The construction of wooden frame houses has gained popularity in our area relatively recently, only in recent decades. And such a rapid growth in the number of supporters of such buildings is due to the very rapid process of their construction and the possibility of using environmentally friendly materials.

The first frame buildings appeared during the development of the territories of America and Canada, then they became widespread in European countries. This type of building is good not only because the house rises quickly, but also because it requires much less cost and physical effort. In addition, if the facade of the house is finished with one of the modern materials that imitate brick, wood or stone, then its walls cannot be distinguished from the main ones.

Interestingly, building with your own hands is quite possible even alone. Of course, the process will take much longer, but you won’t have to pay for the work of the whole team. If you decide to carry out the construction yourself and complete during the warm and dry summer period, then you still need to start in early spring. If the house is not completely finished until late autumn, you need to try to bring the construction site at least to the truss structure and to the flooring of the roofing material, since the building cannot be allowed to stand uncovered until next spring.

What is a frame structure?

Generally speaking, the frame structure of the house consists of a lower and upper trim, which fastens vertically installed racks that form the frame of external and internal walls. The base for the floors and the attic floor consists of load-bearing beams made of timber. The rafter system is also built from beams, and the roofing is laid on it. It is desirable that it does not differ in too large a mass.

A heater is installed and laid between the elements of the frame. Its thickness is chosen depending on the region and climatic conditions. In any case, the thickness of the frame racks must correspond to this value. Most often, one of the varieties of mineral wool, ecowool, expanded polystyrene or polyurethane foam is chosen as thermal insulation materials. Expanded clay is also used to insulate floors and attic floors.

How to insulate frame house?

When choosing, it is necessary to take into account not only the thermal insulation qualities of the material, but also a number of other factors - hygroscopicity, chemical and biological resistance, density, environmental friendliness, etc. And for frame house the combustibility of the material and its stability are of great importance .

On the pages of our portal there are a lot of materials that tell in detail.

After installing the insulation, the structure is sheathed with moisture-resistant materials - it can be OSB board, moisture-resistant plywood or cement-bonded particle board (DSP).

Compared to solid wood, block or brick buildings, the frame structure is light and does not require a massive foundation. A columnar or pile-screw base is suitable for it, and if it is planned to arrange basements in the house, then in this case it is best to choose strip foundation. The frame structure must be raised high enough above the ground, therefore basement must have a height of at least 500 mm. This is necessary so that the moisture from soil, from rain water or snowdrifts affected the wooden elements of the frame house as little as possible.

Foundation for frame structure

Any construction starts with a foundation, and, as stated above, you can choose any of its types (except, perhaps, a monolithic "floating" plate - there is no need for it).

Marking of future construction and earthworks

Before proceeding with digging trenches under the foundation or screwing in piles, it is necessary to carefully mark the area. This work should not be considered secondary, since the straightness of future walls, and the total amount of work, will depend on it. So as not have to make excessive efforts to remake the foundation if its exact coordinates and dimensions are initially determined.

• Marking is carried out using a tape measure, a square, and other simple geodetic instruments. Usually it consists in installing wooden stakes with stretched cords, which visually show the size of the building and its location on the ground.

On this kind of "drawing" all the bearing walls of the building are determined in the event that a tape type of foundation is chosen. If you plan a columnar version or a pile-screw, then you need to mark the exact location of each of the pillars (supports).

• Trenches can be dug manually or, if you need to carry out this process quickly, use special construction equipment, with which the whole operation will take place in one day.
• For digging holes under columnar foundation use, in addition to shovels, an ordinary hand drill or a motor drill, which will allow you to drill holes of the desired diameter to the required depth much faster.

These methods are the most affordable, since if you invite large-sized equipment, then for it it is necessary, firstly, to have additional space on the site and free access to the place of work, and secondly, the cost of such drilling will cost many times more.

• At the stage of digging a pit, a sewer runoff is carried out. For laying pipes, trenches are dug below the level of soil freezing in a given region. Then pipes are laid to the place inside the pit, where, according to the plan, a bathroom or a ventilated sewer riser should be located.

If a columnar foundation is being arranged, then the pipe section passing from the ground level to the exit in the house must be carefully insulated. It is recommended to build brick walls around it, and fill the space between the pipe and them with insulation.

Of course, this work can be carried out after construction is completed, but in this case it will be inconvenient to do it - you will have to cut holes in the floor or cut through the foundation wall.

Foundation construction

In order to specifically dwell on one of the types of foundation, you need to understand what they are.

Strip foundation

This type of foundation is a concrete monolithic strip, which has a reinforcing lattice in its design. The height of the basement part can be different, but if there is a basement in the construction plan of the house, then the foundation walls are raised by 600 ÷ 800 mm, in which case they will require insulation. When preparing the formwork, one should not forget about the ventilation holes that will not allow moisture to accumulate under the structure.

"Classic" strip foundation

If you immediately provide for measures to combat rodents, of which there are always a lot outside the city, then it is recommended to make a backfill of fine-grained expanded clay around the foundation and inside it.

Column Foundation

1 - foundation pillar;

2 - strapping beams;

3 - floor beams;

4 - logs of the subfloor.

A columnar foundation is a set of concrete, brick or combined pillars arranged in the correct order, according to the markup. The supports are deepened depending on the types and location of the soil layers in the area and on the massiveness of the future structure.

Choosing a columnar foundation?

For a frame house on stable ground - a very good solution. All installation details can be found in a special article.

Pile screw foundation

The screw foundation consists of metal piles screwed to the required depth at the points, according to the markings made in accordance with the project. The upper part of the piles, protruding above the ground, is tied with a metal grillage or metal lintels, and then with a powerful beam. This will become the basis for bottom strapping the frame structure itself.

The pile-screw design is good in that the supports can be screwed in so that they protrude to different heights. This allows you to install the house not only on a flat area, but also on a rugged site, with a height difference - then it will not be difficult to bring the piles to one horizontal level. to one height.

You won’t be able to screw the screw piles on your own - you will either have to invite several assistants, or use the services of a team of craftsmen “armed” with special equipment.

Prices for cement and mixture bases

Cement and mixture bases

Frame erection

Whatever foundation is chosen, it must be on top waterproof- the platform (grillage, mounting plates or the upper edge of the posts or tape), on which the lower strapping beam will be installed, is covered with roofing material, which will create a moisture-proof gasket.

The roofing material spreads in several layers, preferably in a “hot” way on the tar mastic, and it must be 150 ÷ ​​200 mm more than the width of the foundation, since it must protrude from both sides.

Bottom trim

The strapping is made of a bar with a size of 150 × 150 or 200 × 150 mm. At the corners, the elements are connected “in half a tree”, the bars are securely twisted together and fixed on the supports (tape) of the foundation with the help of studs or anchor fasteners, depending on what type of base is chosen and what material it is built from.

Additionally, the strapping beams are fastened together with corners or other metal elements, for example, plates. The same parts can be used to attach the strapping to the foundation.

At the end of these works, a rigid strapping belt should be obtained that can withstand the main structure of the frame. In the case when the beam used does not have the proper size in cross section, two, and sometimes three parts are stacked one on top of the other.

And, the top beam of the strapping is mounted on the bottom beam so that the possible butt joints, if any, do not fall one above the other.

If the wooden strapping is mounted on a strip foundation, then it may not be too thick, but it is very important that its width matches the width of the concrete base.

Basement beams and flooring

Basement beams

The strength qualities of the frame to the maximum extent depend on the quality and cross-section of the strapping beams and floor beams. It is clear that they are trying to select first-class material. But the cross section depends on the length of the spans, and on the step of the location of the parts. To correctly determine the size, you can use the following table:

Cross-section table of beams of floor beams for a frame building:

The section of the used lumber of the 1st grade	span length (mm)
	3000	3500	4000	4500	5000	5500	6000
Attic floor
Board
160×50	1200	900	650	500	420	-	-
200×50	1850	1350	1050	800	650	550	450
180×80	2400	1750	1350	1050	850	700	600
bar	Distance between adjacent beams (mm)
140×180	-	-	-	1800	1480	1200	1050
150×200	-	-	-	2400	2000	1650	1400
160×220	-	-	-	-	2500	2000	1750
Basement and interfloor ceilings
Board	Distance between adjacent beams (mm)
160×50	800	600	450	-	-	-	-
200×50	1250	900	700	550	450	-	-
180×80	1200	1200	900	700	650	450	-
bar	Distance between adjacent beams (mm)
140×180	-	-	1550	1200	1300	800	700
150×200	-	-	-	1650	1700	1000	900
160×220	-	-	-	2000	1900	1400	1100

• The next step is to fix the basement beams. They, as a rule, have the same cross-sectional size as the strapping bars. The connection of the floor beams with the strapping belt is carried out “in half a tree”, for which gashes are made in both elements.

The beams must give the structure of the future floor rigidity and reliability. Therefore, if the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe building is large enough, then often the basement beams are laid on the strapping belt for each of the rooms separately.

• After the installation of the basement beams is completed, for further work flooring is required. And here, many masters themselves prefer and advise beginners to immediately arrange floors, both rough and “white” (of course, not counting the finishing decorative coating). However, with this option of work, it is necessary to provide that the entire floor area will need to be covered daily with a solid sheet of dense polyethylene film until the entire structure is protected from precipitation by the roof and walls.
• All parts of the lower belt are covered with antiseptic and water-repellent impregnation - this measure will extend the life of the building.

• At the same stage, it is necessary to raise the sewer pipe above the floor surface by 100 ÷ 150 mm. To do this, in each layer of the floor covering, it is necessary to make holes through which the sewer pipe will be passed.

subfloor flooring

• To lay the subfloor, cranial bars are screwed onto the lower parts of the floor beams, on which boards or plywood sheets will be fixed.
• Next is the laying and fixing of the boards. For this, it is not at all necessary to purchase first-class material, but it must be well dried. It is recommended to install the boards close to each other - this will add insulation to the floor, since the structure will be less blown through.

Installation of the insulating "pie" of the floor

• At the next stage, the subfloor and floor beams are covered with a waterproofing membrane, which is used as dense polyethylene. It is usually attached with staples.
• Further, mats are laid on the waterproofing or expanded clay is poured, which is no less effective than other materials. If it is planned to make several layers of insulation, then the first of them is recommended to use fine-grained expanded clay.

• A layer of vapor barrier film is laid on top of the insulation, and then either a floorboard or sheet material is fixed to the beams. For this, plywood or OSB is often used.

AT recent times instead of plywood, cement-bonded particle boards are often used, which can be used not only for flooring, but also for walls and ceilings. The material has good technical and operational characteristics, is not inferior, but in some ways even surpasses its “competitors”.

The table below shows comparative estimates indicators of some sheet materials that They will give you a rough idea of ​​​​them and help you make a choice.

Characteristics	Evaluation of the material on a 5-point system
Average score	2.9	3	3.3	3.6	4.1
	MDF	Chipboard	Plywood	OSB	DSP
Strength	2	3	4	4	4
Resistance to external aggressive influences	1	2	3	5	5
Dimensional stability	2	3	3	3	4
The weight	2	2	3	3	2
Manufacturability of machining	3	4	4	5	5
Manufacturability of coloring	5	3	3	2	4
Defects: knots, delamination, delamination, etc.	5	4	3	5	5

Sheets of material covering the floor are screwed with self-tapping screws to the floor beams. If the insulation is provided in two layers, then logs are nailed on top of the beams, between which the second layer of insulation is laid. Then everything is the same - a vapor barrier is laid, and plywood or another coating is already fixed on the logs.

It should be noted that instead of the last vapor barrier layer, roofing material sheets are often overlapped by 150 ÷ ​​200 mm, which are fastened together with mastic in a “hot” way.

The erection of the wall frame, the upper trim

After you have finished with the lower belt, you can proceed to the construction of the frame of the walls. First of all, it is necessary to install the corner posts, which usually have a larger cross section than the intermediate ones.

• Racks must be fixed according to pre-made markings, at a distance of 600 mm from each other - this is the standard width of insulation mats, but if necessary, they can be placed with a different step, for example, 400 mm. You can fix the intermediate racks, as well as the corner ones, in different ways:
• Racks can first be fixed using metal corners, and then jumpers can be installed between them, which will create structural rigidity.

• Another option is to install the racks on the strapping belt while the floor is already installed, or before it is installed.

- If fastening is carried out after the floor is laid, then grooves are cut near the floor beams. Racks are installed in them and fixed to the beam and strapping with self-tapping screws.

- In the event that the racks are attached before the installation of the floor, then this can be done with the help of an additional part - a piece of timber, which is screwed with self-tapping screws to inside racks and strapping beams.

- The third option is the installation of racks with diagonal supports (slopes), which are installed on both sides and screwed with screws or nailed.

- The fourth way of fastening the racks can be complete or incomplete cutting of the rack into a strapping or into an additional reinforcing beam nailed perpendicular to the floor beams.

• When installing racks, you can not forget about window and door openings. They are designated by transverse bars, which, for rigidity, are supported from above and below by additional reinforcing racks. Spacer bars will give the structure additional rigidity.

• Each of the racks with the greatest care is calibrated vertically in two planes with the help of building level. Then they are all fastened together with temporary jumper rails that will fix them in the correct position.

• When the racks are rigid enough, they must be combined with an upper trim, which is nailed to the ends of the racks, and then additionally fixed with corners or spacer slopes, fixed diagonally.

• The top rail beams must be the same width as the uprights. Special attention is paid to their reliable fastening, since they will become the basis for the beams of the attic floor and, therefore, the entire truss system as a whole.
• In order for the structure of the wall frame to be strong, after installing the top trim, it is recommended to immediately sheathe the outside with plywood or other selected sheet material. Sheets are mounted on self-tapping screws to vertical racks.

Prices for various types of timber

Video - The worst mistakes in the construction of a frame house

Attic beams and roof structure

After the strength and stability of the wall frame is no longer a concern, it is possible to install attic floor beams.

• They are fixed exactly above the racks of the wall frame. If boards are prepared as a material for this, then they are installed on the end, having previously made cuts in them for 1/3 of the width of the board, and the depth of the cut should be equal to the width of the beam or top trim board.

Fastening is carried out using a metal corner, which is screwed to the strapping on one side, and on the beam with the other. Fasteners are installed on both sides of the beam.

• Next, you can proceed to the installation of the truss system. True, it is advisable to immediately install at least a temporary flooring on the beams of the attic floor, along which it will be possible to move in the process of work.

Prices for different types of tiles

Roof tiles

Video - 11 important rules for the rigidity of a frame house

Insulation and finishing works

After to to the roof over the house is erected, it is necessary to install external windows and doors. This process is carried out before insulation work in order to be able to simultaneously close all the cracks and gaps that may be formed during the installation of window and door blocks. After that, you can proceed to the insulation of walls, attic floors and roofs.

Walls can be insulated both inside and outside. For this, thermal insulation materials are used, which have already been mentioned in our publication.

• In the event that the walls are sheathed on the outside with plywood, then it is installed between the racks from the inside, which then must be closed from above with a vapor barrier film.

• For additional insulation, thermal insulation materials are also mounted on the outside of the walls. To do this, a crate is screwed to them, between the bars of which the selected insulation is laid or applied.

A windproof, vapor barrier film is fixed on top of the insulation.

• Insulation of the attic floor is carried out in approximately the same way as the basement:

- cranial bars are screwed onto the floor beams;

- a draft floor is laid on them;

- the floor is covered with waterproofing;

- then comes the insulation material (expanded clay, mineral wool, sawdust, ecowool, expanded polystyrene, etc.);

- the insulation is covered with waterproofing from above;

- boards or plywood of the "white" floor of the attic are mounted on top of it.

• It is also better to insulate the roof slopes, since most of the heat leaves through the ceilings and the roof. To do this, a heater is laid between the rafters, which is closed with a vapor barrier from the side of the attic, and then all layers are sheathed with clapboard, plywood, cement-shaving sheets or moisture-resistant drywall.

Sheathing can be fixed to the rafters or to an additionally screwed horizontal crate.

• Having finished the insulation work, you can proceed to the outer skin of the house with decorative material. It can be chosen for every taste - it can be vinyl or metal siding, wooden lining, "block house" or other modern materials.

Sheathing with siding with insulation - the solution to several problems at the same time!

The facade of the building acquires reliable thermal insulation, protection from weather phenomena, and the house itself - completeness, accuracy and individuality.

How - read in a special publication of our portal.

• The interior lining can also be made in different ways:

- drywall, making perfectly smooth walls for painting or wallpapering;

- wooden clapboard, which makes the house cozy and brings natural freshness to it;

- plywood, which can also be prepared for painting or wallpaper.

Interior decoration of the frame house - at the request of the owners

At the end of the finishing work, around windows and doors are mounted decorative panels- slopes and platbands.

If a veranda or terrace was not planned in the project, then they can be attached after all work is completed, but it is better, of course, to build together with the walls.

Electricity can be mounted both inside the walls, even at the stage of installing the frame, and after the completion of the sheathing with decorative material. The latter method of installation has been used more and more recently, as it is safer and allows, if necessary, to carry out repair work without opening the decorative finish. However, modern technology allows you to use other options.

Electrical wiring in wooden house- Special attention!

Say what you like, but the fire hazard of a wooden house is always higher than a stone one. No "liberties" in the installation of electricians are simply unacceptable!

How to mount it correctly is described in detail in a special article of the portal.

If a decision is made to start building a frame house, you need to remember that this will require a lot of free time, although incomparably less than with other buildings. The work will certainly go more fun and faster if there is a reliable and knowledgeable assistant nearby, and preferably several. In this scenario, it is quite possible to build a house in one summer season.

The main thing is to act in accordance with the construction process technological instructions when performing all types of work, perform them neatly, smoothly and consistently.

And in conclusion, to complete the overall picture - a video lecture on the main advantages and disadvantages frame houses.

Prices for thermal insulation materials

Thermal insulation materials

Video: frame house - "pros" and "cons"

Filimonov Evgeny

Reading time: 9 minutes

A A

What is the technology of building a frame house, types frame structures, stages of work, variety of materials, advantages and disadvantages of frame structures.

Having opted for a wooden structure, you need to learn more about the technology of building a frame house. Pros and cons of frame houses.

Features of the construction of the foundation, roof, internal and external finishing works. What is the basis of the Canadian and Finnish technology for the construction of frame structures.
How to properly mount the floor and bottom trim, correct floor insulation, installation step and section of the racks. How to correctly create even corners of a frame house.

What you need to know about roofing. Features of the installation of the truss system and the choice of roofing material.

Do I need to insulate the house, is there a need for vapor barrier construction. Kinds frame construction. Features of German and half-timbered houses. Construction of frame-frame and frame-panel houses. Structural elements of a frame house. Methods for mounting wooden and metal frame, as well as LSTK technology. Roof types. Stages of construction on frame-frame technology. Mistakes of incorrect self-building and their consequences.

Technological progress in construction is moving in huge leaps. Therefore, at the moment, there are a huge number of technologies and instructions for building houses, including several technologies for building frame houses and step-by-step instructions for them.

If you decide to build a smart house with your own hands, then you probably already have a choice of which technology to use.

If you have chosen to build frame houses, then you should pay attention to the instructions for Finnish and Canadian house building technology. But before you start building a house with your own hands, using the same Canadian or Finnish technology, you need to familiarize yourself with the positive and negative sides of do-it-yourself frame houses. So let's start with this.

Among the advantages of do-it-yourself frame houses, it is worth noting: of this type houses, refers to prefabricated buildings. An attentive and quick-witted person will be able to complete the construction of a small house with his own hands in just 3 months. Availability of technology - for the construction of a frame house in stages, you do not need special tools, equipment or overly complicated instructions.

Materials for construction - the construction of frame houses in stages, is carried out from ordinary commercial wood or from other materials that are available on the market. Ubiquity - the weight of finished frame houses, very rarely exceeds the figure of 20 tons. This means that you can build it yourself, on almost any soil.

Since the weight of frame houses is very small, there is no need to significantly deepen the foundation into the ground. Thermal conductivity - heating a house does not take significant costs, and with proper insulation, the temperature in the house can last up to 7 hours.

Despite a significant number of advantages, the construction of frame houses with their own hands has a number of disadvantages: Low-rise - a person building a frame house with his own hands for the first time will only be able to build a one-story house, with a maximum of a residential attic. The construction of 2-3 storey houses requires experience and favorable conditions.

Expert opinion

Filimonov Evgeny

Professional builder. 20 years of experience

Ask an expert

Frame houses are practically not suitable for the construction of apartment buildings.

An insufficiently developed regulatory framework - obtaining a permit for the construction of an individual frame house is not so easy, however, you can take permission for an already well-run project, and arrange it as a small self-construction like country houses.

High danger in case of fire - (do not confuse this concept with a fire hazard) - if a fire does start, then the materials of the house, in particular the cladding, will emit a huge amount of heat and toxic gases. The operating time of frame houses, on average, is calculated only for one generation of residents. In case of natural disasters, the collapse of the house will be quick and catastrophic.

Foundation

In principle, a wisely built frame house will withstand almost any type of foundation with its own hands, however, in most cases, we are guided by the price and ease of installation, as well as the type of soil on which construction will be carried out. Plus, it is desirable that in this place it would be possible to build a stronger house, make extensions or add-ons, which necessitates the so-called binding of the foundation to the house.

When choosing a type of foundation, you should be guided by the following factors:

1. If you are going to build a house on soft ground, a slab shallowly buried foundation is best. For your future rebuilding or rebuilding, an insulated Swedish stove will be the most suitable. This type of foundation was designed specifically for the construction of frame houses, although it can also cope with one-story brick houses. For a small, light country house, a metal foundation foundation, on screw piles, is quite suitable.
2. If the soil at the site of your construction normally transfers the load, but is rather heaving, then it is worth using a pile-strip foundation with shallow reinforced concrete grillages.
3. In case of medium heaving soil- it is best to use a columnar foundation with a normal depth, brick plinth and plinth lintels.
4. In places of weakly heaving soil, you can use a tape shallowly buried foundation or columnar, as with medium heaving soil.

Walls

A step-by-step instruction for installing the walls of a frame house consists of several stages. First, corner vertical racks are installed. As racks, you should use the same boards that were used in the lower knitting. Further, a beam is installed on pre-prepared pins, with the help of plumb lines it must be aligned along the outer edges and vertical.

All vertical racks are installed in the same way, with a recommended step of 60cm. After the completion of the lower strapping, the turn comes after the upper one. Installation of the upper and lower trim should be carried out using the same technology and from the same material.

During the installation of the bars at the vertical rack, 2 nails should be used at each end, and all diagonals should be carefully monitored so that possible distortions of the frame can be corrected in time.
After completing the process of the upper and lower strapping, you should check everything again, and fix the racks with special jibs and corners.

Frame houses are very popular with developers. This is due to the fact that they are built in short terms, require a minimum Money, have excellent performance characteristics and are environmentally friendly.

If someone has a desire to start building just such a house, then in this article you can get information on how to do this. Everything is listed here in stages. At the same time, it means that all preparatory, and most importantly, organizational measures have been taken and permission has been received to build a house. What does that require?

The foundation is chosen at will and can be columnar, pile-screw, tape, etc. This article discusses an example of building a frame house with a pile-screw type of foundation.

This type of foundation is suitable for those areas where there is loose or unstable soil. This type of foundation has a number of advantages, such as:

• There is no need to involve special equipment for its construction.
• The foundation is being built in a short time: one day is enough to mount it.
• Huge selection building material(piles).
• The foundation has excellent bearing characteristics.
• This is a cheap foundation option compared to other types of foundations.
• The foundation is mounted at any time of the year.

On a note! The presence of a pile-screw foundation does not allow equipping a basement in the house. This is a significant disadvantage of this option.

How to calculate the number of piles?

Piles must have the correct geometric shape and high-quality blades. Suitable piles can be selected from the corresponding table.

Screw pile (pipe diameter)	Installation step	Application
219	3-10	Houses, piers, hangars
159	2-5	Similarly
133	2-5	Similarly
108	2-5	Heavy gates, piers, hangars, houses, fences
89	2-4	Can be used as additional piles, for houses, hozblok
76	1-3	Light buildings, terraces, signs, traffic signs
59	0.5-2	Similarly

On a note! In conditions where the soil is clayey, work should be carried out in dry, not rainy weather. Piles are installed strictly vertically.

In the case of using piles of large thickness, you will have to use the help of special equipment. If you choose piles of the optimal diameter, then you can do it yourself. In this case, it is much easier to determine the same level of installation of piles.

To begin with, the necessary marking is carried out on the site and the site is being prepared. It is desirable that it be horizontally even and could serve as a kind of guideline for the depth of piles.

The next step is to determine the perimeter of the future foundation. To do this, metal rods are hammered into its corners, after which a rope is pulled between them. It is necessary to check that the future foundation has right angles.

First of all, piles are installed at the corners to a depth of at least 0.5 meters. Although it all depends on the type of soil. It is better to install piles together: one screw them in, and the second controls the verticality. Having installed the piles at the corners of the building, they begin to install intermediate piles, which can be located at a distance of 0.7-1.2 meters from one another. All piles are screwed to the required depth, after which they are leveled, concreted and the heads are mounted on the piles.

For this operation, bars of 150x150 mm, 200x200 mm and 200x250 mm will fit. Before laying the beams, the tops of the piles are smeared with mastic and a couple of layers of roofing material are laid. This is the so-called waterproofing. The bars should be treated with an antiseptic.

The beams are mounted around the entire perimeter of the future building and are interconnected into half a tree, using nails 120 mm long. All joints are reinforced with corners, which are fastened with nails 50-60 mm long.

The bars are attached to the base with screws, while they fit into special heads and are well attracted by screws.

A board is laid on top of the strapping on the bars, which will block the joints of the bars. In the future, vertical racks of the future frame will be mounted on this board. The board is nailed to the beam with nails 100-120 mm long.

The draft floor is mounted on logs measuring 100 by 150 mm, installed every 0.6 meters. The logs are connected to the strapping by means of metal corners, after which a board is nailed on top of the logs.

A heater is laid in the openings between the lags, and a vapor barrier film is spread on it. After that, everything is covered with plywood. Plywood is taken thick and fastened to the logs. In order for the floor to be even, the logs must be installed in the same horizontal plane.

For mounting the frame, bars of the following sizes are taken: 100x50 mm, 150x50 mm, 200x50 mm. First of all, vertical racks are installed at the corners of the structure. They are fastened securely with reinforced metal corners. After that, proceed to the installation of the remaining racks, which are attached in the same way as the corner racks. All racks are attached to the jibs, which minimize the loosening of the structure.

The upper beam is connected at the corners by cutting, and to other vertical posts with the help of corners. For greater strength, diagonal slopes are installed.

They can be installed in three ways:

• Through cutting.
• With perforated brackets.
• With metal corners.

Alternatively, it is recommended to combine several methods at the same time. This can be a cutting option and an option to use corners. Beams are installed directly on the beam of the upper trim. Fastening can be done with self-tapping screws, but it is better to use nails, since they allow the wood to expand freely when humidity changes.

Roof installation is a rather time-consuming operation, which is worthy of a description in a separate article.

To do this, there is a wide range of facing materials on sale, such as siding, timber simulator, artificial stone, etc. Work is carried out in the following order:

• At the first stage, a crate made of a wooden beam measuring 40x50 mm is installed. The pitch of the crate is 0.6 m. Alternatively, the CD-60 metal profile from drywall systems will go.
• If the crate is made of wood, then it is desirable to cover it with an antiseptic and fire-resistant material.
• After the crate is ready, proceed to the installation of the facing material.

In the process of work, one should not forget about the insulation of a residential building. As a rule, everything is subject to insulation: floor, roof and walls. Do not forget about the vapor barrier film.

The building is almost ready, it only remains to carry out the interior decoration of the living space. Here you can take advantage of many options, especially since each room requires its own approach. And rooms such as a bathroom and a kitchen are subject to exceptional types of finishes.

Photo report of building a frame house on your own

Here you can see in stages, the construction of a frame house with your own hands on weekends.

Have you ever encountered the fact that in discussions on the forums the topic of the “right” or “wrong” frame house pops up? Often people are poked with their noses at the fact that the frame is wrong, but it is hard to explain clearly why it is wrong and how it should be. In this article I will try to explain what is usually hidden behind the concept of a “correct” frame, which is the basis of a frame house, just like a human skeleton. In the future, I hope, we will consider other aspects.

Surely you know that the foundation is the foundation of the house. This is true, but the frame house has another basis - no less important than the foundation. This is the frame itself.

Which frame house is “correct”?

I'll start with the main one. Why is it so difficult to talk about the right frame house? because the only correct correct frame house does not exist. What a surprise, isn't it? 🙂

You will ask why? Yes, very simple. A frame house is a large constructor with many solutions. And there are many decisions that can be called correct. There are even more decisions - “semi-correct”, but there are a legion of “wrong” ones.

Nevertheless, among the variety of solutions, one can single out those that are usually meant when speaking of “correctness”. This is a frame of the American and, more rarely, Scandinavian type.

Why are they considered examples of “correctness”? Everything is very simple. The vast majority of private homes for permanent residence in America, and a very significant percentage in Scandinavia, are built using frame technology. This technology has been used there for more than a dozen and perhaps even a hundred years. During this time, all possible cones were filled, all possible options were sorted out and a certain universal scheme was found that says: do this and with a probability of 99.9% you will be fine. Moreover, this scheme is the optimal solution for several characteristics at once:

1. Structural reliability of solutions.
2. Optimal labor costs during construction.
3. Optimal cost of materials.
4. Good thermal performance.

Why step on your own rake if you can use the experience of people who have already stepped on this rake? Why reinvent the wheel if it has already been invented?

Remember. Whenever we are talking about the “correct” frame or about the “correct” nodes of a frame house, then, as a rule, this means standard solutions and nodes used in America and Scandinavia. And the frame itself satisfies all the above criteria.

What frameworks can be called “semi-regular”? Basically, these are those that differ from the typical Scandinavian-American solutions, but, nevertheless, also satisfy at least two criteria - reliable design and good solutions in terms of heat engineering.

Well, I would classify all the rest as “wrong”. Moreover, their “incorrectness” is often conditional. It is not at all a fact that the “wrong” frame will necessarily fall apart. Such a scenario is actually extremely rare, although it does occur. Basically, the “wrongness” lies in some controversial and not the best decisions. As a result, it becomes difficult where it can be done easier. More material is used where less is possible. A colder or more inconvenient design for subsequent work is made than it could be.

The main drawback of the “wrong” frames is that they do not give absolutely any gains compared to the “correct” or “semi-correct” ones - neither in reliability, nor in cost, nor in labor costs ... nothing at all.

Or these advantages are far-fetched and generally questionable. In extreme cases (and there are some), improper framing can be dangerous and result in a home needing a major overhaul in just a few years.

Now let's look at the issue in more detail.

Key Features of the American Frame

The American frame is practically a standard. It is simple, strong, functional and reliable as an iron saw. It is easy to assemble, it has a large margin of safety.

Americans are tight-fisted guys, and if they manage to save a couple of thousand dollars on a construction site, they will definitely do it. At the same time, they will not be able to stoop to outright hack-work, since there is strict control in the construction industry, insurance companies will refuse to pay out in case of problems, and the customers of would-be builders will quickly sue and rip negligent contractors like sticky.

Therefore, the American frame can be called the standard in terms of the ratio: price, reliability, result.

American frame is simple and reliable

Let's take a closer look at the main points that distinguish the American wireframe scheme:

Typical nodes of a frame house

Beam in racks and harnesses is almost never used, unless it is due to some specific conditions. Therefore, the first thing that distinguishes the “correct” frame house is the use of dry lumber and the absence of timber in the walls. By this criterion alone, you can discard 80% of Russian companies and teams operating in the frame market.

Moments that distinguish the American frame:

1. Corners - There are several different ways to implement corners, but nowhere do you see a beam as a corner post.
2. Double or triple racks in the area of ​​window and door openings.
3. The amplifier above the openings is a board mounted on an edge. The so-called "header" (from the English header).
4. Double top strapping from the board, no timber.
5. The overlap of the lower and upper rows of strapping at key points - corners, different fragments of walls, junctions of internal partitions to external walls.

Ukosina I specifically did not note as a distinctive moment. Since in the American style, in the presence of sheathing with OSB3 boards (OSB) on the frame, there is no need for jibs. The plate can be considered as an infinite number of jibs.

Let's talk in more detail about the key features of the correct frame in the American version.

Correct corners of the frame house

In fact, on the Internet, even in the American segment, you can find about a dozen schemes. But most of them are outdated and rarely used, especially in cold regions. I will highlight three main angle patterns. Although realistically, only the first two are the main ones.

Knots of the corners of the frame house

1. Option 1 - the so-called "California" corner. The most common option. Why "California" - I have no idea :). From the inside, another board or strip of OSB is nailed to the extreme rack of one of the walls. As a result, a shelf is formed on the inside of the corner, which later serves as a support for the interior decoration or any inner layers of the wall.
2. Option 2 - closed corner. Also one of the most popular. The bottom line is an additional rack in order to make a shelf on the inner corner. Of the advantages: the quality of the insulation of the corner is better than in option 1. Among the disadvantages: such a corner can only be insulated from the outside, that is, this must be done before sheathing the frame with something from the outside (plates, membrane, etc.)
3. Option 3 - "Scandinavian" warm corner. A very rare variant, not used in America. I saw it in Scandinavian frames, but not often. Why did I bring him then? Because, in my opinion, this is the warmest version of the corner. And I'm thinking about starting to apply it to our facilities. But before using it, you need to think, since it is structurally inferior to the first two and will not work everywhere.

What is the peculiarity of all these three options and why is a beam a bad option for a corner?

Angle from a bar, the most losing option

If you notice - in all three options from the boards, the corner can be insulated. Somewhere more, somewhere less. In the case of a beam in the corner, we immediately have 2 drawbacks: firstly, from the point of view of heat engineering, such a corner will be the coldest. Secondly, if there is a beam in the corner, then there are no “shelves” from the inside to attach the interior trim to it.

Of course, the last question can be solved. But remember what I said about “wrong” wireframes? Why make it difficult when you can make it easier? Why make a beam, creating a bridge of cold and thinking how to attach the finish to it later, if you can make a warm corner from the boards? Despite the fact that this will not affect the amount of material or the complexity of the work.

Openings and top trim are the most significant difference between the American frame scheme and the Scandinavian one, but more on that later. So, when they talk about the correct openings in the frame, they usually talk about the following scheme (window and door openings are made according to the same principle).

Correct openings in a frame house

The first thing (1) that people usually pay attention to when talking about “wrong” openings is the double and even triple posts on the sides of the opening. It is often believed that this is necessary for some kind of strengthening of the opening to install a window or door. Actually this is not true. A window or door will be fine on single racks. Why then do we need cohesive boards?

Everything is elementary. Remember, I said that the American frame is as simple and reliable as an iron saw? Pay attention to figure 2. And you will understand that cohesive racks are needed solely to support the elements lying on them. So that the edges of these elements do not hang on nails. Simple, reliable and versatile.

In Figure 3 - one of the simplified varieties, when the bottom trim of the window crashes into a broken rack. But at the same time, both window trims still have supports at the edges.

Therefore, it is impossible to speak formally about the fact that if the racks are not doubled, then this is “wrong”. They can also be single, as in the Scandinavian frame. Rather, it is a mistake when the posts along the edges of the openings are cohesive, but do not bear the load from the elements based on them. In this case, they are simply meaningless.

In this case, the horizontal elements are hanging on the fasteners, so there is no point in doubling or tripling the racks on the sides.

Now let's talk about an element that is already more critical and the absence of which can be considered as an "irregularity" of the opening. This is the “header” above the opening (header).

Window header

This is the really important element. As a rule, some kind of load will come from above to the window or doorway - the logs of the second floor, the rafter system. And the wall itself is weakened by deflection in the area of ​​the opening. Therefore, local reinforcements are made in the openings. American style is headers. In fact, this is a board mounted on an edge above the opening. Here it is already important that the edges of the header either rest on the posts (if the classic American scheme with cohesive posts of openings is used), or be cut into the extreme posts, if they are single. Moreover, the cross section of the header directly depends on the loads and dimensions of the opening. The larger the opening and the stronger the load on it, the more powerful the header. It can also be double, triple, increased in height, etc. Again, it depends on the load. But, as a rule, for openings up to 1.5 m wide, a header from a 45x195 board is enough.

Is the absence of a header a sign that the framework is “wrong”? Yes and no. If you act according to the American principle of “simple and reliable”, then the header must be present at every opening. Do this and be sure of the result.

But in fact, you need to dance from the load falling on the opening from above. For example, a narrow window in a one-story house and rafters in this section of the wall are located along the edges of the opening - the load from above on the opening is minimal and you can do without a header.

Therefore, the issue of the header should be treated as follows. If it exists, great. If it is not there, then the builders (contractor) must clearly explain why, in their opinion, it is not needed here, and it will depend, first of all, on the load falling on the opening zone from above.

Double top harness

Double plank top piping, also a distinctive feature of the American frame

Double top harness

The double strapping again gives reinforcement along the top of the wall for deflection from the load from above - the load from the ceiling, rafters, etc. In addition, pay attention to the overlaps of the second row of strapping.

1. Overlap in the corner - we tie together two perpendicular walls.
2. Overlap in the center - we tie together 2 sections of one wall.
3. Overlap on the partition - we tie together the partition with the outer wall.

Thus, the double strapping also performs the second task - ensuring the integrity of the entire wall structure.

In the domestic version, you can often find the upper trim of the timber. And this, again, is not the best solution. Firstly, the beam is thicker than the double strapping. Yes, it may be better for deflection, but it’s not a fact that it is necessary, but the cold bridge at the top of the wall will be more significant. Well, it’s more difficult to implement this overlap to ensure the integrity of the entire structure. Therefore, we return again to the fact that why is it difficult to do, if you can make it easier and more reliable?

Proper jib in a frame house

Another cornerstone. Surely you have come across the phrase “the jibs are made incorrectly”. Let's talk about it. First, what is a slug? This is a diagonal element in the wall, which provides spatial shear rigidity in the lateral plane. Because thanks to the jib, a system of triangular structures appears, and the triangle is the most stable geometric figure.

So, when they talk about the correct jib, then usually we are talking about this option:

Correct jib

Why is such a jib called “correct” and what should I pay attention to?

1. Such a jib is installed with an angle of 45 to 60 degrees - this is the most stable triangle. Of course, the angle may be different, but it is this range that is best.
2. The jib cuts into the upper and lower trim, and does not just rest against the rack - this is quite an important point, so we tie the structure together.
3. The jib crashes into every post in its path.
4. For each node - adjoining to the harness or rack, there must be at least two fastening points. Since one point will give a “hinge” with a certain degree of freedom.
5. The jib cuts into the rib - this way it works better in the structure and interferes less with insulation.

And here is an example of the most “wrong” jib. But nevertheless, it occurs all the time.

It's just a board stuck into the first opening of the frame. What is so “wrong” about it, because formally it is also a triangle?

1. First - a very small angle of inclination.
2. Secondly, in such a plane, the jib board works the worst.
3. Thirdly, it is difficult to fix such a jib to the wall.
4. Fourthly, pay attention to the fact that extremely inconvenient cavities for insulation are formed at the points of junction with the frame. Even if the jib is carefully cut and there is no gap at the end, there is no escape from an acute angle, and it is not an easy task to insulate such an angle with high quality, so most likely it will be done somehow.

Another example, also common. This is a jib cut into the posts, but not cut into the harness.

The jib is not embedded in the harness

This option is already much better than the previous one, but, nevertheless, such a jib will work worse than embedded in the strapping, and after all, the work is 5 minutes more. And if, moreover, it is fixed to each rack with only one nail, then the effect of it will also be minimized.

We won’t even consider options for all sorts of small inferior “braces and braces” that do not reach from the top trim to the bottom.

Formally, even the most crooked jib makes at least some contribution. But once again: why do it your way when a good solution already exists?

On this we will finish with the American frame and move on to the Scandinavian one.

Correct scandinavian frame

Unlike America, where the frames are practically standardized and there are very few differences, there are more variations in Scandinavia. Here you can find both the classic American frame and hybrid versions. The Scandinavian frame, in fact, is the development and modernization of the American one. However, basically, when they talk about the Scandinavian frame, we are talking about such a design.

Typical Scandinavian house set

scandinavian frame

Corners, jibs - everything is like the Americans. What to pay attention to?

1. Single strapping on the top of the wall.
2. Power crossbar embedded in racks throughout the wall.
3. Single racks on window and door openings.

In fact, the main difference is this very “Scandinavian” crossbar - it replaces both American headers and double strapping, being a powerful power element.

What, in my opinion, is the advantage of the Scandinavian frame over the American one? The fact that it has a much greater emphasis on minimizing all kinds of cold bridges, which are almost all cohesive boards (double strapping, opening racks). Indeed, between each cohesive boards, a gap can potentially form over time, which you may never know about. Well, it's one thing when the cold bridge has the width of one board and another question - when there are already two or three of them.

Of course, you should not get hung up on cold bridges. You can’t get away from them anyway, and in fact, their importance is often exaggerated. But, nevertheless, they exist, and if it is possible to minimize them relatively painlessly, why not do it?

The Scandinavians in general, unlike the Americans, are very confused about energy saving. The colder, northern climate and expensive energy sources also have an effect. But in terms of climate, Scandinavia is much closer to us (I'm talking primarily about the Northwestern region) than most American states.

The disadvantage of the Scandinavian frame is its slightly greater complexity, at least in the fact that in all racks you need to make cuts under the crossbar. And the fact that, unlike the American one, it still requires some kind of mental effort. For example: on large openings, double posts to support horizontal elements, and additional crossbars and headers may be required. And somewhere, for example, on the gable walls of one-story buildings, where there is no load from the log or roof, the crossbar may not even be required.

In general, the Scandinavian frame has certain advantages, but requires a little more effort and intelligence than the American one. If the American frame can be assembled with completely disabled brains, then in the Scandinavian one it is better to turn them on, at least on the minimum mode.

"Semi-correct" frames

Let me remind you that by “semi-correct” I mean precisely those that have every right to exist, but differ from typical Scandinavian-American solutions. Therefore, calling them “semi-correct” should be cautious.

I will give a few examples.

An example of how you can "override"

The first example is from our own practice. This house was built by us, but according to the project provided by the customer. We even wanted to redo the project completely, but we were limited by the deadlines, since we had to go to the site; in addition, the customer paid a tangible amount for the project and formally there are no structural violations, but he resigned himself to the voiced shortcomings of the current solution.

Why, then, did I classify this frame as “semi-correct”? Pay attention to the fact that here there are Scandinavian crossbars, and American headers, and double strapping not only along the top, but also along the bottom of the walls. In short, here is the American scheme, and the Scandinavian one, and another 30% of the stock in Russian is thrown on top, just in case. Well, the prefabricated rack of 6 (!!!) boards under the glued beam of the ridge speaks for itself. After all, in this place the only insulation is isoplats from the outside, and cross-insulation from the inside. And if there was a purely American scheme, then there would simply be no insulation in this section of the wall, a bare piece of wood from the outside to the inside.

I call this frame “semi-correct” because from the point of view of constructive reliability, there are no complaints about it. There is a multiple margin of safety "in case of an atomic war." But the abundance of cold bridges, and a huge overrun of material for the frame, and high labor costs, which also affects the price.

This house could be made with a smaller, but sufficient margin of safety, but at the same time reduce the amount of lumber by 30 percent and significantly reduce the number of cold bridges, making the house warmer.

Another example is a “double-volume” framework promoted by a Moscow company.

The main difference is actually a double outer wall, with posts spaced apart from each other. So the frame fully satisfies the strength criteria and is very good from the point of view of heat engineering, due to the minimization of cold bridges, but loses in manufacturability. The task of eliminating cold bridges, which, first of all, is solved by such a frame, can be solved by simpler, more reliable and correct methods such as “cross-insulation”.

And, curiously, usually “semi-correct” frames somehow have Scandinavian-American solutions in them. And the differences are rather in an attempt to improve the good. But it often happens that it turns out that “the best is the enemy of the good”.

Such frameworks can safely be called “semi-correct” precisely because there are no gross violations here. There are differences from the typical American-Scandinavian decisions in attempts to improve something or come up with some kind of “trick”. To pay for them or not is the choice of the customer.

"Wrong" frame houses

Now let's talk about the "wrong" frames. The most typical, I would even say, collective, case is presented in the photo below.

The quintessence of "correct" frame housing construction

What can be immediately noted in this photo?

1. Total use of natural moisture material. Moreover, the material is massive, which dries out the most and changes its geometry in the process of shrinkage.
2. The beam in the corners and on the strapping and even on the racks are cold bridges and inconvenience in further work.
3. Lack of headers and reinforcements of openings.
4. Do not understand how the jib is made, poorly fulfilling its role and interfering with insulation.
5. Assembly on corners with black self-tapping screws, the purpose of which is to fasten the plasterboard during finishing (and not use in load-bearing structures).

The photo above shows almost the quintessence of what is commonly called the “wrong” frame or “RSK”. The abbreviation RSK appeared in 2008 at the FH, at the suggestion of one builder who presented a similar product to the world, called the Russian Power Frame. Over time, as people began to figure out what was what, this abbreviation began to be deciphered as Russian Strashen Karkashen. As an apotheosis of meaninglessness with a claim to a unique solution.

What is most curious, if desired, it can also be classified as “semi-correct”: after all, if the self-tapping screws do not rot (black phosphated self-tapping screws are by no means an example of corrosion resistance) and do not burst during the inevitable shrinkage of the beam, this frame is unlikely to fall apart. That is, such a design has the right to life.

What is the main disadvantage of the “wrong” frames? If people know what they're doing, they pretty quickly come to the Canadian-Scandinavian scheme. Fortunately, information is now in bulk. And if they don’t come, then this speaks of one thing: they, by and large, do not care about the result. The classic answer when trying to ask them why it is so is “we have always built it this way, no one complained”. That is, the entire construction is based solely on intuition and ingenuity. Without trying to ask - how is it customary to do this.

What prevented you from making a board instead of a beam? Make reinforcements of openings? Make normal cuts? Collect for nails? That is, do it right? After all, such a frame does not give exactly any advantages! One large set of not the best solutions with a claim to super strength, etc. Moreover, the labor input is the same as that of the “correct” one, the cost is the same, and the material consumption, perhaps even more.

Summarize

As a result: it is customary to call the American-Scandinavian frame scheme “correct”, due to the fact that it has already been repeatedly tested on thousands of houses, proving its viability and the optimal ratio of “labor-intensive-reliability-quality”.

“Semi-correct” and “incorrect” include all other types of frames. In this case, the frame can be quite reliable, but “non-optimal” from the side of the above.

As a rule, if potential contractors cannot justify the use of certain design solutions that differ from the “correct” American-Scandinavian ones, this indicates that they have no idea about these very “correct” decisions and build a house solely on a whim, replacing knowledge with intuition and ingenuity. And this is a very risky path that may come back to haunt the owner of the house in the future.

So. Do you want guaranteed correct, optimal solutions? Pay attention to the classic American or Scandinavian scheme of frame housing construction.

about the author

Hello. My name is Alexey, maybe you met me as Porcupine or Gribnick on the Internet. I am the founder of "Finnish House", a project that has grown from a personal blog into a construction company whose goal is to build a quality and comfortable home for you and your children.

The situation when a large beautiful house grows on an empty plot of land in just a few months is probably familiar to many of us. No, the point is not the financial capabilities of the owner of the building, but the applied one. With the use of this technology, it is possible not only to significantly reduce the construction time, but also to reduce the cost of purchasing materials and ordering special equipment.

Tens of thousands of proposals are available on the wooden housing market today from developer companies that specialize in the construction of frame houses using Canadian, Finnish and SIP technologies. Each of them guarantees high-quality turnkey work, a European level of service and an individual approach to each client. But is it possible to build, for example, a one-story do-it-yourself frame house? Answer: yes, it is possible! To do this, you will need a project and our step-by-step instructions for a general understanding of the construction process.

Project preparation

Design is the most important link in the investment process associated with the construction of a frame house. Through the implementation of this task, many technological, engineering, constructive and architectural solutions are solved, which together determine the effectiveness of investments. Therefore, it is so important to entrust this part of the work to specialists and use the services of designers who will prepare a project for you for a fee.

What is usually included in a project? A standard frame house project includes two parts. This is a visual component and constructive building. The first part is mainly devoted to the visual display of the house and its facades from several sides, the layout of the floors indicating the premises, the placement of window and door openings. The second part is already a detailed design of the foundation and truss system, a roof pie, drawings of walls, floor beams and ceilings. Also included here is an estimate for the amount of materials, a project for all nodes in the structure, wall and floor cladding.

By having a detailed design, you can avoid the hassle of including inefficient square footage, lots of trimmings, and wasting money. Of course, you can create a frame house project with your own hands. But this will require, at a minimum, to study the special literature on the design and construction of "frameworks". And this time, a lot of effort and possible mistakes!

In our opinion, the importance of design cannot be overestimated. Saving on this part of the work, you risk incurring large costs. After all, an unsuccessful or incorrect project is not only a house that is far from ideal, but also a waste of investment!

Calculation and order of materials

As a rule, the calculation of building materials is included in the tasks of the designer. But preliminary calculations can be done independently. If drawings (beam decks, frame) are already ready for a frame house, then it is quite simple to calculate the amount of materials. For example, based on the drawings, you can find out how many meters of strapping and frame supports are required.

In the absence of special drawings, they proceed from the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe lower and upper floors, as well as the number of running meters of walls. To determine the number of frame supports, the linear meters of the walls are divided by 0.6. For strapping, the volume of material is calculated by multiplying the length of the running meters by 3. The same is done with the number of beams in meters: for this, the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe lower and upper floors is divided by 0.6 and added to the length of the strapping beams. However, these indicators are still recommended to be clarified with the designer. Then the calculation will be more correct.

Foundation device: MZFL and pile-screw

Ease of construction is one of the main differences between a frame house and a classic brick house, which affects the choice of foundation. The weight of the "skeleton" usually does not exceed 20 tons, this makes it possible to reduce the cost of the structure, not to deepen the foundation and not to make it massive. Most often, this is MZFL (shallow strip foundation) for frame-panel houses or a pile-screw foundation for SIP houses designed according to.

1. A strip foundation is a concrete strip that runs under all the load-bearing walls of the house, both external and internal. Strengthening - reinforcing cage. This is the preferred option for a frame house, due to which the customer can afford to build a basement or basement. The secret of the popularity of the MZLF also lies in the ease of construction with your own hands and the affordability of the price.

The main stages of installing a strip foundation include:

• Soil preparation, followed by removal of the fertile layer and leveling the surface;
• Creation of a sand and gravel cushion and installation of mortgages for laying communications;
• Installation of formwork and waterproofing, manufacturing of reinforcing cage;
• Pouring concrete mix;
• Dismantling the formwork after the concrete has hardened and gained strength.

A prerequisite for MZLF is the absence of a high level of groundwater. Otherwise, an effective drainage system will be required.

2. It costs the customer much less than MZLF, which is explained by the use of a fundamentally different approach, less expensive materials and simplified installation technology. You can actually get a high-quality and durable foundation of a frame house with your own hands in one day, and it can be used immediately after installation.

The installation of a pile-screw foundation begins with a study of the soil to indicate the depth of the bearing words and determine the required length and number of screw piles. The project is being finalized taking into account the characteristics of the soil and the indicated length of the piles. Based on this, piles are purchased and delivered to the construction site. Installation of this type of foundation is carried out according to the plan of the pile field, regardless of the season.

Its advantage lies not only in the speed of installation, but also in the absence of harm to the landscape due to the absence of sand and gravel preparation and earthworks. There are no traces of heavy special equipment, the usual mountains of construction debris and dirt. In addition, the use of screw piles contributes to the creation of an air gap under the house, which prevents the appearance of dampness in the room and retains heat.

Floor device

Building a floor in a frame house with your own hands does not differ much from flooring in brick houses and can be wooden or concrete. The choice may be influenced by the type of foundation, financial capabilities and preferences of the developer.

Let us dwell in more detail on the installation of a wooden floor with our own hands based on a pile-screw foundation.

The start of work is the binding of the foundation, which is carried out using a beam of 150x150 or 150x200, which depends on the distance between the piles and the thickness of the walls. The higher these figures, the thicker the material should be. This is necessary to avoid cases of sagging, load distribution, stiffening and reliability of the foundation for the next stage of flooring.

Schematically, the process of tying the foundation with your own hands can be divided into several stages:

1. The layout of the timber along the perimeter, the exact marking of the walls, the lining of the roofing material for the strapping;
2. Basting of the joints of the timber, taking into account the location of the piles;
3. Joining a beam with an overlap of up to 30 cm using "locks" cut from the end;
4. Docking corners according to a similar principle;
5. Preparation of holes and fixing the beam to the foundation using studs and bolts, the protruding parts of which are recessed. At the joints, nails of suitable sizes are additionally used.

At the final stage, the strapping is carried out under the inner walls. In this case, the fastening of the beam goes to the already installed outer one. For reinforcement, metal corners are additionally used.

Floor frame construction

Logs are installed over the strapping. For this, timber 100x150 (200) or stitched boards 50x150 (200) are used. This is a simple part of assembling a frame house with your own hands, but it involves observing some points. This is:

• Compliance with the distance between the lags, taking into account the size of the insulation. For example, if the developer uses mineral wool 100x60, for its dense placement, it will be necessary to reduce the distance to 58 cm, i.e. a few centimeters less than the width of the material itself;

• Installation of the lag is carried out using fixing angles and nails. They do not go to the level with the strapping, but are mounted on a smaller “matchbox” (5 cm). This is necessary so that in the future another board fits here, and all the gaps around the perimeter are closed;

An obligatory element is also a board 50x150 (200) between the lags, which is nailed in order to increase the rigidity of the structure.

Floor insulation and waterproofing

Perpendicular to the lags, a board 100/150x25 is attached to the joint using self-tapping screws. Next, a waterproofing membrane is placed, and on top of it between the lags - a heater, up to 20 cm thick. All joints of the insulation must be overlapped.

The next layer is a vapor barrier, followed by an OSB board or tightly stitched boards (at the choice of the developer). Installation of vapor barrier, as well as waterproofing, is carried out with an overlap to prevent moisture from entering the insulation.

Wall arrangement

For mounting the walls of a frame house with your own hands, nails and mounting angles are similarly used. It is also possible to use pins. For the frame of the walls, a board 50x150/200 is used, which is selected taking into account the thickness of the insulation and the wall itself.

Ideally, the walls are assembled on a finished floor. The main thing is that the dimensions are accurate, otherwise the walls run the risk of being longer or shorter than the floor. In order for you to understand what is at stake, pay attention to how the wall of a frame house looks in section.

First of all, you need to decide on the height of the ceiling of the future frame house. Suppose that the draft ceiling will be 280 cm high. This means that the height of the vertical racks will be 265 cm (10 cm from the upper wall trim and 5 cm from the floor level are not taken into account).

A distance of 60 cm is observed between the racks. For a cotton-based insulation, this figure can be reduced to 58 cm to ensure tighter contact. To simplify the process, the top and bottom boards of the walls are laid out on the floor, after which markings are applied where the vertical racks will be nailed.

If the length of the wall of such a board is exceeded, the collection of the wall is carried out in parts. This is also done in cases where the developer works alone, since the whole wall assembly has considerable weight. Studs are used for connection.

The next step is the installation of jumpers between the racks while maintaining space for door and window openings. As a rule, these are two units per gap, with the expectation that they will be used as a joint of the OSB-plate.

Important! In order not to make mistakes in the calculations and make the wall of the desired thickness, the thickness of the board used should be taken into account during the assembly of the wall.

The final stage is the assembly of all the walls of the frame house with subsequent installation. They start by putting up one wall, which is reinforced with temporary supports. Here it is important to follow the vertical angles, for which they use a plumb line or a long level. It is desirable, of course, that this be a plumb line, since the board cannot be perfectly flat.

All other walls rise in turn. For installation, nails and studs are used. Prefabricated walls (of several parts) are given special attention, making sure that the length of the bottom and top is the same. Instead of timber, the corners are filled with insulation. To strengthen the walls, use any thin board that is nailed diagonally. A cord that is pulled between two corners will help to follow the even arrangement of the walls.

Top harness

To strengthen the structure and secure adhesion of the corners, use the same board as for the walls, plus 120 mm nails. This will distribute the load between all parts of the frame walls. The strapping is carried out around the entire perimeter, including over the internal load-bearing walls. Here it is important to close all joints, leaving an overlap of 25 cm. For corners, the overlap will be equal to the thickness of the walls.

Interior partitions

The installation of interior partitions is similar to the arrangement of external walls, with the caveat that the requirements for them regarding insulation and the thickness itself are put forward softer. Therefore, they are mounted in such a way that sound insulation is observed.

The best assistant in this regard is a heater. Waterproofing and vapor barrier materials can be used as desired.

Do-it-yourself installation of the roof of a frame house

Installation is in many ways similar to the construction of a roof in other houses, but still surpasses them in ease of installation, which is explained by simplified fastening to the walls. This is a very important part of the work, especially when it comes to building a two-story frame house, but if you have a simple house layout and a one-story building, then you can easily handle it alone and do everything yourself.

We will not delve into the description of all stages of roof installation here, since this is a very extensive topic that requires a separate article, but we suggest that you familiarize yourself with the step-by-step instructions for building a frame house, which describes in detail all the stages of construction, including the arrangement of the roof.

Download the guide “Individual house “Platform”. Design and construction»

Do-it-yourself warming of a frame house

One of the final stages of construction. Everything is insulated, including walls, floors and ceilings. When choosing a heater for the walls of a frame house with your own hands, they proceed from the characteristics of the material and the characteristics of the wood itself, with which the heater will go well.

Warming highlights:

• A special waterproofing membrane is stretched on top of the OSB-plates. The side of the application to the sheet is usually indicated in the instructions;
• The insulation is placed inside the building, between the racks. The number of layers depends on the thickness of the wall and the requirements for insulating a frame house with your own hands. To prevent the penetration of cold, an overlap is used;
• Floor insulation is carried out in a similar way;
• The insulation of the ceiling is preceded by the fastening of the vapor barrier film on the ceiling beams and their filing from below with a board. It is recommended to start work from the attic;
• A vapor barrier film is stuffed over the insulation to create protection from moisture from the inside.

If necessary, sheathing in the form of OSB sheets can be applied over the film, after which they proceed to the fine finish.

This concludes our step-by-step instructions for building a frame house. The company "South House" is ready to assist you in the construction of a frame house. For you, these are: individual design, turnkey construction, terrace or canopy installation, laying of any foundation, facade finishing, electrical work and installation of a drainage system.

If you have any questions related to obtaining a project, the possibility of making adjustments to it, calculating the cost of the project and building a house, you can contact the managers of our company at the indicated numbers. You can also leave a request by filling out a special form on our official website, after which our specialist will contact you to clarify the details.