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For a long time we have had a desire to see the sights of our native Belarus, but as usual, we manage to see a lot abroad, but there is not enough time to drive around our historical places. But thanks to TM Naliboki, who organized a blog tour for us, we went to Novogrudok, where we not only walked around the city with a local guide, saw the Novogrudok castle, but also drove around the city's outskirts, where, as it turned out, there are no less sights.

The first day of our program was sports-oriented, we sailed along the Neman in kayaks. I must say, this activity is very memorable, especially when it rains all day. Read more about our water adventures in kayaks.

On the second day, the weather was fine and nothing could spoil our walk through the ancient Belarusian city of Novogrudok. As usual in this city, sightseeing begins with the Novogrudok Castle, which is located in the very center of the city.

The Novogrudok castle, or rather its ruins, which are located on the Castle Hill in Novogrudok, left us with a double impression. The first is, of course, that one of the surviving towers is indeed a part of our great history, and the second one is already a masterpiece of Belarusian restoration.

Only two towers of the Novogrudok castle have survived to our times - Shchitovka or Central, this is the one that looks like an old building and Kostelnaya, so it was restored.

We, of course, were more interested in the Shchitovka tower, we wanted to touch and feel all its age-old power. It is noteworthy that in its majestic time, the tower was five-story and reached a height of 25 meters, but unfortunately time did not spare it either.

To the right of the Central Tower is the Church, as we think it got its name, since its main wall faces the Farny Church, which will be discussed below.

I don't want to talk a lot about what happened to the tower after the Belarusian specialists undertook to reconstruct it, it seems to us that the result is obvious in the photo. The only thing that can be seen here is that having survived so many wars, the Church Tower could not resist the modern Belarusian realities.

Church tower - no comments

Of course, it is the ruins of the Novogrudok castle that are the main attractions of Novogrudok, but it is worth noting that this is not the only building or place in the city that has historical value. We will try to stop in more detail about each interesting place in Novogrudok and share our impressions.

By the way, if you decide to stay overnight in Novogrudok in order to slowly see all its sights, then almost in the very center of the city you can spend the night in an inexpensive hotel Crocus.

farny church

It is not necessary to go far from the Novogrudok castle to see some historical places of the city. Directly from the Castle Hill offers a great view of the Farny Church.

This is a rather old building in Novogruk, built back in the time of the Grand Duchy of Lithuania in the Gothic style. This church is associated with several historical events: one of them is the wedding of the Polish king and the second is the baptism of the great Belarusian poet Adam Mickiewicz.

Church of St. Michael the Archangel

The Catholic Church of St. Michael is a functioning church built in the Baroque style in the 17th century. You should definitely go inside the church to see the very beautiful plaster sculptures of the Saints, which are located throughout the church.

There are not so many mosques in Belarus, only 3 or 4. And one of them is in Novogrudok, the building is a typical Tatar house with a minaret. The mosque is made of wood and is a monument of wooden architecture, although if it weren’t for the crescent on the dome, it’s very hard to guess what kind of building it is, its appearance is so modest.

Church of St. Nicholas

The Orthodox functioning church of St. Nicholas is located near the central square of the city and attracts the views of a few tourists in Novogrudok. It is noteworthy that this temple was founded as the Church of St. Anthony at the Franciscan monastery.

Monument to Adam Mickiewicz

Adam Mickiewicz was born in Novogrudok and lived in this city all his childhood before entering Vilna University. Recognized and revered in Poland, Lithuania and other countries, Belarus has a modest monument in Novogrudok and a small museum, which we also recommend visiting.

Mound of Immortality

This monument in Novogrudok is also inextricably linked with the poet Adam Mickiewicz, because it was in his honor that this barrow was built in the city. Interesting fact As the construction of the mound took place, for several years, admirers of Mickiewicz's talent brought land from their homeland in honor of the poet's immortality, from which, it should be noted, a good view of the Novogrudok Castle and the central park of the city opens.

Boriso-Gleb Church

Another religious building in Novogrudok in the Gothic style is the Boriso-Gleb Church. During its long history, and the temple is the oldest in Novogrudok, confessions have changed several times, but now it is a functioning Orthodox cathedral.

Picture gallery

Art lovers may also be interested in Novogrudok. In the very center of the city, in the style of a noble estate, there is a private art gallery of the Belarusian artist Kastus Kachan. Inside there are two spacious rooms, in which about a hundred works of the Belarusian master of painting and still life are presented.

What to see in the vicinity of Novogrudok

Of course, one could say that our walk around Novogrudok is over, but we recommend that you go further with us and see what sights are located in the vicinity of the city. To our ignorance and great surprise, there were a lot of them, and since we had a local guide, he showed us not only must see places, but also those that are not written about in guidebooks.

Having left Novogrudok, we headed to Lyubcha, where the Lyubcha Castle, unique in its modern history, is located. The building is located on the high bank of the Neman, fortified with boulders, and is surrounded by a moat. Several towers and buildings of the castle have survived to our times, and now restoration work is being actively carried out, which are discussed below.

The uniqueness of this castle is that, being a state object, it is the only object in the world, the restoration of which takes place only with the money of sponsors and volunteers, who have been recreating the Lyubcha Castle bit by bit for more than 10 years.

Those who are able and willing to make their contribution to the reconstruction of this facility can read the conditions on the official website - lubcza.by

AT last years the Gate Tower and the Corner Tower with an outbuilding were restored, as well as the defensive wall connecting these towers. The gate tower has a very interesting architecture: cubic at the bottom and octagonal at the top.

In the photo below you can see what the Lubcha Castle looked like before.

In Soviet times, on the site of the foundation of the castle, which was badly destroyed after the war, a school was built, the building of which has survived to this day.

Khreptovichi estate in Shchorsy

The picture that we saw only causes regret about the desolation of our historical sights.

The only normally preserved building in the Khreptovich estate is the so-called White House or Library.

Balcony in the White House - Khreptovich Library

Outbuildings have been preserved not far from the Khreptovichi estate, and it is very difficult to believe that this is just a utility yard. Outbuildings were built in the castle style, in addition to the impressive red brick walls, there are round corner towers.

According to our guide, a few years ago people lived here, the land was cultivated and a linden grove bloomed, but what is left of it now can be seen in the photo.

Tower - inside view

Our next stop is in the village of Prinemanskoye, where you can see a monument to one of the leaders of the 1863 uprising. This monument is not included in the tourist routes, so it is not so easy to find it, but if you go from Lyubcha to Shchorsy, you need to stop near the Prinemansky sign.

It is surprising that the monument survived several wars and the Soviet regime, perhaps due to such a secluded location.

Berezovets - Trinity Church

Well, at the end of our article, we want to talk about the sights that eclipsed that day all the others seen earlier. This is the destroyed Trinity Church in the village of Berezovets.

This place is definitely worth seeing!

The stone temple was erected in Berezovets at the beginning of the 20th century, but during the First World War it was destroyed and, unfortunately, was no longer restored, but on the other hand, this is probably for the better, in the form it is now, the church has a special eye-catching appearance.

What struck us to the core was the attitude local residents to the ruined shrine. When we drove up to the church, an 80-year-old grandmother came out and said that they take care of the territory of the temple in almost the entire village, remove debris and plants. It deserves respect.

Attractions on the map

Well, in conclusion, what I want to say. This trip to our native places of Belarus made us think a lot and rethink a lot, but we decided for ourselves that to go and see local sights is not worse, and even more interesting than foreign ones. For the seen Novogrudok castle and other sights of Novogrudok, as well as little-known places that we managed to see, special thanks to the organizers of the trip, TM Naliboki. Special thanks to Ivan Muravyov and Alexander Popkov for the photos provided from above.

Novogrudok is a place that breathes history. Not modernized and not embellished history. Novogrudok at one time was one of the main political centers of the so-called ON. The city was formed at the request of Yaroslav the Wise - in 1044 he laid a fortress on this site.

How to get there:

The easiest way to get to Novogrudok is by private transport, this is quite an acceptable option for a weekend itinerary, besides, along the way you can capture and - these two significant Belarusian towns are very close to each other. The city is located in the Grodno region, 145 km from Minsk, below is the route from Minsk:

If you are departing from another city, then by clicking on the enlarged map you can change the starting point of the route. A less convenient, but also acceptable option is a bus, they leave from the Vostochny bus station, and go to their destination for about 3 hours, they go quite often.

Sights and photos of the city:

Novogrudok was the first capital of the Grand Duchy of Lithuania - an important stage in the history of Belarus. The first prince of the Grand Duchy of Lithuania Mindovg lived in the Novogrudok castle on the Castle Hill. The town was formed later, and now the castle turned out to be almost the outskirts. Start your journey from the ruins of the castle or leave it for later - the choice is yours.

Yes, all that remains of the former grandeur of the Novogrudok Castle is just two walls and traces of a stone fortification, but it is in this place that you feel and imagine “how it was”. This is a typical castle of the Middle Ages: it stands on a hill outside the city and a wide road leads to it. It is difficult for enemies to get close to the hill, but it is more convenient for the guards of the castle from the hill to look out for and attack these very opponents. But it cannot be said that for this small town the ruins of the castle are the main attraction.

Novogrudok is famous for its people - quite well-known figures Belarusian culture - mainly writers. These are the great Polish and Belarusian poet Adam Mickiewicz, poets Jan Chechet, Vincent Korotynsky. Adam Mickiewicz, who was born in Novogrudok in 1801, has a whole house-museum in the city, located in a picturesque park.

On the other side of the road, closer to the ruins of the castle, there is a monument to the inspired poet. And even further rises the barrow, to which an old staircase leads, which, rising up, encircles the barrow. Not far from the central part are the residential buildings of the Franciscan monastery and the monastery of the Nazarenes. The city is generally characterized by a high concentration of historical sites around the center. And so you feel just surrounded by history, at the same time, you merge into history quite naturally and organically. In the very center, ordinary urban buildings have been preserved and significantly decorated the Central Square.

In the city, as in many former Belarusian "towns", there is a Jewish, Tatar, Catholic and Orthodox cemetery, and the latter are nearby without any separation between them. Different confessions are also represented by different types of religious buildings: the city has churches, temples, churches, a mosque.

Most of the churches, the most famous of which is the Farny Church of the Transfiguration of the Lord, founded in 1395 by Prince Vytautas. It organically fits into the private quarter of ordinary wooden houses and is perfectly visible from the hill, on which the ruins of the Novogrudok castle are located.

inside the church is interesting, but without frills, after

In the very heart of the so-called Black Russia, the city of Novogrudok, amazing in its beauty and richness of the historical past, is located. The first documentary mention of it dates back to the first half of the 11th century, namely by 1044, however, numerous archaeological studies allow us to unequivocally say that the first traces of a settlement on this land existed from the end of the 10th century. It arose much later. For many centuries Novogrudok developed as a trade and craft center of the country. Today, rest in Novogrudok is included in many tourist programs, and the old part of the city, located on a hill, still has an irresistible attraction.

Getting to Novogrudok

Russian tourists, first of all, should get to Minsk. If you decide to travel by air, Aeroflot and Belavia operate direct flights from some Russian cities, including Moscow (6 flights daily), Novosibirsk (2 flights a week), St. Petersburg (2 flights daily) and other cities. You can also use the services of the train, they run from many regions of Russia (about a dozen trains from Moscow every day). There are bus routes from Russia and a number of CIS countries.

Since Novogrudok does not have a railway connection, and the nearest station Novelnya is located 22 km from the city, the bus is considered the most convenient way to get to Novogrudok. The Novogrudok bus station accepts both suburban and international routes. If you are coming from Minsk, buses to Novogrudok depart daily from the capital's Vostochny bus station. There are other routes Minsk-Svityaz, Minsk-village Boroviki (health resort Radon). Estimated fare - $ 7, following to Novogrudok, to the village of Boroviki - $ 8.4. If you travel from Grodno 7.7-8.4$, from Brest - 13.8$.

Decided to travel with your own car? You will be inspired by a trip to America, take a look. Coming from Minsk, remember, the distance will be about 150 km. To do this, follow from the Moscow Ring Road to the city of Dzerzhinsk (about 41 km), then follow to the city of Stolbtsy (38 km from Dzerzhinsk), and finally head for Novogrudok (70 km from Stolbtsy). The total time spent on the road is approximately 2 hours, the distance is 150 km.

What to see in Novogrudok

For tourists, the city of Novogrudok is remarkable, first of all, for its ancient architecture. First of all, history buffs should visit the Novogrudok Castle, the foundation of which was laid in the period of the XIII-XVI centuries and served as the residences of the rulers of the Grand Duchy of Lithuania. Unfortunately, due to numerous hostilities by the XVIII century. it was destroyed, at the moment only fragments of the previously existing castle have been preserved. Next, go to Mount Mindovg, the founder of the Grand Duchy of Lithuania, where a monument was erected in his honor.

What Novogrudok is rich in is religious buildings. Not far from the central square is the most important monument of ancient Belarusian architecture - the 16th-century Borisoglebskaya Church, which combines Gothic and Renaissance features. Take a look at the Nicholas Church (XVIII century), built in the style of a fusion of baroque and pseudo-Byzantine style, as well as the Mikhailovsky Church (XVII century) in the style of classicism and baroque. Farny Church, founded in the 14th century, is considered one of the oldest churches in the region.

Some significant sights are scattered outside Novogrudok. Fragments of the 16th-century Lyubcha Castle can be seen 26 km away. In the village of Shchorsy, there are fragments of the previously existing Khreptovichi palace and park ensemble of the 18th century. If you are in Russia - visit.

A considerable number of sights are inextricably linked with the name of the outstanding poet Adam Mickiewicz. Not far from the castle there is a monument to Mickiewicz, with north side Novogrudok castle is located the mound of Adam Mickiewicz (otherwise - the mound of Immortality). In the house-museum of Mickiewicz you can get acquainted with the work, as well as the life of the poet, the exposition presents interior items of the 19th century, as well as books and personal items.

Prices in shops and hotels

Prices in Novogrudok are noticeably lower than in Russia, as well as in neighboring countries.

Accommodation services here are represented by three hotels: the Novogrudok hotel, located in the very heart of the city, the Pansky House near Mindovga Mountain and the Mickiewicz Museum, as well as the NZGA hotel. The average cost of living is $20. If the main thing for you is comfortable living, then rural estates are for your attention. The conditions here are very different, but you can often find quite a decent option for $25 per person.

The cost of goods here is lower than in the capital, for example, the cost of bread is $0.8, meat - $4-5, milk - $0.7, alcoholic beverages $8-10. Prices for clothes here are quite high, for example, jeans will cost you $35, a T-shirt - $4, shoes $30-97. By the way, there is a Tax free system for goods worth at least 800 thousand Belarusian rubles. rub. ($82). Tourists who want to bring memorable souvenirs from their holidays can choose between ordinary plastic figurines starting at $4, while more affluent city guests can purchase products made from local crystal from $153. Bed sets made of Belarusian linen and other quality items made of this material will cost from $15.

Meals in Novogrudok

It should be noted that Belarusian cuisine is very satisfying and varied. The basis of many local dishes is potatoes. He has been given a special place. After all, the local cuisine knows more than two and a half dozen dishes from this vegetable, each of them is unique in its own way. If you arrive in Novogrudok, be sure to try the famous and very tasty Belarusian dish - potato pancakes. However, one should not assume that Belarusians eat only potatoes; the menu of local restaurants also contains meat and vegetable ingredients. Don't forget dairy products.

In fact, the Belarusian cuisine will please with a variety of dishes that you want to taste everything at once, a considerable number of restaurants and cafes invite tourists to spend time with them. One of the leading restaurants in Novogrudok is Svityaz, which offers guests local and Western cuisine. At the Novogrudok hotel there is a Shanson restaurant, and at the Panskiy Dom hotel there is a cafe Old Town. If your choice fell on living in rural estates, caring hostesses will certainly treat you to local dishes prepared only from the freshest products.

If you went to one of the local supermarkets and large stores, remember that the prices here are strictly fixed. You can drop the price only in local markets.

After visiting local attractions, you will surely decide to have a delicious meal at a local restaurant or cafe. Remember, in Novogrudok, however, as well as throughout the country, it is customary to leave a tip. Their size is set based on the account, in general, about 10% or more.

To move around the city, use the services of a local taxi, however, the fare, as a rule, is rounded up. It is better to discuss the cost of the trip in advance.

If you prefer bank cards, be careful: they are accepted for payment only in large shopping centers, as well as in hotels and supermarkets.

The opening hours of local supermarkets are from 8 am to 9 pm. There are exceptions.

Novogrudok is the administrative center of the Novogrudok district of the Grodno region. The city is located 132 km from Minsk, 154 km from Grodno. Novogrudok is located at the intersection of three important roads: P5 (Baranovichi - Novogrudok - Ivye), P10 (Lyubcha - Novogrudok - Dyatlovo) and P11 (Porechany - Novogrudok - Nesvizh), as well as 50 km from the main Belarusian highway M1 (Brest - Minsk - border of the Russian Federation).

History of development - Novogrudok

Novogrudok- one of the oldest cities. Its history is closely connected with the birth Grand Duchy of Lithuania. According to the excavations that were carried out on the territory of the city, there was a settlement here already in the 10th century. At the same time, the inhabitants were already trading with Byzantium, the Middle East and other areas. Further, archaeologists report that the settlement consisted of two unfortified parts. Dedinets appeared only in the second half of the 11th century, and a settlement was formed on the territory of the Small Castle. In the annals, the first mention is connected with the beginning of the existence of Novogrudok and refers to 1044. In the next century, the foundation of the future impregnable fortress was laid.

In 1253, the first prince of the Grand Duchy of Lithuania was crowned in this place. Mindovg. This was the reason why Novogrudok became the first capital of the future great state. In the future, around the city, the descendants of Mindovg unite the lands of the Grand Duchy of Lithuania: Pinsk, Nalshany and Devoltva. In the XIV century, they begin to build a stone one, the construction of which was completed only two centuries later. The result was an impressive building that had seven towers and for a long time did not succumb to any conqueror.

In 1316, the department of the Orthodox metropolitan appeared in Novogrudok. Then she becomes Uniate, after the conclusion Union of Brest in 1596. In the 16th century, about 10 churches operated on the territory of the city. But history decreed that later a synagogue, a mosque, as well as 5 churches and 6 monasteries appeared here. It is worth noting that it was in the far church of Navahrudok that the King of Poland Jagiello married Sophia Golshanskaya, who laid the foundation for the existence of a new dynasty of Jagielons.

At the beginning of the 16th century, Novogrudok became the center of the voivodship, and in 1511 it received Magdeburg law. The coat of arms, which, in accordance with the rules, the city received, had the image of the Archangel Michael. Unfortunately, the following centuries brought devastation and extinction to this place due to city fires, epidemics and military events. At the end of the 18th century, Novogrudok became part of the Russian Empire in connection with the divisions Commonwealth. Further, it is a county town.

It is impossible not to note the activity of the local gentry. Representatives of Novogrudok selflessly took part in the uprisings of 1830-1831, as well as in the uprising led by K. Kalinovsky for which they were punished Russian authorities. the first world war this land held under German occupation during which it fell into a state of ruin. And already in 1919 she came here Soviet authority, but not for long: as a result of the Soviet-Polish war, Novogrudok became part of Polish state until 1939. The Great Patriotic War also passed through the lands of Novogrudok. Tragic events took place near this city, the so-called "Novogrudok cauldron", when the Red Army units were surrounded by German invaders. During the war years, more than 45 thousand people died here. After liberation, restoration work began. Since 1954, Novogrudok has officially become a city of the Grodno region.

For a long time of existence, the city was often exposed to external destructive influences: wars, fires, uprisings. However, he was able to survive and reach our days as a modern settlement. Today it is a regional center in which unique ones have been preserved, developed, picturesque places and a pleasant atmosphere have been created. This region is rich in industrial production, a network of schools, cultural facilities and hospitals.

Tourism potential - Novogrudok

One of the most ancient Belarusian cities, the capital of the Grand Duchy of Lithuania and a modern city today, Novogrudok- one of the popular places for tourism. This place has deep historical roots and is ready to show guests all its secrets. At the same time, each tourist will not only receive unforgettable impressions from the sights, but will also be able to have a good time in entertainment centers, as well as stay in one of the hotels.

One of the main attractions of Novogrudok is. Wars and fires destroyed most of it, however, today we can see parts of it, in particular the Shield and Church towers. There are many legends associated with this place that locals can tell. Every year they hold on the territory of the castle, which gathers thousands of spectators from all over Belarus and from neighboring countries. No less interesting place was the so-called "Mount Mindovga". This is a high hill, with which a lot of stories are connected. According to one version, it was in this place that the founder of the Grand Duchy of Lithuania, Prince Mindovg, was buried. Proponents claim that at the end of their life path he chose to be buried as a pagan. According to another version, his coronation took place on the hill. In 1993, on the occasion of the 740th anniversary of the coronation of Mindovg, a memorial sign was erected next to the hill, and in 2014, sculptors created a metal sculpture of the prince.

There are other historical buildings in Novogrudok. These include the central square, the ordinary building, which was created under the Polish influence, as well as the railway station. It is worth noting that at the beginning of the 20th century, during the First World War, a narrow-gauge railway was built here. Railway , which connected Novoelnya and Lyubcha. Its main purpose was military. Further, after the Great Patriotic War, the road was restored after the destruction, but over time it lost its relevance and was dismantled. The station building is today used as a bus station.

The fate of one of the most famous natives of the Belarusian lands is closely connected with Novogrudok Adam Mickiewicz. The city today has a museum dedicated to his life and work, and there is also a mound that was poured in his honor and. was built in 1924-1931 and is a rather rare representative of this type of monument: it is not often that a barrow is built in honor of a specific person. By the way, it is worth noting that in Novogrudok there is a bust of Vladimir Vysotsky, who lived near the city with Marina Vladi.

Unique is Jewish Resistance Museum which was founded in 2007. The place was not chosen by chance: in the barracks during the Great Patriotic War until 1943 there was a ghetto. However, 227 captives decided to fight for their lives and were able to dig a tunnel that led into the forest. As a result, these lives were saved with the help of Belsky's Jewish partisan detachment. In 2007, archaeological excavations were carried out, which confirmed the reality of the existence of the tunnel, from that moment the museum began to be created. Today he can show the history of the Holocaust both in general and in relation to the Novogrudok region.

Quite modern and interesting Museum of the Lost Heritage. This is an open-air exhibition, which is a miniature copy of architectural monument Novogrudok lands that were lost for one reason or another. Among the exhibits there is a model of the church that once stood on the Castle Hill, Novogrudok Town Hall, a synagogue and many others. It is also worth noting the center of crafts, which was created with the aim of preserving and reviving different types crafts, as well as for classes and master classes. Today it is popular not only among locals, but also among tourists.

An attractive contemporary arts center has become Gallery Kastus Kachan which opened its doors in 2014. The famous and talented artist decided to create a real gallery much earlier, and as a result he chose this place: a former estate of the 19th century. The original building was in disrepair, but the artist created a design for a new building with historical accuracy. Today, this is an unusual place not only for excursions and acquaintance with the works of K. Kachan, but also an excellent place for inspiration and creativity of various kinds for everyone who knows how to see beauty.

The city is also rich in religious architectural monuments. The most ancient are, and. An interesting building is one that was built in the 18th century. But not only Christian temples have survived to this day. In Novogrudok you can see the wooden mosque of 1855. Believers come here in our time.

Thus, it can be said that Novogrudok- a great place to visit. Here you can feel the ancient history, listen to the legends and touch the monuments of past centuries. At the same time, this city provides an opportunity to spend time culturally, relax and visit various institutions.

Novogrudok is a town (29 thousand inhabitants) in the Grodno region of Belarus, halfway between Minsk and Grodno (150 kilometers each). Although I was there in February 2008, it is with a post about Novogrudok that I open, from which I returned the other day. I did not visit this extremely picturesque town for the second time, so I will use my old photographs. I will tell about what I saw during this trip later, and I will start the series right here: Novogrudok is the heart of Black Russia, the most likely place of its origin, and simply its quintessence.

The first attraction of Novogrudok is its location: the city stands on one of the highest points of Belarus (323m above sea level), and on the outskirts from Minsk in dense fog it seemed to me that the bus was climbing into real mountains. The city stands very beautifully on the hills, and on one of the flat areas is the former Market Square (guess what it is called now):

There is a certain dialectic in this. From one point - a typical Lenin Square, as in hundreds of regional centers of Russia and Belarus, even the right shopping malls in the style of classicism are available. And if you turn 180 degrees - and from the same point you see the completely correct Market Square, as in small towns in Poland, the Baltic States, Western Ukraine:

The houses under gable roofs are very picturesque, although in general this architecture is typical for Western Belarus:

Here is the St. Nicholas Church, rebuilt in 1846 from the Franciscan Church (1780). The situation for Belarus is supertypical. The gilded iconostasis looks strange to the Russian eye under the lancet vaults:

And opposite the shopping arcade is an old park, and in the park is the Mickiewicz estate. Adam Mickiewicz was born in Novogrudok in 1798 and lived here until 1817, when he left to enter Vilna University. But the small homeland left an imprint in his work - for example, the events of the poem "Grazhina" unfold precisely in medieval Novogrudok.

The house-museum was organized in 1920, and opened in 1931 - Novogrudok (like the whole of Black Russia) was part of Poland in the interwar period. In 1941, the house was destroyed by an air bomb, and restored only on the 100th anniversary of Mickiewicz's death in 1955. However, much has survived, and most of the things in the house are authentic. But I'm not sure that the place is authentic - it's too convenient, almost on the main square.

I was here on Monday, so I didn't get inside. And on another day, I would hardly have gone - I know Mickiewicz's work only in retellings, and I see no reason to visit the museum of a writer whom I have not read. Museum yard sweeper old woman, either did not understand, or did not want to understand Russian - I thought that she was probably a Pole. In the modern Grodno region, Poles make up about 21% of the population.

The market square has the shape of an irregular triangle, and at its farthest "top" from the shopping arcade is the Church of Michael the Archangel (1724), similar to a chest:

Roads from the square diverge in different directions. Let's go one by one, clockwise. Between the stone houses near St. Nicholas Church there is a very beautiful street, in the fog it acquires a Gothic mystery:

And even without fog, it is very colorful - a rare corner of the ancient city in Belarus:

A couple of hundred meters from the square - Boisoglebskaya Church:

In its current form, this was originally Orthodox Church built in 1517-19, and belongs to the "temples of the defensive type", that is, it is a small fortress. Fortified churches are generally common in Eastern Europe from Estonia to Romania, but Belarus is especially rich in them.

Borisoglebskaya church is one of the most powerful. In addition, this is a rare example of Orthodox Gothic, most of whose monuments are concentrated in Black Russia.

But something else is even more interesting: it was built on the foundation of the church of the same name of the 12th century, one of the seven stone buildings of the Gorodensky principality. "Grodno Architectural School" is one of the most unusual in Ancient Russia, but only half of the monument in Grodno survived from it - another Borisoglebskaya church. In the 1140s, the brothers Boris and Gleb Vasilkovich reigned in Grodno and Novogrudok, and therefore the churches are dedicated to Saints Boris and Gleb. Novogrudok itself has been known either since 1044, or since 1117, it was the second most important city of the Gorodensky principality, and its citadel stood here.

By the way, now these photos are already historical. In the summer of 2010, the church was blatantly tastelessly "restored", equipped with golden domes and kokoshniks. There are still few photos on the Internet. It turned out really awful.

Another street, to the left of the shopping arcade, leads to the Novogrudok Castle:

It consists of two parts - the castle itself on an impregnable hill-outlier and the semicircular Small Castle separated from it by a ravine:

In the Small Castle, built up mainly with private houses, there is an interesting Mound of Immortality, poured by the Poles in 1924-31 in honor of Mickiewicz. I don’t know its height, but the difference between Novogrudok (323m) and the highest mountain in the country, Dzerzhinsky Mountain (345m), is only 22 meters - so theoretically the mound could be the highest point in Belarus. An introductory shot was taken from the mound.

Well, now let's enter the Novogrudok Castle itself - a round platform on the top of the remnant:

The ruins of two towers have been preserved here - Shield (left) and Kostelnaya (right), everything else was destroyed during the Russian-Polish (1653-67) and Northern wars. But the point is not in the buildings, but in the historical aura - on this site, in a sense, Belarus was born.

In the 13th century, the influence of the Lithuanians increased in the dying Ancient Russia. The Lithuanians in those days were classic barbarians - warlike pagans who preserved the archaic system, but mastered the modern military art. In 1238, Mindaugas, better known as Mindovg, became the ruler of Lithuania. Like his contemporary Daniil Galitsky, in 1251 Mindovg was baptized as a Catholic, in 1252 he took possession of Grodno, and in 1253 he was crowned as the King of Lithuania. However, the Lithuanian kingdom did not last long - Baptism did not help Mindovg to reconcile with the main enemy - the crusaders, and in 1261 the king renounced Christianity, again declaring himself a pagan. The title of king could only be worn by a Catholic, and its analogue was the title "Grand Duke". The Kingdom of Lithuania became the Grand Duchy of Lithuania:

It is with Novogrudok that most historians connect the Epiphany and the coronation of Mindaugas. There are other versions (for example, Kernava), but Novogrudskaya is the most popular. Here, and not in Grodno - apparently, only because Mindovg conquered Grodno later. But this act became especially important: Lithuania and the Gorodensky principalities formed a binational state, which became the main "collector" of Russian lands for a century and a half. The Lithuanians accepted baptism only in 1397, and it is with this that the name "Black Russia" is associated - that is, Russia under the rule of the pagans.

By the way, this term itself is not found in Russian chronicles - only in European chronicles. A broader concept is Lithuanian Rus: Lithuania, which always annoyed our ancestors from school textbooks, was 2/3 Slavic state with the Western Russian language in official status. And it was the Grodno region that was its core, connecting Lithuania with White Russia, Volhynia and Kyiv.

Novogrudok was the capital of the Grand Duchy of Lithuania for a short time. In 1254-58, he was part of the Galicia-Volyn principality - the first King of Russia, Daniel of Galicia, defeated Mindovg and gave these lands to his son Roman. Then the Galicians were expelled by the Lithuanian princes Voyshelk and Tovtivil. And Mindovg, two years after returning to paganism, was killed under an agreement with the Pope of Rome, Prince Daumantas, better known as Dovmont: in 1265 Voyshelk expelled him, but not just anywhere, but to Pskov, where Dovmont ruled in 1266-99 under the name of Timothy, and it was under him that the Pskov Republic became one of the strongest Russian states, as the city near the Kremlin reminds of Dovmontov Square.

However, all this was also not here. Novogrudok became a turning point in the history of Western Russia, but in subsequent centuries it was just one of the major cities of the Grand Duchy of Lithuania, gradually degrading to a county town and regional center.

At the foot of the castle is the parish (that is, the parish) Church of the Transfiguration of the Lord (1714-23) - we will go to it.

The castle looks very interesting from below. Two towers from each point form unique angles, and look almost better than the whole fortress:

A famously curved street leads downhill, along the settlement:

Past the Polish houses with wooden columns at the porch:

Straight to the church

The church was founded in wood in 1385 by Vytautas, two years before the official christening of Lithuania. But the current building was built in 1714-23 in the style of Sarmatism. The name comes from the Sarmatians, to whom the gentry traced their ancestry, and the Renaissance appearance is a kind of historicism. In the 18th century, the Commonwealth was steadily approaching death, and longing for its former greatness was this style - militant historicism. In architecture, Sarmatism is most similar to the Renaissance, which was popular during the heyday of Poland:

Three chapels of the 15th century are built into the walls of the church. The frame above clearly shows the chapel with a memorial plaque - here in 1422 the Polish king and the former Lithuanian prince, the deep old man Jagiello married the young Sofya Golshanskaya, and nevertheless they managed to give birth to an heir - this is how the Jagiellon dynasty arose, whose representatives ruled and 15 16 centuries in Lithuania, Poland, Hungary and even the Czech Republic.

Opposite the church is the wooden building of the monastery of the Nazarene women (1929):

Let's go back to the square.
If the road to the castle passed to the left of the shopping arcade, and to the church - to the right, then now we will go past the house of Mickiewicz. A few hundred meters from the square, among the shacks, suddenly a building is discovered that you would not expect here at all - a mosque!

Tatars appeared in Lithuania in the 14th century - originally soldiers who came here for contract service from the Golden Horde. Over time, dozens of Tatar settlements arose in the Grand Duchy of Lithuania, and from the war the Tatars switched to trade. Gradually, they learned the Western Russian language, which they wrote in a slightly modified Arabic script, but retained their religion. Wooden mosques can be seen in Black Russia, southern Lithuania, Polish Podlasie (Bialystok Voivodeship). The Novogrudok mosque was built in 1855 - one of the oldest surviving mosques. There are now about 10 thousand Tatars left in Belarus, the largest community (about 1 thousand) is in the town of Ivye, where I also got on this trip.

Finally, the last street past the church leads to the bus station, which is a 20-minute walk from the square. Halfway - Polish administrative building:

And the house of the governor, that is, the governor (voivodship is the Polish analogue of the region):

Near the bus station there is a whole block of such charming wooden cottages:

But basically Novogrudok is like this:

Much has been lost here - in the 19th century the town hall was demolished, during the war the ancient synagogue was destroyed along with the parishioners, several churches were blown up after the war ... And yet Novogrudok is perhaps the most colorful city of Black Russia.

In the next four parts, we will examine Grodno, and there the photos will already be fresh.

Black Russia-2010
.
Novogrudok. Heart of Black Russia.
Grodno.
Old city.
Along the Neman.
City of Tizengauza.
Miscellaneous.
Castles of the Radziwills.
World.
Nesvizh.
Cities and villages.
Lida. After Dozhinok.
Ivye. The capital of the Lithuanian Tatars.
Slonim. Belarus is a reference.
Synkovichi. Church-fortress.
Zhirovichi. Orthodox center of Belarus.
Baranovichi. City.
Baranovichi. Railway Museum.

P.S.
My old reportage about Novogrudok in two parts: and. There is much less information there, and there are much more errors, but maybe someone will be interested.