The architectural complex of the Registan in Samarkand. Registan in Samarkand. Entry prices

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"I am the Registan, I am the heart of Samarkand."

Registan- the decoration of Central Asia, one of the most magnificent squares in the world, which is located in the center of old Samarkand. Everyone who is lucky enough to be here cannot remain indifferent: the greatness and beauty Registan evoke a feeling of delight in everyone without exception.

There is legend that from the beginning of the 15th century until the beginning of the 20th century, public executions, and so that the blood was better absorbed and not noticeable, the ground was strewn with sand. That is why the area was named Registan(“reg” - sand and “stan” - place) - a place covered with sand. Among other things, it was a place where the people gathered, for it was here that all royal decrees were announced, before reading which they blew loudly on the trumpets. But do not forget that initially, at the beginning of the 15th century, the square did not yet have any of those unique monuments of medieval oriental architecture that now surround it from three sides in the form of a beautiful architectural ensemble.

Registan- a huge area paved with burnt bricks and cobblestones, on which stands ensemble of the three majestic medieval universities, included in 2001 in UNESCO World Heritage List. The center of this ensemble, considered one of the greatest buildings of the Islamic world, is , to the left of it is built, and to the right -.

The construction of the madrasah went on at different times. The first was madrasah of Ulugbek, erected in the period from 1417 to 1420. at the behest of a grandson Timur- ruler and astronomer Ulugbek. Two centuries later, by order of the Samarkand ruler Bahodur Yalangtush, two more monumental buildings were built: the Sherdor madrasah and the Tillya-Kari madrasah. Each of the three buildings has its own unique decor - filigree carved stone patterns that adorn the walls and portals. blue domes The madrasahs are made of baked bricks, and on the outside they are lined with glazed tiles, which shine brightly in the sun, no matter from which side it shines. The elegance of the precious mosaics of the Ulugbek Madrassah, the turquoise domes and majestic minarets of Sherdor, the golden wall paintings of Tillya-Kari - all this amazes, surprises and attracts.

However, there was a period when the Registan plunged into desolation. From the end of the 17th century, and especially in the first half of the 18th century, the city was in crisis: the capital of the khanate was moved to Bukhara, and the Great Silk Road stopped passing through Samarkand. The Registan madrasah was empty. According to contemporaries, there was even a period when the city was almost completely deserted, and wild animals lived in the madrasah. By the end of the 18th century, Samarkand began to gradually come to life, and life in the Registan began to boil again: numerous small shops and buildings appeared here again, and maddakhi(narrators), accompanying the narration with gestures full of drama, loudly praised the exploits of the saints and the heroism of the famous warriors of bygone days. In 1875 the area was leveled and paved. Registan, as before, became the center of the city.

Today's Registan continues to amaze and impress and will forever remain in the memory and hearts of those who touched it. Twice a year, a large music Festival"Sharq taronalari" ("Melodies of the East"), which attracts creative teams from all over Asia. Here, on the Registan, other festivals and holidays, and on weekdays they work on the square workshops and benches where tourists can buy unique items made by oriental craftsmen.

was built by the grandson of the Great Tamerlane in 1417-1420 and became the most beautiful of all his creations. The proud bulks of the ancient walls and towers of Ulugbek's madrasah rise above the legendary Registan square. As the people of Samarkand say, from the heaviness of Ulugbek's madrasah in Samarkand, "the ridge of the earth shudders."

The building of the madrasah itself faces the square with a majestic portal with a pointed arch. In addition to traditional quotations from the Koran, the following is written on the portal: "We can say about this house: it is a many-sided illumination for people, a direct path, mercy for people who have the right eyesight. A worthy sultan, the son of a sultan, the founder of this building of science and prosperity, satisfies the world and faith - Ulugbek Gurgan. May Allah keep the palace of his dominion, strengthen its foundation until the end of the existence of his state. It is truly good to live in this majestic madrasah: peace be upon you! You were kind, so enter it, remaining in it forever. Year 820 (1417) Let it be known: this building is the most excellent and highest of places in the world, the most perfect of buildings in art and work, indicates the foundations of science and guides in the path of salvation, the people of sharia and fatwa who live in it; therefore this great school is called - "live there are scientists in it.

The main facade of the madrasah facing Registan Square, highlighted by a majestic portal. An ornament made of carved mosaics, majolica tiles, carved marble, the lining of the building is decorated with calligraphic writing of amazing work - artistic perfection in its highest degree.

At the corners of the madrasah - high domes and slender minarets, above the entrance arch - a mosaic panel with a geometric ornament. In the square courtyard there is a mosque, lecture rooms and 48 hujras where students lived. Each of the hujras is divided into two rooms - for two people. The first floor of the room is designed for classes, the second - for relaxation. The rooms were lit with oil lamps. In the 15th century it was one of the best spiritual universities Muslim East. Abdurakhman Jami, a famous poet, scientist and philosopher, studied here.

Who was the architect of this amazing building, which is not inferior to the buildings of Amir Timur in artistic terms and significantly surpasses them in its strength, is unknown. Some sources say that Ulugbek personally took part in the construction of the madrasah.

For all its monumentality, the building seems light and elegant. The relief details of the walls, which would indicate their considerable thickness, are either completely absent, or they are minimized. small decorative ornament, blue-blue tiles on the walls also contribute to a feeling of lightness, and slender cylindrical minarets, as it were, fit the building into the ever-blue Samarkand sky. The decor mainly uses three colors characteristic of Samarkand masters: white, blue and light blue. The presence of other colors in the decoration speaks of the participation in construction of craftsmen from other regions.

As the saying goes tradition, in addition to a whole galaxy of famous scientists (Kazy-zade Rumi, Maulana Kashani, Maulana Kushchi and others), who lectured here on mathematics, geometry, logic, natural sciences, astronomy, theology, about man and the world soul, he taught in the madrasah himself Ulugbek. And as a rector, Ulugbek chose a simple, but very educated man - Maulan Muhammad Khavfi. On the opening day of the madrasah, Khavfi gave a lecture in the presence of 90 scholars, but no one could understand this scientific speech, except for Ulugbek himself and his teacher Kazy-zade Rumi, whom his contemporaries called "Plato of his era."

Unfortunately, Ulugbek, a great scientist and educator, mathematician and astronomer, could not notice in time the danger posed by the dearest person himself: on October 25, 1449, Ulugbek was killed by order of his son Abdulatif. Ulugbek's body was thrown on the threshold of his modest dwelling within the walls of the madrasah. But justice prevailed: in five and a half months, Abdulatif himself would be executed, and “paricide” would be written on his grave.

("The lion's abode") was named so because of the symbol of power depicted on the portal in Samarkand - leopards with the sun on its back and a large swastika, in which "God Almighty!" is inscribed in a special Arabic script.

This madrasah was built in Samarkand on the Registan Square in the first half of the 17th century. The building, whose architect was the architect Abdul Jabbar, was under construction for almost 17 years (1619-1636). The Sherdor Madrasah repeats the Ulugbek Madrasah, but with distorted proportions. Most likely, it was the disproportionately large size of the dome that caused the building to collapse within a few decades after construction.

All the walls of the madrasah are covered with quotes from Koran. Exterior and courtyard facades are decorated with great imagination: the splendor of precious mosaics, ribbed turquoise domes and glazed brick cladding attract many tourists to the walls of the madrasah. Many curly flowers, forming a complex openwork ornamental pattern, adorn the mosaic panel of courtyard arches. At the same time, the interior of hujr-cells, in contrast to the external decoration, is strict and ascetic. The room with smooth white walls was divided into three parts: a study room, a small pantry and a separate place to sleep.

At the beginning of the 20th century, large repair and restoration work began in the madrasah and archaeological research: hujras were repaired, the collapsed part of the brick vault of the portal arch was restored, the carved mosaic of the tympanum was strengthened, the deformed vault of the main portal was dismantled and re-laid. All work was carried out in compliance with the ancient traditions of Uzbek folk craftsmen, according to which the disassembly and laying of the vault was carried out without circling. The masonry was completed in 1925. Later, the domes and vaults of the hujras were rebuilt, and the wings of the facades of the madrasah were revetted. In 1960-1962, two minarets 31 meters high of the main facade of the madrasah and a carved mosaic of a large tympanum were restored.

(“Decorated with gold”) began to be built in 1646 on the site of the Mirzoi caravanserai, which had remained since the time of Ulugbek. According to the plan of Yalangtush biy Bakhodur, this madrasah was supposed to close the ensemble on Registan Square from the north side with its main facade, and the building itself was supposed to accommodate mosque so that students could pray without leaving the madrasah. Particularly impressive in the madrasah is the wall painting and rich gilding of the inner walls of the main premises of the mosque.

The main façade consists of a central portal, frontal wings with two tiers of hujras, arched niches-loggias facing the square and corner towers - guldasta. The courtyard with four iwans along the perimeter is surrounded by two-storey cells. The rest of the walls and vault were completely covered with paintings. kundal"with abundant gilding. The mihrab (prayer niche in the wall facing Mecca) and the 11-step minbar (elevation for the preacher - imam) were gilded. Abundance gilding in decoration and determined the name of the madrasah - Tillya-Kari. The courtyard and exterior facades are lined with mosaics and majolica with various patterns - geometric, floral and epigraphic. Solid wooden doors are decorated with fine ornaments.

At the beginning of the 19th century, a strong earthquake destroyed the already tilted main portal in Tillya-Kari. Later, its upper part was then rebuilt, but it no longer had tiled cladding. Restoration work in Tillya-Kari began in the 1920s: Uzbek ceramists strengthened the remaining old tiles and made new ones. In the early 1930s, the side parts of the front facade of the madrasah were covered with locally produced tiles. The restoration of Tillya-Kari continued in 1950-1956: then the facing of the courtyard facades and the large drum of the mosque were restored, the south-western corner of the madrasah and the southern gallery of the mosque were reinforced with metal "bundles". In 1958, the portal was reconstructed with the outer facing of the eastern wall inside the courtyard.

Nearby buildings.
Mausoleum of the Sheibanids is located to the east of the Tilla-Kari madrasah and represents a large number of tombstones, the oldest of which dates back to the 16th century. It was by the time when the power of the Sheibanid dynasty was established, and Bukhara again became the capital of one of the strongest states of Central Asia. The founder of the dynasty is Muhammad Sheibani, the grandson of Abul Khair. In 1500, Muhammad Sheibani, with the support of the Chagatai Khanate, Tashkent rulers, conquered Samarkand and Bukhara, overthrowing the last rulers of the Timurid dynasty who ruled there. In 1503, Sheibani opposed his benefactors and captured Tashkent, after that, in 1506, Khiva fell, and in 1507, Merv (Turkmenistan), eastern Persia and western Afghanistan. Over the following years, nomadic Uzbeks under the leadership of Muhammad Sheibani firmly settled in the oases of Central Asia.

Chorsu Trade Dome- a vivid confirmation that the Registan was the center of trade in medieval Samarkand - is located on the back side of the Sherdor madrasah. The six-sided domed building that has survived to this day was built in the 15th century and rebuilt at the beginning of the 18th century. In 2005, the trading dome was restored, while in order to restore the true height of the building, a three-meter layer of soil was removed. Now in the dome of Chorsu is fine art gallery, where the works of Uzbek artists and sculptors are exhibited.

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Registan Square in Samarkand

The original name of Samarkand sounds like Simeskint, that is, "a large, rich village." Such a name was fully justified in those distant years, when the great conqueror Timur decided to make the "village" the capital of his state, which was larger than the Roman Empire. An unknown chronicler wrote about Samarkand: “Timur wanted to glorify this city so much that no matter what countries he conquered or conquered, he brought people from everywhere to inhabit the city and the surrounding land. From Damascus he brought all the craftsmen he could find: those who weave various silk fabrics, those who make bows for shooting and various weapons, those who work glass and clay, which he has the best in the whole world. From Turkey he brought the artisans he could find: masons, goldsmiths, as many of them were found. In addition, he brought engineers and bombardiers and those who make ropes for military vehicles. They sowed hemp and flax, which until now did not exist on this earth. How many people from all lands he gathered in this city - both men and women - that in total, they say, there were more than one and a half thousand people.

Building his city, the "ruler of Asia" followed in the footsteps of the ancient Arabs, who in the 7th-8th centuries. settled in these places, bringing with them the religion of Islam. Subsequently, many cities, including Samarkand, were completely wiped off the face of the earth by the hordes of Genghis Khan, and they began to revive only at the end of the 14th century, after the victorious battles of Timur. He not only defeated the Golden Horde and opened trade routes to the west. The great warrior utterly defeated the formidable Turkish Sultan Bayazet, conquered part of the Caucasus, Mesopotamia and Syria. In Russia, Timur reached Yelets, and in India he destroyed the ancient city of Delhi. Having become the richest ruler of the East, Timur decided to glorify his name in architectural monuments, for which the ancient city was chosen, whose glory was henceforth to be associated with the name of the conqueror of the Asian continent. The foundation was laid by the construction of the world's largest mosque, Bibi-Khanym, which can rightly be called a "symphony in stone."

Those parts of the building that are perceived only from a distance are covered with large geometric patterns - blue, turquoise, white with black and green bricks interspersed in them. In places designed for closer viewing, tiled mosaics with small colored ornaments predominate.

Samarkand craftsmen were able to make bricks so soft that they could be easily cut with a knife. According to a pre-compiled drawing, the craftsmen cut out hundreds of thousands of small colored pieces and laid out a patterned panel with them, like a carpet, covering the Bibi-Khanym mosque.

The entire central part of the mosque, designed for ten thousand worshipers, is occupied by a huge rectangular courtyard. A giant lancet portal leads into it, as if guarded on the sides by two towers. These are the minarets, from where the muezzins, singing prayers, call the faithful to the mosque.

The colossal portal is much higher than the main building - a feature characteristic of Central Asian architecture. The more significant the building, the larger and richer its portal.

The main building of the mosque and its pride are the arch of its second portal and the dome standing on it, covered with a tiled dress, forty-one meters high. It is so large that even the entrance to the Egyptian temple next to it may seem miniature. And the whole building overwhelms with its grandiosity, the emphasized contrast of huge portals and light galleries, the immense masses of its individual volumes and the gigantic scale of the planes covered with mosaics.

Here it must be said that ceramic products - mosaics poured with colored glaze and tiled relief or smooth tiles - were used in abundance for decorating facades and internal surfaces of walls, as well as covering several domes of mosques and mausoleums pointed at the top. The predominant color of glazed tiles was blue-blue. Against this general blue background, white, green and yellow details of the so-called arabesque ornament (vegetative and geometrized ornamental motifs) stood out. The ligature of the Kufic, ancient Arabic script was introduced into this ornament.

The construction started by Timur was continued by his grandson, Ulugbek, who was popularly called the "Comforter of mankind". Emir Ulugbek became famous not only as the successor of his famous grandfather, but also as an outstanding scientist, builder of the greatest observatory of his time. For the new mosque, he chose a place on the vast Registan square, which means "sandy field". This building is not just a mosque, but at the same time a madrasah - an educational institution and a hostel for students studying the Koran.

At that time, theology was the main subject in the madrasah. But Ulugbek wanted the students to master the exact sciences, so the emir himself gave lectures on mathematics and astronomy here.

The rectangular courtyard of the Ulugbek madrasah is surrounded by two-storey arched galleries, in which the columns were replaced by brick pillars. Behind each lancet arch there is a "hujra" - a room where students live. Each gallery is interrupted by a deep niche that serves as an auditorium on hot summer days.

Another madrasah is called Shir-Dor. This is a square building with two thin minarets lined with blue glazed brick on the sides of the main facade. In the center is a huge arched portal, also dressed in blue tiles. To the left and right of it from the side of the courtyard are the folded domes of the chapels. We go inside. Around - two-story galleries, opened towards the courtyard through lancet arches. Everywhere - in the piers of the arches, on the details of the main prayer room - the remains of beautiful sky-blue ornamented tiles. Where there is no cladding, a specific sandy-grayish brick is visible, the color of which is generally very typical for Central Asian construction, where bricks are made from loess clay.

Not far away on the same Registan square is the family crypt of Timur and the Timurids. In 1404, when Timur's beloved grandson and heir Mukhamed-Sultan died, the elderly ruler ordered the construction of a magnificent mausoleum. The name "Gur-Emir", which means "tomb of the Emir", was given to the tomb a year later, when Timur himself was buried in it next to his grandson under a black jade monolith.

Gur-Emir is an octagonal base with a large ribbed dome, raised on a high cylinder, called a "drum".

The walls of the mausoleum are covered with a geometric pattern of alternating gray-yellow bricks and tiles, glazed with blue, blue and white glaze. The drum, completely lined with tiles, is decorated with a ligature of giant letters. The letters form words that glorify Allah and his prophet, Mohammed.

Rising above the flat roofs of houses, the dome of Gur-Emir seems like a huge turquoise hat. The surface of this cap is not smooth like European domes. White, blue and blue tiles are carpeted with thick semicircular bundles, as if descending from the top of the dome down to the drum.

The interior of the mausoleum impresses with its magnificence. The walls are finished with translucent, milky-greenish onyx, above the strip of onyx there is a cornice carved from white marble painted with gold, and above it is a wide marble band completely covered with sayings from the Koran.

Four deep niches on the sides of the mausoleum were used for windows. Light pours in through the ligature of the double lattice. Its outer part is made of white alabaster, and the inner part is made of pieces of the precious plane tree. However, the most impressive is the carved door with ivory, mother-of-pearl and silver inlays.

In general, there is so much variety in the decorative tiled ornamentation of the Gur-Emir mausoleum (marble, onyx, mosaic glazed panels, carved plaster, gilded papier-mâché) that the motifs presented here could make up a whole encyclopedia of the decorative art of Central Asia.

For several centuries since the reign of Timur, a whole street of religious buildings called Shah-i-Zinda, which means "The Living King", has grown on the main square of Samarkand. Such a cult existed long before the emergence of Islam, but the preachers of the new religion managed to turn this cult to themselves and the believers for the good. This is how the legend was created about the relative of the prophet Mohammed Kusama-ibn-Abbas, a warrior who became a saint and went to heaven thanks to tireless prayers. From ancient times, his burial was revered in Samarkand, and subsequent rulers and clergymen believed that if they were buried next to the grave of a saint, it would bring peace and rest in the next world.

In total, there are twenty-five mausoleums in Samarkand, including the tomb of Kusam. The Arab traveler and geographer Ibn Batuta wrote about her: “The grave is blessed, a quadrangular building with a dome was erected over it, at each corner there are two marble columns. Marble green, black, white and red. The walls are also made of multi-colored marble with gold ornaments. The roof is made of lead."

Notable in Shah-i-Zinda and arabesque calligraphic inscriptions. Most of them are of a religious nature, but there is also information about the history of Samarkand, and even the names of architects who built the necropolis in different eras are mentioned. These are Shamsiddin, Badriddin, Ali Saifi, Fakhralli and others.

To today's tourist, these names probably won't say much. But the fruits of their creations are visible from everywhere. Moreover, the Registan ensemble makes the strongest impression in the evening, if you look at it, standing near the Charsu market after sunset. Then the purple bulks of portals, domes and minarets create a fabulous silhouette against the darkening sky. And at night, the mosaic decoration of the buildings, illuminated by the shimmering moonlight and spotlights, shimmers with the brilliance of precious gems. Perhaps, such a picturesque picture is the best reminder of the skill and talent of the great Samarkand architects.

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The word "registan" is formed from the merger of two Uzbek words: "reg" - "sand" and "stan" - "place, location". That is, in literal translation, "registan" means "a place covered with sand." This term was used to refer to the central squares of many large settlements in Asia and the Middle East.

Of great interest is the mythology associated with the origin of the area. Legends say that in ancient times the central squares of cities served as a place for the public execution of convicts, as well as military captives. And the place of execution was constantly sprinkled with sand to hide the blood of the victims flowing to the ground.

The ensemble of three madrasahs located on Registan Square in Samarkand (Uzbekistan) is one of the most striking and expressive examples of Persian architecture, which has many unique features. The high artistic value of the ensemble allows it to be confidently attributed to the pearls of world architecture. It is included in the UNESCO World Art Heritage List.

The structure of the registan in Samarkand.

The Registan Square in Samarkand is of great historical value due to the architectural monuments of the 15th-17th centuries. The whole ensemble, consisting of three madrasahs, is located on the territory of the square. It includes the following objects:

Ulugbek Madrasah (built in 1417-1420);
Sherdor Madrasah (built in 1619-1636);
madrasah Tillya-Kari (1646-1660);
mausoleum of Sheibanids;
Chorsu market.

At the beginning of the 15th century, the ensemble of the central square of Samarkand - the Registan - was compiled. During the reign of Timur, a madrasah was built on the square - a Muslim school, as well as the building of a caravan - a shed, a mosque and a khanaka (dervish monastery). These structures surrounded the square from all four sides.

Later, two centuries later, the architectural ensemble of the square underwent replanning and some changes. Abul-Jabbar erects the Sherdor Madrasah (1635-1636 years of construction) on the site of the khanaka, and instead of the caravan-saray, the Tillya-Kari Madrasah (1646-1660 years of construction).

The buildings located on the south side of the square were dismantled, as a result of which a passage to the south was opened. Later, in the 18th century, next to the square, outside the walls of the Sherdor madrasah, the Chorsu market was built with a dome, which is a building in the form of a dodecahedron (although some experts tend to interpret the shape of the building as a hexagon).

On three sides, the square is surrounded by mighty portals of three madrasahs, and high minarets are located nearby in solemn harmony. buildings are distinguished by luxurious exterior finishes. The walls of the buildings are covered with glazed ceramic tiles that form intricate mosaic patterns. It seems that carpets with bright oriental patterns hang on the walls of the buildings.

The mighty outlines of the buildings, the smooth, sparkling outlines of the walls decorated with mosaics create a fabulously beautiful and indescribable spectacle. To the left of the square is the building of Ulugbek's madrasah. The building consists of a majestic portal, decorated with a pointed arch on top and two minarets standing side by side.

The walls of the buildings are generously decorated with floral and floral ornaments. In addition to glazed ceramic tiles, natural marble inserts are used in mosaic patterns and inlays. The facade of the building is decorated with a star-shaped ornament, which is a symbol of the starry sky.

The top of the mosque is crowned with a dome in the form of a helmet - the most characteristic feature of Persian architecture. The walls are decorated with oriental ornaments and inscriptions. Opposite the Ulugbek madrasah, the Sherdor madrasah is harmoniously located, which is almost a complete analogue of the building. Together they create a semblance of a mirror image of each other.

The final construction of the registan is the Tillya-Kari madrasah, which was built later than all. The left side of Till-Kari is occupied by a cathedral mosque with an elongated hall of columns covered with a dome. Among the other domes of the ensemble, the largest can be called the dome of the mosque. Features of the decorative finish of the Tillya-Kari madrasah are the use of a special type of painting - kundal, which became the reason for the name of the mosque - Gilded.

Madrasah of Ulugbek.

The oldest building on the central square of the Registan of Samarkand is Ulugbek Madrasah. Its construction dates back to 1417-1420. The initiator of the construction was the then ruler of the Timurid state - Ulugbek. A little later, an observatory was erected, which is a significant breakthrough in the science of that time.

The madrasah was located in the western part of the Registan, and a khanaka, a monastery for dervishes, was built opposite it. On the north side, a caravan was erected - a barn - a place for travelers and merchants to rest, transporting goods with the help of camel caravans.

In the 15th century Ulugbek's madrasah served as an educational institution and was one of the best in the East. It was considered one of the centers of education, and prominent scientists of their time worked there.

Madrasah Sherdor.

At the beginning of the 17th century, the Sherdor madrasah was built on the site of the khanaka. By that time, the dervish monastery had already lost its appearance and lost its former significance. At the same time, the construction of another madrasah, Tilla-Kari, began. The architecture of the building is the creation of the hands of the architect Abdul-Jabar, and the decorative design of the building was carried out by Muhammad Abbas.

According to its exterior, Sherdor almost completely repeats the appearance of the Ulugbek madrasah standing in front of the building. At the same time, the proportions of the building are slightly changed, because the architect saw the building from this point of view.

On the walls of the Sherdor Madrasah, quotes from the Holy Book - the Koran are written, and on the portal located at the entrance there is an image of the coat of arms of Samarkand - a leopard, which carries the sun on its back.

Chorsu market.

On the reverse side of the Sherdor madrasah, a domed pavilion was built - the Chorsu market. This suggests that for Samarkand the area was also of great commercial importance. The original construction of the building was carried out in the XV century, but after 300 years its architectural appearance has undergone changes.

At the beginning of the 21st century, restoration work was carried out on Registan Square in Samarkand. Around the domed Chorsu building, soil was removed about three meters thick, which partially hid the height of the building. At the moment, the Gallery of Fine Arts of Uzbekistan is located in the former Chorsu trade pavilion.

Mausoleum of the Sheibanids.

In the eastern part of the square, not far from the Tilla-Kari madrasah, there is the Sheibanid mausoleum, which is a collection of ancient stone tombstones erected there many centuries ago. The oldest tombstone dates back to the 16th century.

These commemorative plates were built in honor of the rulers, prominent scientists and artists, as well as noble citizens. Until now, the mausoleum is of interest as a historical monument.

Registan is a common name for all the main squares of Central Asian cities, but it has a special meaning. It's all about the architectural complex, which consists of three magnificent madrasahs - skillful decoration, unique architecture and ancient history made them one of the most famous.

The first, bearing the name of Ulugbek (full name Mohammed Taragay), began to be built on the main square of Samarkand at the beginning of the 15th century (1417) by order of the then ruler of the city.

The grandson of Tamerlane showed himself to be a talented manager and gained fame as the patron of sciences and arts, which is known to this day. The erection of the most beautiful building of the theological seminary only contributed to the growth of the glory of Samarkand, which finally secured the status of one of the richest cities on the Silk Road.

The Ulugbek Madrasah was alone in the Registan for more than 2 centuries - until the moment when the next ruler of Samarkand, Bahodur Yalangtush, ordered to supplement the architectural ensemble of the square with two more seminaries. Located according to a strict geometric scheme, the Sherdor, Tillya-Kari and Ulugbek madrasahs made up the very famous architectural ensemble, which today has become the center of attraction for all guests of Samarkand.

From the 16th to the 18th centuries, Registan, like the whole of Samarkand, fell into decay - the capital was moved to Bukhara, and the city was no longer included in the route of caravans traveling along the Great Silk Road. According to the chronicles, the desolation was so great that wild animals settled in the abandoned madrasas.

The restoration of the Registan and its unique architectural ensemble began only in the first quarter of the 20th century, and ended by the mid-60s. Since then, of the large-scale works, only the replacement of the pavement has been carried out, and today Registan Square is elegant and clean and looks extremely picturesque.

architectural features

The Registan complex is a typical example of Persian architecture with a lot of traditional Islamic motifs. Ulugbek Madrasah is located in the west of the Registan Square, Sherdor - in the east, and Tilla-Kari - in the north. Moreover, each of the structures has unique characteristics and features.

Madrasah of Ulugbek. Four impressive domes and a high lancet arch with skillful majolica white and blue mosaics are the oldest center of sciences, which was considered one of the main ones in all of Central Asia.
Sherdor. The seminary, built right opposite, almost completely repeats the architecture of the Ulugbek madrasah. Nevertheless, significant differences in decoration, ornamentation and stone carving make it a unique architectural object.
Tilla Curry. In translation, the name means “trimmed with gold” - in full accordance with it, the finish impresses with richness and sophistication. The architectural solution is distinguished by orderliness: the central portal and two-tiered wings are harmoniously combined in a single ensemble.

What to see on Registan Square

If you have enough time, it is worth getting acquainted with each of the buildings separately, not only from the outside, but also from the inside, in order to appreciate the skillful and varied finishes, unique concepts and layouts of the premises.

It is famous for its carved mosaics and marble, glazed ceramic tiles and interesting interior layout solutions. Be sure to get acquainted with the main hall and the minarets - you can climb the latter and view the surroundings from a height of 30 m. In the courtyard you can buy souvenirs, and at the same time look at the lecture rooms where Ulugbek himself taught, who, in addition to the title of the ruler of the city, had excellent abilities in mathematics and astronomy. Also on the right side of the building is an observatory and a museum with an exposition dedicated to Ulugbek's teaching practice.

A distinctive feature of this theological seminary is the rich gilding in the kungal style, interspersed with sky-blue ceramics. Walk into the main hall, raise your head up - we guarantee that you will freeze in amazement. It immediately becomes clear why Tillya-Kari is considered one of the most beautiful sights not only in Samarkand, but in the whole of Uzbekistan. In the remaining time, you can stroll around the courtyard and buy souvenirs.

Turquoise and skillful mosaics, glazed brick decoration and hundreds of quotes from the Koran carved on the walls - everything here speaks of the painstaking and insanely complex work done by more than a dozen masters of their craft. Fortunately, there is no ban on video and photography, so you can and should take as many memorable pictures as possible.

In addition to getting acquainted with the interior decoration of the madrasah, there is also the opportunity to have fun - photographers work in the courtyard, offering the equipment of medieval knights as props. Atmospheric photo for memory is guaranteed!

"According to legend, when it was laid Samarkand, a leopard - palyang descended from the Zeravshan mountains. He wandered around the walls, approved the buildings, and retired back to the mountains.

Since then, the inhabitants of Samarkand began to call themselves leopards. A leopard was depicted on their standards and coats of arms.

Samarkand people are proud and wayward, they do not tolerate lies and do not strive for wealth, their soul lies only in glory and honors. The sages say that it is the land of Samarkand that has such an effect, and Samarkand people, no matter what country they come to, are different from other people. Their soul is open to the beautiful, among them there are many great masters in creating miracles that adorn the world."

Abu Sand Abdu Rahman Ibn Muhammad Idris

Still by myself Amir Timur“... from Damascus he brought here various masters that he could find. Those who weave various silk fabrics, or make bows for shooting and various weapons, or work glass and clay, which they have the best in all the world. From Turkey, he brought archers and artisans, masons and goldsmiths, as many of them were found. In addition, he brought engineers, scorers and those who make ropes for cars ... ”(Abdullaev V.A., "History of Samarkand")

The story of Samarkand is a great temptation if you like to travel and read something from history. But it is impossible to grasp the immensity, and it is hardly possible to talk about Samarkand in a nutshell. I'm afraid that I'll wind up for a long time;) I'll try to limit myself to the peak of the architectural creativity of the East - the Registan ensemble and the "Golden Age" of the city of leopards - the period of the highest rise of Samarkand, when in beauty and grandeur, as Amir Timur intended, he became equal to the most powerful capitals of the world. Well, with my photos taken there in August 2008...

Now Registan- this is such a huge square, paved with burnt bricks and cobblestones, on which there are three medieval educational institutions (madrasahs).

"Registan" is translated as "sandy place". It is said that the name comes from the fact that the ground here was strewn with sand to absorb the blood of the victims of public executions, which were practiced here until the beginning of the 20th century. They also say that the Registan was the place where Tamerlane (aka Timur) exhibited the heads of his victims, which were impaled on pins, and the square where the people gathered to listen to state decrees, before reading which they loudly blew copper pipes.

During the time of Timur, there was not a single masterpiece building on this square. The ensemble was erected for almost 250 years, but after the death of this cruel and far-sighted ruler.

Samarkand was not limited to a "sandy place" with severed heads on pins. The Gur-Emir and Bibi-Khanym palaces, a number of Shokhi-Zinda mausoleums, which have survived to this day and traditionally amaze guests of the city with their beauty and grandeur, are built by the hands of local craftsmen and those brought by Timur. Samarkand in the time of Tamerlane is buried in 12 gardens surrounding it, and the surroundings are condescendingly built up with villages with the names of world capitals such as Misr (Cairo), Dimishk (Damascus), Baghdad, Sultania, Farish (Paris), etc.

4 years after the death of Amir Timur, his grandson, 15 years old, will begin to rule the country Mirzo Ulugbek, who later became a great scientist, whose 40-year reign will be held under the motto “The pursuit of knowledge is the duty of every Muslim.” It is to Ulugbek that Samarkand owes its place of honor in world history.

The observatory created by Ulugbek had no equal either then or many years later; thanks to the observations in it, the so-called. “Gurgan” tables of natural values of sines and tangents of standing angles of stars, correct up to the ninth decimal place, as well as a catalog of geographical coordinates of a huge number of different settlements (and not so) on Earth, relevant at that time. Together with Ulugbek, his student and colleague Ali Kushchi is working, who also contributed to the development of mathematics, having calculated, for example, the value of the number "Pi" with an accuracy that will be surpassed only after 250 years. Let me remind you that the first half of the 15th century dragged on slowly.. .

But the main architectural and historical brainchild of Mirzo Ulugbek is his University on Registan Square. Now in the guidebooks it is called " Ulugbek University"

The very first Madrasah on Registan Square was built in 1417-1420. The architect of this building is not known for certain. But the Herat poet and historian Zainutdin Vasifi, a contemporary of Ulugbek, reported that he was Kamaleddin Muhandis, a student of the famous mathematician Kazy-zade Rumi. However, history has not preserved any more mention of this person.

The Ulugbek Madrasah, like any other educational institution of the Muslim East (sometimes modern), is a closed rectangular courtyard, the back side of which is occupied by a mosque-audience. A grandiose portal opens onto the square. Three more of the same portal, but smaller, were located on the other three sides of the building. Portals are the most remarkable elements of the building. They have a purely decorative function, their meaning only in the impression! And there is something to be impressed ...

While I, 590 years after the construction of the Madrasah, stood mesmerized by the bewitching patterns of the portal, a policeman appeared from nowhere and conspiratorially sang:

Mister! Du yu wont tu go tu deap of the minaret?

To the very top?

Oh Russian? Yeah... brother! 5 thousand come on and go!

Such an opportunity was not to be missed! but...

What are you! Take 5 thousand from the Americans, and not from your brother from fraternal Ukraine, brother ...

Give me three thousand, right?

Two and a half?

Well! Get out with the foreigners...

The officer of law and order was clearly engaged in illegal activities - he had to go through the interior of Ulugbek's madrasah, which was not equipped for tourists, where some restoration work is clearly going on ...

On the faces of my fellow travelers - an American uncle of about 50 years old and a student from the Czech Republic with a book "1000 places to see before you die"was the horror of the entire Western civilization before the friendly, but smelling very dusty Eastern gouging ...

At the beginning of the ascent, in fact, on the minaret itself, the American bang his head on a low protruding beam not stated in the guidebooks and dropped out of our international team ...

And in vain! How can you refuse to walk on such a ladder?

And look out into such a medieval window?

There was no place for two at the very top, so I let the Czech go ahead ...

And he himself considered such artifacts;) Navigator Aliseev (Alisson?), for example, visited here on October 2, 1909, I wonder how much he paid the imperial cops of those years?

Samarkand from above is good! View of Tillya-Kori Medressa...

View of the Sher-Dor Madrasah and the performance area (during the time of Timur, it was also a platform for executions;)))

At the top of one of the minarets of the Ulugbek Madrassah, you seem to stick out almost to your full height from a tin cover, there is nothing special to hold on to - scary, but how romantic!!! ;)

Aziza + Dalmir = ... but not love = "Happiness"

A small park near the Madrasah...

The dome of the mosque in the Tilla-Kori madrasah...

There was still a difficult descent ahead - I had to somehow squeeze into this window a little earlier in order to miss the Czech adventurer. Then, apparently, I stuck out of the minaret for quite a long time, and she went downstairs and dissolved in the bright Samarkand noon...

In such places it seems that even the darkness in the old windows of historical significance, medieval, full of secrets and conspiracies...

From there, from the top, I just looked at the gullible and bright modern Samarkand...

But is it really possible to leave the most famous building of the Registan without trying to touch at least some of its secrets?

Inside the Ulugbek Madrasah there is a yard around which there are two tiers of arches open to the outside, behind them there were fifty hujra-cells, in which more than a hundred students who once studied in this institution lived...

According to legend, here, in addition to a whole galaxy of scientists (Kazy-zade Rumi, Maulana Kashani, Maulana Kushchi) who read their lectures on mathematics, geometry, logic, natural sciences, astronomy (including astrology), codes of doctrine about man and the world soul, theology. .. taught to distract himself from administrative duties, and Ulugbek himself...

The ruler chose a simple but very educated man as the rector of the institution - Maulana Muhammad Khavfi. On the opening day of the madrasah, Khavfi gave a lecture in the presence of 90 scholars, but got carried away so that no one could understand his complex and ornate train of thought. Except for Ulugbek himself and the mathematician Kazy-zade Rumi (his teacher) ;-)))) The other 90 people probably applauded restrainedly and puzzled...

This medresse keeps and the secret of Ulugbek's death. Unfortunately, the great scientist-educator, mathematician and astronomer, was a poor specialist in family and political intrigues and did not notice in time the danger posed by the closest person: on October 25, 1449, Ulugbek was killed, most likely on the orders of his son Abdulatif. Ulugbek's body was scornfully thrown on the threshold of his modest dwelling - a cell within the walls of the Madrasah, one of these in the photo ... In 5 and a half months, the insidious Abdulatif will be executed, and “paricide” will be written on his grave. He went down in history in his own way, asshole ...

But let's get out of the darkness of intrigue and betrayal of the XV century again on the square to another architectural masterpiece of Samarkand - Sher-Dor Madrasah...

Over the next two centuries, caravan routes through Samarkand lose their significance. The decline of trade and handicraft production leads to stagnation in economic life. Samarkand is part of the Bukhara Khanate as a special lot. But at this time, the Samarkand emir and philosopher Bakhodur Yalangtush he is building at his own expense ... not a super-cottage in the local Mezhyhirya, but two more universities on Registan Square. This completes the creation of the ensemble of the central square, as we see it today...

Sher-Dor Madrasah("The lion's abode") was built 200 years after Ulugbek University appeared on it. It was built on the spot where, under Ulugbek, there was a khanaka (shelter) for Sufis. The building was under construction for almost 17 years (1619-1636). Its author was the architect Abdul Jabbar.

The Sher-Dor Madrasah almost mirrors the first building of the ensemble - the Ulugbek Madrasah, but in distorted proportions. All the walls are covered mostly with quotations from the Koran. Exterior and courtyard facades are decorated with great imagination. But these very unusual lions / tigers / leopards are even depicted on a bill of 200 soums (0.1 $) of modern Uzbekistan!

The madrasah is lined with special glazed bricks, mosaic sets and paintings created only for it. There are many curly flowers in the mosaic, buds forming a complex ornamental pattern. The motif of such images is usually a symbolic "tree of life", often used in oriental painting and architecture.

Third Madrasah - Tillya-Kori was built in 1646-1660. on the site of the caravanserai (hotels for merchants) left from the time of Ulugbek

According to the plan of Yalangtush biy Bakhodur, a patron of the construction, the Madrasah was supposed to close the Registan Square with its facade, and the building itself should also house a mosque so that students could pray without leaving the university.

There are a lot of souvenir shops and crowds of tourists from all over the world in the Tillya-Kori courtyard...

Cute Uzbek souvenirs are sold in cells where students of the 17th-18th centuries once lived...

The mosque in the Tilla-Kori Madrasah was also the central mosque of the city, now it is a museum and you can easily go in to look at the interior...

The abundance of gold in the decoration of the mosque determined the name of the Madrasah. "Tillya-Kori" - translated as "Gilded"

The surface of all the walls and the vault in the mosque were completely covered with traditional kundal painting with rich gilding. The mihrab (direction to Mecca) and the eleven-step minbar (elevation for the preacher - imam) were gilded...

It is impossible to take your eyes off the inner arch - you just get into some kind of stream of optical golden bacchanalia ..

But even the "Golden Age" can hardly last more than a hundred years;)

Since the end of the 17th century, a new period of stagnation and decline has been outlined in the life of Samarkand. The capital was moved to Bukhara. The Great Silk Road passed by, the madrasahs stood empty and forgotten, and only wild animals lived within their walls. The population of the city barely numbered a thousand families...

There was a time when in the city, according to eyewitnesses " ... there were no men or women left, no one except the qalandar monk Shoh Dzhuguz. Blessed mosques, sacred madrasahs, charitable institutions are being destroyed..."- somehow immediately such respect for this steadfast monk appears ...

A turning point for the better occurred only at the end of the seventies of the XVIII century. In Samarkand, by the political will of one of the emirs, residents from neighboring cities and villages were resettled.

The city began to revive, life began to boil in the Registan, where numerous small shops and buildings were again located. Immediately, the maddakhs (narrators), in a loud voice and gestures full of tragedy, told the crowd about the exploits of the saints and the heroism of the illustrious warriors of bygone days, however, they also promoted the authorities and sang the revival of the city.

In 1875, already under the rule of the Russian Empire, the square was put in order - a three-meter layer of earth was removed, which had formed over the centuries and concealed the height of buildings, the surface of the earth was leveled and paved. Registan, as before, became the center of the city. True, restoration work was limited to this, universities were in disrepair, domes and minarets could collapse at any moment right on the heads of selfless students ...

In 1918, after the establishment of Soviet power, the activity of the Madrassah, as theological schools, was terminated. A year later, for some reason, the shops were demolished.

However, what is interesting under the Soviets, the architectural monument was not completely gouged, but on the contrary, the country spent an impressive amount of effort and money to restore the Registan Square: all three madrasas were raised from the ruins and recreated almost in their original form.

Unexpectedly for myself, I read the book of the academician with great pleasure M.E. Masson's "Falling Minaret" about stopping the destruction and restoring one of the minarets of the Ulugbek Medresse in the 20s - early 30s (unfortunately not the one that I climbed with a backpacker from the Czech Republic). An exciting book about dedication despite the great difficulties of those years, great love for history and this amazing city...

Restoration work, begun in the 1920s, was completed almost before the collapse of the Soviet Union.

I don’t know how the Registan was presented in the fashionable guidebook "1000 places to see before you die", however, I am sure that without seeing this outstanding architectural masterpiece, there is nothing to think about a better life in heaven ... Surely, there, in heaven, there is only talk , what about the sea ... yes about the Registan Square! ;)))

Fantastic, magical place! There are few other places where you can feel so clearly a part of history - this incredible space machine, and, perhaps, an accidental wanderer, nailed to the caravan of time that goes through the sand of centuries from eternity to eternity...

Perhaps for the sake of such sensations we live ...

Good luck with your travels!

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