat up faster, keep heat longer, and if they contain salt and iodine, they have a beneficial effect on the body. A very important detail. If you have made an iron stove for a bath with your own hands, then you need to install it so that the floor under the blower is tin or tiles, generally made of non-combustible material.

• Do-it-yourself metal sauna stove: assembly

  
  Step-by-step guide to assembling a stove for a bath with your own hands. Necessary materials and tools for the work. A detailed step-by-step description of the actions for

Do-it-yourself metal sauna stove

There are plenty of types of stove equipment: someone prefers a brick heater built by a professional craftsman, and someone likes a metal stove designed by their own hands.

The latter option is economical, as it can be made from improvised materials with your own hands.

Unit advantages

The following main positive points with which the metal stove for the bath is endowed:

• compactness, small parameters make it possible to install such a design even in a small room.
• No need to build a special massive foundation. For such a stove, a lightweight type of base is also suitable. And this greatly simplifies the process of installing furnace equipment.
• In a metal sauna stove, you can maintain a constant combustion process, which allows you to keep the temperature at a given value throughout the entire sauna procedure.
• An economical version of furnace equipment, the possibility of building a structure from existing materials.

Disadvantages of a metal sauna stove

Despite the presence of positive aspects, a metal stove for a bath has its own minuses :

1. cools down very quickly, as there is no property of accumulation of thermal energy. In order to maintain a high temperature in the bath, it is necessary to maintain a constant combustion process.
2. low heating capacity of a large room;
3. the need to provide special protection against a fire situation, since the fire safety of a metal structure is low. It is recommended to install additional hull skin.

Choosing a shape for a metal sauna stove

For many, such a parameter as the shape of the structure will seem insignificant. In fact, the configuration affects the performance of the equipment, the convenience of using it during operation. The furnace unit happens:

The last type is the most common and easy to use. With this configuration, the furnace has corner zones that are subject to minimal heat. That is why many people think that rectangular design the shape, the frame of the furnace is best preserved.

The shape of the furnace also affects the uniformity of heating of both the structure itself and the heated room. With the maximum heating of one element of the equipment, the heating of the other decreases. This, in turn, ensures uniform heating of the room, a stable balance of heat flows.

Proper heating of the structure affects its mechanical stability. So, a round or cylindrical furnace is characterized by a low degree of resistance to heat, therefore, denser walls are made for it. A rectangular oven is considered to be resistant to heat, as it has cold corners.

Do-it-yourself oven construction options

It can be said that metal bath stoves already have a long history, therefore, for such a long period, craftsmen have developed and offered various types of performance.

The simplest option is a metal stove made of an iron barrel. To do this, the bottom and lid of the barrel are cut off, resulting in a cylinder. This cylinder, up to half, is loaded with bricks placed on edge. A grate is laid on top of them. The remaining half of the barrel is 2/3 filled with stones. After that, the chimney is removed and the lid is installed on the furnace. This method of making a furnace, although simple, is inconvenient to use.

For a small bath area, you can build a compact-sized stove using sheet steel. The inner surface of this design is laid out with bricks. The firebox, its walls are laid out in half a brick, the chimney - in one quarter. This type of oven is easy to manufacture and use. To warm up the room, you will need some fuel raw materials. Comfortable room temperature will be achieved after a short period of time.

Manufacturing process

Whichever option is chosen, you will need to prepare the following material:

• sheet steel, the thickness of which is not less than 8 mm;
• a metal pipe with a wall thickness of 10 mm, a diameter of 50-60 cm;
• rod 10 mm thick;
• grate;
• hecks and doors for the combustion chamber, heater and blower;
• water tap;
• two meters of pipe. Of these, 90 cm will go to the firebox, 60 cm to the tank, and 50 cm to the manufacture of secondary parts.

By the way, doors for structural elements can be made independently.

Concerning tools, then in the work we will use a grinder and a welding machine.

Option 1: stove design with a closed type of heater

In this type of structure, it is assumed closed view of the stove, therefore, in order to splash water to supply steam, you will need to open the door.

A design such as a metal stove for a do-it-yourself bath has the following steps:

• we take a large piece of pipe, the diameter of which is at least 50 cm, and cut an opening in it for the blower. The size of the latter is 5x20 cm.
• Inside the pipe, from the side of the opening, we weld fasteners for the grate, using any metal plate with lugs for this.
• We turn to the arrangement of the firebox: we cut an opening of 25x20 cm, weld the fasteners for the heater rods. We will use rods, 1 cm in diameter, or specially sold grates for a round furnace.
• On the opposite wall of the heater, we cut a hole through which steam is supplied.
• We fill the heater with stones suitable for this type of construction. good properties, combined with a metal surface, has soapstone, diabase, it is necessary to exclude flint, granite, mica-containing stones.
• In the lid for the furnace, we cut a hole for the chimney pipe and install it.

This completes the manufacturing process of the furnace structure. But still, the masters offer to improve the design by adding hot water tank .

To do this, we take a piece of pipe, of large diameter, and weld in a water tap. We prepare the lid for the water tank: we take the lid of the desired size and cut it into 2 equal parts. In one part, we cut an opening for the chimney, and then weld it onto the tank. We will provide for the second part to be removable, so we weld hinges and a handle to it.

Option 2: stove with an open type of heater, constant heating

Having a metal sheet is easy and simple to build such an assembly. His the design is a pipe divided into two compartments using a grate. The upper compartment is a firebox, while the lower one acts as an ashpit-blower. Each compartment is equipped with a door through which fuel can be placed, air supplied, and combustion products removed.

In the far, muffled end of the pipe, we weld the chimney pipe, its diameter is 100 mm.

We weld a metal box on top of the cylindrical body, which is filled with stones. The curved elbow of the chimney allows for maximum heating of the stones, as this increases the contact surface of the hot pipe with the heater.

The described version of the furnace structure is also easy to perform in the form of a parallelepiped. In this case, sheets of metal, and not a pipe, will be needed for blanks.

As a rule, for such a stove, the presence of a hot water tank is assumed. In a rectangular oven ways to place the tank many, here are just a few:

• can be done on either side;
• attach on top;
• perform a water jacket on several sides;
• embed pipes for cold and hot water supply.

A convenient way to get hot water is to install a special heat exchange tank on the chimney pipe. You can make such a water heater yourself or buy a ready-made factory one, which has a pipe of a standard size and diameter. In the latter case, the tank cuts into the chimney, its vertical part above the furnace body, and pipes are connected to the supply and intake of water. Such a tank, with sufficient volume, can serve as a water reservoir or simply be a heat exchanger connected to the main water tank.

Option 3: open type metal oven with additional brick walls

This type of furnace equipment is complex in execution, but this is justified by the acquisition of the ability to accumulate heat.

Such a design is metal body with internal brickwork. At the same time, the requirements for the thickness of steel are reduced: you can take a sheet with a thickness of 2 mm. For brickwork, you will need fireclay refractory bricks, mortar. As a solution, a special ready-made dry mix for furnace work is suitable. It is mixed according to the requirements of the instructions for use.

A do-it-yourself metal stove for a bath has the following manufacturing technology:

1. Preparing the base: We weld legs and heel pads to it. This will make the furnace structure stable.

Scheme of a metal sauna stove with an additional brick wall

• We lay out the first solid brick row on this base. For the rest of the rows, we adhere to the following parameters: near the firebox we put it in half a brick, in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe chimney channels - a quarter.
• When the blower chamber is ready, install cast iron grate , placing it between the firebox and the ash pan. To design openings for the loading window and blower, you can use metal corners, 20 x 20 in size. It is important to monitor the evenness between ordinary seams.
• Above the combustion chamber we lay wire mesh metal grill , whose diameter is 12 mm. We will then put stones on this grate.
• When the masonry reaches the level of the heater, you need to leave it on the right or left opening We will load stones into it, take them out for cleaning, and also splash water into this window during the bathing procedure for vaporization.
• flue channel it is desirable to make tortuous. This will ensure maximum heating of the entire furnace body and complete combustion of fuel resources. In the place where the pipe turns up, from the back, we create an inspection window. We mount a valve in it, which allows you to keep warm for a long time after the end of the furnace process.
• The top two rows of bricks are laid solid, leaving opening for chimney pipe through which combustion products will be removed.
• After we have finished the brickwork, we give the mortar time to set and dry. After that, we proceed to welding the walls of the metal case. In our situation, this body resembles a kind of case. Corner, 20 x 20, launched at the joints, makes it possible to facilitate welding work, to make the seams airtight.
• Making a workpiece front wall , do not forget to cut openings for the ash pan and the furnace loading chamber. We install the front wall in place, weld the hinges for the doors. We make the door leafs wider by 10 mm on each side than the prepared openings - this will ensure tightness when closing. You can lay an asbestos seal around the perimeter of the door or along its entire inner surface.
• In the side wall blank, we also provide an opening for prepared in brickwork steam generation windows . For this, we install a metal door with sealing material. It is desirable to make it open down, put a cold handle for opening during the bath procedure, when there is a need for steam.
• On the lid for the oven cut out flue pipe hole , the field of which we weld the cover into place. Next, install chimney channel and boil it.
• We install a metal stove for a bath with our own hands at the chosen place and load it with stones.

Rules for installing a bath metal furnace

• install a metal sauna stove with your own hands at a distance of at least 1 meter from the walls of the bath;
• the structure must be located in close proximity to the chimney;
• execution of a special foundation, a base made of refractory materials for placing the furnace;
• the wall of the room, near which there is a metal stove for a bath, should be finished with sheet refractory material.

Do-it-yourself metal stove for a bath: photo drawings

Bath stove made of metal: advantages and disadvantages, drawings, photos, 3 options for making a metal unit with your own hands. Video instruction.

Heating stoves for baths made of metal have long been widely used due to their special qualities.

Such devices are practically in no way inferior to traditional brick devices, even have higher efficiency and heating rate.

Their compactness, ease of operation, low cost are indisputable advantages for owners of suburban areas.

Many locksmith workshops offer services for the manufacture of metal furnaces according to an individual customer project. This makes it possible to obtain a device designed to work taking into account specific factors and having a set of required functions.

Making a wood-burning metal stove with your own hands is easy especially if you have experience with welding.

Design features, drawings

There are various types of heating devices of this kind, they are united by common design elements:

• Frame- it is most often made of sheet steel, in which it is convenient to cut holes for the chimney and the doors of the furnace, ash pan.

Photo 1. Drawing of a metal stove for a bath (front view, side view) and an image of the device in finished form.

• combustion chamber- usually a separate box is made of steel of sufficient thickness ( not less than 5 mm), consisting of the combustion chamber itself and the structure of a retractable ash pan welded on from below. It is separated from the firebox by a steel grate with large cells. In addition to collecting soot, the ash pan performs the function of supplying air to the combustion chamber, that is, it creates traction.
• Kamenka- a metal basket for stones, most often located directly above the firebox for better heating. The heater is of two types: open, providing convenient steam generation, or closed, located inside the stove body.
• Tank for water- can be located both next to the heater and above it. Typically, a water tank is equipped with a special tap that supplies water to hot stones, this ensures the formation of steam.
• Chimney- removes combustion products, smoke and hot air to the street, also creates traction.

Photo 2. Drawing of a metal sauna stove: every detail of the device has been worked out, the dimensions are indicated.

Metal stoves tend to get very hot during operation, intense heat can bring discomfort to those in the steam room, and a hot surface can cause burns. Therefore, this type of device is usually veneer with stone or brick- in addition to protecting against heat, the screen, along with the heater, acts as a heat accumulator. After the stove goes out, the brick screen will heat the air for a long time, drying the steam room after its use.

There is another common way to reduce too much heat from the stove: the combustion chamber is laid out from the inside fireclay (fire-resistant) bricks. This method is called lining and has its drawbacks. Superheated air entering the chimney may cause a fire. Therefore, if the lining of the combustion chamber is being carried out, it is recommended to install a heater above it to absorb part of the heat.

Scheme and dimensions of a simple metal stove for a bath

The most common compact furnace has a rudimentary design and is quickly welded from sheet steel. Rectangular housing, dimensions 55 cm x 30 cm, height about a metre. Inside the body there is an ash pan with a height 15 cm, combustion chamber height 30 cm. An open grid for stones is installed above the firebox. The chimney pipe rises directly from the firebox to the roof, passes through the heater, giving it a significant part of the heat.

Reference. To make an even simpler model, you need old propane tank which is used as the furnace body. At the end, holes are cut for the doors of the furnace, ash pan. A round opening is made in the side wall for connecting the chimney. The balloon itself is horizontally mounted on legs.

Vertical iron stove

The most compact version is a tall vertical case in which all the parts are located one above the other.

The dimensions of such a device may vary according to the area of ​​​​the steam room. On average, for a small room, the dimensions will be optimal 0.5m x 0.5m x 1.3m.

The vertical boiler may contain two or three compartments. It depends on whether a water tank will be installed. In the lower chamber there is a firebox and an ash pan (the power of the furnace and the burn-out period of one firewood bookmark depend on the size of the firebox).

An internal heater is installed above the firebox, height about 45 cm, a door for laying stones is cut in the case.

Immediately above the heater, a water tank is placed, the size of which depends on the needs of users (the height of the entire stove is selected accordingly).

A chimney is installed above the tank, which is connected directly to the outlet from the combustion chamber. An air gap is left between the walls of the case and the internal chambers at least 3-5 cm to protect external walls from overheating.

You will also be interested in:

Horizontal sauna stove with remote firebox

Such a device takes up more space, but provides the opportunity to position the main part of the furnace in the next room or on the street. This option allows you to carry out operations for laying firewood, cleaning the stove with great convenience. If the stove is brought into the dressing room, it also heats the second room, which is an additional plus. In the steam room itself there is only a furnace chamber, a heater located above it.

When installing such a device Special attention needs to be given fire safety. The partition through which the firebox will pass is carefully insulated.

The best thing cover the firebox with bricks, this will eliminate the loss of heat from the steam room. In the dressing room, the walls and floor at the location of the stove are covered with fire-resistant material.

The average size of such an oven 0.5m wide,1m long, the height depends on the size of the heater located above the firebox.

Making a metal furnace with your own hands

When choosing a drawing for making a do-it-yourself furnace a number of factors are taken into account:

• room area- the dimensions of the device depend on it;
• availability of desired features— heating of air, water;
• the presence of a heater open or closed type;
• heat capacity b - protective shielding.

The location of the device in the room also plays a significant role. If you need a compact stove for a small steam room, fit corner location. In this case, it is better to choose a model with a remote firebox or a vertical one. When located in the center of the steam room a large oven can be horizontal and massive for high-quality heating of the room.

materials

In the manufacture of the oven, preference is given to sheet steel. It is convenient to cut, bend, the material itself is resistant to burning.

For the durability of a homemade furnace, a rather thick layer of steel is required, but the layer width is too large ( e.g. 1 cm) can lead to prolonged heating of the device, reducing its efficiency.

Therefore, the best choice would be steel with a thickness 5-7 mm for firebox and 3-4 mm for the body.

Other details- doors, hinges to them, latches, a tap for a water tank, grates for an ash pan and a stove recommended to buy in specialized building stores. The chimney is made from pieces of pipe of suitable diameter ( at least 10 cm), legs - from metal scraps of sufficient thickness to support the weight of the stove, as well as nets with stones. To fill the stove river boulders of a rounded shape and a suitable size are suitable.

Instruments

To complete all stages of work, you will need the following tools:

• welding machine;
• grinder with a cutting disc for iron;
• container for mixing the solution;
• furnace hammer-pick;
• Master OK;
• rule.

To work safely need to purchase protective equipment: a special mask and gloves. Various measuring instruments: roulette, building level.

Stages of construction. How to weld the structure correctly?

First of all, a place is being prepared for the oven, the foundation is being laid. Most metal devices are compact, so they do not require concrete pouring; it is enough to lay out a base of two rows of bricks. If it is decided to lay out a heavy brick screen, it is more expedient to take care of a full-fledged foundation:

1. The floor is disassembled at the installation site of the furnace, a pit is pulled out half a meter deep.
2. Pours on the bottom drainage cushion: a layer of wet sand, a second layer of crushed stone or special granulated expanded clay.
3. Placed on the drain timber formwork filled with concrete mixture.
4. After drying the foundation, it is placed on it two-layer waterproofing(roofing material).

After preparing the foundation, thermal insulation of the future place for the device is provided. The walls and ceiling are sewn up with fire-resistant material, the device itself is installed so that there is a gap to the walls at least 30 cm.

Then proceed to welding the structural parts:

1. According to the drawing, with the help of a grinder, pieces of sheet steel are cut for the body, internal chambers.
2. Welded side walls, bottom of the case. Holes for the combustion chamber and ash pan are cut in the front part. Inside, to the walls of the case are welded metal corners for attaching compartments.
3. Welded and installed combustion chamber and ash pan with a grid separating them.
4. Welding is carried out and the subsequent placement of the internal heater and water tank (if available in the project).
5. welded on chimney pipe and body legs.

After installing the furnace, a brick screen is laid out with the calculation of the indent in 3-5 cm from the walls of the device. The width of the masonry is usually taken in half a brick, small windows are left in the lower part for air circulation.

Possible installation difficulties

At independent work over the manufacture of the device the following errors occur:

• discrepancy between the dimensions of the device and the steam room- leads either to rapid overheating of the air, or to the inability to create a comfortable temperature;
• insufficiently thorough insulation of the chimney- due to constant contact with hot air, the chimney most often causes fire hazards;
• incorrect position of the oven screen, too close to the walls of the case - this leads to overheating of the steel, reduces the service life.

Before dealing with the issue of installing stoves for a bath, we ourselves spent a lot of time studying this topic. Therefore, we know that people who have an idea about the designs of sauna stoves usually do not condescend to explain everything from the basics, and most of the texts on the Internet are completely written by those who are not at all in the subject.

Bath stove designs: common points and differences for different types

So what is a stove? This is a fire built inside a container. But combustion is an oxidation reaction of fuel, therefore, it cannot occur without oxygen. Therefore, we will call the oven the container through which, at least temporarily, with the dampers open, flowing air moves.

thrust

This movement is called "pull" and it occurs when there is inlet and outlet holes.

Of course, such a definition suffers from incompleteness, because it does not apply to electric heaters. AT They are heated by the passage of current through a material with high resistance. In this case, heat is released.

But back to furnaces, where heat is released due to a chemical reaction. The art of the stove-maker consists in skillfully varying the amount of incoming air, the amount of firewood in the bookmark, in order to achieve them uniform combustion and maximum complete combustion.

What will happen if the combustion is still ongoing, and the air is blocked? Instead of carbon dioxide, dangerous monoxide will begin to form - carbon monoxide . But why block the pipe if it is so dangerous? - The draft is blocked so as not to dry out the stove when the firewood burned out, because along with the air, heat also flies into the pipe.

So, we know about the role of air. Let's see a diagram of a simple draft furnace. What must be in it? Three things:

• air inlet (blower or firebox door);
• firebox (aka firebox);
• outlet (chimney).

The first division of stoves can be carried out according to the presence or absence of a blower: without it, they are called "deaf hearth ovens". In this case, air is supplied through the open firebox door. Here's what it looks like in cross section:

Kamenka

Now let's ask a question: what do all sauna stoves have, but absent from stoves that heat houses? Of course it is heater. The container in which the stones lie is available for all stoves in the bath, even for. The stones themselves are used as batteries- they store heat. This is necessary so that the high temperature in the steam room lasts longer. Their other function is creating light steam, but in this capacity they are needed only in a Russian bath.

There are two classifications of heaters according to different criteria: one takes into account contact with fire in the furnace, the second - contact with air.

If there are gaps between the firebox and the heater through which the stones are licked by flames, then this flow heater.

If the barrier is deaf, then the heater is called deaf.

When the container with stones is inside.

Furnaces are either brick, or metal. No other is given. The first are considered very inertial - It takes hours to heat them up, as well as to cool them down.. The latter are able to heat up in half an hour and during the same time have time to overheat the steam room. Excellent property!

When choosing a design, you determine for yourself how inertial its body should be. At your disposal are not only "clean" options: purely brick, purely, but also combined. For example, to increase the inertia of a metal stove, you can either use internal lining of the firebox and heater, or with the help of external casing-sarcophagus. Moreover, the option with a casing and lining at the same time is not excluded).

Important! Answer the question, what time is optimal for you to kindle the furnace - it determines the degree of inertia of the body.

Smoke

What happens when fuel burns? Heat is released, combustion products are formed - steam, gases and solids. The latter we call soot, soot, and all together - smoke. At the time of exit from the furnace, this mixture is also heated to several hundred degrees. And if you don't put some heat-consuming obstacle, all this heat will corny fly away into the pipe to enhance the greenhouse effect on our planet.

However, once upon a time not only obstacles, but also pipes did not exist. Because it was not from wood that they were made! Therefore, the first way to remove smoke - chimneyless, "black".

In the simplest version, this pile of stones stacked over a fire. In the modern version, this is a brick hearth, which keeps the same pile of stones from spreading. But the principle is the same: he made a fire under the stones, waited for the firewood to burn out, let the smoke out into the street through or - and you can bathe by pouring water on the heated stones.

Then appears smoke box- akin to a kitchen hood - the same separated from the stove. A similar option can still be found in the bath today.

Then appears chimney pipe. And if it is inserted into the stove without any fuss (it doesn’t matter in the firebox or heater), then such a stove will be called once-through. Heat here is not taken from the furnace gases, so it has the lowest efficiency.

But heat is a pity, so the idea of ​​the inventors went this way: what if we increase the path that smoke passes inside the furnace? This is how the system came into being. smoke circulation, where the smoke runs with obstacles inside the channels that lead it up and down, or horizontally to the right and left. The system is excellent for heat extraction, but with its drawbacks - channels, especially horizontal ones, should be cleaned regularly otherwise there will be no traction.

An alternative to the smoke circulation system has become bell stove. There are no channels in it, it practically does not depend on traction. Hot furnace gases, leaving the firebox, find themselves under a hood, where they actively share heat with the furnace mass. New portions of hot furnace gases rise, displacing the cooled ones down and into the chimney.

However everything said about the chimney primarily refers to brick stoves. You rarely see a metal stove with smoke circulation. Usually they are primitive - direct-flow, except that they have flame dividers. Yes, and their dimensions are much smaller than those of brick ones, there you can’t walk around with moves, and there is no heat-intensive material - where to take the heat?

The stove ends with a chimney. Remains optional - tank or heat exchanger, which can also be indicated on the sauna stove diagram. But it is better to talk about this when analyzing specific structures, to which, in fact, we are moving on.

Scheme of a brick sauna stove

From the foregoing, it already followed that there are several basic schemes of a brick oven:

• straight-through;
• with smoke circulation;
• bell-shaped.

However, each allows for many implementation options. In other words, the above diagrams clearly demonstrate the characteristic, but do not exhaust the possible.

Sauna oven device: direct-flow

Furnace made of metal with a lined fuel core

Lining is the laying out of fireclay or simply refractory bricks of the insides of the stove. At the same time, the inertia sharply increases, and with it, the heating time. So, if you need to overheat the steam room in half an hour, the lining will be superfluous.

BUT! She has one important plus: it increases the life of the furnace, because its body is subjected to less temperature stress. And this is in addition to the fact that such an oven keeps heat longer.

We show the simplest scheme with a firebox lining and a closed heater:

Options for the location of the water tank on a metal stove

Above, you have already seen that the tank can simply be placed on top of the stove and everything will heat up. But you can do it differently.

Below - schemes for combining the heater and the tank, from the simplest ones, where a bucket is buried in stones or a heater is brought into a separate container where furnace gases enter, while the tank stands directly above the fire (the water boils before the stones heat up) to variations on the rational use of the top of the furnace, where you can separate the space for the tank horizontally or vertically, or you can go around the heater on both sides, leaving an air pocket on one of the opposite sides, which, as they say, promotes heat transfer. Full details are provided.

Options for the location of the tank and heater:

Yes, and of course, always when there is a need for hot water, you can replace the tank with a heat exchanger of one type or another. If you are interested in learning more about this, read on.

Metal heater from a pipe

On our website you can find, which tells how to make such a heater. Here we will only present the schemes themselves with some comments.

So, the choice of the owner has two options for a stove from a pipe:

• vertical;
• horizontal.

Usually take a pipe half a meter in diameter. The figure shows that the pipe can be lined from the inside(or you can leave it as is, then it will burn out faster). Fireclay along the walls is shown in yellow.

Also, the owner is free to choose a stove with a deaf hearth or blower. The difference between them was discussed above. But pay attention to the oven door with a blind hearth- in order not to keep it open, holes are drilled in it, which provide air flow if the pipe is not blocked at the top with a gate. If you lengthen it a little due to the blower, then the thrust will be regulated by opening blower door. Then the holes become redundant.

The water tank is shown in both pictures, but is actually optional. Some make it lower by welding a metal box with a lid on the side of the furnace - this for ease of pouring in the absence of cold water supply in the bath.

The horizontal stove has a completely different structure - it turns out a heater open. This is a welded stone basket - with this stove good steam not receive.

Yes, and in the picture we depicted the grate (under the flame) recognizable, but in reality its grate perpendicular to the direction you see here.

The water tank is welded to the rear wall of the stove.

Useful video

Not just diagrams, but also a description of the advantages and disadvantages of a vertical and horizontal design (not necessarily from a pipe). Plus interesting life hacks.

Even more schemes, even more explanations about them. However, the main concern of the author of the video is that you succeed. So sauna lovers can not watch it).

We hope that you still received some kind of holistic understanding of what a sauna stove is. The rest can only be learned through practice and experiment. Good luck to you!

At the moment, the owners can equip their bathhouse with a variety of stove designs, but the most popular are wood-burning metal structures - heater stoves. These ovens have many advantages:

• such a stove heats up very quickly - after about 1.5–2 hours it is already possible to proceed to bath procedures;
• production cost is minimal;
• service life - from 5 to 25 years, depending on the quality of welding and metal thickness;
• subject to the production technology, there is no danger of smoke in the room, as well as an explosion.

Despite the simplicity of stoves, heaters, they are by no means cheap. But if you have skills in welding, then it is quite possible to make the simplest design yourself. At the same time, it can even be equipped with a tank for heating water.

What is better to make a metal stove for a bath

For self-manufacturing metal stove-heater must use ferrous metal with a thickness of at least 5 mm (service life of approximately 5-7 years). Leading manufacturers offer steel models with a thickness of about 10 mm for combustion chambers and a little less for stone bunkers and water tanks.

A metal furnace can be made with a square or rectangular section of sheet metal, but this implies an extra weld and a difficult metal bending operation. So home craftsmen most often prefer to use ready-made pipes (of any section) or even ordinary metal barrels if they can find containers with suitable dimensions and wall thicknesses.

The general scheme of the device of a home-made stove-heater

A metal sauna stove usually includes three main compartments (from bottom to top):

1. fuel chamber (firebox);
2. bunker with stones;
3. tank with water.

It is worth considering each element in more detail.

fuel chamber . Here the combustion process will take place, for which it is necessary wood loading door and a hole for air supply - blew. It is also necessary to remove the ashes so that you do not have to shovel everything, including firewood, from the firebox every time. This is done through an ash pan - a special grate.

From the fuel chamber, the heat from the homemade stove will rise to bunker with stones . To ensure optimal heat transfer, the stones must be laid on a grate that will connect the firebox and the stone bunker. Such bunkers are closed and open. In our case, it will be closed. Well, in order to change stones and splash water on them, we will make a special door on the side of our stove (90 ° from the door for loading firewood).

Then the heat will rise to tank with water. The most effective way to distribute this heat is to conduct it through the chimney. He will also be responsible for the removal of gases - combustion products. You can pour water into the tank through the top, but to make it convenient to drain warm water, a tap should be welded at the bottom of the water tank.

Here, in fact, is a brief device for a home-made metal stove for a bath. You can proceed to the manufacturing process.

Instructions for making a stove-heater from a metal pipe

To create in artisanal conditions a metal sauna stove with a diameter of 700 mm and a height (together with a tank) of about 1600 mm, we will need:

• steel sheet with a thickness of more than 10 mm (dimensions of at least 2.2 × 1 meter);
• · metal pipe 1600 mm long with wall thickness from 7 to 10 mm;
• chimney pipe (arbitrary diameter from 100 mm, wall thickness - about 5 mm);
• a metal rod with a thickness of about 10 mm;
• grate (sold in hardware stores, must be steel or cast iron);
• loops 8 pieces and heck 3 pieces;
• faucet with valve.

The following tools are required for the job:

• saw-grinder;
• · welding machine;
• scissors for metal;
• · measuring tool.

Phased work plan

1. We cut the pipe into two segments: 0.9 m and 0.7 m.

2. At the bottom of the pipe (under the future firebox, indented from the “bottom” by about 7-10 cm. You can make a blower at the very bottom, then it will be easier to remove the ash - you just need to substitute a suitable metal container under the ash hole) we do a rectangular hole 20 × 5 cm is the future blower. You need to work carefully in order to subsequently use the piece obtained when cutting out as a door. Above the blower, we cut a hole for loading fuel, also trying not to damage the metal.

3. Having welded hinges and lugs for latches on the outside to the pipe, and latches on the doors themselves, we install doors for the blower and for the loading chamber.

4. We cut out a circle with a diameter of 0.7 meters from a metal sheet, and in its middle there is a hole the size of an acquired grate. If it was not possible to purchase it, you can build it yourself from a durable steel bar. We weld the resulting metal circle inside the pipe just above the blower. The construction of the firebox can be considered complete.

5. We make a cutout on the side (at 90 ° from the loading door and blower) for pouring stones. We install the door according to the above technology.

6. Now you need to build a platform on which the stones will be laid. We will make it from metal rods. The dimensions of the cell are taken taking into account the size of the stones that we plan to fill in the heater.

7. Now you can fill in the stones. After that, we cut out a circle with a diameter of 0.7 meters from a metal sheet. In it we make a hole for the chimney, which should be located closer to the far wall of our stove. We weld the pipe, after which we weld the resulting circle with a chimney on top of our stone bunker. You can proceed to the manufacture of a water tank.

8. We weld a piece 0.7 meters long to our long piece of a large pipe.

9. We make a hole for the tap in our water tank and fix it by welding.

10. Cut out a circle with a diameter of 0.7 meters from a steel sheet, cut it into two unequal parts. In the larger one we make a hole for the chimney. We fit this part on top of the entire structure, passing the chimney through the hole. We weld a hole around the chimney.

11. It remains only to fix the smaller piece from the steel circle with the help of loops - water will be poured through this hatch. Everything, our home-made metal stove-heater is ready!

Having the skills of metal carving and welding, you can make a stove for a bath with your own hands according to a fairly simple drawing. True, this will require some time and material costs, but the savings will be very significant. And most importantly, such a furnace will work no worse than a purchased one.

Video - do-it-yourself homemade metal oven