Do-it-yourself frame house part 2. Do-it-yourself frame houses and step-by-step instructions. Preparation and marking of the site for the construction of a frame house with your own hands

A warm and inexpensive house that can be built in one season is the dream of any owner. It is these requirements that frame housing construction meets. The light weight of all structural elements allows you to do without the involvement of lifting and other special equipment, and modern thermal insulation materials make frame houses livable even in harsh northern winters. But it is not enough to know how to build a frame house, it is necessary to comply with all the requirements of the technology and take into account the phased features of the construction of the structure.

Finished frame house

Basic rules for frame construction

So that the end result of the construction does not disappoint, before construction, you need to familiarize yourself with simple rules:

• The main criterion when choosing lumber is quality. It is better to give preference to glued beams than to natural drying wood, which can crack when dried out. A good option would be technical drying of the timber, which minimizes the amount of moisture in the tree.
• Entrust the work to professionals. Building a house in which you will live is not the most suitable platform for experiments, if something is done wrong, then at best it will lead to uncomfortable living conditions, and at worst - to emergency situations. And this is not even taking into account the fact that construction is not only the erection of walls, but also a lot of narrow-profile types of work: wiring communications (sewerage, electricity, heating), roofing at height and much more.

A professional team builds a frame house in a short time

• Every little thing matters. Trying to save on fasteners, insulation or wood impregnations can be expensive. Poor-quality, but cheap insulation can release harmful substances that are hazardous to health. Unreliable fastening of the elements can lead to a violation of the integrity of the frame.

The technology for building a frame house is a phased work, which in itself will help save budget funds. Therefore, you should not save on building materials.

Site selection

Two groups of factors that influence the place of the future home are recommendatory and binding.

The latter include:

• Fire regulations. They regulate the rules for the location of buildings depending on the fire hazard. For example, the distance between buildings made of non-combustible materials is at least 6 meters, for wood and other combustible materials - 12 m.
• Sanitary standards. They regulate the distance from the house to outbuildings, power lines, trees and other things.

Choosing the right location for your home requires many factors to consider.

• Horizon Orientation. Exit windows to the south or east will maximize natural light.
• Accounting for prevailing winds. Do not arrange additional windows and doors on the leeward side.
• Distance to the road. The greater the distance to the road, the quieter it will be in the house, but will increase the access road.
• Appearance from the window. The location of windows overlooking the garden is preferable than the courtyard of the estate and outbuildings.

To comply with all norms and choose the most suitable place, you must contact the design organization.

The foundation for the house - the basis of the basics

A strong foundation is the key to a strong and durable home. For frame buildings, a foundation of one of the types is usually erected:

• shallow-depth tape;
• pile-screw.

In the first case, earthworks will be carried out first, so that there is a place to fill the foundation, then formwork is made and a reinforcing frame is laid out in it.

The second stage is pouring concrete. It is technologically correct to do this in one go, but sometimes layered pouring is also allowed. As the formwork hardens, it is removed - the foundation must gain strength within 30 days. After that, waterproofing work is carried out, and assembly begins bottom strapping.

Scheme of a strip foundation for a frame house

The pile foundation, in turn, is considered one of the most budgetary and prefabricated.

The pile is a thick metal pipe, the end of which is equipped with a helical blade. They are twisted into the ground with the involvement of special equipment. There are some types of driven piles, but they are rarely used.

Video description

The advantages and disadvantages of screw piles can be found in the video:

Piles are an innovative method of foundation installation that has recently appeared on the domestic market. Therefore, while he enjoys the distrust of consumers. However, proper installation in compliance with all requirements will ensure the reliability of construction and a long service life.

Bottom harness and floor

To protect the strapping from moisture from below, a roofing material or hydroisol is laid on the foundation. You can use bituminous mastic, but it will be more expensive than rolled material. Sometimes materials are combined: once the foundation is covered with mastic, and waterproofing is laid on top.

The assembly of a frame house begins with strapping. For it, boards with a section of 15x5 cm or a beam of 15x10 cm are used. The boards are laid around the perimeter and aligned along the outer edge of the foundation. AT right places holes for studs are drilled. The second layer of boards is laid in such a way as to cover the bottom joints of the boards. This gives the structure additional strength. It is easier and faster to install timber, but its price is higher than boards. In addition, the total bearing capacity of a double board will be higher than that of a single beam.

This is what fixed lags look like

A 15x5 cm board is installed on the harness on the edge. It is also aligned with the outer edge of the foundation and fastened with ordinary nails. Logs are mounted from boards of the same section. Fastened with nails or special corners. Installation step - 40–60 cm.

Important! The longer the lag, the smaller the step. This will ensure even weight distribution and eliminate sagging.

The next step is warming. The easiest option is foam. It is easily cut with a hacksaw and fits snugly to size between joists. This will eliminate the installation of a subfloor from below, which will hold the insulation.

To support the insulation, you need to fill two 5x5 cm bars along the lag. Two layers are laid in a run - the top layer overlaps the seams of the bottom. Joints and seams with lags are treated with sealant.

Joints with lags must be sealed with sealing materials

Important! Styrofoam refers to combustible materials, which makes it undesirable for the insulation of wooden structures. Therefore, most often, sheets of stone wool, polystyrene foam are used for thermal insulation of the floor.

For the construction of the subfloor, a 10x2.5 cm edged board is used. Plywood 0.5–0.6 cm thick is laid on top of it. Plywood sheets can be laid immediately without flooring from the boards. In this case, the thickness of the sheets should be at least 1.5 cm. This option is faster, but in some cases more expensive. Like brickwork, plywood is stacked. A gap of several centimeters between the sheets compensates for the expansion with increasing humidity.

On our website you can get acquainted with the most popular projects of frame houses from construction companies presented at the exhibition of houses "Low-Rise Country".

A strong frame is the key to a strong home

There are two schemes for building a frame house:

• construction of a wall on the floor and its subsequent installation in a vertical position;
• assembly of all elements at once on the spot.

The first method is usually used in factories for the production of modules for frame-panel houses. In some cases, assembly on the floor is easier than on site, but the resulting structure will be quite heavy, so it will take several people to lift and install it.

Installation of an already assembled wall

Even one person can collect elements vertically at once. This method is slower, but it will help to avoid inaccuracies in size - the parts are assembled "in place".

For one-story buildings, corner posts are selected with a section of 10x10 cm. If another residential floor is planned, then the dimensions increase to 15x15 cm.

Intermediate racks should be in depth, as well as at the corners, and at least 5 cm wide.

To calculate the pitch, there are special formulas that take into account the load on the structure. But in practice, most often the step between the racks depends on the width of the insulation. The distance between them should be a few centimeters less than the insulation. This will ensure a snug fit to the racks and retain heat.

Racks are most often fastened with the help of metal corners - on each side in a corner. It is possible to mount with a notch in the bottom strapping board, but this may violate the integrity of the entire structure.

Another old way is dowel fastening.

Scheme of fastening the rack with a dowel

On our website you can find contacts of construction companies that offer the service of designing frame houses. You can directly communicate with representatives by visiting the exhibition of houses "Low-Rise Country".

A hole is drilled diagonally through the rack to the middle of the lower boards or timber - a wooden pin is hammered into it. This provides a secure fastening, but this method is difficult to perform. In addition, if the material is wet, the dowel may dry out and lose stiffness.

Depending on the type of outer skin, permanent or temporary cuttings are made. If the outer part is sheathed with sheet material with sufficient strength, it will add additional rigidity to the structure and constant mowing will not be required.

If the exterior finish is hard, this option for mounting the slopes is possible

If the finishing material is type-setting - siding or lining, then permanent mowing will be required.

The best option would be to install four small cuts on each rack - two on top, two on the bottom.

Particular attention is required to the installation of corner posts. The technology is simple, but just an installed vertical bar can freeze through. If the section is 15x15 cm, then for a moderate strip, this may be enough not to let heat through.

Vertically installed racks are fixed with slopes

If lumber of a smaller section is used or the owners want to additionally insulate the corner elements, then several options are possible:

• To increase the thickness, two boards are nailed to the corner posts with a depth equal to the depth of the post and a width of 5 cm. After exterior finish a special platband is stuffed into the corner, which provides an air gap between the corner and the platband board. This will reduce heat loss.
• Before the start of the outer skin, a counter-batten is mounted to hold the waterproofing. A beam of 5x5 or 5x4 cm is usually used. 5 cm is the optimal size for the ventilation gap between the wall and the finishing material. The selected material is attached to the counter-crate - lining, siding, imitation of timber.

Fastening the counter-battens to the racks of the frame house

overlap

Ceiling beams are attached to the upper trim by cutting or on metal corners. The notch should not exceed 50% of the thickness of the upper trim beam. The cross section and step of the beams depends on the purpose of the second floor.

• If it is assumed that there is an attic or a full-fledged residential floor, then the construction of the ceiling is similar to the floor of the first floor.
• If there is only an attic at the top, then the beams are taken with a smaller section.

For the convenience of work, a draft floor is laid on the ceiling from a board of 10x2.5 cm. This will facilitate movement and make work safer.

If the house assumes a one-story structure, then the upper beams are mounted with a 30 cm outlet for the walls of the frame. This is done to attach the rafters.

Fastening beams by cutting

Installation of the truss system

An important stage in the construction of a frame house, as with any other technology, is the choice of type and installation of the roof. Frame construction is positioned as a fast construction. Therefore, most often choose the usual gable design. Subject to all construction standards, the roof of a frame house can be built of any configuration and complexity, but this will take more time.

For good snow removal, the slope of the roof should be more than 28 degrees, but should not exceed 50 degrees - the wind load on such a roof increases several times.

For the construction of rafters, boards 15x5 cm 6 m long are taken. The first pair of rafters is assembled from two boards and installed on the edge of the frame. The same pair is installed on the opposite side. Cords are pulled between two pairs of rafters on both sides to control the plane of the roof. The rest of the rafters are exposed on them. The step between them varies from 60 to 80 cm, depending on the choice of insulation. For strengthening, wooden crossbars with a section of 15x5 cm are used. They fasten a pair of rafters like the letter “A”.

Video description

How to make a truss system of a frame house is shown in the video:

The nature of the crate depends on the selected roofing material. It can be soft tiles, corrugated board or metal tiles. The limitation will be the weight of the roofing material. For example, the use of clay or clinker tiles is not recommended - a large weight will create an additional load on the frame of the house.

Photo frame houses

Frame house with a balcony

Frame house with classic German exterior finish

Original frame house with a small slope of the roof

Frame house with a veranda and a sloping roof

Two-story prefabricated frame house

Construction of a frame house in winter

Frame house with a 4-pitched combined roof

Conclusion

A frame house is a technology that is only gaining popularity in domestic housing construction. Short construction time and cost savings are significant advantages over other construction methods. But the technology for building a frame house will require strict adherence to all technological processes and stages of construction, which will allow you to fully appreciate its advantages.

Frame construction has been rapidly gaining momentum in recent years. It has become especially popular among private developers. It is worth noting that in Canada this is a state program. In Russia - the solution of the housing problem on their own. Frame construction makes it possible to build a house in a short time with a minimum investment.

If we consider in detail - a frame house is:

• lower and upper trim, fastened with vertical posts, which form a frame for the subsequent installation of walls - both internal and external;
• a base made of timber for an attic space, consisting of load-bearing beams and floors;
• timber truss system, on which the roofing material is mounted - it should not be too heavy;
• depending on the region of construction, the appropriate insulation material is laid between the frame elements.

Important! the thickness of the insulator must correspond to the distance between the wall sheathing.

The frame is sheathed on both sides with moisture-resistant material.

You can build a frame house on your own, without having a special building education. This does not require a specialized tool, it is enough to study the technology and be patient, following all the steps in the construction strictly according to the instructions.

Canadian technology house - pros and cons

The frame structure has many positive aspects, for example:

1. Cost - if calculated per square meters, it is the lowest, which makes this technology popular all over the world.
2. Construction speed - a team of three people can build a house in just 1 month, provided that the foundation for the building has already been laid. The entire structure will be ready in 2 months - along with interior decoration.
3. Low heat capacity and thermal conductivity - modern heat insulators help create comfortable living conditions - both in summer and in winter. In addition, the frame structure allows you to save thermal energy - it is enough to heat only those rooms that are needed at the moment.
4. Aesthetics - already in the process of construction, it is possible to carry out all the necessary communications within the walls, “brick up” the electrical cable and wiring, and mount the ventilation system.
5. There is no need to build a recessed base, since the weight of the frame structure is small.
6. There is no need to give the building time to shrink. During the construction of the frame structure, dry materials are used that will not shrink later.
7. Environmental friendliness - only natural materials are used in the construction, which comply with sanitary standards and are safe for humans.
8. Ease of finishing inside the building - the wall is sheathed with modern slab materials that do not need plastering, which significantly reduces the time spent on finishing.
9. Resistance to temperature extremes - it is worth noting that the frame structure is a kind of thermos that retains heat. Such a structure can be heated periodically.
10. Seismic resistance - this design can withstand vibrations up to 9 points.
11. Construction can be carried out at any time. Even the foundation can be equipped with a pile-screw.
12. Simplicity of erection - for construction it is not necessary to use heavy equipment, a small construction team is enough.
13. Microclimate - building materials are natural, they "breathe", so a certain microclimate is created in the room.

But if you do not talk about the disadvantages of frame structures, the picture will be incomplete:

• quick flammability - in a few minutes the frame structure burns out completely, even the walls do not remain;
• danger of fungus and mold - in climatic zones where it rains frequently, dampness can appear in any structure. In a house built on a frame
• technology, this indicator is very high, therefore, even during construction, it is necessary to accurately calculate the “dew point”;
• low sound insulation is, of course, a significant drawback, but it can be eliminated by laying special soundproofing material in the walls;
• the difficulty of interior decoration is the inability to hang heavy objects on the walls if mortgages are not foreseen in advance.

But if you approach the construction with all responsibility, then you can eliminate the shortcomings, for example, observe safety precautions and treat the structure with various antiseptic impregnations.

Foundation for a frame house

In order for the foundation to be strong and serve for many years, you need to choose the right type of foundation. What to consider:

1. The type of soil on the site.
2. The height of the groundwater.
3. Building weight.
4. Seasonality of residence.
5. The region in which the house is planned to be built.
6. Wind and snow loads.

Most often, the following types of bases are equipped under the frame building:

• pile;
• pile-grillage;
• tape shallow.

In Russia, a pile-grillage foundation is most often equipped for frame structures. This is one of the types of prefabricated bases that do not require large financial investments. If you correctly calculate the load and build a structure, strictly adhering to the technology, then it will last a very long time.

Important! If you doubt the reliability of the design, apply the TISE technology. Piles have an extended heel, due to which the bearing capacity of the foundation increases significantly. In addition, the design will steadfastly resist the forces of heaving of the soil.

Piling wells can be drilled either manually or motorized. At the bottom of each hole, it is necessary to equip a sand cushion, for this:

1. The bottom of the well is well tamped, after spilling it with water;
2. Pour gravel-sand mixture - 15-20 cm;
3. Spill it with water and tamp;
4. Fill with concrete, about 15 cm.

The pillow is ready.

As formwork, you can use:

• The walls of the well, if the soil is dense and not prone to shedding. Just before pouring concrete, you need to equip the waterproofing.
• Roofing felt - a pipe of the desired diameter is twisted from it, which is fastened with metallized tape. The material is twisted in at least 4 rows.
• Asbestos-cement pipes are a simpler, but more expensive option.
• PVC pipes - can be purchased at any hardware store.

To strengthen the bearing capacity of the foundation, it is necessary to reinforce the piles, for this:

1. Prepare reinforcement with a section of 16 mm - for the main frame, with a diameter of 10 mm - for strapping.
2. Cut the base rods of the desired size, not forgetting that they should be 80 cm above ground level. This is necessary in order to subsequently tie the grillage reinforcement.
3. Prepare items for tying.
4. Build a triangular structure from the main reinforcement, connecting it with strapping elements with a step of 40 cm.
5. Lower the finished structure into the shaft strictly vertically.

Everything is ready - you can pour concrete, grades not lower than M250.

Once the concrete has set, formwork can be installed for the grillage, which can be recessed, elevated or hanging. For the arrangement of the structure, ready-made plywood panels are used, they are built directly in place from a board, 40 mm thick.

Waterproofing is laid in the formwork, reinforcement is carried out. The longitudinal bars of the frame are connected to the outlets from the piles. In the tape, you need to equip holes for communications and the ventilation system - for this it is enough to install pipe sections.

You also need to prepare studs to secure the strapping beam. Elements should be installed with an indent from the corners of 30 cm, then the step is 1-2 meters. It must be remembered that it is the studs that will connect the base of the house to the foundation, so the more often they are installed, the stronger the structure.

Important! No matter how long the wall is, at least two studs are installed for it.

The next step is to pour the concrete. In order for the structure to gain the required strength and not crack, it should be covered with polyethylene or roofing material. Further work will begin in a week, provided that the air temperature is not lower than +20 degrees. At lower temperatures, you will have to wait longer. The main condition is that concrete must gain at least 50% of its strength.

Bottom harness and floor

Wood tends to absorb moisture, and so that it does not take it from concrete, it is necessary to equip high-quality waterproofing. You can apply the same roofing material or bituminous mastic in two layers, which is more reliable, since the roofing material can become brittle over time. When insulating work, you need to take into account the location of groundwater - the closer they are, the more layers you need to equip.

The next step is the strapping, which is done in the following way:

1. For beds, prepare boards 150x50 mm in size, they must be dry and impregnated with wired compounds;
2. The boards are aligned along the outer edge of the base;
3. Drill holes for the studs, which should be larger in diameter, by about 2-3 mm;
4. Lay the first row of boards;
5. The second row of material is arranged in such a way that the joint of the boards of the first row falls in the middle of the board of the second;
6. Knock the boards together with nails in 20 cm increments in a checkerboard pattern.

Advice! For strapping, you can use a beam 150x100, but its cost is much higher, and the boards assembled in this way have a large bearing capacity.

We put the harness and lags

The binding is constructed as follows:

• Take boards 150x50 in size, which should be installed on the edge with alignment along the outer edge of the base along the perimeter of the building. Nail them with 200 mm nails to the bed, the fastening step is 40 cm.
• The logs are mounted from the same board, placed on the edge and fixed with 90 mm nails, drive two nails from both sides into the end of each board. Fasteners should be driven in obliquely.
• The first board is installed at a distance of 40 cm from the strapping, the subsequent elements are installed at the same distance, but it should be understood that the longer the board, the smaller the distance between the lags.

Important! If the logs are very long, then a transverse beam is equipped, on which jumpers are nailed so that the structure stands firmly.

Insulation and flooring

Once the lag structure is built, you can begin to equip the subfloor. It can be built from a board, 250 mm thick. To do this, slats 5x5 cm are stuffed on the logs along the lower edge, on which elements of the desired length are laid. Nail each piece of board with 4 nails, 2 on each edge.

The rough coating is ready, you can start warming. For this, foam is used - it is environmentally friendly, cheap and moisture resistant. The thickness of the insulation in this situation should be 15 cm. To do this, lay the first layer of 10 cm. All cracks and gaps must be foamed. The second row is laid in a checkerboard pattern, the material is 5 cm thick.

It is worth talking about foam, which has many advantages:

• easy;
• easy to install - cut with a hacksaw or utility knife;
• eco-friendly;
• inexpensive;
• has a long service life;
• a layer thickness of 15 cm is able to keep heat like an ordinary brick wall.

After that, you can lay the finishing floor, on which the floor covering will subsequently be mounted. The floor can be equipped with plywood 15 mm thick or OSB 12 mm thick, in 2 layers. It is worth noting that OSB is cheaper, so this material is preferred by many private developers.

Sheets are stacked in a checkerboard pattern, while between the sheets it is worth leaving a gap of 3 mm to compensate, since the material can change its volume from changes in humidity.
The plates are fastened with self-tapping screws, 35 mm long, along the seams with a step of 12 cm, along the perimeter of the sheet 25 cm in a checkerboard pattern.

wall construction

There are two ways to mount walls:

Frame-panel option:

1. Assemble the frame of the walls on the floor - you can do it all at once, you can do it in parts;
2. Sheathe the frame from the outside with OSB or GVL boards;
3. Raise the elements, set the level strictly vertically - fix.

This assembly principle is used by factories - panels are assembled in the workshops according to a specific project, which are then delivered to the construction site and mounted on a finished foundation with strapping. Also, frame-panel technology can be used in the construction of a house structure with your own hands.

Method - balloon:

1. A bar 100x100 or 150x150 along the perimeter is attached to the lower trim, depending on the thickness of the thermal insulation, the step of each element should be no more than 120 mm - this is the width of the sheathing plate;
2. Install intermediate racks at a distance of 60 cm, that is, in the middle of the main ones, their thickness should not be less than 50 mm;
3. The upper trim is constructed from a bar or board, similar to the lower one;
4. Sheathe the frame of the walls from the outside - the pitch of the screws at the seams: 12-15 cm;
5. Lay the insulation, foam all the cracks and seams;
6. Sheathe the frame with inside.

Which method to choose, the developer decides. But it directly depends on how many people work at the construction site. If it is possible to invite several people to help, at least occasionally, then assembly on the floor is much more reliable and easier.

Installation and section of racks

Corner rack elements - timber 150x150 mm or 100x100 mm. It is worth noting that it all depends on the load, for example, for a one-story building, 10 cm is enough, for a two-story building - 15 cm and above.

There are several ways to mount racks:

• on wooden dowels;
• cutting;
• on steel corners.

The method of installation on dowels is old and complicated:

1. You must first prepare dowels from dry wood of the desired diameter.
2. Then drill holes obliquely through the lower trim bar and the rack.
3. Hammer the dowel into the prepared hole, and saw off the protruding ends.

It is worth mentioning right away that this method is reliable only if the material is dried well. In the case of raw wood, it dries out, the wooden spike will also dry out, and the rigidity of the fastening will be lost.

cutting made in the lower strapping, and you can choose only 50% of the depth of the timber.

The easiest way - steel corners, which are installed on both sides of the racks and screwed with self-tapping screws, 3-5 pieces on each side of the corner, depending on the load.

Also, when building according to Canadian technology, the beams for doors and windows should be double, since the load on these structures is very large and reinforcement is necessary.

Bevels or braces

These elements are necessary if the frame of the walls of the house is assembled on the spot. The slopes can be temporary - from the inside of the walls, if it is supposed to sheathe the frame with any slab material. These elements are needed in order to set the racks in a strictly vertical position and fix them until the sheathing is completed. After that, the cuttings are removed.

When using type-setting, for example, lining, it is necessary to install permanent braces. They are installed on each pair of racks of 4 pieces - 2 at the top and bottom. It is worth not neglecting this rule, since in the process of sheathing the racks can “float” and the geometry will be broken.

Advice! To reduce construction costs, you can apply the technology of prefabricated racks, which are assembled from two boards. To do this, they need to be knocked down with nails in a checkerboard pattern with a step of 20 cm. Of course, it will take more time to build, since each rack will have to be assembled separately, but the bearing capacity of these elements is many times higher.

Frame house corners

Arrangement of corners raises many questions. If you install the rack bar directly at the corner, then installation can be done without problems, but in this case it will be cold. For areas with a mild climate, this is not a problem. But in central Russia, winters are cold, and corner elements need additional insulation.

There are two options for solving the problem:

1. Install the racks at a distance of 15-20 cm from the corner, then there will be a gap between the frame sheathing and the beam, which is insulated with an insulator.
2. Install 2 racks at the corners at a distance of 10-15 cm, depending on the thickness of the heat insulator.

In addition, it is possible to insulate the structure again when installing the facing material, then the house will not only be warm, but will also acquire an aesthetic appearance.

overlap

Beams are fixed to the upper harness in three ways:

1. On steel support brackets;
2. On steel corners;
3. With inset.

The installation step of the beam structure and the size of the elements directly depend on what is planned to be done from above. If it is planned to equip the attic floor, then in order for the floor not to sag, the cross section of the beams is taken to be maximum, and the step between them is reduced to 40 cm. 100x100.

If it is planned to build a second floor, then the beams are taken 150x150, a draft floor is mounted on them - it will be easier to work with the walls of the second floor. The assembly of the structure itself is carried out in a similar way to that used in the construction of the first floor, but with the difference that the wall frame structure will have to be dragged to the second floor.

Rafter system and roofing material

Often, when building a house using frame technology, two types of truss systems are used:

1. gable;
2. Attic.

The difference in their arrangement is small, it is enough to correctly calculate the material. But in the case of frame structures, there is a limitation on the weight of the roofing material - it must be light, otherwise the wooden beams may not withstand a heavy load.

Warming

To insulate the frame structure, you can use any of the known insulators that meet the characteristics and requirements for thermal insulation:

• Mineral wool - meets all the requirements, but it is worth remembering that this material is not moisture resistant and, when wet, can lose its insulating properties by 30-50%. To prevent such consequences, it is necessary to equip high-quality vapor barrier.
• Styrofoam is the most inexpensive and sought-after insulation that does not absorb moisture, does not sag, and keeps heat well.
• Basalt wool is a natural insulator that can be purchased both in rolls and in mats.
• Expanded polystyrene is almost the same polystyrene, but its fraction is much smaller. The material meets all sanitary standards, does not absorb moisture, keeps heat well. The only drawback is that direct sunlight destroys the material.

Important! When choosing the size of the insulating material, it is worth remembering that the plates should be 2-4 cm larger than the gaps between the posts so that when installing the insulator there are no unwanted cold bridges.

The choice of insulation material depends on the financial possibilities and the region of construction, but it is better not to save on insulation, since it depends on how much money you will spend on heating the room.

Finally

Using the tips and step-by-step instructions described above, anyone can assemble a frame structure on their own, without resorting to the help of professional builders. Canadian technology houses are assembled in a short time and are inexpensive, which made them so popular with private developers.

Frame house - deservedly holds the palm as the most reliable, warm, pre-fabricated and energy-efficient object of mass construction, commonly used today. Structure frame houses has long been used in many developed countries: for example, in the USA, Australia and Canada, their percentage reaches almost 90%, and in Europe it approaches 80%. It's nice that the technology of building frame houses has reached Russia. Developers are increasingly resorting to the development of this technology, but not every one of them conscientiously observe the basic principles of frame housing construction. Sometimes the rules are broken to please non-professional builders, and often because not all builders have studied this technology. Therefore, in order not to waste money and time searching for a professional team of builders, which there are not so many today, we go to the design bureau on our own to draw up a detailed and suitable project for you, we are looking for a couple of assistants, we prepare the necessary tools and in just a couple of months , we enjoy the work done, the result of which is a finished frame house.

Do-it-yourself frame construction

In most cases, when building a frame-type house, wood is used to make the frame. Of course, metal can also be used, while the frame structure will weigh much lighter, but material costs will increase by almost 40%, which is a weighty argument to abandon this idea in favor of using wood. In addition, the main philosophy of frame housing construction is a significant reduction in the estimated cost of construction.

A frame house is assembled, like a children's designer, in a certain sequence, which must not be violated in order to avoid weakening and instability of the structure.

The phased order of construction can be described in the following sequence:

The foundation of a frame house

The construction of the foundation is the most important and responsible step in the construction of any object. There are a lot of technologies for its construction:, and others, each has its own nuances and features. Since the construction of a frame house is carried out with a maximum of 2 floors, it can be built on any type of foundation.

Types of foundations that can be used in the construction of frame houses

The most reasonable solution would be the construction of a strip or pile screw foundation. The task of such foundations is not so much to withstand the huge weight of the building, but to create the rigidity of fastening the base for the entire structure by adding a reinforcing frame to the monolith in the first case and connecting the piles with a grillage in the second case.

Laying the bottom rail

Before proceeding with the laying of the lower beam, you should once again check the horizontalness of the plane of the slab or grillage.

With a positive result, a waterproofing layer of roofing material is spread on the foundation around the perimeter, on top of which the beam itself is laid.

The most popular ways of fastening the beam in the corners are: the connection "in the floor of the tree" and the connection "in the paw". And one and the second way is quite reliable.

You can fasten sawn corners together 150 mm. nails (4 for each corner), or a wooden dowel, which is tightly driven into a pre-drilled hole.

In addition to connecting the docking angle, the dowel serves as a fastener for the installation of corner vertical posts, it should not be cut flush, it should protrude above the base of the lower trim beam to a height of at least 10 cm.

Options for connecting the corners of the bottom trim

Important! Before the final connection of the corners, it is necessary to make sure that the perimeter laid out from the timber has equal diagonals and right angles.

The next step is to fasten the bottom trim to the foundation. For this purpose, an anchor bolt with a diameter of 16-18 mm. For high-quality connection of two structures, the bolt must enter the base of the grillage to a depth of at least 100 mm. Anchor fastening step from 1-1.5 m. For a larger contact area, a nut of the largest possible diameter must be placed under the bolt or stud.

Fastening the bottom trim using anchors

If, at the stage of pouring the foundation, fastening studs were inserted into the tape, then anchors will not be needed in this case. In the marked beam, holes are drilled into which concreted metal studs will be inserted.

Washers with a thickness of at least 3 mm., after which they are tightly tightened with nuts. At this stage, the fastening of the lower trim can be considered complete.

When building a house using frame technology, the first step is to install corner posts. If a wooden dowel was used when connecting the corners of the lower trim, then the pole is installed on its protruding part. To do this, the necessary hole is drilled in the lower end of the column with a brace, for their tight connection.

For greater efficiency, you can use a special bonding adhesive. The dowel must be made of hardwood, such as oak or birch, with a cross section of at least 20Ø mm.

In the case of connecting the corners of the lower trim with nails, the posts on both sides are fastened to the base of the trim with galvanized metal corners with reinforcement, thickness 4 mm. To fasten the corner, use a black phosphated wood screw.

Pole fastening using a metal corner

In both versions, the poles are additionally fixed with temporary jibs made from pieces of an ordinary board.

Firstly, this significantly weakens the main structure of the lower trim, and secondly, the complexity and necessary precision of the cuts significantly slows down the overall process of assembling the frame.

Rack installation

After the final installation and fixing of the corner posts, the rest of the posts are placed at the pre-marked places according to the project.

They are attached using the same metal corner. When building frame houses, two main steps are used between the racks:

• Pitch - 400 mm. The frequent step of installing racks makes the frame especially durable, which allows you to build both one-story and two-story buildings. Also, the resulting distance allows you to fix standard drywall sheets without cutting them to the desired size.
• Pitch - 600 mm. Such a step is more often used in the construction of one-story buildings, because the structure in this case is less durable and simply may not withstand the load of the second floor. This step will allow you to use not only drywall, but also standard insulation without trimming.

Fig 2. Scheme of installation of window openings and their reinforcement

In places of window and door openings, due to the lack of a full-fledged vertical rack, the frame must be additionally reinforced.

To do this, one more board is added to the side racks relative to the window. They are adjacent to the main stepping post of the wall, from the lower trim to the upper beam of the window opening.

A load-bearing crossbar is installed above the opening. This strengthens the load-bearing capacity of the weakened node structure. (see fig. 2).

Laying the timber of the upper strapping

The corners of the upper trim, similarly to the lower trim, are connected to the “floor of the tree” or to the “paw”, only to fasten them to the corner posts, the use of a dowel is no longer necessary, it will be enough to have a couple of nails hammered from above and one corner on each side of the post.

According to the same principle “corners below and two nails on top”, the upper trim is connected to the rest of the racks. Before installation, it is important to check the verticality of all exposed racks for the last time.

Top trim scheme

floor beams

The floor beam is a cut board installed across the top trim. The method of attaching the beams is a nail, a metal corner.

It is necessary to place the beams directly above the vertical posts, so the load of the second floor will be distributed evenly on all load-bearing walls.

Beam sections for different spans:

If the aperture ratio is not equal 1m., then rounding the intermediate number, we use the closest value given from the table.

In order for the structure to have a large bearing capacity, it is necessary to place the floor beams perpendicular to the wall, which has a large length.

For example, take a house with dimensions 5x8 m., so the beams must be laid perpendicular to the wall, which has a length 8 m. If the structural feature of the roof for its overhang requires the overhang of the beams, then it is necessary to take this into account initially and make the size of the beams longer.

Bevels and jumpers

To resist strong winds, the frame house must have special strength. Therefore, it is desirable to strengthen all the main racks and corner posts with so-called slopes. The slopes are made from a bar with a size 70x50 mm.

There are 4 cuttings for each rack (2 on top and 2 on the bottom). Using a tape measure and a level, the diagonal and vertical of the resulting spans are checked.

For tight contact of the bar with the elements to be connected, it must be cut at the desired angle, after which, using nails, they must be mounted.

Second no less effective method strengthening the frame - installing horizontal jumpers between the bearing racks, this will significantly add spatial rigidity to the structure, and also prevent vertical slipping of the insulation, being a horizontal support for it.

The material for the jumpers is a board of the same dimensions as the racks themselves. It is necessary to install jumpers proportionally dividing the span into equal sections. Fastening is also done with a nail.

The construction of the truss system

Builders strongly do not recommend using natural tiles or other heavy materials, for this you need an expert opinion from a qualified specialist on the possibility of using this type of roof, which he can give only after a full study of the bearing capacity of the frame.

You can learn more about the technology of building a truss system in this video:

As you can see, a frame house is being built with your own hands quite quickly and simply. Having certain skills in construction and the necessary tools, a team of two to three people will be able to build this type of structure in a fairly short time.

Frame construction has gained popularity due to price and technological accessibility. This technology allows you to build quickly. At the same time, simple available materials are used in construction and light warm walls are obtained. However, there are some rules that must be observed when working with this technology. They help to build a frame house reliably and correctly, choose the right panels and boards, insulate them with high quality, complete the sheathing, and assemble the roof. So, how to build a frame house?

Correct frame house

Frame construction is a new technology in which the sequence of work can be different. For example, you can first assemble the frame, then hang the roof and assemble the walls. Or you can do the work in a different way: after the construction of the frame, hang wall cladding, which will increase its strength, and then assemble the roof.

Building with attic and balcony.

To prevent discrepancies, here is what the scheme of the correct frame house looks like:

• Prepare and mark the site.
• Pour or build a foundation.
• Build a complete frame and rafters under the roof. For multi-storey construction - assemble the frame of the first floor, put the ceilings and assemble the frame of the second floor. After that, collect the rafters.
• Hang a roof that will close the interior from precipitation.
• Hang the outer wall cladding under the protection of the assembled roof.
• Lay insulation in the frame.
• Hang the inner lining of the frame.
• Make a subfloor.
• Install windows and doors.
• Lay electrical wiring, stretch water supply and sewage pipes, equip heating.
• Perform interior finishing of the floor and walls.

You can clearly see how to build a frame house correctly in the video. We will describe in more detail each stage of the construction of a new building.

Preparation for construction

Preparation for construction includes the following works:

1. Prepare construction tools. You will need a level, a tape measure, a hacksaw and a circular saw, a drill and a screwdriver, a hammer, possibly a concrete mixer. Work gloves and a pencil will also come in handy. It is necessary to provide a place for storing tools - a utility room, a canopy.
2. It is necessary to provide a supply for the operation of power tools, for this they pull the wire from the poles or connect to the neighbors.
3. To equip the entrance to the place of frame construction.
4. Perform preliminary marking for ground work - mark the location of the future building on the ground with pegs.

Earthworks and foundation

The foundation of the future house will be built in accordance with the project. It can be concrete slab or concrete tape. It can also be piled - stand on metal or concrete pillars. To equip the foundation, it is necessary to remove part of the soil, and pour concrete into the prepared pits or place ready-made concrete blocks.

On a note

Work on the preparation of pits and ditches for the foundation is called soil or earthworks.

In the course of excavation, pits and ditches are prepared, which are necessary for pouring or assembling the foundation. The type of foundation and its design determine the dimensions of the pits. Therefore, the choice of foundation determines the amount of soil work - the amount of land that needs to be dug.

Trench for strip foundation.

When pouring a concrete foundation, work is performed in the following sequence:

• Prepare a hole of the desired shape and size.
• The bottom of the trench is covered with sand - they perform the so-called sand cushion. A layer of sand will provide an accelerated outflow of water from under the foundation.
• They put formwork - boards or plywood along the edges of the pit.
• Reinforcement is laid in the formwork - for the strength of the future foundation of the house.
• Air ducts are laid (pipes for underground ventilation).
• Mix and pour concrete. Also, the concrete solution can be ordered at the factory, get it ready for pouring - in a concrete mixer machine.
• Anchors are installed on non-hardened concrete - fasteners for future frame supports and lower trim.
• After pouring, they are kept for 6-7 days if the weather is hot, and 9-10 days if the temperature outside is about + 20 ° C. At this time, the concrete is gaining the necessary strength. After - proceed to the assembly of the power frame of the frame house.

In order not to waste time, during the curing of concrete, you can prepare lumber: saw beams to the size of frame racks, partitions, jibs, treat them with an antiseptic.

Power frame and roof

The power frame of the house is assembled in accordance with the project. The drawings and diagrams indicate the dimensions of the supporting elements, their location, the distance between adjacent racks. Also in the drawings are described methods of attaching various boards and beams to each other.

Power frame.

The frame is assembled from separate parts. The assembly of each part is carried out in two stages. The first is the assembly of the frame section "on the ground". The second is the lifting of the assembled section and its installation, fastening. This technology makes it easy to assemble the right frame house with your own hands.

We give a description of the sequence of assembling the wall frame:

1. Future vertical racks are connected to the boards of the lower and upper strapping on the ground, according to the design scheme.
2. The assembled frame of each wall is lifted and installed on the foundation, attached to its surface.
3. A second upper trim and floor beams are laid on top of the frame.
4. On top of the floor beams - they are assembled from the frame elements prepared on the ground, the walls of the second floor, or attic.
5. The assembly of rafters under the roof begins with the assembly and installation of the frame under the gables.
6. They assemble the truss system - also from, which are pre-assembled from boards on the ground. For ease of assembly, all rafters are made according to the same template and have the same dimensions. They are lifted to the roof in assembled form, installed and attached to the upper trim of the upper floor.

The correct frame house uses a technology in which the roof is first built, and only after that the walls are sheathed. Therefore, after assembling the rafters, they are covered with a film, sheathing and roofing - metal tiles, ondulin.

How to sheathe a building

The wall cladding of the house forms the surface, protects from precipitation and ensures the stability of the house, prevents it from tilting. In order for the wall to perform strength functions, the sheathing is made of wall materials of a certain thickness. How to sheathe a frame house?

Exterior finish with imitation masonry.

The dimensions of wall panels are regulated by GOST. So, for one-story houses, if OSB sheathing, plywood or cement board (DSP) is used, slabs with a thickness of at least 9 mm are required, and for two-story houses - at least 12 mm.

The correct frame wall of the house is assembled from separate PVC panels. In this case, the joints between adjacent panels must be reliably insulated or overlap each other. For example, when sheathing a wall with thin wall materials, siding, the bottom row of wall panels is first hung, then the top row located above it. So the wall is sheathed completely from the bottom up. At the same time, the next row of wall cladding overlaps the previous one by several cm.

Wall cladding is fastened with self-tapping screws. The sheathing is screwed to the frame wooden racks. Therefore, the process of assembling a wall is called a "constructor".

Correct wall

The frame wall performs the function of protecting the internal space of the house from heat and cold, from the encroachments of strangers, from rain and wind. To perform each of the necessary functions, a layer of material is intended, which is part of the frame wall cake. How right?

Ventilated facade.

• For the strength and load-bearing capacity of the wall, a strong load-bearing frame is constructed.
• For heat capacity - the inner space of the walls is filled with heat-insulating material.
• To protect against atmospheric precipitation - use moisture-resistant outer wall cladding.
• For outdoor and indoor decor, as well as to protect against moisture and wetting, wall cladding is necessary.

In addition, additional materials are used that ensure the functioning of the main layers of the frame wall. For example, cotton wool insulation must be covered with a vapor barrier film. This protects it from moisture.

On a note

The heat capacity of a cotton insulator decreases sharply when moisture gets inside it. Therefore, dampness inside the building wool is unacceptable.

Here is the minimum list of layers of the frame wall and the order of their alternation, how the correct pie of the frame house should look like:

1. Internal wall cladding - forms the surface of the walls of the interior. It is made of panel materials - plywood, drywall, wooden lining, MDF or OSB panels.
2. Polyethylene film to prevent dampness of the insulation from the inside. Vapor barrier is important for cotton insulation and is not important for polystyrene foam, polyurethane foam.
3. Insulation is a heat-insulating material that is characterized by low thermal conductivity. It ensures the safety of heat inside, and cool air in the interior during hot summers. The traditional choice of insulating material for a frame house is mineral or basalt wool. Also, sometimes expanded polystyrene is used or cotton and foamed styrene materials are combined.
4. The film on the outside of the insulation is a membrane material that allows moisture particles to go outside and does not allow them to penetrate inside the insulation. The membrane structure ensures the ability of the film to pass steam in only one direction. This layer is important for cotton wool insulation and does not make sense when insulating a house with foam.
5. External wall cladding - forms the surface of the walls from the outside, protects against precipitation, mechanical damage. It should be made of durable, beautiful and waterproof material. Often used metal profile, plastic siding, wooden boards or profiled timber, as well as OSB panels, followed by plastering or painting.

When using cotton wool insulation in the "pie", the walls of the frame house provide for ventilation gaps. The clearance on the outside is especially important. It acts as a ventilation space through which wet steam escapes.

It is necessary to take into account a large number of conditions in order to build the right frame house, the video will show the main points that you need to pay attention to.

Correct gender

Flooring is performed before the walls are insulated in order to make it convenient to move around inside the house during work. The correct floor in a frame house must be insulated. To do this, a heat insulator is laid between the lags of the floor. After - they close it with a vapor barrier with access to the walls. Sheathing boards are placed on top of the vapor barrier film. Moreover, if a plank floor is planned, then the crate is placed on top of the log, along their entire length. If a less durable OSB or plywood floor is planned, then the crate is laid across the log. After - a finishing floor is laid on top of the crate, they proceed to the insulation of the walls.

How to properly insulate

Mostly use cotton insulating material. - mineral basalt wool - a low-combustible material on a natural basis, which is obtained from molten stone - basalt. How to properly insulate a frame house?

On a note

At first glance, it is difficult to distinguish between glass wool and mineral wool. It is important to know that mineral basalt wool is more expensive and much more durable (40 years instead of 20 years for glass wool).

Cotton wool insulation is characterized by compressibility, which is used when mounting the material between the frame supports. Mineral wool slabs or mats compress slightly when laid between the studs of the frame. Then they are held between the supports without additional fixation.

We lay mineral wool in the frame of the house.

It starts with walls where mineral mats are used, which are characterized by low compressibility and increased rigidity. In such mats, the insulation does not sag and retains the ability to retain heat for a long time.

On a note

When using rolled insulation, additional horizontal beams are required on which the wool will “lie”. This will not allow her to sag or sag over time.

It uses ready-made slabs in which foam plastic slabs are laid as a heater. However, this is the worst option for wall insulation, more affordable and inferior in environmental friendliness and climate control.

Foam plastics "do not breathe", they do not provide natural gas exchange through the walls of the premises. What creates an unhealthy microclimate inside the house.

Windows and doors

Almost always, the manufacture and installation of windows is ordered from a company specializing in these works. Doors - non-standard sizes are also made to order. Standard canvases 60x180 are purchased together with the boat in finished form.

Do-it-yourself pvc window installation.

The choice of door material is determined by the place of its installation. For a room, it can be chipboard or wood. As a street entrance door, you can put metal or fiberglass.

Engineering Communication

During the assembly of the wall, engineering communications are laid inside it. They are placed on top of the vapor barrier film in such a way that the cross section of the wire or pipe is not squeezed by the subsequent wall cladding. For the convenience of subsequent wall cladding, small recesses are drilled in the crate, through which a pipe or cable wire is laid.

Finishing

Interior decoration of the premises begins with hanging wall panels from the inside of the wall. To do this, use materials with a flat surface. Or materials for finishing wall decoration.

Internal walls are often equipped with drywall or OSB boards. At the same time, OSB requires additional plaster. And drywall - gluing joints. Also, the internal walls of frame houses are often equipped with MDF panels or natural wooden lining.

The construction of a frame house allows you to quickly solve the housing problem, save on materials and do the work yourself. Assembly takes only 2-3 months, and wood costs are almost halved (compared to timber buildings). You can build a frame without serious experience in construction - step-by-step instructions will help you with this.

There are several technologies for building a frame house: Canadian, Finnish, German, using a wooden or metal base. But in any case, the design includes the following elements:

• top and ;
• vertical racks;
• rafter system;
• heat and sound insulating layer;
• interior and exterior cladding.

Wall thickness depends from the region of construction and purpose of the house- for temporary or seasonal residence. The set of materials is standard: wooden beams, boards, OSB panels, moisture-resistant plywood, insulation, fasteners. Specialized tools are not required, but sometimes a technician may be needed to install large-sized elements.

Preparation for construction

The basis of a frame house is wood materials, which excess moisture damages. It is important to choose the right building site - dry, without wetlands, not flooded during rain. It is necessary to pre-level the ground, remove debris, prepare a passage for trucks.

The second stage is development. This task is best left to professionals who take into account existing building codes, coordinate documents in licensing authorities. If skills allow, you can take a typical project and adapt it to your own needs. The main thing is not to forget about engineering communications and take into account the recommended dimensions of the house.

Important! To quickly build a frame house, be sure to draw up an estimate and describe all the stages of the work. You can take the following step-by-step instructions as a basis.

Stages of building a frame

Wooden structures are subject to biological destruction, unstable to fire. To solve this problem, apply flame retardants and bioprotective compounds. It is most convenient to use a complex remedy that protects against fire, woodworms and decay. Impregnation treatment is necessary at every stage of the construction of a frame house.

Foundation device

The skeleton weighs much less than a timber or brick house, so a lightweight foundation is enough for it.

The most popular option is tape. For its arrangement, they dig a trench according to the marking of the future house, install a wooden formwork in it, fill it with concrete mortar, and tamp the mixture. For tamping, use hand tools or special vibrators.

In second place is - bored or screw. In the first case, the piles are driven into pre-drilled holes, in the second, they are screwed in manually or using special equipment. Above them, a grillage is arranged in the form of a tape. 200-400 mm thick and 200-300 mm high. It binds the piles into a single whole, increasing the strength of the structure. When arranging a pile foundation, it is important to take into account the characteristics of the soil and strictly follow the technology. Otherwise, the soil will swell and loosen the piles.

slab foundation- a great option for those who decide to build a frame house with their own hands. A slab poured from concrete compensates for the seasonal expansion of the soil. The recommended height is 250-500 mm. Most practical insulated Swedish plate (UShP), consisting of several layers:

• compacted sand bedding;
• rigid foam 200 mm thick;
• reinforced concrete mixture;
• underfloor heating pipes;
• leveling screed.

UWB combines foundation, monolithic floor and heating system. But such a foundation requires large financial investments.

One of the most accessible foundations - columnar. It is a small posts, installed on the ground or buried in it. The columnar foundation is easy to do with your own hands, but due to its low reliability, it is only suitable for domestic buildings.

Subfloor device

There are two types of wooden subfloor:

• load-bearing structure used in combination with a strip or pile foundation;
• the lattice structure is used in tandem with a slab or concrete screed.

In the first case, the horizontal level is observed at the stage of arranging the base or grillage, in the second - at the stage of pouring the base.

Subfloor laying technology looks like a wall plan. Install first load-bearing base- joists and crossbars. If necessary, the lags are overlapped. To strengthen the structure, additional spacers are used. At the same stage, engineering structures are laid: water supply, gas pipeline and sewerage.

Frame erection

Frames of prefabricated houses are metal and wooden. If you have no experience in building, it is better to order a factory kit ready for installation. Otherwise, it is necessary to comply with assembly technology. There are two options:

• collect all elements at the installation site;
• gradually assemble the walls on a horizontal surface and install them in place.

The second method is more convenient and productive - especially for metal frames. To assemble the latter, a welding machine is used.

The construction of the frame takes place in several stages:

1. Bottom harness. The size of her cross section depends on the type of foundation. The harness is placed above the ground mark, carefully treated with antiseptics and waterproofed.
2. frame for each wall. The step of the racks is 60 cm with plank sheathing and 62.5 cm with shield sheathing. The latter exactly corresponds to the standard dimensions of the OSB board. During the installation phase, temporary braces are often installed. The maximum load falls on the corners, so the most durable materials are used for their production.
3. Upper harness. The choice of material depends on the load that the structural element will carry. With high strength, the metal requires a large number of drillings and is expensive. More convenient to use wooden beam, single or double boards. Their thickness depends on the area of ​​the house.
4. Cover beams. When building a frame house, reinforced concrete floors are not used - they weigh too much. Best suited for this purpose boards 50*200 mm in size or paired boards 50*150 mm in size. The pitch varies from 40 to 60 cm. Internal partitions. They can be plank (one- or two-layer), frame-sheathed with or without insulation. Dry lumber, plywood, chipboard, drywall, OSB are suitable for the construction of partitions.

Several technologies are used to connect wooden elements: 90° joint, 45° cut joint, half-timber joint, tongue and groove joints.

Roof arrangement

The construction of the roof is one of the most important stages in the construction of a frame house. It is necessary to determine in advance its type, type of truss system, sheathing material. A gable roof is well suited for a frame with a slope of not less than 28 and not more than 50 degrees.

For the truss system you will need boards section 50*150 or 50*200 mm- dimensions depend on the design load and the insulation used. The standard step is 60 cm. Two boards are connected on the ground, the finished structure is lifted to the roof and mounted on the top trim with an overhang of 35-70 cm. To make the roof even, the rafters are installed first on the gables, and then in the middle. The final stage is the installation of a thinned or continuous crate, on top of which the roofing material is fixed.

Insulation and sheathing of the frame

The finished frame is treated with antiseptics, dried well and sheathed with OSB boards. The resulting cells are filled with insulation - mineral wool or polystyrene foam. The thickness of the layer depends on the purpose of the house - at least 15-20 cm is required for permanent residence. The wall cake looks like this:

• wind waterproofing;
• outer skin - plates;
• insulation;
• vapor barrier;
• inner lining made of GKL or OSB + GKL.

For outdoor decoration use siding, wood or fiber cement panels, plaster, decorative bricks.

Interior decoration

This is the finishing frame house. Lightweight walls do not shrink, so you can immediately start finishing. It goes through several stages:

• Final arrangement of the floor. Mount first wooden base from boards with a section of 50-150 mm- their ends are laid on the support bars or on the foundation. The lower part of the lag is covered with hydroprotection, followed by insulation, vapor barrier, boards or OSB. Floor covering - linoleum, laminate or parquet.
• Ceiling lining. The crate is attached to the support bars, they are laid in the formed sections vapor barrier and insulation. The layers are covered with drywall or other slab material.

If you follow the construction technology, a frame house will serve you for many years. The main thing is to choose the right project that meets the climatic conditions of the region and regulatory requirements.