We install stainless steel chimneys. Stainless steel chimneys: types and installation principles. Possible errors and their elimination

The installation of any heating device or structure operating on solid, liquid or gaseous fuels, a stove, a fireplace or a boiler, will require the mandatory installation of a system for removing waste products of combustion. Not so long ago, there was no particular alternative - you had to build a brick structure or resort to using asbestos-cement pipes which have far more disadvantages than advantages. At present, the situation has changed dramatically - a stainless steel chimney shows excellent versatility.

In skillful hands, a set of stainless steel parts turns into a universal tool, which makes it possible to mount a chimney system in the shortest possible time that fully meets all the requirements of current standards and safety requirements. In addition, the overall estimate for installing a chimney, even with the seeming high cost of components, will always be more attractive than other options. With the right approach and knowledge basic principles installation, assembly of such a system is quite a feasible task for any owner of the house.

First of all, a few words about what a stainless steel chimney assembly kit is.

There are three options:

• Components made of single-layer material, with a thickness of 0.6 to 2 mm, the so-called, mono systems. They are certainly cheaper, but their scope is significantly limited. They are used only inside the insulated room, since a large temperature difference between the outside and inside the pipe will lead to absolutely unnecessary excessive consumption of energy carriers, to the abundant formation of condensate in the cavity, will affect the overall performance and durability of the entire heating system. Their only advantage is that they are often used indoors as secondary heat sources - for example, tanks for heating water or outdoor liquid or air heat exchangers can be mounted on them.

• Corrugated stainless steel parts - they are used to create curved transitions, for example, from the heater itself to the rigid section of the chimney. However, they do not always differ in the required strength and heat resistance, and often inspectors of regulatory authorities simply refuse to approve projects using corrugations.
• The most versatile - components from the category sandwich tube, in which a layer of fireproof material with high performance is laid between the inner and outer stainless coating thermal insulation - usually, this is basalt mineral wool. Such elements can be safely used for both internal and external chimney laying.

The next question is the grade of stainless steel. The metallic gleam of all parts is almost the same, but the performance characteristics can vary significantly. Therefore, when choosing, be sure to pay attention to the labeling of products:

• Steel grade 430 - used for parts that are the least exposed to aggressive effects. As a rule, external casings are made from it - the surrounding humid atmosphere is not terrible for it.
• 409 steel - optimally suited for solid fuel appliances (for fireplaces, stoves).
• Steel 316 - enriched with inclusions of nickel and molybdenum. It elevates her thermal stability and resistance to chemical (acidic) attack. If you need a chimney for a gas boiler, then this will be the right choice.
• The steel grade 304 is largely the same as 316, but the content is alloyed shchih additives below. In principle, it can be a replacement for an analogue, with the advantage of a lower price.
• Stamps 316 i and 321 are the most versatile. The temperature limit of their operation is about 850ºC, and this is combined with high acid resistance and excellent ductility.
• Stainless steel 310S is the most "elite" material, which, along with all other positive qualities, is resistant to temperatures up to 1000ºC.

The range of manufactured stainless steel chimney parts is very diverse and is able to meet the needs of almost any designed system.

• Straight sections with a length of 330 to 1000 mm. All of them have a special socket interface that does not require any additional elements.
• Elbow (bend) 45º, used when it is necessary to change the direction of the chimney in vertical or inclined sections.
• Elbows 90º - usually used to go from a short horizontal section at the heater to the main part of the chimney.
• Tees at an angle of 45 or 87º - are installed at the installation site of the condensate collector or, if two devices are installed, when they are connected to a single chimney system (separate approval of the regulatory authorities is required).
• Revision elements of the chimney - designed for regular monitoring and cleaning of the system.
• Condensate collector - is installed in the lower part of the main vertical section and serves to regularly release the chimney from accumulated moisture.
• Elements of the upper part of the chimney - spark arrester, cap, waterproofing skirt.
• You can also purchase special elements for passing through a wall, floor or roof. If such parts are not provided by the supplier, they will need to be manufactured independently.

Preliminary calculation of the chimney system

When planning the installation of a stainless chimney, it is necessary to take into account several important criteria that are provided for by special fundamental documents of the technical supervision service:

1. The total height of the chimney cannot be less than 5 m - to ensure normal draft.

2. It is not allowed to install horizontal sections more than 1000 mm long.

3. In unheated rooms or in open space (on the street), it is prohibited to install elements that do not have their own thermal insulation.

4. Particular attention to the excess of the chimney cut above the roof:

• If the roof is flat - at least 500 mm.
• The same requirements, if the distance from the pipe to the ridge of the pitched roof is less than 150 cm.
• At a distance of 150 to 300 cm - the pipe should be at least flush with the height of the ridge.
• For large distances, the cut of the pipe should not be below the line 10º from the horizon of the height of the ridge.
• There are situations when other buildings are attached to the main building. In this case, the height of the pipes must be at least higher than their upper level.

5. If the chimney passes through a combustible roof, a spark arrester is a must.

6. The most critical areas are the passage through walls, floors, roofs, especially if they are made of combustible materials. If the pipe is uninsulated ( single-walled), then the distance between it and the ceiling must be at least 1000 mm. This, in fact, is not practiced, but even with a “sandwich” thickness of 50 mm, the minimum gap should be 200 mm.

7. Pipe joints in the thickness of walls or ceilings are not allowed. Minimum distance from the floor, ceiling, wall - 700 mm

8. When the chimney passes even through a non-combustible roof, the minimum gap between the pipe and the coating cannot be less than 130 mm.

9. Two basic rules must be taken into account:

• On a horizontal or inclined section from a heating device or furnace, pipes are mounted "in smoke", i.e. so that the combustion products move freely along the internal channel. In practice, this is - the pipes are put on the previous one from the boiler.
• On the vertical section of the chimney, the opposite is true - the installation is carried out “through condensate”, so that the resulting moisture “has no chance” to get into the insulation. Thus, each subsequent section of the pipe is inserted into the lower one.

10. The diameter of the pipe in none of its interfaces can be less than the standard outlet pipe of the heater.

11. The total number of turns of the chimney, regardless of their angle - no more than three.

The chimney may have an internal layout, with passage through the premises of the house. In this case, either thermally insulated sandwich pipes, or the chimney itself can be closed with brickwork.

AT recent times, with the wide distribution of two-layer insulated parts, its external placement has become a more popular scheme, with brackets attached to the outer wall,

The location of the chimney outside on the brackets ...

or with the installation of a special supporting structure made of a metal profile.

… or on a special supporting structure.

The advantages of such placement are obvious - there is no need to arrange complex thermally insulated passages through interfloor floors and roofs.

Installation of a stainless steel chimney

Actually, if the chimney layout is carefully thought out, the approval of the regulatory authorities has been obtained ( it is a prerequisite), all the necessary details of the future system are purchased, then installation is not particularly difficult. All elements are equipped with adapted mating areas, and connecting them one to another is a simple and intuitive task.

Pipe joints, especially inside a dwelling, should be additionally reinforced with a special sealant that can withstand temperatures up to 1000-1500º - it is easy to find in specialized stores selling chimney accessories. This will ensure that combustion products that are hazardous to health do not enter the premises and reduce draft in the system.

When mounting the chimney on an external wall on the brackets, the distance between them should be no more than 2 m. A bracket (support) is obligatory in the places where the pipe passes through the wall and where the condensate collector (revision compartment) is fastened.

If the installation is carried out indoors, then the main attention is paid to the places of passage through the floors. Some manufacturers of chimney systems include special elements for this purpose in their range. But, if there are none, it is easy to make them yourself.

In fact, this is a box with a central hole for the passage of a pipe of the appropriate diameter, and a wall length that provides the required distance of the chimney from the floor material. Very often it is also made of stainless steel.

It is fixed in the thickness of the ceiling, the free space in it is filled with non-combustible material (basalt wool or expanded clay). From above and below it can be closed with a decorative plate.

On the roof - a slightly different approach.

• Firstly, if it has a certain angle with the horizon, the hole for the pipe will not be round, but an elliptical or rectangular elongated shape.

Installation of a passage through the roof

• Thirdly, in addition to thermal insulation, it is necessary to provide waterproofing from above - so that precipitation or condensed moisture does not penetrate into the attic. Today it is easy to purchase special flexible elements that fit any roof profile.
• It would be useful to put on a “skirt” on the chimney, which will protect the joint with the roof from direct rain.

"Skirt" to protect the passage through the roof from the direct hit of rain jets

From above, the pipe is crowned with a head - an umbrella. In some cases, which have already been mentioned, it will be necessary to install a special element - a spark arrester.

Video. Master class for the installation of a stainless chimney

In fact, if the installation scheme is thought out to the smallest detail, agreed with the controlling organizations, then the installation itself turns into an easy “game of a children's designer”. Of course, you should not take everything so simply - the appropriate skills in reading drawings, locksmith work, the ability to use power tools, accuracy, consistency in work will be required to the fullest.

Chimneys - brick chimneys have existed since ancient times - from the appearance of the first stoves and fireplaces, lined with bricks. One of the disadvantages of these chimneys is the shape of their section - rectangular. The presence of corners impairs the flow of gases around the chimney from the combustion of firewood, which reduces traction. However, the main disadvantage of a brick chimney is its slow heating, which leads to condensation. The result is an acidic cocktail of water and soot that seeps into brick and joint joints, reducing strength and destroying the chimney.

Features of stainless steel chimneys

The appearance of stainless steel chimneys has greatly simplified the tasks of building and installing stoves and fireplaces, as well as their operation. Now you can buy chimney sections and assemble it with your own hands by connecting the parts in single structure, which is within the power of almost every homeowner. However, there are some features here, well known to professionals, and which you should pay attention to if you decide to assemble the chimney from separate sections on your own. Beforehand, it does not hurt to find and watch a video on how to do the installation of sections and correctly install the chimney from stainless steel.

Unfortunately, it is most likely impossible to make stainless steel chimney sections with your own hands. Their production includes a large number of special machines. Especially complicated installation and welding of seams on sections. It is also very difficult not in production conditions to make high-quality rolling around the circumference. Therefore, with your own hands, you can only qualitatively install the chimney, following the video instructions.

What is a sandwich: chimney assembly

Chimney assembly starts from the bottom. First, after the stove or fireplace, a section with a valve is installed, which allows you to completely block the chimney or create a thrust of a given force. Next, either a single section of one pipe is installed, or a pipe- sandwich - two-circuit chimney. A single pipe can add much more heat, but only if it does not damage the coatings on the ceiling and wall near the pipe, where superheated air will accumulate. To prevent overheating, a sandwich pipe is used. It is required at the intersection of storey floors and roofs. In this case, a pass-through oblique overlay is used - a flange fixed on the roof.

The stainless steel sandwich pipe includes several parts:

• Sleeve - the outer part, which is usually made of sheet thickness 0.5 mm. by the roller welding method, when the edges of the folded sheet overlap.
• Filling - a layer of thermal insulation, special mineral wool eg PAROC for filling sandwiches.
• The inner pipe of the chimney, coaxially located with respect to the sleeve, usually made of sheet with a thickness of 0.8 - 1 mm., by a special welding method with filling the seam with solder, when the edges of the folded sheet lie end-to-end, and the wide part of the pipe does not have a rolling around the circumference;
• Plugs installed at the ends of the sleeve and the inner tube, made of compressed packing. They center both pipes and hold the thermal insulation. In order to hide the packing from external influences, on the sleeve with a glass is put on each side.

Read also: Chimney installation features

Stainless steel pipes are the cheapest steel grade 430. In such steel there are no additives that significantly increase the cost of the material. Additives to varying degrees enhance the anti-corrosion properties of stainless steel, which can be useful against condensate that forms inside the pipe. However, the price of the pipe increases by about one and a half times. In addition to the material, the price of the pipe is affected by the status of the manufacturer in the world market. But no more expensive brands steel, nor big-name brands provide really tangible advantages for stainless steel chimneys. Products of domestic enterprises will also serve reliably and for a long time. Therefore, it makes sense to purchase chimneys from stainless steel of domestic production.

It should be noted that if the pipe is bent by hand, it is intended for:

• use as a sleeve;
• use in furnaces in which the fuel is gas.

For clarity and a better understanding of the sandwich device, it will be correct to find and watch the corresponding video. Watching the video will also help the installation of the sandwich and the installation of related accessories when crossing floors and roofs.

Proper chimney installation

Installation of a stainless steel chimney is necessary perform with gloves as the edges of the tubes are very sharp and can easily damage the skin. For connection it is recommended to use black oven sealant rated for 1500 degrees Celsius. It gives rigidity and strength to the chimney. If the chimney is not collapsible, the sealant is applied to the edge of the inner part of the connection. If it is planned to disassemble the chimney, the pipes are first connected, and then a sealant is applied to the edges of the joint, which either dissolves or breaks off during disassembly. For additional reliability, at the joints of the sections, you can install clamps, tightening the junction with screws.

Often, when installing chimneys with your own hands, a fundamental mistake is made. Therefore, the following rule must be observed:

Do you dream of building an economical, safe and warm home? Then you should turn to modern technologies, which intelligently combine centuries of experience, ingenuity and sometimes completely unexpected technical solutions. A good example of this is a two- and three-circuit chimney, inside of which there is insulation. Who would have thought a couple of decades ago that something like this was even possible? Moreover, such a chimney really has many valuable advantages, it is only important to do everything according to the stove rules, without deviating one iota from them.

Proper installation of a sandwich chimney begins with the design of the house. Only when making a drawing, you can correctly comply with absolutely all the requirements for fire safety standards, and then nothing will have to be redone or even rebuilt. If the house or bath is already ready, then it will be necessary to make all the calculations as accurately as possible. We advise you, if you undertook to make such a chimney yourself, approach this issue with all responsibility - you are doing it for yourself.

A small introduction regarding the benefits. In private housing construction in Russia, it is sandwich chimneys that are most widely used, although the choice is quite wide. It's all about the design of such a chimney, which promises ease of use and safety.

Before proceeding with the installation, you will see that such a chimney consists of two pipes of different diameters that are inserted into each other, and the space between them either remains open or is filled with non-combustible insulation. Such a chimney has a high installation speed, low weight of the entire system, absolutely smooth inner walls, good draft and minimal soot formation.

And now the most important thing: you can not install a chimney without special training. For this, there is a so-called passport - a document that you receive when buying such a unit. Usually there is a schematic diagram and detailed installation instructions.

And how to properly mount a chimney from a sandwich pipe and ensure its reliable functioning, this video clip perfectly demonstrates:

If, in addition, your chimney is a complex device, then at least you will need to show it to a specialist later to make sure that such a design is reliable and practical:

How to bring the chimney through the interfloor overlap

Any chimney is always the most dangerous source of fire, because. flue gas temperature is extremely high. And even the slightest violation of the installation of a chimney inside a residential building can lead to dangerous consequences.

So, in order to organize the passage of the chimney through wooden structures, it is necessary to manufacture or purchase a ceiling-through assembly. It must exactly match the outer diameter of the pipe. Thanks to this design, the chimney is at a distance from all nearby surfaces that may come into contact with it:

The easiest way, of course, is to purchase a factory-made chimney assembly and simply overlay heat-insulating material on all sides. The ideal option is basalt wool, if it is really of high quality and can withstand high temperatures. Therefore, when buying one, you must definitely check whether the manufacturer has indicated that cotton wool is allowed to be used at temperatures above 800 degrees Celsius. Naturally, such cotton wool is more expensive than usual, but it makes no sense to save on it, and you probably understand this well.

Here is an option for manufacturing an asbestos-cement box for an interfloor node:

According to the current SNiPs, when the chimney passes through a wooden covering, it is necessary to maintain a distance of at least 38 cm from the inner sandwich pipe to the wooden structure. Moreover, the box should not be empty, but filled with special material.

Yes, of course, sometimes the distance between the rafters does not allow you to adhere to this parameter, and then you have to increase the opening with the help of additional bars. And it is recommended to protect the logs of a wooden structure, as well as rafters with a crate, using a galvanized sheet or asbestos sheet at least 5 mm thick. A galvanized sheet is good in that it not only prevents the spread of fire, but also dissipates heat evenly, preventing it from being concentrated pointwise. It also shields and reflects the hard thermal radiation that comes from the pipe.

This is the main advantage of the sandwich, because if you install a conventional single-pipe steel chimney, such a distance should be at least 50 centimeters.

The following metal fasteners will help to support the pipe in a vertical position:

How to secure the joint of the chimney with a wooden floor?

And now we will touch on the most important point, the knowledge of which will help you avoid a completely unexpected fire.

So, the higher the flue gas temperature, the stronger the sandwich pipe heats up, and all the structural elements around it are exposed to temperature. Therefore, it is extremely important to ensure that the passage elements are reliably protected. And do not think that everything is so simple.

For example, an ordinary tree without special protection is already charred at a temperature of 200 degrees. And dried wood can even catch fire at a temperature of 270 degrees Celsius! If you act on wooden logs for more than a day at a temperature of 170 degrees, they can also catch fire. Unfortunately, it is this moment, which many do not know about, that often causes fires, even if a high-quality sandwich pipe is installed.

Therefore, it is desirable to perform the overlap with good insulation of sufficient thickness so that there is practically no heat from the pipe to the wall and wooden elements. In addition, the more the wood floor itself accumulates heat from the sandwich, the worse the wood will perceive this heat each time. Of course, in an hour or two, the usual insulation in the PPU unit does not have time to warm up to a critical temperature, but the problem is that, speaking in the language of stove-makers, after heating, heat accumulates in wood and insulating materials, and gradually changes their chemical composition.

For example, with prolonged and constant accumulative heating, wood can catch fire already at a temperature of 130 degrees! But on the outside of the sandwich, it often reaches up to 200 degrees (from 75 to 200, as laboratory tests have shown). So this sad thing happens when the stove or fireplace was successfully heated for more than one year, everything was great, and then one day the owners drowned it only 2 hours longer and hotter than usual (to warm up on a particularly cold winter evening or heat a steam room for guests) , and the temperature in the sandwich crossed the critical temperature, and the same temperature of 130 degrees Celsius reached the wood of the ceiling, already dried over the years.

You also need to be careful if mineral wool is used as a PPU thermal insulation material. Over time, from exposure to high temperatures, it also changes its properties and even becomes more thermally conductive! This does not mean that the wool is one day at risk of catching fire, but the outer contour of the chimney in this place will already be much hotter than you originally expected. But this is a factor that was not initially taken into account!

That is why experienced stove-makers are advised not to make the floor insulation too dense (the denser it is, the more heat accumulates in itself). Moreover, the natural possibility of blowing air through the pipe is vital:

They often make a dangerous mistake, poorly calculating the distance between the rafters for the passage of the pipe, which does not correspond to the norm. Please also note that an empty ceiling assembly, in which thermal insulation has not been installed at all, is also not the best option.

Also keep in mind that the material that envelops the inner arc of the chimney tends to settle slightly over time. As a result, the junction of the two walls is sometimes unprotected. And, if this joint burns out (and it is especially dangerous if it is also located inside the ceiling), then the fire that has arisen in such voids will be almost impossible to extinguish. Therefore, once a year or two, all the passage nodes of the sandwich chimney should be carefully examined.

Here is how the passage of the sandwich chimney through the ceiling is properly organized in the very simple version:

If you will install a water tank on the chimney, then the whole installation should look like this:

Pay attention to how the passage of the sandwich pipe through the floor should be performed:

And finally, if it is not possible to put a stove or fireplace directly under the place where the sandwich pipe is removed, you will need a special tee:

Organization of the node through the walls of the house or bath

Today, installing a sandwich chimney is practiced in two main ways: inside the house or outside. Indeed, more and more often you can see that chimneys are mounted directly through the wall to the street, and from the first floor - and from there they are already directed vertically upwards. And this makes sense: this way the chimney cools down much faster, and does not pass through fireproof ceilings and roofs. On the other hand, a chimney that rises through the attic usually serves as an additional heating element. But the risk of fire here, of course, will already be higher.

You will be surprised, but in fact, the outer shell of a stainless steel sandwich is not far from the temperature of a single-circuit chimney. After all, in fact, such a chimney was originally designed to improve draft, and therefore the gases that exit the furnace usually have a temperature of 800 degrees Celsius, and the outer casing can warm up to 300 degrees! And this is far from a fireproof surface.

A modern sandwich chimney is led both through the roof and directly through the walls of a residential building:

You can see the node in more detail in this illustration:

So, the following step-by-step instruction will help you organize the correct angle of passage of the sandwich chimney through the walls:

• Step 1. Before starting work, be sure to calculate the length of the horizontal sandwich pipe that will need to be passed through the wall. And take into account the tee that you will install. Calculate the slope of the roof so that the chimney does not end up too close to the eaves.
• Step 2. Fill the box that you insert into the wall with non-combustible basalt material.
• Step 3. Close the passage assembly with a lid so that the basalt cardboard gasket remains visible.
• Step 4. Close the edges of such an assembly cover with a casing from the accessories exterior finish houses, for example, siding.
• Step 5. Treat the edges of the box with a colorless roofing sealant.
• Step 6 Install a revision at the outlet of the chimney from the wall.
• Step 7. Fix the chimney with special wall brackets, one for every 1.5-2 meters.
• Step 8. So, after you have installed the pipe, check its verticality with a level.
• Step 9. Be sure to make sure that the seam is turned towards the house.

After all, the most important rule sounds like this: the chimney passage through the wall of a house or bath should be protected from fire as much as possible. Here is a good example of such a node:

In order for the horizontal element of the sandwich chimney to be installed securely, it must be properly supported with a metal corner:

Special designs will also help to fix such a chimney to the wall in a strictly vertical position:

Believe me, at this stage the work is not over yet, especially if your chimney will have a complex design (which we strongly do not recommend to you):

The device for the passage of a sandwich chimney through the eaves and roof

The passage of a sandwich chimney through the roof must be done according to the same principles as the passage through the ceiling. At the same time, the distance to wooden structures should be sufficient. And at this stage it is important not to make a dangerous mistake.

Yes, the chimney really cools down when passing through the roof, especially since the space around it is ventilated and therefore many people believe that it is possible to reduce the distance to the protected rafters. Indeed, for a cold roof this is really a suitable option, but for an insulated one it is necessary to adhere to the same distances and norms as for interfloor floors.

To output a sandwich chimney through the roof, a special roof cutting is used. You can purchase absolutely any one, adapted to the angle of your roof and its slopes. And you need to mount the roof cutting from above, turning its edge under the roof ridge.

Here is what the sandwich chimney pass through the cornice should be like:

To bring the sandwich chimney to the roof, you will need to make a hole of sufficient width in the roofing:

Moreover, at the stage of bringing the sandwich chimney through the roof, one cannot do without roofing silicone sealant, which is designed for 1500 degrees of temperature exposure.

When the chimney pipe passes through the sloping roof slopes, the hole itself and its insulation will already be slightly larger in area:

Particular care must be taken to lead the sandwich chimney through the roof if the roofing material itself is combustible. Do not forget that the metal itself, of course. will not light up, but the roofing paint - completely. To do everything correctly, follow these steps:

• Step 1. Start cutting the corrugated board away from the future location of the pipe. It is about 30 centimeters above and more and 10 cm below and on the sides.
• Step 2. Make a galvanized steel roof groove for the pipe and install it starting from the bottom. The cutting should go on the corrugated board at least 15 cm.
• Step 3. Remove the top sheet of corrugated board and lay the top part of the roof groove, then cover its sides by 20 cm.
• Step 4 Install the removed corrugated sheet and secure it.
• Step 5. Now close and seal the seams to avoid further leaks.
• Step 6 Insulate the pipe with non-combustible material and fix it with annealed wire.
• Step 7. Make a chimney umbrella from galvanized steel.
• Step 8. Now, once again seal with welded roofing materials, heated or self-adhesive.

By the way, if you are working with a metal roofing, then it is possible to fix the chimney in such a place using bent trimmings of the roof itself:

In general terms, assembling a chimney outside the walls of the house is practically the same as installing it inside:

All these rules are invented for a reason, because they are based on practical research and fire statistics. Therefore, if you do not want your house to become a sad example for others, follow all the instructions to the last, and even more: always try at least a little, but play it safe, because life is full of unpredictable situations. Study carefully all the subtleties and nuances of the process of installing modern chimneys - and sleep well!

Updated:

Chimneys made of stainless steel right choice and installation solve all the problems of reliable arrangement of this important element of the heating or heating system. Chimney pipes made of stainless steel are the most resistant materials for this purpose, and their appearance will not spoil the overall design of the house. Of course, the price of a stainless steel chimney can scare many, but its durability and positive qualities pay off the significant costs.

Chimney pipes during operation are subject to significant destruction as a result of exposure to factors such as moisture and aggressive substances. Moisture is an important factor that arises from condensation formed when vapors come into contact with a cold surface. Aggressive components of the removed smoke arise during the combustion of fuel (salts, acids, alkalis). All this, taking into account the high temperature that the rising air flow has, destroys the material of the structure. To increase durability, steel systems are increased in thickness.

Another picture is provided by a stainless pipe. Stainless steel due to the content of chromium is able to withstand aggressive impact, which in turn allows to reduce the wall thickness. At the same time, the risk of condensate is also removed, since the thin chimney pipe warms up quickly, and condensate does not have time to form.

When choosing a material, it is important to choose the right steel grade, as this creates an alternative (price and reliability). Naturally, higher-alloy steels also have a higher price, although their use is not always justified given the purpose of the chimney. We can recommend the following choice of steel grades:

1. 430 is set under the condition of low aggressiveness.
2. 409 contains titanium, which makes it possible to use this grade when burning solid fuels (fireplaces, stoves).
3. 316 contains molybdenum and nickel, has an increased resistance to acids at high temperatures, and can be used with liquid fuels.
4. 304 is similar in many ways to 316 but has reduced tool life at a lower price.
5. 321 - universal steel with heat resistance up to 860ºС.
6. 310S is the most durable material with heat resistance up to 1100ºС.

Design features

Chimneys made of stainless steel structurally contain directly chimney pipes that connect special elements. The following types of pipes are mainly used:

1. One-sided pipes (photo 1 - stainless steel chimney pipe) in the form of one single-wall structure, are used in cases where internal work is carried out, that is, a stainless steel chimney is installed indoors.
2. Double-sided structures, or sandwich systems, are made of two pipes (one into the other), between which there is thermal insulation. Designed for stainless steel chimney outer lining.
3. Corrugated chimney (photo 2 - corrugated pipe) is a flexible stainless steel chimney that can be adjusted in direction and height.

Assembling a stainless steel chimney with your own hands is impossible without the use of additional elements. Single-wall stainless steel chimneys include the following main parts: a 45º and 90º elbow, a 45º and 87º tee, a revision and a condensate collector. The installation of these elements is necessary when changing the angle of the pipe and the removal of condensate. Their designs are shown in photos 3 and 4 (main and auxiliary components of the structure). When using corrugations, some additional details can be omitted.

Mounting Features

Chimneys made of stainless steel are mounted according to certain rules that take into account the requirements for reliable operation and fire safety standards of the system. The installation of the chimney column begins with a thorough coating of all welds or rolled joints with a special sealing compound designed for this purpose.

Stainless steel chimneys are mounted from the bottom up, i.e., first they are docked with a heating device.

Each subsequent pipe section is inserted inside the bottom one, and the depth must be at least 50% of the diameter of the pipe section.

Stainless steel chimneys are attached to the supporting structure using brackets installed every 1.4-1.9 m, and the joints are fixed with clamps. When installing bends and tees, individual brackets are used for them. An important part of the chimney system is the outlet of the pipe above the roof, the draft in the system and safety depend on it. When installing the structure, it is important to comply with the following requirements:

1. The passage through the ceiling and roof covering must be equipped with a cutting of non-combustible material with a height of more than 8 cm.
2. The following requirements for the chimney protruding above the roof must be observed. A roof of a flat type or if the exit is located at a distance of less than 1.4 m from the ridge or parapet - more than 55 cm, if located at a distance of more than 1.5 m from these roofing elements - higher than the height of the parapet, if there are attached walls of a higher structure - higher extensions.
3. The sealant must have a heat resistance of at least 1000ºС.
4. The distance of the pipe to the combustible surface cannot be less than 1 m (for a sandwich system - 25 cm).
5. In case of combustible roofing, a spark arrester must be installed at the chimney outlet.
6. Horizontal sections of the chimney should not be longer than 100 cm.
7. The total height of the chimney is set at least 5.5 m.
8. The upper end of the exit on the roof should be protected from precipitation (umbrella).

Video 1 illustrates how to install a stainless steel chimney (chimney installation sequence).

Chimneys are an important and critical part of the heating system. Stainless steel is ideal for this purpose, but installation must be done taking into account the necessary requirements.

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The chimney is a pipe structure of a predominantly vertical type. It is designed to remove combustion products formed during the operation of heating and other appliances (boilers, stoves, fireplaces) into the atmosphere.

How a steel chimney works

Structurally, a steel chimney is a chimney channel made of a solid or segmented metal pipe, which is mounted on the chimney pipe of a heat-generating unit and rushes out through a wall or roof, expelling exhaust gases to the street.

Depending on the specifics of the room, the location of the heater, the configuration of the smoke exhaust circuit can be diverse.

Principle of operation

The principle of operation of the chimney is based on the natural draft force that occurs in the circuit due to temperature differences. The heated air becomes light and naturally rushes upwards.

Fresh cool air coming from the outside not only replaces the exhaust gases, but also supports the operation of the system as a whole, because. oxygenated air masses support the physics of combustion.

Types and designs of stainless steel chimney

Depending on the number of circuits, chimney channels are divided into:

• single-circuit (single-walled).

The thickness of the steel of a single-circuit chimney varies in the range from 0.6 to 2 mm, while the choice of the required thickness is predetermined by the type of heat generator (more precisely, the type of fuel on which it operates). The most affordable option for self-assembly, however, the use of single-wall chimneys is possible only if the smoke exhaust circuit is located inside the house.

Warming, however, most likely will still have to be carried out, moreover, independently, this will make it possible to secure the operation of the chimney, minimize energy losses and prevent the formation of condensate inside the circuit, which means it will extend the life of the entire structure.

• double-circuit (combined sandwich systems).

Chimney sandwich pipes consist of a pair of pipes of different sections, inserted one into the other,. The function of insulation is performed by non-combustible materials: vermiculite, basalt mineral (stone) or ceramic wool. Thermal insulation made in the factory significantly facilitates the assembly of the structure, because there is no need to build an additional protective casing, and also evenly protects the circuit from the effects of sub-zero temperatures when the chimney is taken out of the room.

Double-walled chimneys are considered the best, because. reliable and able to function equally effectively both inside the house and outside.

According to the type of execution, chimneys are:

• flexible (corrugated).

Corrugated pipes are ideal for arranging curved passages, perfectly adapting to any bend. This allows the use of corrugated stainless steel chimneys in houses with beamed and sloping ceilings. The inner surface of the corrugated chimneys is characterized by a minimum coefficient of roughness, which prevents the deposition of soot and soot.

Spiral flexible walls greatly simplify the assembly of the structure and reduce the cost of its cost, because allow you to do without special rotary elements.

• rigid (modular).

Rigid chimney pipes provide excellent stability of the chimney with minimal use of additional mounting brackets. The variety (turns, tees, etc.) allows you to set the desired direction for the contour. The assembly is carried out according to the type of constructor, when one element is attached to another.

However, adjusting the smoke exhaust line to the specifics of the room in terms of selecting the required length of a particular part can cause some difficulties.

According to the cross-sectional shape, stainless steel chimney pipes are produced:

• round,
• oval,
• rectangular, etc.

Depending on the type constructive solution stainless steel chimneys are divided into:

• internal, mounted inside the house, and external, installed on the outside of the building. When placing the highway in the house, chimneys additionally perform the function of a radiator.
• straight and curved.

In addition, chimney pipes differ in overall dimensions: inner and outer diameter, steel thickness, weight.

Advantages and disadvantages

Chimney channels made of stainless steel are characterized by a number of advantages:

• adaptability to any heating concept;
• strength of the steel case;
• light weight and, as a result, no need for the construction of a separate foundation;
• long service life (up to 30 years);
• high coefficient of heat resistance. They are able to withstand temperatures up to 900⁰C;
• resistance to destruction and vibration;
• resistance to temperature extremes, moisture and acid condensate formed inside the circuit;
• resistance to corrosion;
• operational safety;
• ease of installation and minimal time spent on installation work;
• the ability to give the smoke circuit the desired configuration;
• simplicity Maintenance and carrying out repairs;
• acceptable price.

Of the shortcomings, it should be noted:

• the need for thermal insulation measures (relevant only for single-wall chimneys);
• visual non-aesthetic design and, as an option, additional finishing in the form of erecting a decorative box. Although the natural specularity of stainless steel is easily played up in the design of any room.
• non-solidity of the structure when using poor-quality or unsuitable sealant leads to depressurization of the circuit under the influence of high temperatures.

Service life of a stainless steel chimney

Of course, the "life" of a stainless steel chimney is fundamentally less than a brick or ceramic counterpart. However, when correct installation and timely preventive care, stainless steel chimneys can last about 30 years.

The warranty period from manufacturers is usually 15 to 20 years.

Do it yourself or order

Stainless steel chimneys, of course, can be made with your own hands, but without special skills, you should not take on this event and thereby risk the health and life of your family members. But it is quite possible to install a smoke duct on your own, without resorting to the help of experts.

When choosing a suitable chimney, you need to build on the power of the heat generator and the type of fuel on which it runs. Actually, these indicators predetermine the diameter and thickness of the pipe wall.

• Opt for steel that is strong and first grade, capable of withstanding temperatures of at least 700⁰C.
• Check the quality of the seam connection, which ensures the tightness of the chimney channel body. For a solid fuel boiler, laser welding is preferable; rolled seams are suitable exclusively for gas equipment.
• Pay close attention to the characteristics of the thermal insulation material. It must be made of fire-resistant raw materials, so glass wool is not uniquely suitable. The quality of pressing the insulation will determine its service life.

Building regulations

All aspects of chimney installation are governed by the following building codes:

• SNiP II 35/2.04.05-91/2.01.01-82;
• NPB 252-98;
• DBN V.2.5-20-2001;
• GOST 9817-95.

Fire safety requirements for chimneys

Failure to comply with fire safety requirements can cause fires.

• All ceilings through which the chimney passes must be carefully insulated with refractory materials.
• The thickness of the insulating layer varies depending on the type of chimney in the range from 13 to 25 cm.

Traction force

The traction force determines the productivity of the equipment and the safety of the smoke exhaust circuit. It depends on a number of factors:

• chimney length;
• the angle of inclination of the contour;
• the number of its bends;
• presence of vertical sections, etc.

Do-it-yourself chimney installation

Before the start of installation, a detailed scheme of the future chimney is developed, which is mandatory agreed upon with the regulatory authorities.

Upon completion of the installation and inspection of the chimney circuit, an act of commissioning and commissioning of the structure is drawn up and certified.

Necessary materials and tools

When working with modular smoke channels, special equipment is not needed. All you need is a sealant, metal clamps and insulation (if preference was given to single-wall chimneys).

In addition to the pipes themselves, adapters and other components will be required:

Drawing and diagrams

Before starting work, it is required to work out in detail the scheme of the future chimney line, which will outline the general configuration of the circuit and its central elements.

Size calculation

The technical passport of the heat generator traditionally indicates the required diameter of the chimney pipe. If you do not have these data, you will have to make the calculation yourself.

The most unpretentious way is to take data from the table, based on the thermal power of the unit.

A more intricate, but most accurate scheme for calculating fuel consumption involves calculations in several stages:

1. Determination of the volume of combustion products (Vg).

The values ​​of the specific volume (Vy) and the temperature of the gases at the outlet (T) are obtained from the table:

1. Then the cross-sectional area is calculated:

1. Using the formula for the area of ​​a circle, we calculate the diameter of the pipe (d):

The type of fuel used determines the thickness of the steel:

• solid fuel (coal, peat, wood) - over 1 mm;
• liquid fuel - from 0.8 mm;
• gas - from 0.5 mm.

Installation video

A step-by-step video instruction will reflect the fundamental nuances of assembling chimneys:

Mounting specifics

Installation of the chimney channel starts from the bottom. The assembly order prescribes to start work with the installation of the first part on the heat generator nozzle, the diameters of both parts must completely match.

• minimum bends and horizontal sections;
• no intersections with electrical wiring and gas pipelines;
• junctions of parts should not fall on ceilings and walls;
• The total height of the chimney must be at least 5 meters.

The seams are carefully sealed with a heat-resistant sealant and, if necessary, additionally tightened with metal clamps.

To add rigidity to the structure, the chimney circuit is additionally fixed to the wall by means of brackets every 1.5 - 2 meters.

The contour is brought out through the wall by means of a special sleeve, which provides thermal insulation of the wall.

Similar actions are performed when laying the chimney line through the ceiling of the house:

Below are 2 options for the passage of the chimney through the roof:

On top of the roof, the pipe passage is additionally sealed with a special heat-resistant assembly that prevents moisture from seeping inside:

From above the chimney is equipped with:

• umbrella, spark arrester, deflector and weather vane. In modern models, these functions are usually combined;
• snow divider;

• at high altitude pipes, it is necessary to install extension cables.

Common errors and installation problems

• Wrong configuration. Unjustified deviation from verticality, sharp bends and excessive horizontals reduce the traction force in the circuit.
• Insufficient or excessive height of the shaft also reduces the efficiency of the chimney.
• If the head of the pipe enters the zone of wind backwater, it provokes the effect of reverse thrust.

• The use of stainless steel of insufficient strength leads to its fleeting wear and threatens to burn out the steel.

Maintenance and cleaning

The correct operation of the chimney during the heating season is based on the systematic care of the structure, which must be cleaned of soot, soot and debris at least 2 times a year.

• burn household waste in stoves and fireplaces;
• use resin-rich coniferous trees for kindling.

Today we will consider the advice of professional stove-makers on the issue of sealing and insulating stainless steel chimneys.

Sealing and insulation

1. Prefer only for chimneys (not to be confused with heat resistant). The temperature resistance limit is indicated on the packaging.
2. Sealant is used to process the internal seams of prefabricated modules, carefully pre-fitted to each other.
3. Sealing work must not be carried out at temperatures environment below 5⁰C.

Thermal insulation of the chimney circuit is carried out in order to shift the dew point (the place where destructive and toxic condensate forms) closer to the outlet, which reduces the amount of condensate in the system.

As a heater, you need to use a special fire-resistant material, which is different:

• plasticity, which allows it to be easily wrapped around the pipe and secured with clamps, wire, etc .;
• lightness, so as not to exceed the coefficient of permissible bearing load on the system;
• moisture resistance if it is used outdoors.

Conclusion

Stainless steel chimneys perfectly cope with the loads placed on them. Ease of installation and maintainability made them a favorite material for stove-makers. And the versatility and manufacturability allow them to be used even when restoring old brick chimneys.