The best material for sheathing a metal shed. Household block for a summer residence. From blocks or bricks

Before building a barn with your own hands, let's figure out why it is needed and whether it is needed at all. A barn is an outbuilding that is designed to store various things, such as construction tools, materials, small equipment, etc. At first, when a house is being built, it can be used as temporary housing during the warm season. In any case, you should have at least a simple structure on the site.

What is the best way to build a barn quickly and cheaply? The simplest and fastest solution would be the construction of a frame building. At the same time, you can meet the budget of only a few hundred dollars, it all depends on the size and materials.

I decided to build a barn with my own hands as soon as a plot was purchased for building a house. This is the first building on my property. I started the construction in late autumn, so the work took place in two stages.

In principle, it is not necessary to make a barn project. By and large, this structure is being built from the materials that are available, and if something is missing, then just buy more and that's it. But if you, like me, are building a barn from scratch, and do not have any materials, then it is better to make not even a project, but a schematic drawing. This will help to calculate the required amount of materials and purchase them at a time, while saving your time and money on transportation costs.

Since I already have a little experience in designing, I made myself a simple barn project. Even having a project, I made some structural changes during the construction process for one reason or another. This suggests that, even with drawings, it is impossible to foresee everything.

According to the project, I will have a barn measuring 4.5x3 m with a pitched roof. The height of the room in the lower part is 2.2 m in the upper part - 2.7 m. Now I would build a barn lower, for example 1.8 m down and 2.3 m up.

Foundation construction

Since the barn was planned to be made by frame technology, then the foundation can be made columnar with blocks. For these purposes, I used a hollow concrete block (I just did not find a solid one), the voids of which were sealed with mortar.

First of all, you need to decide on the place and only then proceed to marking the building spot. For marking, I needed wooden pegs and twine (you can use fishing line, rope). I drove the pegs further than the building spots at a distance of about a meter so that they would not interfere with me when installing the blocks.

Having pulled the twine, I checked the diagonals, they should be equal. I marked out the installation sites for the blocks and began to dig holes 30-50 cm deep. It is necessary to remove the vegetative layer of soil under the blocks and cover it with rubble or sand, which I did. Thus, it maximized the stability of the foundation.

All blocks must be installed in the same strictly horizontal plane. I did this with the help of a level, I adjusted the height with the amount of rubble. Crushed stone fell asleep in layers, each layer was rammed.

On this, my first stage of construction was completed and the foundation remained for the winter.

Bottom harness and frame

After waiting for the arrival of warm days, I continued the construction of the barn. For this I ordered a board 3.5 m3. For the frame, I took a board 100x50 mm (1.5 m3), for sheathing 150x25 mm (2m3).

I made the lower harness from a board 100x50 mm, laying it on the edge along the foundation columns.

I fastened the boards together using universal screws 100x6 mm (although I tried drywall screws, but they were too fragile and often broke). You can also use nails.

Having laid the boards around the perimeter and fastened them, he immediately checked the diagonals. This must be done periodically so as not to build a crooked building.

The beams of the lower harness must be opened with an antiseptic. It is better to use an antiseptic for difficult working conditions. I used NEOMID concentrate. I opened the beams with an ordinary paint brush, but you can use a pulverizer, it will be faster.

He laid floor boards (150x25 mm) on top of the beams and treated them with an antiseptic. I laid the boards tightly, but since they were freshly sawn, over time, gaps of about 1 cm formed between them. For me, this is not critical, although mice crawl through the gaps into the barn. You can additionally put sheets of plywood on the floor, which will be more practical and aesthetically pleasing.

Here is the base for the walls.

The frame of the walls was first assembled on the floor, then raised, leveled and fixed to the base beams. Regarding the assembly, this work can be easily done by yourself, but it will be difficult to raise and fix the wall on your own, because the structure is quite heavy (due to wet wood) and then tries to fall. For these purposes, an assistant is needed.

To speed up the process of building a barn with my own hands, I used a chainsaw to cut boards and a screwdriver to tighten screws. You can use a jigsaw if there is already electricity on the site.

I recommend using as many different electrical, mechanical and gasoline tools and mechanisms as possible in any construction to speed up and facilitate the work. Only then will the whole process be enjoyable.

When assembling the frame of the walls, I made one mistake - I did not install the braces (inclined boards in the corners of the barn). Then it was quite difficult to mount them. Braces give spatial rigidity to the entire structure and are vital, so do not forget to install them.

In the frame, it is necessary to foresee door and window openings in advance and install horizontal lintels.

After the wall frame is assembled, the roof rafters can be installed. These are the same boards 100x50 mm with a pitch of about 700 mm. I fastened the rafters with metal corners on one side and nails on the other. Let me remind you that if you plan to insulate, then the step must be taken in accordance with the width of the insulation.

wall decoration

I made the wall decoration with a 150x25 mm board, which I fastened on nails (60-70 mm) to the frame posts. In this case, you need to try not to sew up the openings of windows and doors. Here everything is very simple - put a board - nailed it and so on in a circle.

After a while, the board dries out, and cracks form. I covered them with a window glazing bead, as a result of which the barn acquired a pretty look.

To protect the board from environmental influences and various kinds of insects, I opened the barn from the outside by working off the oil. Quite cheap, but not safe from a fire point of view, a way to protect wood. Spent 10 liters of mining.

Roof and roof construction

As for the roof, I thought through many options, but in the end I decided to make it from roofing material. And this is another miscalculation of mine, but more on that later.

On the rafters I made a continuous crate from a board 150x25 mm.

She was also opened with an antiseptic, but only from the outside.

For the installation of the roof, I bought two rolls of roofing material of the RPP-350 brand. I cut it into pieces of 4 meters and laid it along the roof slope with an overlap of 20 cm. I fixed the joints with a 40x20 mm rail.

I expected that this roof would serve me for several seasons, but I was mistaken, after two weeks the roofing material simply broke in several places. The roof had to be redone.

The reason for everything turned out to be poor quality roofing material. From now on, I do not recommend making a roof from paper-based roofing felt. It is better to use euroroofing material with a thickness of 3-4 mm, which will last more than one year.

This time I made an even simpler option - a roof made of greenhouse film with ultraviolet protection. And so, on a continuous crate, I laid a substrate made of reinforced polyethylene (I bought it when I planned to make a roof from ondulin).

On top, in a solid piece, put a greenhouse film with a density of 150 microns. It was fastened, like roofing felt, with a 40x20 mm rail. For six months there were no problems with this roof, I'll see how it goes.

Installation of windows and doors

I installed a used wooden door. I changed the front door in the apartment, so she went to the barn. I made the door frame locally from boards, bought hinges and installed the door.

I made two locks - one mortise, and the second hinged for greater reliability.

Initially, I planned to install a large wooden window in the barn 1200x600 mm, but in a building supermarket I bought an inexpensive metal-plastic window 800x600 mm in size, of course, and installed it. To do this, I had to slightly reduce the window opening.

The window was fixed on universal self-tapping screws 100x6 mm. I first removed the double-glazed window and drilled 2 holes on the side of the frame. I installed the window frame in the opening and fixed it with self-tapping screws according to the level. Put the glass back on.

Outside, the opening was decorated with a platband and a galvanized tide was installed. Inside I made a wooden window sill and filled the cracks with sealant.

Price and terms

I managed to build a barn with my own hands for about $ 1000, and in time about a month (2-3 hours a day).

The most expensive and basic material turned out to be boards. I also had to buy some tools.

cheap

Each owner needs a barn on his own plot, but you don’t always want to bear the high costs of building it. It will be easier and cheaper to build a utility block after the construction of a residential building, since there are always extra materials. But what to do if a person has nothing on his hands, but a utility room is still necessary? Now we will look at what you can build a barn with your own hands cheaply and quickly.

Decide on the purpose of the barn

Before you build a cheap barn, you need to decide on a number of important issues. The design of the hozblok will depend on this, and what will you build it from:

• When erecting even the most inexpensive structure, ask yourself why you need this barn. The answer according to the principle: “It will come in handy for the future” or “To keep up with the neighbors” will not work. You need to know the purpose of the barn. Suppose, if you need a woodcutter, then it will be cheaper to assemble a frame hozblok from boards and timber. To keep animals, you need a strong and warm building. From cheap material here it is better to give preference to foam concrete.
• The amount of expenses depends on the dimensions of the hozblok. If the built barn will be used to keep poultry or animals, you need to roughly calculate how many livestock will live in the room.
• It will be possible to build a barn cheaply only on your own. If it is supposed to use the services of hired builders, then about half of the money will go out of the allocated budget to pay for the work. You also need to buy the right material. Often household blocks are built from used bricks or cinder blocks. They even use old lumber, which is sometimes sold by subsidiary farms after the buildings are dismantled. From cheap new materials for walls, foam block or wood concrete can be distinguished.

Having decided on all these issues, you can already begin to calculate the budget for future construction.

Cheap shed options

Now we will consider several options for how to build a barn with our own hands so that it is cheaper for the owner.

Frame shed - cheap and fast

The first place among cheap sheds should rightfully be given to the frame structure. It will not be possible to build anything faster than such a utility block, and even a person without building experience can do all the work on his own.

Let's get acquainted with how the order of construction of the hozblok looks like:

The frame barn will last at least 10 years. During this time, maybe the owner will be able to save money for a more serious building.

In the video, an example of the construction of a frame barn:

Hozblok from corrugated board

To build not only a cheap, but also a beautiful hozblok will turn out from corrugated board. The material is inexpensive and very light in addition will last for many years. The only disadvantage of corrugated board is its weak rigidity. Before sheathing the walls, the frame of the barn will have to be reinforced with additional jibs and lintels.

In fact, a corrugated board hozblok is an ordinary frame shed. Only the lining material is different. The frame is assembled from a bar, but it is better to give preference to a profile pipe. The costs will not be much more, but once having built a metal structure, it will be enough for the owner for life. The profile frame is assembled by welding. Sometimes craftsmen fasten the elements with a bolted connection.

The corrugated board is fixed with galvanized self-tapping screws with a rubber washer. When sheathing walls, it becomes necessary to trim the sheets. It is better to do this with metal shears. If not, you can use a hand tool. But with such scissors it is easy to cut the corrugated board across the waves. It is difficult to do this along, since the stiffening ribs do not allow the sheet to bend.

You can use a grinder to cut sheets, but the abrasive wheel burns the protective coating of the profiled sheet. Over time, this area will begin to rust. If there is no other way out, you can cut the sheet with a grinder, and then it will be easier to cut the burned edge with scissors. Alternatively, the cut point can be hidden under another sheet, because the laying is still done with an overlap. At the corners of the shed, around the window and door opening, the cut edge of the corrugated board can be hidden under the additional elements.

Reliable and inexpensive shed for animals and poultry

If you need to build a barn for keeping poultry or animals cheaply and quickly, then it is better not to find foam blocks of material. Of course, a hozblok will cost more than a frame structure, but it will last for many decades. Moreover, a foam block shed is great for winter use.

The construction of the barn is carried out in the following sequence:

It is desirable to choose a quality roofing for a barn made of foam blocks. From inexpensive materials, slate or corrugated board is suitable. From what to make the floor inside the barn depends on who will live in it. It is better to send boards to goats. For a bird, a clay floor with sawdust or straw is suitable. Pigs will have to pour a concrete screed, but it is desirable to lay waterproofing and insulation under it. And in the corral where the pigs will sleep, you need to lay the boards.

Conclusion

To truly build a cheap barn, you must first take a closer look at what material is at hand. After that, you can start with the choice of the type of building.

Do-it-yourself hozblok - drawings, a list of building materials

When living in a summer cottage, the first thing they do is build a utility block from various materials, of different sizes. In many cases, this is just a change house or temporary hut until a permanent structure is built, but some people strive to create amenities almost like in an apartment.

To build a hozblok with your own hands after acquiring a site is the next task for its owner. Why on your own, because you can buy a change house or order construction? There are several reasons why many people prefer to build themselves. Firstly, the financial issue: after buying a plot, not everyone will have the money to purchase a utility block or pay for construction by contractors.

Secondly, many change houses available for sale often cause dissatisfaction with those who bought them because of their too short service life. And thirdly, if you have construction experience, the remnants of the material, you can build a household unit yourself not of a standard type, but based on your needs. A well-built change house will last a long time, and the experience gained during its construction will be useful in the future.

A well-built hozblok can serve for various purposes

Having bought several acres, summer residents strive to immediately build a reliable hozblok for various purposes:

• as housing until a house is built, in order to later remake it for other needs;
• an outbuilding for inventory and other property;
• as a locker room, pantry, bathroom, summer kitchen;
• as sheds for rabbits, poultry, livestock.

Hozblok is a universal room, everyone can adapt it to their needs. If the owners spend a lot of time at their summer cottage working on the ground, then they will think about a rest room, a bed in it to spend the night. A small compact structure can look like a simple barn or a house from a fairy tale. It all depends on the needs, opportunities, priorities of the owner.

Construction begins with a foundation and ends with a roof. There is no particular choice in the materials here. The foundation is made tape or columnar. For tape, you need sand, cement, crushed stone or concrete blocks. Columnar is made of brick or stone. AT recent times asbestos-cement pipes are used, which are poured with concrete. The hozblok is usually covered with inexpensive material: slate or corrugated board.

The erection of walls often poses a summer resident with the problem of choosing a material. It follows from several factors: cost, labor intensity, thermal protection, if they are going to live in the hozblok in the winter. Cheap material will save money, and light (panels, aerated concrete) will allow you to arrange a cheaper foundation. Large blocks, shields, sip panels, boards, wall decking will significantly speed up construction.

To build a hozblok, one of the simplest schemes is increasingly being used - a wireframe.

Having dealt with the material, we determine the purpose and, accordingly, with the dimensions, we make drawings. The smallest change house-pantry, which can also serve as a temporary shelter, has dimensions of 3.5 × 2.5 m. m. In both cases, it is impossible to find a place for a bathroom, you will have to arrange a toilet and a shower in the yard. Hozblok 6 × 3 will allow you to place everything you need for living with minimal amenities.

Consider how to build a 6 × 3 m hozblok, how much and what material will be needed. We stop at one option, because it is impossible to consider the whole variety. If the dimensions of your frame structure are different, it is easy to calculate the amount of material by increasing or decreasing it.

Starting construction, be sure to draw a drawing, as best we can, focusing on it, draw up a list of materials. You should not rush into this, it is better to think carefully about everything until you find the perfect option.

You will need bars 100 × 100 mm:

• for the lower and upper frame 6 m long - 6 pieces, three-meter - 8;
• for vertical supports - 2.4 m - 11 pieces;
• 2 pieces of 6.6 m for rafters;
• plus horizontal bars on doors and windows.

For the frame you need bars

• on the floor 20 pieces 25 × 150 mm, the same amount on the ceiling or replace with other material (plywood, fiberboard, etc.);
• on the crate - 7 pcs. 25×100 6 m long;
• for wind deflectors the same 2 pieces, but 3.6 m long;
• for fastening rafters - 50 × 100 × 3600 - 6 pieces.

If you make a metal frame of the building, we focus on the length of the lumber. We calculate the amount of material for the foundation, coating, focusing on the size of the building. If the foundation is tape, you will need quite a lot of sand, cement, gravel. Columnar will cost much less; for a frame hozblok, it is a good option.

We make a columnar foundation from asbestos-cement pipes with a diameter of 150 mm. First, we mark out a place for the foundation: we remove the sod and a layer of earth to the depth of the shovel bayonet. We fall asleep 10 cm of sand, ram it well. At the place where the pipes are installed, we dig holes with a depth of 1.2 m, fill the bottom with sand, and ram. We place pipes of the required length in the pits.

First, a columnar foundation is made

With a building level, we check the verticality, horizontality and the correct location along the perimeter of the building. We fix the position by filling the space between the solbs and the ground with sand. We fill the pipes inside with concrete or cement-sand mortar. First, fill in a third of the length, slightly raise it so that the solution goes into the pit and forms a solid base at the bottom. We fill the pipes to the top, compacting the concrete so that cavities do not form. In the center of each pipe we put anchors for fixing the frame frame.

While the foundation is gaining strength for several weeks, we are preparing the frame. From the bars 10 × 10 cm we make a rectangle, fastening the corners to the half-tree, fixing with nails and self-tapping screws. To strengthen the frame inside, we install logs across. The wood for the frame, as well as for the entire structure, is treated with antiseptics or twice hot drying oil. At the top of each column we lay roofing material for waterproofing. We lay the frame on the anchor, lightly tap to mark the places for the holes. We drill holes, install the lower trim on the foundation, fixing it with nuts on the anchors.

We start assembling the frame from the ends, we fasten the building material to the bottom trim with metal corners. To strengthen the fixation, you can install struts of bars diagonally or temporarily fasten with a board on self-tapping screws. We assemble the front part of the frame by installing vertical racks, then the back. The distance between the uprights is 1.8 m. We reinforce the frame with diagonal struts from the bars.

Do not forget about windows and doors, making openings in the places of their installation. The size of the doorway is 2 × 0.85 m. We install crossbars for windows: the lower horizontal is at a height of 80 cm from the frame, the upper one is 1 m from the bottom. If we plan to arrange several sections inside, we install partitions. We finally fasten the frame racks at the top with bars.

We make the roof depending on the method of assembling the frame. If the building has front and rear sides of different heights, we install rafters on the longitudinal bars of the walls, we attach the crate to them. If the walls are the same height, we assemble the rafters on the ground, and then we install them ready-made at the top. We create the necessary slope by raising the front part by 50 cm. But it should be borne in mind that one person will not be able to lift them, therefore, if there is no assistant, we collect them at the top.

Immediately after assembling the frame, we cut the roof. The list of available roofing material is large, respectively, we make the crate for large sheets rare, for roll material - solid. Before laying the floor, it is desirable to insulate the subfloor: we fill the openings between the pillars with any material, fastening with cement mortar, inside we fill it with expanded clay. On the logs we lay the floor from the boards.

We sheathe the walls, starting from the front wall, we go from bottom to top. The material can be different: boards, lining, siding, corrugated board, etc. We insulate with glass wool, it is undesirable to use polystyrene foam - mice adore it. We sheathe the walls from the inside, make partitions, install windows, hang doors - the utility block is ready and, undoubtedly, will become an adornment of the land plot.

How and from what to build a frame barn with your own hands

A shed on a suburban area is vital. Otherwise, you will have to store garden tools and equipment in the house itself. Naturally, this will not contribute to a comfortable stay. A barn is a simple structure of a lightweight type. Making it with your own hands is quite possible for most skilled men.

What is a frame shed for?

An outbuilding in the form of a barn on a suburban area is vital. It is intended for storing garden and garden tools, ranging from a simple shovel or chopper to a walk-behind tractor, a watering pump and other expensive equipment. In addition, it is simply unsafe to store pesticides, fertilizers or a small supply of gasoline in other rooms.

Thanks to the frame shed, it will be possible to store all garden tools

Benefits of frame construction

The main advantage of the frame structure is its quick erection and low labor intensity of construction. The benefits are as follows:

1. The possibility of using lumber of the second or third grade.
2. Ease of design.
3. The ability to quickly move to another place, if provided for by the design of the building. To do this, the support frame is made with a small ledge and a notch at an angle of 45 degrees, forming a kind of skid.
4. Fast erection.

If we talk about the shortcomings of structures of this kind, then they arise only in connection with design or execution errors.

A frame shed is built simply and quickly

Preparation for construction, design and calculations

Preparation for the construction of the barn consists of the following activities:

1. Location determination. Since this building is intended to store items and materials needed for use in the garden, the barn must be placed on the site adjacent to the front garden. To save space, it is better to build it closer to the boundary. The rules establish that the barn should not be closer than one meter to the neighboring site.
2. The dimensions of the building in the plan are best chosen for reasons of rational use of materials. So, the optimal option would be a size of 6x4 meters. At the same time, the length corresponds to the dimensions of the standard lumber length - 6 meters, and the width assumes a two-meter-long departure, which can be used for racks on the low (rear) side of the building. For the front, you can cut the timber in half and take it completely on the racks.
3. Thus, the main dimensions of the barn with a shed roof were determined, the angle of inclination of which will be about 14 degrees. This is an ideal building option in terms of the rational use of materials.
4. The distance between the racks of the frame should be no more than one and a half meters. At the extreme openings, braces must be installed to counteract wind loads. The size of the beam for them should be the same as the size of the bearing support posts. If a beam of 100x100 millimeters is used, then the jibs can be made from a beam of 50x100. In total, you will need 8 pieces of such parts.
5. The upper trim of the frame must be made of a beam of the same size as the lower one, in our case it is 100x100 mm.
6. For rafters, you can use a bar 50x150 mm, installed vertically in width.
7. Wall cladding from the outside should be made from any waterproof sheet material: plywood, OSB boards, drywall. A common material for walls is unedged board. Tes must be sanded before installation.

Let's deal with the supporting structure. The barn does not need a massive foundation. It can be installed on small concrete blocks, using them in the corners and in the middle of the walls. However, in areas with high wind loads, it is better to use screw anchors. This is a version of the screw pile in miniature. It is enough to install them at a distance of two meters from each other, the total need for such parts will be 8 pieces.

If you use the frame device scheme, you can make a solid barn with your own hands

Preparing the site for the shed

The site for this building is prepared as follows:

1. It is necessary to free up space from the fertile layer, which will require the removal of soil to a depth of 30 centimeters. The surface must be carefully leveled and compacted.
2. After that, it is necessary to arrange a drainage layer by pouring sand 12-15 centimeters thick into the recess. Fill the rest with gravel of medium fraction, compact the entire surface.

Thus, the likelihood of stagnation of water under the barn, which will easily leave through the drainage, is reduced.

Calculation of the need for materials

The amount of materials needed to build a barn is conveniently calculated in tabular form.

How to build a barn with your own hands

The shed is one of the most important and useful outbuildings. In this building, you can store all kinds of garden accessories, barbecue, garden and home care products, tools. With a strong desire, you can even equip a toilet and a summer shower in the barn.

How to build a barn with your own hands

With proper preparation, the construction of a barn will not take much time and money. There are several types of such outbuildings. Beginners are advised to give preference to frame structures - they are the easiest to build.

Instructions for arranging a frame barn will be given below. Read the guidelines and get started.

How to build a barn with your own hands

Choosing a place for a barn

When choosing a place for a barn, be guided by personal preferences. Some owners like it better when the barn is located in some corner of the site. Others are more comfortable when the barn is located next to the house.

It is most rational to build a barn in an area that is least suitable for growing garden and various kinds of crops. Almost anywhere you can find a place like this.

At the stage of choosing a place for arranging a barn, consider the location of other areas of the land, take into account the dimensions of the building being built and its external data. Try to make sure that the barn fits well into the surroundings and blends harmoniously with nearby buildings.

We build a barn with our own hands

Work set

1. Machine for wood processing. You can do without a machine, but with it the work will be faster and easier.
2. Electric jigsaw.
3. Hand circular saw.
4. Electric planer.
5. Screwdriver.
6. Electric drill.
7. Chain Saw.
8. Boards.
9. Logs.
10. Ruberoid.
11. Fasteners.
12. Switches.
13. PVA glue.
14. Sockets.
15. Oilcloth.

Foundation

Any building structure needs a reliable and durable foundation that can support its weight.

For arranging a barn, bases of a columnar, monolithic, tape and pile-screw type are suitable. The columnar foundation is suitable in most cases, so experts recommend giving preference to just such a design.

Mark out a site for arranging the foundation. Any suitable pegs, cord and tape measure will help you with this.

With a tape measure, measure the sides of the figure and its diagonals. The length of the elements must be the same.

How to make a column foundation

Arrange supports from asbestos pipes filled with reinforcement and concrete, or brick pillars - choose at your discretion.

Make sure that the pillars are evenly installed using a building level, fill the space around the pillars in the pits with a sand and gravel mixture for about 150 mm of the height of the recess, and fill the remaining space with concrete.

Creating a foundation from asbestos pipes

Reinforced column foundation

Leave the foundation to gain strength for a few days.

Before backfilling and concreting, you can treat the support posts with special mastic. It will help improve the waterproofing of the base and extend its service life.

Start assembling the frame of the future barn. Pre-soak all wooden elements with an antiseptic. The best option is impregnation with color. It is simply more convenient to use such a tool - untreated places will be clearly visible.

Lay a support from a bar on a dried base. Select the dimensions of the timber in accordance with the dimensions of the barn being built.

Base - foundation and perimeter of timber

Assembling a frame from wooden beams

Lay the beam on the support posts, previously covered with waterproofing material (roofing material). Fasten the columns in any suitable way at your discretion.

Lay wooden boards 3-4 cm thick on the frame. At this stage of work, the main thing is to carefully cut out the parts of the boards near the vertical racks as accurately as possible.

Fasten the boards to the floor joists in a "hidden" way.

When determining the required number of support posts, consider the presence of openings for installing double-glazed windows and doors, as well as the number of corners of the structure.

Set the bars strictly according to the building level. For leveling, use slope sticks. They will allow you to provide temporary fixation of the bars in the desired position. Use nails to temporarily hold the elements together. Hammer them about half the length so that in the future there will be no difficulties with the dismantling of temporary supports.

Assembling a frame from wooden beams

Attach vertical support posts to the bottom trim of the frame. Fix with the help of corners, self-tapping screws, as well as pins coming out of the base.

The frame can also be built on brick supports. In this case, first, several rows of brickwork are arranged along the perimeter of the foundation, and after that, wooden vertical racks are installed on them.

The bars of the upper trim with ready-made nests are mounted on the installed racks

Carry out the processing of the three inner sides of the vertical bar with an electric planer. From the sides directed towards the inside of the barn, chamfer. Without processing, leave only the sides that will later be sheathed with external boards.

Roofing and wall cladding

Shed roof shed

Attach the upper component of the barn frame to the exposed vertical support posts. Pre-prepare cuts in the beam according to the size of the racks. Fix the connections with corners and self-tapping screws.

Traditionally, sheds are equipped with shed roof structures. In this case, the length of the wooden posts on one side must exceed the length of the opposite supports.

Lathing for laying a soft roof on the roof

Such placement will further contribute to the effective removal of sedimentary moisture from the roof surface.

Equip the rafters of the roof structure from boards 4-5 cm thick. The length of the rafters should be approximately 50 cm longer than the length of the frame.

Treat the frame with an antiseptic. Attach the batten boards to the frame. Boards with dimensions of 2.5x15 cm are optimally suited.

The roof of the boards requires the mandatory arrangement of a waterproofing layer. Traditionally, roofing material is used for moisture insulation. If you plan to install a more beautiful finish, equip the waterproofing with a plastic film.

Choose the finish of your choice. You can lay metal tiles, profiled sheets, euro slates, etc.

Shed roof device

Lining is suitable for cladding the walls of the building, you can also fix chipboard, boards and other similar materials. First, sheathe the front side of the shed, and then finish the cladding of the side and back walls. Fasten the boards without gaps.

Shed roof design option

If necessary, treat the outside of the boards with an electric planer. Usually, such processing is needed only when cladding walls with boards. Thanks to this, the material will become more attractive in appearance, and rain on a smooth surface lingers much less.

If desired, you can paint the walls of the barn. For painting such buildings, oil and water-based compositions are best suited.

Carry out the internal arrangement of the finished barn at your discretion. If the building is designed to store various kinds of tools and accessories, install convenient racks and shelves around the perimeter. Shelving allows you to make the most of the available space and easily access the things you need.

You can buy racks and shelves ready-made or you can make them yourself, for example, from boards, fiberboard, furniture remnants, etc.

This barn is ready. You just have to bring electrical wiring to it, if necessary, and install the required devices.

Video - How to build a barn with your own hands

A barn is necessary both on the territory of a private house and a summer cottage. It allows you to solve many economic problems. This room is designed to store firewood, fertilizer, garden tools or any equipment, such as a lawn mower. You can also install a workbench in it, equip a workshop. There are many ways how and from what materials to build it. In the article we will look at how to build an inexpensive frame barn with our own hands.

A few important points when designing a barn

Despite the simplicity of the design, some nuances should be taken into account before its construction:

• the barn should not be visible from the main entrance to the territory, it is better to place it in the background. No matter how neat it is, it is still an economic unit;
• the approach to it should be free, since it is possible to bring in and take out large items (during repairs in the house) or building materials;
• it is better to place it on a hill, thereby protecting the building from melt or rainwater. This will prevent the appearance of dampness in the room, corrosion on metal parts and rotting of wooden frame elements;
• a carefully thought-out layout of the premises will help to avoid changes during construction or additional extensions after it is completed. Perhaps it will be equipped with a workshop, a playroom, a summer kitchen, or places for chickens? Then it is advisable to divide the room into two parts: utility and workshop (playroom, etc.). In this case, it is recommended to make two separate entrances;

• undoubtedly, a frame-type barn has a long service life. For the construction of walls, ordinary lumber and OSB are more often used. You can give this building a more pleasant and neat look by sheathing it with clapboard or siding;
• a brick-walled hozblok will last for ages, but at the same time it will cost much more. In this case, it is recommended to make a plinth of three or four rows of clinker, lay waterproofing and continue construction with logs.
• on a frame shed, a single-pitched roof is usually made, but a gable version is also available if desired. For roofing, euroslate or profiled sheet is more often used, but here, of course, you can also choose the material that covers the roof of the main building to maintain the overall style;
• before construction, it is necessary to accurately determine the location of the door and the roof slope, otherwise raindrops or melt water will drain right above the entrance;
• do not forget about waterproofing, using, for example, a film that should be stretched over the rafters, and then fix the counter-lattice.

Construction of a frame shed

Foundation for frame shed

You can protect the wooden frame from moisture with the help of a strip foundation, the best option would be if you make a base (30-40 cm) of concrete. It should be remembered that it is not suitable for sedimentary and peaty soil. Also, such a base is suitable if you plan to make the first few rows of clinker, then there is no need for a plinth.

Stages of work

• For this, a trench is prepared with a depth of about 30-40 cm and a width of 25-30 cm, a 10-15 cm sand cushion is poured.
• Insulation must be laid on top, otherwise, when pouring concrete, the "milk" will immediately be absorbed into the sand, thereby reducing the strength characteristics of concrete.
• Then the formwork is mounted. The height of this structure above the ground must correspond to the height of the base. If necessary, the upper part of the formwork is reinforced with props. Particular attention should be paid to the corners, because it is on them that the main load falls. Next, reinforcement with a thickness of 10-12 mm is laid, it is knitted together with wire or strengthened with special clamps, welding of the cells is unacceptable.

• Concrete laying (M200, 250) is desirable to carry out in one go. It is not recommended to carry out these works in the rain, and in hot weather it must be regularly moistened with water to avoid microcracks, which, in turn, will further affect the strength of the entire base.
• After 10-14 days, you can begin to install vertical supports, as a rule, by this time the concrete is gaining up to 70% strength.

A columnar foundation is also applicable to light buildings.

Stages of work

• To do this, along the perimeter of the structure and always at the corners with a step of no more than 1.5 meters, the so-called "stools" made of burnt bricks are set up. Where their width is 240 mm - two bricks, and height - 195 mm (3 rows of bricks).
• The laying is carried out with dressing of the seams; cement M400 is better suited for the mortar. So that the building does not warp, it is necessary to monitor the vertical and horizontal columns.

As an alternative, hollow concrete blocks can be used.(390x190 mm), later these voids are filled with sand-cement mortar.

Stages of work

• Here, holes are dug to a depth of about 0.5 m, covered with sand and gravel (each layer is compacted) and then blocks are installed.
• They are necessarily mounted at the corners of the building and then distributed around the entire perimeter, the recommended distance between them is about 1 meter.
• An additional row of concrete blocks can also be put under the floor of the future barn.

wooden foundation it is desirable to make from larch logs with a thickness of about 300 mm, they must be treated at least 2-3 times with liquid bitumen.

Stages of work

• Holes are drilled and prepared wooden piles are installed in them. Watering the soil, carefully compact it and then saw off to the desired height (30-40 cm).
• For reliability, concrete mortar can be poured into the hole.
• Instead of logs, metal piles will also serve as structural elements.

Floor. Walls. Roof

• fastening of the strapping beam to wooden piles is carried out with nails, which must be hammered in obliquely;
• to a brick and concrete grillage, installation is carried out with T-shaped anchor studs.

• At the stage of installation of the strapping, waterproofing should be laid (for example, roofing material in a couple of layers), and the strapping with lumber is already carried out from above.
• For the frame, a beam of 100x100 mm is used, their joints at the corners can be made into a “half-log”, where cuts of approximately 50x50 mm are made for half the thickness of the beam (on both sides). If necessary, with a chisel or a sharply sharpened ax, parts are adjusted to the corners of the frame.

• Log beams are laid from a 50x100 board, placed on an edge with a step of no more than 600 mm. All elements are interconnected with nails or screws.

Tip: for the convenience of work, a working platform (rough floor) is being performed. For flooring, boards 30x150 mm are used, with a tight fit to each other or sheets of plywood, chipboard 16 mm thick.

• Before installing the racks for the walls, it is necessary to check all horizontal lines and check the diagonals of the resulting bottom trim.
• Vertical racks made of timber 100x100 mm are fastened using L-shaped metal fasteners or ordinary nails with an oblique slaughter. The distance between them should be no more than 1.5 m. For greater reliability, they are fastened diagonally with a board of 40x100 mm.

• Non-angular supports can be strengthened with jibs so that they do not “diverge”, after the upper strapping is completed, they are removed.
• The location of the racks for the door depends on its type and size. If the door is single-leaf, then there are 2 options for installing vertical supports:
  1. on the one hand, a corner beam will serve as a support for the box, and then one additional rack is additionally installed;
  2. but if the door is planned in the center of the wall, then 2 racks are mounted. The distance between them dictates the width of the door with the frame.
• Next comes the turn of the installation of a horizontal bar, which should correspond to the height of the door. On the walls, in places for windows, bars of the required sizes are also displayed.
• Then the upper strapping is performed, the same lumber is used here. At this stage, it is necessary to carry out a tie-in into the racks. The load-bearing logs of the ceiling from boards 50x100 mm are also installed.
• For a shed roof, one of its sides must be sewn (raised) with bars until the required slope is obtained, which should not be less than 25 °. When installing rafters, remember that they should protrude beyond the edge of the roof by about 300 mm. Be sure to expose rafter legs (supports).

• Cross boards 50x100 mm are also installed with a ledge, a step of not more than 600 mm. Then a crate is made for the installation of roofing material. Depending on the material, it can be solid or discharged. As a waterproofing, an ordinary roofing material or membrane film will perform perfectly.

Facing a frame shed

• Any material is used for sheathing, usually it is a profiled sheet or boards, the fastening of which can be made both vertically and horizontally, with or without an overlap of 2-3 cm.
• You can also take a lining, but this option will be an order of magnitude more expensive.
• The inside of the hozblok is optionally insulated, depending on its purpose, sheathed, separated by a partition, a workbench, racks are installed, and the place of "residence" of chickens is determined.

The amount of material for the project frame barn 3x6 m

Before you build a frame shed, you need to draw up a drawing so that you do not have to refine your plan on the go. The plan will allow you to correctly calculate, and then purchase the required material. It should be noted right away that all lumber is carefully treated on all sides with a variety of impregnations, antiseptics, so it will last an order of magnitude longer.

The dimensions of boards, bars depend on the type of their fastening: complete cutting (incomplete “to the floor of a tree”) or with the help of steel strips, corners.

For fixing, nails, self-tapping screws, screws are used, special L-shaped strips are used for more reliable fastening, especially at the corners of the structure.

Below is a calculation of the material required for the construction of a frame of a 3x6 m utility block on a strip base, with one window 1.5x1 m, a door 80x200 cm (in the center of the wall).

• Bottom and top harness and joists (floor beams)- bars 100x100 mm - 6 pcs. 6000 mm and 8 pcs. 3000 mm.
• flooring carried out by 6000 mm boards 25x150 mm, they need 20 pieces.
• Vertical supports- bars 100x100 mm - 11 pieces 2400 mm, two of which will go to the racks for the door.
• Roof slope can be created in 2 ways: build up 50 cm with bars, for this you need 4 pieces, or when installing vertical supports on one side, which will have a slope, should be initially shorter (lower).
• Draft ceiling also cover with sheets of plywood or fiberboard, DSV, OSB or use boards 25x150 mm.
• rafters are made of bars 100x100 mm, taking into account 300 mm overlap, 2 pcs are needed here. by 6600 mm.
• rafter legs in this case, they are mounted in increments of 90 cm - 6 boards 50x100x3600 mm.
• crate discharged type is mounted in increments of 600 mm from boards 25x100x6600 mm, they will need 7 pieces.
• End boards (visor) installed at the ends of the building, for this, lumber 25x100 mm is used. Accordingly, we need 2 boards 6600 mm and 2 - 3600 mm long.
• For the window and door, you will need additional horizontal bars: 2 bars 100x100x1500 mm and 1 bar 100x100x800 mm.

Plastic or metal frame shed

A new word in construction is a shed made of plastic or metal.

Advantages

• These options are ideal for those who value their time and do not accept construction "dirt" on the site.
• The parts of the household unit are packed in boxes, thereby ensuring convenient transportation to the desired point.
• Such a structure, if necessary, is easy to move, because its installation / dismantling is quite simple and takes less than two hours.
• A shed made of these materials has an aesthetic appearance, thanks to a variety of colors.
• One of its advantages is practicality, it does not need special care, such as antiseptic treatment or annual painting. Caring for such a hozblok consists in washing with ordinary water.
• For its installation, a foundation is not required, a base made of crushed stone or a sand and gravel mixture is suitable here. A frame reinforced with reinforcement will help withstand snow and wind loads.
• When erecting or installing a finished frame shed or change house, it should be remembered that any building must be at least 5 m away from the street line, and 3 m from the neighboring site. The remaining nuances are the position on the territory, orientation to the cardinal points is already As they say, it's a matter of personal taste.

Frame shed photo

Arranging a suburban area is like repairing an apartment. The process cannot be terminated, it can only be paused and then resumed. Own estate, like a living organism, always requires close attention from the owner, investment of labor efforts and funds. The question becomes especially acute when it comes to household buildings. I want them to be strong, comfortable, outwardly worthy, but inexpensive.

The union of savings with the result is possible if you build with your own hands. To do this, you need to know how a frame shed with a shed roof is being built - the most affordable option for an inexperienced performer.

It is not without reason that frame technologies are persistently pushing out the usual methods of construction from domestic open spaces. New methods are widely used in the construction of baths, garages, dachas, solid residential buildings. In the field of barn construction, frame technology has no alternative at all, because it:

• Cheap. Significantly reduces the consumption of materials required for the construction of walls. Due to the lightness of the frame construction, the budgetary columnar foundation serves as the basis.
• Fast. Construction is carried out many times faster than the construction of load-bearing structures made of foam blocks, bricks, timber, logs.
• Easily. Installation of frame elements of a small barn is carried out without special construction equipment.
• Practical. The building assembled from the shields on the frame can be dismantled if necessary, moved and reassembled in another place.

Other than that, it's just convenient. The frame structure easily adapts to the economic needs and taste criteria of the owners. It is possible to add or change the configuration.

The truss systems of pitched roofs are based on the upper trim of the frame structure, which plays the role of a Mauerlat. When constructing a shed roof in the classic version, the rafters are laid separately on walls of different heights.

The difference in the height of the supporting walls provides the slope with the slope necessary for the removal of precipitation. However, for a shed roof, this is an optional condition. It is quite possible to build it above a box with walls located on the same level if:

• Build a cantilever frame over one of the walls of the frame box. The frame in such structures acts as a support for the run, on which the rafters rest on top.
• Install truss trusses, shaped like a right triangle. The long boat of the triangle is attached to the harness, the hypotenuse plays the role of a rafter leg.

The choice of shed roof covering is closely related to the slope of its single plane. In most cases, these are gentle structures with a steepness of up to 8º. For their arrangement, bitumen or bitumen-polymer roll material is best suited.

Shed systems with a slope of 10º to 25º are covered with metal profiled sheets or roofing steel without a profile. If it is necessary to maintain the integrity of the architectural ensemble, it is permissible to lay piece material on shed roofs. But it should be clearly remembered that the lower the steepness, the greater the likelihood of stagnation of precipitation and the flow of atmospheric water into the roofing pie. Following the extremely undesirable moisture of the components of the roofing system, premature destruction will inevitably occur.

Building a barn with a shed roof step by step

Case studies are the best way to learn how to properly build a shed with a solid shed roof. The study of real solutions will help to study the principles of technology, get an idea of ​​how to distribute the stages of work and what to focus on.

The projects proposed by us as a sample will make it possible to build a similar object without any problems or suggest how to make your own development.

Construction of a frame shed on skids

The indisputable advantage of a light frame shed on skids is that it can be moved and installed at any point in the garden plot if desired. For example, it can be placed near a swimming pool or a pond in the summer for temporary placement of pumping equipment, and at the end of the season it can be moved closer to the house for storing firewood.

For the purpose of periodic transportation, the structure is installed on skids made of timber. If the idea of ​​mobility does not captivate, the shed, depending on the properties of the underlying soil, rests on a surface reinforced concrete slab or on shallow concrete blocks located at the corners of the building.

We will illustrate the process of building a shed on skids. The owner, who knows only the basic techniques of carpentry, will be able to build such an object with his own hands and equip it with an elementary pitched roof. The dimensions in the figures are given in inches, we did not change them so as not to confuse interested readers. Those who wish can translate the data by multiplying the given numbers by a conditional coefficient of 2.54.

For convenience, we divide the construction into the following stages:

• Foundation construction. Structurally, it includes a frame attached to two parallel skid bars. The skids are made of timber 4'×4', the frame is made of timber 2'×4'. The space between the sides of the frame is filled with pieces of timber 2'×4'. The base elements are connected with nails or self-tapping screws. For reliability, it is desirable to duplicate critical places with metal corners. The runners are fixed with 4 screws. All fastening points must be at least 1.2” from the edge of the workpiece to be attached, so that the wooden parts do not split.
• Floor device. We measure the diagonals before attaching a 3/4 ″ plywood sheet to the frame, which plays the role of the future floor. The dimensions of the diagonals must match. If the condition is not met, we identify the flaws and correct them, then we fix the sheet. We do not tighten the fasteners “all the way” so as not to damage the plywood. Along the perimeter of the floor, taking into account the doorway, we lay an additional strapping.
• Building the back wall of the frame. We cut out the details for it from an inch in size, taking into account the formation of the doorway. The top of the vertical elements should be sawn at an angle of 17.5º. Wall racks are fixed with temporary jibs. After checking the installation parameters with a level gauge, the racks are fastened with corners to the base. The top of ordinary racks and short racks above the opening is connected by a board nailed on top - the back of the top trim. It should be at an angle.
• Construction of the front wall. It is carried out by analogy, but taking into account the absence of a doorway. We cut out the racks in size and cut them down in the upper part at an angle of 17.5º. In both cases, it is more convenient to cut down before installation. However, if there is no confidence in the accuracy of cutting and installation, it is better to cut the parts with a small margin. And after installation and fixing, cut down after the fact.
• Building the side walls. They are made in the form of a frame with a central pillar in the middle. The extreme elements of the frame reinforce the corner posts of the frame shed.
• Making rafters. For cutting rafters, an inch trim is used. We apply it to the place of the upcoming installation from the end and mark the lines of cuts. We cut out according to this template from a bar 2ʺ × 4ʺ.
• Installation of rafter legs. We place the rafters exactly above the racks of the front and rear walls. For fastening, we use nails or self-tapping screws.
• sheathing. Produced by wall profiled sheet, grooved or non-grooved board.
• Wind board mount. After sheathing the walls, a 1' × 4' board is installed at the top along the perimeter so that the edge of the previous element is closed by the end of the next one. Cutting of parts is carried out with preliminary fittings according to the actual position.
• Lathing installation. We cut moisture-resistant plywood 1/2ʺ taking into account the actual area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe roof along with the board installed around the perimeter. Sheet material is fixed to the rafters.
• Laying waterproofing and coating. On sloping roofs, we lay a continuous waterproofing carpet on top of the crate. Waterproofing strips are laid from the bottom up so that the seams are ultimately directed along the flow of atmospheric water. Waterproofing is laid with an overlap of 10-15cm. A roof is laid on top of it. In the described example, this is a flexible tile, the laying technology of which.

At the end, the doorway is framed with jambs from the board 1ʺ × 4ʺ, door hinges are installed and the door is hung.

The proposed method of building a mobile shed with a shed roof is suitable for the construction of do-it-yourself children's houses, booths for storing equipment, and external components of borehole heads.

In budget options, the base frame can be simply fixed by driving reinforcement into the ground. Metal rods about 50 cm long are either simply hammered through holes drilled in the frame, or hammered near the base, and attached to it with metal plates.

Construction of a stationary change house

Despite the more solid dimensions of the next barn, pouring a strip or monolithic foundation under it does not make the slightest sense. Enough concrete blocks laid in three rows. However, this does not mean that the work of digging and preparing the foundation pit can be abolished. It is allowed to refuse them only if a site is allocated for construction, previously leveled and carefully compacted during active operation.

If the barn is to be built on an unprepared site, then you will first have to completely remove the soil and vegetation layer. Then dig a pit, 0.2 m deep below the level of seasonal freezing in a particular region.

We will find the mark in the collection of standards "Construction climatology", not forgetting to compare the readings with the type of soil on the site. The bottom of the pit should be compacted, covered with a gravel-sand cushion for 25-30 cm and poured with a layer of lean cement 10 cm thick.

After the concrete has hardened, we mark the pit for the construction of brick or foam concrete pillars. We will build supports of the type that suits us. During the laying of the columns, we will lay the anchor for the future fastening of the lower trim of the frame.

On top of the pillars we will lay roofing material trimmings to protect the wooden frame from rotting. We will assume that the foundation stage has been successfully completed and we will directly deal with the construction of a barn with a pitched roof.

Work algorithm:

• We check how accurately the supporting pillars are built. We put a board flat on a number of pillars and set the spirit level. Identified errors are corrected by installing board trimmings on the tops of the posts. We carry out control actions by placing the board along long and along short rows.
• We lay the base beam on a leveled columnar foundation. If anchors were not laid during the construction of the pillars, we first try on the timber in place and mark the points for drilling holes for fastening to the pillars.
• On top of the timber, we install the frame of the lower trim and fill it inside with ordinary logs.
• On the logs we lay the floor of thick plywood, boards or OSB boards. The floor elements are laid with gaps of 2-3 mm for linear temperature expansion.
• We mount the front wall according to the dimensions. We fix its position with temporary jibs.
• We assemble and install the back and side walls of the frame. If the cutting was done correctly, then the result of the assembly will be an impeccable frame with walls of the same height. Otherwise, you will have to file or build up. For craftsmen who doubt the impeccability of the work, it is advisable to assemble the walls not with a finished frame, but with separate racks, cut with a small margin in length. According to this method, the top of the uprights is fastened with temporary side strapping. And after the construction of all the walls, the excess is sawn off according to the indications of the upper edge of the strapping.
• On top of the ends of the racks, the upper trim is installed in two rows. If a temporary side board was used for leveling, it should be dismantled. The stationary strapping is laid with overlapping of the joints of the underlying row.
• We assemble a cantilever-running frame, from short racks, the top of which is cut down at the required angle to form a slope. We calculate the angle in advance by drawing the roof profile in the form of a regular right triangle on the diagram.
• We make a pattern of rafter legs from the board by attaching the blank to the side of the installation site. Do not forget that the length of the rafter leg must provide the front and rear cornice overhang.
• We cut the rafters, install them directly above the racks, fix them with metal corners.
• We arrange a continuous crate with a waterproofing carpet along the rafters and lay the roofing:, profiled roofing steel, etc.

Upon completion of the frame, we sheathe the shed with siding or any similar material.

Then we build a door jamb, hang the door, locks on it. We close the cantilever frame from the inside with a mesh. If you are thinking about how best to make a roof with one slope on a frame shed with walls of equal height, information about the construction in the described way will be very useful.

Device slope truss trusses

The use of ready-made roof trusses in the formation of a shed roof is fully justified by the convenience and safety of the work. The main actions for the manufacture of truss modules are carried out in calm conditions on solid ground.

You can buy wooden or metal trusses ready-made, they just need to be hoisted onto the roof and fixed. True, the purchase will increase the construction budget somewhat.

Self-construction of roof trusses will save an impressive amount. In addition, an inexperienced master in carpentry, who decides to do the manufacture with his own hands, will be much more comfortable working on the ground.

It is easier to control the accuracy of dimensions and correct shortcomings than to saw off, build up, connect at a height. Thanks to the comfortable conditions of carpentry work, the quality of the structure increases significantly.

The main advantage of using roof trusses in frame construction is that a closed triangular module does not transfer thrust to the walls, which is highly undesirable for load-bearing structures of this type. The thrust is distributed and extinguished inside the roof truss, without transferring the load to the frame of the building.

However, the method is still not ideal. It is used only in the case of arranging small-sized buildings, because. rafter triangles without additional devices have the right to cover spans only up to 7m, with additions in the form of struts and supports up to 24m.

Rafter trusses are installed on frames with walls of equal height. The principle of construction is elementary. According to pre-designed dimensions, wooden modules are made, the configuration resembling right-angled triangles.

The hypotenuse of a triangle is most often a rafter leg, less often it is a supporting element on top of which a rafter is laid. The long leg performs the function of a floor beam. The short leg plays the role of a rack of a kind of cantilever-running frame, made up of the end parts of the truss trusses.

Before making rafter triangles, it is necessary to make a drawing with calculations. The length of the rafter leg should provide cornice overhangs on both sides. If the truss is made for the subsequent fastening of the rafters on top of the hypotenuse, then the triangle is drawn without taking into account the overhangs. Those. the long leg is equal to the width of the equipped box.

The steepness of a shed roof must be carefully considered. The prevailing number of structures with one slope have a slight slope due to the increased wind load on the vertical part of the roof. However, manufacturers of profiled steel roofing, for example, strongly recommend using material for arranging slopes with a slope of at least 25º.

Increasing the angle of inclination to the sizes recommended by manufacturers sometimes brings results that are not very attractive in terms of aesthetic criteria. In addition, the consumption of materials for the construction of the truss system and laying the coating increases. With a decrease in steepness, the consumption of waterproofing increases due to the need to lay a multilayer solid carpet and reinforce problem areas with additional waterproofing strips.

Videos in a "live" form will explain how you can make a pitched roof with your own hands: video instructions will clearly acquaint you with the process of the device.

An ingenious method of building on a foundation of tires:

Common building technology:

Frame shed on concrete slabs:

The construction of a barn with a shed roof using frame technology is a matter that can be safely taken on by the owner, who has not forgotten how to hold a tool in his hands.

There are not too many technological subtleties, but there are still specifics. Without taking into account the peculiarities of the construction, there can be no impeccable result. This should be remembered both when choosing the optimal method of construction, and when implementing the plans.

One of the most sought-after elements of private households or simply summer cottages is nothing more than a barn. Some people prefer to call this building a utility block, however, its essence does not change at all. The function of the described structure is to store a variety of country tools, for example, gardening tools, as well as various products. The design of such a structure is quite simple, and its dimensions can be called modest, because anyone who wishes is able to build a barn with their own hands, as well as making a list of necessary building materials. Meanwhile, it is worth carefully studying the theoretical component of this issue, so as not to subsequently face the negative consequences of one's own incompetence.

The main task is the selection of the optimal material

As you know, more than half of the success in the construction business depends on the choice of material. The operational, technical and aesthetic properties of the product determine not only the complexity of the planned work, but also the scope of the structure itself. In addition, the operational life of the building largely depends on the building material.

Follow the traditions

Despite the fact that suburban housing construction is gaining more and more popularity every year, it is worth noting that people have always tried to acquire at least modest, but charmingly functional real estate outside the city limits. Thus, today a certain tradition has formed in the choice of building materials for such buildings as a barn. So, in the domestic market you will be offered the following options:

• Wood. Well, this decision is fair to call the most simple and common. The structure in this case is built within a couple of days, and you can lay inexpensive slate or even roofing material as a roof.

Create a project

Before proceeding directly to the implementation of construction operations, it is necessary to carefully develop a project for the future building. If the project involves the presence of a foundation, then you will have to contact the relevant authorities to register the building. In this case, it is better to enlist the support of professionals, it can be both design and construction organizations. If you refuse the foundation, then you can safely skip the stage with registration at the BTI and proceed to the development of the drawing. With the help of the finished drawing, you will also be able to easily calculate how many materials you will need to bring the project to life.
A well-designed drawing is the key to your success

Remember that the calculations are carried out mainly on an individual basis. However, for convenience, you can take the standard parameters: 3x3, 3x4, 3x6, 5x5 meters.

Not at the expense of functionality

The wide functionality of the premises is what you should strive for when creating a building project. Of course, the number and purpose of the rooms varies depending on the function of the barn itself. However, as a rule, such buildings have a certain set of zones for such purposes:

• workshop, storage room for tools;
• warehouse for construction and gardening supplies;
• a special room in which to mono place a trailer, walk-behind tractor and similar equipment;
• summer bath or additional shower;
• a room that contains firewood, hoses and other items.

For many things that we keep in the summer cottage, a dry and safe place is necessary. Otherwise, the storage process will quickly reduce the performance of fixtures or products to zero, which, in turn, will entail unnecessary financial costs.

Making a list of materials and tools

In this case, everything depends largely on the functional purpose of the hozblok. However, even if you plan to create the most ordinary woodcutter with your own hands, then you will need a standard set of fixtures:

• a screwdriver or its automated analogue - a screwdriver;
• drill;
• roulette;
• construction plumb;
• several hammers of different sizes;
• a shovel to dig a pit if you are pouring a foundation;
• hydraulic level.

If the scheme of your hozblok is designed to use corrugated board as the main building material, then you also need to acquire, in addition to the corrugated board itself, profile pipes that will become the source for the building frame.

Main stages of work

So, it's no secret to anyone that with a careful and competent breakdown of the entire process of erecting an architectural and functional structure at certain stages, a much better result can be achieved. Since the price factor is one of the main ones when choosing a building material for a structure, we can, as an example, consider the technology of erecting a utility block from a metal profile. You have to carry out the following types of work:

• Foundation pouring. The most popular solution in this matter is a strip foundation with a slight depth. It will be enough to dig a pit, the depth of which will be about three meters.
• In the process of preparing the pit, in parallel, you should dig a trench of small depth, 30 centimeters is enough. Reinforcement bars are placed in the trench, which are subsequently poured with concrete mortar.
• Creation of the construction floor. Here you can save money and lay a beam on a belt of reinforced beams, and lay wooden flooring on top. If there is no need for special savings, then install factory slabs, install formwork elements and high-quality reinforced concrete floors.
• Frame installation. As a building material, you can take a tree or pipes from a profile. First install the bottom trim, then mount the first layer of the selected product. Fasten the parts with anchor bolts.

• Installation of the main building material. If you want to make your shed “for centuries”, then at this stage it is worth contacting specialists who will help you install the product sheets in the best way.
• Floor filling. The most commonly used cement mortar. It is also possible with wood laying for a more aesthetic interior.
• Remember to install windows and doors in the proper places before installing the roof.
• The final stage is laying.

The last stage of work is laying the roof from the material of your choice

If you doubt your own abilities, ask for advice from more experienced workers. They will be happy to help you not only with the development of a structure diagram, but also with the subsequent stages of preparation, as well as directly with the implementation of the plan in practice.

A change house, a barn, an economic unit is the first thing that any person needs when developing a site.

It is not surprising that with the beginning of the new construction season among the users of our portal, interest in topics dedicated to the construction of "sheds" with their own hands has increased throughout the space from Moscow to the outskirts. As practice shows, it is possible to make a good change house in the country, even without building experience, and the acquired knowledge can later be used in the construction of a large or other building.

The user admits that such a foundation is redundant for a change house. But, because there is a height difference and a slope on the site, the height of the rear pillars turned out to be 40 cm, while the front ones are almost flush with the ground.

To form square pillars above the ground, formwork was made from boards 15x1.5 cm. The boards were fastened to each other using self-tapping screws, 2 pcs each. to one edge. This is done to make it easier to remove the collapsible formwork from the pillars. In the future, the same finished formwork Pankrat1975 plans to use in the construction of change houses on his site.

The foundation was poured. For strength, a reinforcing cage welded from three "tens" rods 1.2 meters long was inserted into each drilled pit.

After the concrete had hardened over the entire area of ​​the foundation, the formwork was removed from the pillars, and using a simple bubble and laser level, the level of the top of the pillars was checked. The discrepancy did not exceed 3 mm.

It's time for the next stage - to make a harness for a change house.

Pankrat1975

While the concrete was setting, I went to the local construction market, studied prices and bought boards.

A beam 150x150 mm 6 meters long went to the strapping, and a beam 100x50 went to the frame racks. The user recorded all expenses in detail, which helped to keep track of funds.

The strapping beam was sawn at the ends of the groove into the groove and secured to each other with the help of reinforced corners and self-tapping screws. For greater strength, holes were drilled at the joints of the timber for wooden chopsticks made from mop cuttings.

Pankrat1975

He connected the middle beams in the same way as the corner ones, groove to groove, fastening to the corners for self-tapping screws, crackers and choppers. I think we overdid it with the amount of fasteners. Brother joked that hozblok d must turn out not wooden, but metal.

The strapping lintels were made from two pieces of timber, which also connected the groove into the groove and secured them with long self-tapping screws. To reinforce the node from above, having previously selected 2 mm of wood, a metal toothed plate (MZP) was nailed.

Under the timber, on each pillar, Pankrat1975 laid roofing material folded several times, smearing each layer with diluted mastic. To protect against decay, the timber, like all purchased boards, was “heartily” impregnated with an antiseptic composition.

After making the strapping, the floor was laid on it. A 100x50 mm board went for this.

Then it's time to assemble the frame. Assembly started from the back wall. So that after lifting the wall would not fall, it was temporarily fixed with slab cuts.

The walls were assembled on a "platform", attaching the racks to reinforced corners, screwed onto self-tapping screws.

To connect the frame elements, it is better not to use the so-called. "black", hardened self-tapping screws. Due to their fragility, it is worth slightly increasing the moment of twisting force on the screwdriver, and the cap flies off at the self-tapping screw.

Also, “black” (phosphated, oxidized) self-tapping screws cannot withstand shock loads and shear work. If you use self-tapping screws when assembling the frame, then yellow (galvanized).

The “correct” frame is assembled on nails, without the use of self-tapping screws and metal corners, because. fasteners in the frame work for displacement / shear (for which nails are suitable), and self-tapping screws work better for separation.

The cuttings of the boards went to the jibs.

If rigid board material is used for sheathing the frame - plywood or OSB sheets, then jibs are not required.

Having raised four walls, the brothers began to make the roof, for which they installed rafters. A 15x2.5 cm board went to the roof sheathing.