Proper care for raspberries in the fall - pruning, top dressing and preparation for winter. Caring for raspberries after harvesting in autumn Working in raspberries in August

Raspberry care in the summer depends on many parameters. Variety, variety, age, planting site, susceptibility to disease - all this the gardener must take into account in order to enjoy a plentiful and tasty harvest next year.

The most important thing that an inexperienced summer resident has to understand is that caring for remontant raspberries is very different from caring for summer varieties of raspberries. Although these plants are similar in appearance, they have a different development cycle, bear fruit at different times, which means that care for them falls on different months. Therefore, before you feed or cut your bushes, determine what kind of berry is in front of you.

Raspberry ripening time is the best indicator of its kind. If the berries turn red and pour in July, then you have a summer variety. If ripening began in August - early September, then a remontant beauty settled on your site.

Summer raspberries: care, pruning and cultivation

Those who planted summer raspberries in the country have already managed to collect and prepare them for the winter, which means it's time to take care of the bushes. In the second half of summer and early autumn, they need a lot of strength in order to lay flower buds for the next year and accumulate nutrients for wintering. Therefore, caring for raspberries in July and August consists of several equivalent operations at once.

Pruning summer raspberries after picking berries

Many gardeners postpone pruning raspberries until the cold weather, because at the height of the summer season there is always not enough time. However, proper pruning of raspberries is usually done shortly after harvest. And the explanation for this is simple - the bush already has to spend a lot of effort preparing for the winter, so why should it also feed extra shoots.

Prune raspberries before fertilizing.

First of all, remove all weak, diseased or damaged shoots from the bush. Then cut off the lignified shoots that bear fruit this year - there will no longer be berries on them, and by winter they will simply dry out. If too many young, large green branches have grown on the bush, also thin them out, leaving no more than 8-10 per root. It is also desirable to remove small shoots - there will be no harvest on it, and it most likely will not survive the winter.

Cut branches as low as possible, to ground level, and immediately remove them from the site. Healthy ones can be used to create the lower layer of high ridges, and it is better to burn those affected by diseases and pests.

Feeding summer raspberries after picking berries

The answer to the question of how to fertilize raspberries depends on how you solved this situation last year. Usually gardeners prefer organic matter and add manure (5 kg per 1 sq.m.), compost (4-5 kg ​​per 1 sq.m.), peat (5 kg per 1 sq.m.), ash (100 g per bush) under the bushes . However, if last year you already chose organic fertilizers, then this year it is better to give preference to mineral ones.

To do this, under each adult bush, add and close up to a depth of 10-15 cm, 50 g of superphosphate and 40 g of potassium sulfate. But raspberries do not need nitrogen in the second half of the season - from it the bush will begin to grow green mass and produce young shoots that we do not need at all. It is also important to remember that young bushes are not able to "digest" such an amount of nutrients, so the "portions" for them need to be halved.

Watering summer raspberries after picking berries

Do not assume that after harvesting you can forget about watering raspberries. From the watering of raspberries in the summer, especially in the second half, the harvest of the next year directly depends. You can stop moistening the soil only immediately before the onset of frost or in rainy weather.

Prior to this, the bushes are watered once every 7-10 days at the rate of 30-40 liters of water for each adult plant or 15-20 liters for each young bush. The root system of raspberries is superficial, so pour not into the center of the bush, but in a circle at a distance of 30-40 cm from the shoots.

Processing summer raspberries from pests after picking berries

Raspberry bushes and the soil at their foot can become a winter haven for insects, bacteria and fungal spores. Therefore, you need to know how to spray raspberries from pests and diseases.

After harvesting, you can safely choose effective means, for example, a 1% solution of Bordeaux mixture. They spray the bushes in August twice, with an interval of 14 days. It is also important to remove all fallen leaves from under the bushes and mulch the raspberry roots with peat, straw or mowed grass to a height of 10-15 cm, after loosening the soil.

Repair raspberries: care, pruning and cultivation

Remontant raspberry differs from its summer relative in that it is able to bear fruit both on last year's shoots and on this year's shoots. With the right choice of variety and proper care, its fruiting stretches for more than a month.

Pruning remontant raspberries after picking berries

In an effort to get the maximum berries from the bush, many gardeners do not remove the entire ground part of the remontant raspberry in the fall, but leave a few strong shoots. In this case, the berries appear on them at the beginning of summer. However, this pernicious practice leads to the weakening of plants, their infection with diseases and the loss of remontant qualities.

To avoid this mistake for the winter, the entire ground part of the remontant raspberry should be cut off, leaving no branches or even stumps. It is better not to delay pruning until spring - pests, fungal spores and bacteria winter well in raspberry thickets.

Want to experiment with getting two crops? Then, during the autumn pruning (in November), leave 5-6 strong shoots on each bush, shorten them by a third and cover them for the winter, bending down to the winter. In the spring, check how they overwintered, remove the frozen or rotten ones, and leave the rest and clear the small growth of raspberries in a timely manner so that the bushes do not thicken.

Top dressing remontant raspberries after picking berries

Unlike summer raspberries, remontant raspberries do not tolerate autumn feeding with organic matter. The fact is that organic fertilizers, as a rule, contain a lot of nitrogen, and the bushes no longer have time to process it in the fall.

Therefore, give preference to nitrogen-free mineral complexes that are sold marked "Autumn" and add 50-60 g to the holes around the bush.

Watering remontant raspberries after picking berries

For a high yield, remontant raspberries need an abundance of moisture throughout the season. It should be watered at least once a week, while wetting the soil to a depth of 30-40 cm. After picking berries, which often ends in cold weather, the number of waterings can be reduced. However, a couple of weeks before the onset of frost, it is necessary to shed the plantings abundantly, then loosen the ground around them and mulch with straw, peat, hay, sawdust or other material.

Processing remontant raspberries from pests after picking berries

As you understand, after picking berries from the remontant raspberry, the entire aerial part of the bush is removed, and therefore there is nothing special to process from pests. However, this does not mean that this step can be skipped completely.

The fact is that insects and bacteria can stay in the topsoil for the winter, and get out into the sun in the spring to harm your plantings again. Therefore, before the onset of cold weather, remove all plant debris from under the bushes, burn the cut raspberry branches, and loosen the top layer of soil and treat with Aktellik, Inta-Vir or Fufanon according to the instructions. If your raspberry is characterized by the dominance of moss and lichen, pour the soil with a 1% solution of copper or iron sulfate.

Raspberry is a berry crop that is in line with such plants as gooseberries, black and colored currants, honeysuckle, garden strawberries, and for some time now irga has also entered their company. Raspberries are tasty, and most importantly - healthy. As soon as we feel unwell, the first remedy is tea with raspberries, warm socks, a blanket and healthy sleep: in the morning, the illness “takes away like a hand”. But, it turns out, not everything is so simple. In order for raspberries to please with harvests, it is necessary not only to carry out work with it from time to time, but to perform quite conscious operations, and even depending on the month of the year.

Monthly raspberry care calendar. Valleyfield Fruit Farm

Raspberry care in April

In April, we usually prepare the soil for laying raspberries - we carefully dig a shovel onto a full bayonet, add a bucket of humus per square meter and a tablespoon of nitroammophoska to the same area. Of course, we remove all weeds.

When everything is ready, we proceed to planting: we dig holes, between which we leave 0.5 meters and make them 12 centimeters deep, then we place the roots of raspberry seedlings and cover them with soil - it's done. It remains to water the seedling, compact the soil well and sprinkle with humus a couple of centimeters in a layer. Ideally, the roots of a raspberry seedling after planting should be immersed in the ground so that the buds located on the rhizome of the seedling are at a depth of about three centimeters.

Within a month, inspect raspberry seedlings - those that have signs of fungal diseases, treat with fungicides, if the stem is very long, then it is quite possible to shorten it to a height of 50 centimeters.

Soil near newly planted plants or those that are already growing there, simply cover with humus a layer of a couple of centimeters, and remove weeds from free areas with a hoe or manually.

In April, you can carry out the first feeding of raspberries. To do this, dilute urea in an amount of 15 g in a bucket of water and pour over each square meter of soil.

Raspberry care in May

May is already a hotter month, but during this calendar period, very serious night frosts can occur, which sometimes spoil raspberry flowers, leaving summer residents without part of the crop. To avoid this, it is necessary, by agreement with the neighbors, to make smoky fires around the periphery of the site, for example, from not very dry straw, and be sure to monitor them until the smoke stops flowing, given that the wind can fan the fire and it will spread to neighboring area.

In May, if your raspberry plantation is not very old, you can immediately after the complete thawing of the soil and the possibility of working with it, put special pegs to which you can very easily tie raspberry shoots so that they do not lean to the ground under the weight of the crop and leaf mass.

Usually, it is appropriate to tie up precisely those raspberry shoots that will bear fruit in the current season to the pegs. As a rule, there are not very many such shoots, usually two, less often three, however, each shoot, correctly tied to a peg, can produce up to 500 g of a crop of delicious berries.

May is the optimal time for frequent weeding, loosening the soil, watering at least once a week, pouring a bucket of water per square meter of plantation, as well as mulching the soil with humus.

In May, you can also carry out a couple of treatments against pests - with insecticides, and against diseases - with fungicides, the main thing at the same time is to complete all treatments before the raspberries start flowering, otherwise such treatments can harm flowering.

In more northern regions, where the snow has only partially melted, it is possible to help the lashes free themselves from ice captivity, otherwise, in combination with relatively warm weather and high humidity, shoots and even buds may begin to rot.

After all the raspberry shoots are devoid of snow, inspect them carefully, at this time it will be clearly visible on which shoots there is absolutely no damage, and which can be broken, have signs of infection with a fungal infection, and so on. Broken shoots must be removed, and on which a fungal infection is noticed, you can try to treat it with a fungicide, strictly following the instructions on the package.

Inspect the raspberry bush for the number of shoots, for example, if there are about one and a half dozen shoots, then you should not be greedy, because they will only compete with each other - just choose five or six of the most well-developed shoots per square meter, and remove the rest - the month of May has it. It is desirable to cut off all the left shoots to the very first fully developed kidney.

If, after inspecting the site, you are convinced that there are quite a few raspberry shoots, then you can leave the vast majority of them, and if they were also broken, then cut them off to the point of fracture.

Inspect the raspberry shoots for freezing: you noticed frozen tips - feel free to remove them.

Often, raspberry lovers take and cut absolutely all the shoots to a height of about one and a half meters, it’s better not to do this, because you will corny lose more than half of the crop.

Those raspberry stalks that we left, as we said above, just tie them to the posts, fixing them at a height of one and a half meters, by the way, if the tip of the shoot is longer than the post, then you can simply bend it.

After the garter is finished, all raspberry plants must be treated with 2% nitrafen, this well inhibits the development of a fungal infection.

What else are we doing in May? We re-fertilize and again you can use nitroammofoska, it will be enough for 15 g per square meter, also previously diluted in water.

Next, take a closer look at the site, is it subject to soil erosion as a result of exposure to rain or irrigation water? If this is the case, then while the soil is soft and pliable, all storm drains should be built or cleared.

Toward the end of May, you can weed the soil in the raspberries a couple more times, combining this with both the removal of the weeds themselves and the cutting of young shoots if there are more than a dozen of them in a bush or more than three dozen per square meter.

In May, be sure to carry out another treatment before flowering. Insecticides are used to control raspberry pests, and fungicides are used to control raspberry diseases.

Raspberry care in June

In June, probably, the least worries in the raspberries. The main thing is to maintain optimal soil moisture by pouring a bucket of water on each square meter of raspberries once a week, fight weeds, prevent the formation of a soil crust, periodically loosening the soil.

Raspberry care in July

In July, moisture is extremely important for raspberries, so the irrigation rate can be safely doubled, but you should also be guided by the weather: if it rains, it is better to loosen the soil more often, and not fill it even more.

Of course, weed control is important, and if it is dry, then after removing the weeds and watering, it is necessary to mulch the soil with a layer of humus a couple of centimeters.

July is, of course, harvest time. Here you need to be careful - decide for yourself what you will use raspberries for, for example, if they are consumed fresh, then they need to be harvested quite ripe, but if you are going to transport the berries, then it is better to pick them early, when they are still soft.

Tip - raspberries are better transported if they have lain in a regular refrigerator for a couple of hours.

So that the raspberries do not wrinkle, put them in a container no more than four layers.

Raspberry care in August

As soon as you collect all the fruits from the raspberry shoots, the latter can be safely cut out, they have already served their purpose, that is, they gave us their harvest. At the same time, you should not throw cut shoots directly onto the plantations, as many do - they need to be removed from the site and burned outside.

From about the first decade of August, the soil that you pretty much trampled down, harvesting, needs to be loosened and put in order. The best tool is a good old hoe, at the same time you can exterminate weeds and improve the air and water balance of the soil.

Toward the end of August, when there are no more berries at all, raspberry plants again need to be treated for diseases and pests. By the way, if you don’t want to use chemistry, there is one killer folk recipe - take a barrel, put five kilograms of tomato tops, peppers and nettles, a kilogram of tops with potato flowers, a handful of pharmacy chamomile, wormwood, pine needles, a head of finely crushed garlic and 250 g of onion peel and let all this brew in a 200 liter barrel for three days, stirring occasionally. Next, dilute the infusion with water and process the plants until snow falls - the result is excellent.

As soon as you collect all the fruits from the shoots, the latter can be safely cut out. © Gardening Know How

Raspberry care in September

This month, you can start planting new and interesting varieties of raspberries. Moreover, if you could not find the variety that you fell in love with, then you can ask your neighbor for a root cutting of this variety - September disposes to propagate raspberries in this way. The main thing is that the root segment should be the size of a simple pencil and have roots, otherwise it will not take root.

Such cuttings can be planted in small holes, deepening by five centimeters. In the future, the main thing is to water them, and for the winter it is better to shower them with spruce paws.

Raspberry Care in October

It's time to bend down the raspberry shoots for the winter, it's not worth the risk, it's not known what kind of winter lies ahead. In addition, the beginning of October is also a convenient period in the sense that the shoots are now flexible, pliable, they are much easier to bend without breaking. In order not to bother yourself, you can not cut off the leaves - nothing bad will happen, on the contrary, they will be an additional insulation.

If you have highly winter-hardy raspberry varieties and are 100% sure of them, anyway, at the very end of October, we advise you to tie the bushes to one large stake, covering them with non-woven material - the cost is minimal, but the probability of your varieties being preserved from frost is maximum.

Near the plants, you can spread humus with a layer of 6-9 cm, it will additionally insulate the roots - this should be done at the very end of the month.

Raspberry care in November and December

In these already, one might say, winter months, you need to try to keep the snow to the maximum, trample it down, lay dead wood, spruce paws - in spring water will definitely come in handy.

Conclusion. We have given a simple calendar for caring for raspberries throughout the year. Of course, something depends on the region where you live, on the characteristics of the variety, on the type of soil, and so on. But in general, these tips are relevant for most regions and should not be ignored.

Most people are convinced that raspberry unpretentious plant, but any gardener knows perfectly well how the lack of attention to her "majesty" affects the crop.

Anyone who wants to savor sweet berries must arm themselves with the necessary knowledge and desire to provide raspberries with the necessary care.

Good care for raspberries in August and September: pruning, pruning, fertilizer and more

List of necessary actions for raspberries is as follows:

• fertilizer;
• pest removal;
• pruning and trimming;
• bush growth control;
• mulching;
• garter and bending.

It is difficult to say which care is a priority, all of the above is important.

Fertilizer needed so that the root of the plant receives the necessary minerals and nutrients, without which it will not be able to fully develop. Thanks to top dressing, raspberry stalks will be able to thicken and fill with fructose, helping to survive frosts.

Removal of harmful insects, fungi and other ill-wishers is done by pruning, because most of them are settled on the tops of plants.

If you do not get rid of pests, the plant may die or become weak, infertile. They also carry out spraying in order to surely destroy the enemies.

Pruning needed not only to remove pests, but also to clean old raspberry shoots. Old-timers will slow down the development of the plant, will not give the desired harvest, because the ability to give birth is greatly reduced in two-year-old branches.

With the help of pruning, the height of the plant is regulated, on which the saturation of the branches with nutrients depends. Depending on the variety, the height varies between 1.2–1.7 m.

Growth control needed for a tasty harvest. Raspberries grow at a fast pace and if you do not follow this, then in a year a neat row will turn into abandoned thickets.

In close proximity, young berries do not receive the necessary sunlight, ripen slowly and sour as a result. The ideal distance between bushes is 60-70 cm, and in rows - 1.5 m.

Mulching is carried out by covering the earth with straw, sawdust, foliage, peat, chopped tree bark or special purchased material.

This layer will help to effectively fight weeds, save moisture in the soil, and improve the water-air regime.

The garter and the bend represent two stages of the same action.- prepare and save the bushes from frost and winter drafts. Their essence is to tie the stems of the bushes together and bend them to the ground, which is the best heater.

How to properly care for raspberries after harvest

We have barely had time to enjoy the harvest of this season, when we immediately need to think about the next one. Care for raspberries after picking berries in August means:

• pruning shoots and dried branches;
• soil loosening;
• top dressing with fertilizers;
• tying bushes.

The first thing to do after collecting the last berries is cut branches where they grew. All the same, young shoots will actively produce next summer.

For this manipulation, it is better to choose pruners with long handles, thanks to which you can reach the depths of the bush. Cut branches are thrown away or burned in an iron container.

Raspberry ash is used as a top dressing for future generations.

You need to prune not only old shoots, but also diseased branches. A properly pruned plant should have 6-7 young shoots.

If necessary, you need thin out the bushes, giving the raspberries a well-groomed appearance. This will not only give aesthetic beauty, but also allow the plant to breathe better.

Now it's time for a light loosening of the soil. The raspberry root is shallow, so it is forbidden to do a thorough digging with a shovel.

The ideal option would be surface loosening with small forks. After this action, the roots will receive more oxygen, the growth of weeds will decrease.

Loosened earth is an excellent basis for fertilizer. Suitable phosphorus or potassium, which is scattered around the circumference of the bushes. For each bush use 1 tbsp. l. fertilizers.

To prevent the occurrence of fungal diseases it does not hurt to spray the raspberry with an insecticide solution, for example, 1% Bordeaux liquid.

Those who want to fertilize raspberries with liquid organic matter or nitrogen should leave their thoughts until spring, in winter they will not be useful. Nitrogen fertilizers are applied maximum until mid-September.

A garter remains at the finish line, which lies in the fact that a strong wind and snowdrifts do not break the branches of the bushes.

It is necessary to build a support, for example, it can be a lattice fence, and in several places tie each bush to it. Thanks to the garter, the plants will gain additional strength.

Such simple actions will help raspberries to winter, and indulge in delicious berries in the summer.

Autumn processing scheme

Autumn processing of raspberries is not much different from post-harvest care. Basically, all varieties of raspberries finish fruiting in the fall, after which processing begins: pruning, thinning, loosening, fertilizing, tying.

If you ignore these actions, then even remontant varieties will lose the ability to give birth twice.

To the previously described care should be added:

• topping;
• treatment of plants from pests.

Pinching is done to form bushes and accelerate the maturation of annual shoots that contribute to yield.

Thanks to this agricultural technique, the growth of preserved uncircumcised branches is enhanced, buds are awakened, contributing to the growth of lateral branches.

It is worth pinching only tall raspberry varieties that are not prone to branching, but stunted plants do not need this technique.

So that pinching does not harm raspberries, it is done from the second year after planting a healthy, strong seedling. For pinching, two tops of young shoots 7–10 cm long are connected together.

In addition to cleaning the territory, digging and thinning, you should take care of the destruction of dangerous insects or make prevention. If there are infected leaves and branches, they should be cut off and burned.

To combat diseases or pests, the following means are used:

1. Fufanon- spraying solution, prepared in the proportion of 10 ml of insecticide per 10 liters of water. Consumption - 1–1.250 liters per bush.
2. Actellik- ampoules, 1 ampoule is used for 2 liters of water. For 1 bush, use 1.5 liters of the finished solution.
3. Intavir- pills. Before processing, dilute 1 tablet in a bucket of water.
4. Iron/copper sulfate help to defeat moss, lichen. The solution is poured over the ground near the bushes.

A separate item is the shelter of the raspberry from the harsh winter.

How can you prepare the bushes for shelter

The wintering of raspberry bushes includes the following preparation measures:

• mulching;
• tying;
• shelter;
• snow retention.

In mid-October, mulch covers the ground by an average of 15 cm, this will help the root system retain heat and the necessary moisture.

In addition, when it begins to decompose, it will perform the function of organic materials, contributing to the growth of the root system, rich fruiting.

The main purpose of mulch is to keep young shoots from growing in winter so that they do not die. For mulching plants, one of many materials is used: manure, peat, sawdust, hay, needles, grass clippings, or chopped branches.

You need to tie up the branches of the plant so that they do not break under the weight of snow. As a support, different materials and structures are used, for example, ordinary wooden posts, and stretch a wire between them.

The lower wire must withstand a distance from the ground of -18–21 cm. You need to do this in the fall before frost so that the stems do not stiffen and can bend.

Bushes are tied up in several places, bending the branches in an arc, using a strong cord or nylon thread.

raspberry shelter relevant for gardeners living in particularly cold harsh regions, with insufficient snowfall. This is done at the last moment after bending down the plants.

To provide additional warmth, stretch a spandbond or lutarsil over the bushes, then press it down with something heavy along the edges so that it does not blow away with the wind.

As an option, you can build a protective structure made of polycarbonate, which bends.

Snow retention is measures taken to accumulate snow in regions where it is scarce in winter. For raspberries, the snow level should not exceed 100 cm.

Melted snow water is of great importance for the earth and the plants themselves, which is why it is so important to delay the moment of its separation.

To accomplish this, it is necessary in February, at a temperature of about 0 degrees, build heaps of snow and cover them with a shield or use different items for the "living" hedge.

How to do bending down - the necessary stage of preparation for winter

It is advisable to bend down all varieties, even frost-resistant, because in reality many of them do not survive winters. Bending down is done so that the bushes are completely covered with snow and not frozen, and also to protect them from drafts.

The easiest way, which is used in mid-October:

1. Carefully trim the top of the branches and leaves.
2. Slowly, so as not to damage the plant, wind the bushes into a heap with a thick rope.
3. Attach a weight to the other end and place it on the ground.

The plant immediately leans to the ground. If everything is correct, then the bushes will be bowed in an arc in one direction.

As a second method you can offer to tie the branches together, and then tie them to the wire on the support.

Raspberries should not lie on the ground, the distance between it and the soil is an average of 20 cm.

How to prune and prune in autumn

Pruning is carried out in late autumn before the first frosts. There are different types of pruning, but the two most commonly used are:

• shortening;
• normal pruning.

Pruning involves removing the tops of the plants, suitable for ordinary varieties. With standard pruning, 60–70% of the stem is removed, and if this is the case with a remontant variety, it can be shortened almost to the ground.

The main thing is that the vegetative power of raspberries is high, and then it quickly grows. When pruning varieties of ordinary and standard raspberries with secateurs, two-year-old shoots are completely removed.

Caring for raspberries in the fall is not as laborious and difficult as it might seem. Of course, you need to work a little, but by the summer, fatigue will be forgotten, and a rich harvest of ripe sweet berries will delight.

The main thing is not to forget to quickly remove possible shelters in the spring so that the branches can level out and develop freely.

If protective covers are not removed, the soil will suffer from a lack of oxygen, ventilation, and will also be susceptible to fungal infections and dampness.

In order for raspberry bushes to please you with a bountiful harvest for the next year, you need to take care of this in advance, at the end of the season. At the end of summer, after harvesting raspberries, I prune and nourish the bushes, preparing them for winter. I'll tell you how to do it.

Planting thinning

Immediately after harvesting raspberries, the bushes must be thinned out. Use a pruner with long handles. With it, you will reach the most remote corners of the landing, and will not be scratched by branches. Fruiting and old shoots are cut, cut near the ground, leaving no stumps. Remove those shoots that show signs of disease or insect activity. Leave no more than six young shoots per bush. Updated bushes will enjoy the autumn sun to their heart's content and take maximum nutrients from the ground. Immediately after thinning - water the plantings abundantly. For each bush there is at least one bucket of water.

Raspberry dressing

Caring for raspberries in August also includes fertilizing the ground. So that the fertilizer is evenly distributed, first loosen the soil with a small spatula. I do not advise using a large shovel; in raspberries, the root system is close to the surface of the earth. When choosing top dressing, remember that nitrogen contributes to the flowering and greening of the plant. Therefore, nitrogen fertilizers will be postponed until spring. In August, we feed the earth with phosphorus and potassium. Sprinkle one tablespoon of superphosphate and potassium salt evenly around each raspberry bush. To prevent raspberry diseases for the next year, spray the bushes with a 1% solution of Bordeaux mixture.

Preparing raspberries for winter

According to its characteristics, raspberry is not a winter-hardy plant. In order for the plantings to safely survive the cold and not freeze, they must be covered with snow. If the bushes are not prepared in advance, the branches will break under the weight of the snow cover. I'll tell you how to avoid it. After thinning the bushes, we untie the remaining shoots from the trellises. We tie the branches of neighboring plants together with twine or a strong ribbon. Another reliable way is to bend neighboring bushes to the ground in the direction of each other, tie the shoots together. Thus, a fence is formed from the bushes, on which snow will fall.

To protect raspberries from freezing and wind blowing, wooden shields are installed in front of the bushes on the leeward side. If you follow these simple rules, raspberry wintering will be easy, next year's crop will not suffer.

Caring for raspberries in the fall after harvesting is not difficult even for a novice gardener. It is important to follow all the rules in a timely manner, then next year your plantation will delight you with a bountiful harvest of delicious berries!

Timely care for raspberries in August is necessary, regardless of the variety of this crop. For remontant plants, it is just the time to return the harvest, and they require increased attention. Even bushes with one-time fruiting cannot be left unattended; here it is necessary to do pruning, top dressing and other important activities.

How to care for raspberries in August?

The main operations on raspberries in August:

• pruning the most thorough sick and old shoots;
• weed removal;
• correct berry;
• garter of young branches;
• watering;
• pinching;
• spraying shrubs with protective agents.

Wanting to get strong bushes of a berry plant by autumn, raspberry care in August can be combined with the laying of a new site, which is carried out at the end of summer or on warm September days. It is required to take into account weather conditions - landing in extreme heat can bring negative consequences. Trying to save seedlings from drying out, choose relatively cool or cloudy days for work, use shading materials on the beds.

Transplanting raspberries in the summer is carried out as follows:

How to prune raspberries in August?

If you have a responsible one in August, then take care in advance to find a strong and high-quality secateurs in stores. For thinning powerful standard plants, it is better to purchase a saw with small but sharp teeth. The process itself is carried out according to the following simple technology:

1. Tied up last year's or diseased shoots are freed from delays or twine.
2. Two-year-old shoots are cut out near the ground itself, so that the stump is of the minimum size.
3. Caring for homemade raspberries in August involves cutting out twisted and diseased shoots.
4. The growth of the current year requires normalization - we leave up to 10 shoots with a thickness of 1 cm per linear meter.
5. Plants older than five years of age, infected with diseases, it is better to cut and dig out completely in care.

Pinching is a useful care measure, but this technique must be carried out correctly. It is recommended to produce it on tall varieties that do not branch well on their own. It is better to perform the operation at the height of the upper wire - 80 cm-120 cm, removing up to 10 cm of growth. Raspberries form a powerful "bouquet" with numerous side shoots by autumn. For Ukraine and the south of Russia, the optimal time for tweezing is May-June, in the northern regions - the end of June. Pinching raspberries in August only slows down development, reducing the winter hardiness of the plant, and will not bring the desired effect.

The most important point in caring for a fruit-bearing berry is feeding raspberries in August. Starting this operation, preparatory actions should be carried out so that the nutrients in the garden get to their intended purpose. We loosen the soil and weed weeds, but it is forbidden to loosen the ground deeper than 10 cm on the raspberry tree so that the roots are not damaged. After pruning, we begin to feed, choosing the most effective tool:

The close occurrence of raspberry roots in the soil suggests rare but plentiful watering in care. It is advisable to use settled liquid or collected after rains. With normal soil moisture, the root system will gradually grow into deep layers and will suffer less during drought. The best option is to water raspberries in August using, but on a small berry garden, manual water supply to the furrows will also suit. The depth of the grooves is up to 15 cm, the distance from the plantations is 40 cm. From the end of August, we reduce watering so that the shoots ripen normally by winter.