It takes a lot of energy from gardeners, sometimes without bringing the desired result. Today we’ll talk about folk remedies for pest control, time-tested, which will really give results and benefits to garden crops.

All gardeners first of all try to get an environmentally friendly product from their plots, so folk remedies will help in the fight against pests and fit plants as best as possible, and will not harm the human body.

The main thing is to be on time, to process the plants even during the initial stage of pest development. Then folk remedies will help. But when there are too many pests, only the use of chemical plant protection products can help. Therefore, watch your plants and start processing in a timely manner.

Table - folk remedies against plant pests

Infusions, in the recipes of which the shelf life is not indicated, are used on the day of preparation.

For the preparation of infusions, use a 10-liter bucket. Strain the resulting infusion. Processing of plants is carried out in the spring by the kidneys, then at the beginning of flowering.

As soon as the young leaves at the ends of the branches begin to curl up - the main sign of the appearance of aphids, do not miss this moment.

The sooner you notice pests, the better for the plants and for us.

Useful video - How to defeat pests without chemicals?

I wish that in your gardens and vegetable gardens there were as few pests as possible!

WEEDS. HOW TO GET RID OF THEM

Ludmila Shcherbakova,
Candidate of Agricultural Sciences, Associate Professor of the St. Petersburg Forest Engineering Academy, specialist in the conservation and protection of garden and park plants

WHAT ARE THEY DANGEROUS? At the mention of weeds, the mood immediately deteriorates. No matter how many of them are poly, they immediately grow in even greater numbers. But the grass is different. In the garden, we try to weed out all the grass, leaving only cultivated plants. In an ornamental garden, an obligatory component is a lawn, which, as a rule, consists of narrow-leaved grasses. And the Mauritanian lawn is a great place not only for beautiful butterflies, our pollinating assistants: bees, bumblebees are constantly working on it. All beneficial insects feed here, the larvae of which destroy pests. But some harmful insects feed on broad-leaved weeds (caterpillars of nibbling scoops), mollusks (snails, naked slugs) readily feed on them, which then attack our flowers. Some polyphagous pests pass from wild and garden plants to flower crops. For example, spider mites and whiteflies feed on wood lice, and thrips and aphids love ragwort juice. As long as there are no cultivated plants, these pests will be content with weeds, and then they will gladly move on to the plants that you plant.

WEEDS-TIPS. To an observant gardener, the species diversity of weeds on the site may indicate his mistakes. Pharmaceutical camomile. nightshade black. white gauze speaks of an excess of nitrogen in the soil. Stinging nettle loves decomposed manure, and if there is still enough phosphorus and moisture in the soil, then no Roundup can cope with its thickets. An abundance of odorless chamomile. field mustard. field bindweed and creeping couch grass will remind you of the need to loosen the soil. Burdock prefers abandoned corners with good soil. Horsetail. sorrel speaks of the high acidity of the soil, which means that it is necessary to add lime and the futility of applying fertilizers here. But wormwood, on the contrary, loves calcareous soils. Where there is excess moisture, poor drainage, bindweed, horsetail and creeping buttercup will settle. If there are a lot of weeds blooming in the summer on the site, then the fertility of the soil has decreased, it needs humus; if new types of weeds have appeared, and the former ones disappear, then the state of the soil has changed.

WHERE DO THEY COME FROM? The first source is free territories. Along roads, ditches, fences, under trees, wherever there is a piece of no man's land or a place where our hands do not reach, the so-called ruderal weeds, closely associated with human habitation, flourish. That is why it is so important to keep clean not only your garden, but also the surrounding area. The easiest way is to periodically mow free areas, and between the ridges, ridges and flower beds, on the paths, near the walls of houses and fences, treat them with herbicides. The second source is organic top dressing. With manure and peat compost, a huge amount of weed seeds enter cultivated soils. Most of them do not lose their germination for many years, even after passing through the intestines of livestock or chickens. To reduce the germination of seeds, it is desirable to use organic waste that has decomposed at a sufficiently high temperature, for example, under a dark covering material, i.e. compost.

WHAT ARE THE WEEDS? Every gardener should know what weeds grow in his area. Plants with taproots, sprawling underground rhizomes and propagating by self-sowing, are especially aggressive. Tap roots can reach great depths. When pulling out taprooted weeds, be sure to dig as deep as possible to remove most of the root. Otherwise, it will sprout again, but this time it will be stronger and stronger.

Weeds that reproduce by underground shoots or rhizomes are the most harmful. It seems to you that the underground shoot has been completely removed, but these nimble "runners" can get away from you at a distance of up to one and a half meters. A torn piece of rhizome left in the ground can quickly turn into a new plant. Such "hydras" must be dealt with especially carefully, otherwise the weeding will never end.

Self-seeding weeds will grow on your site every year. To reduce their number, it is necessary to destroy these weeds before they ripen.
seeds, that is, still in the first half of summer. The best tactic to deal with them is to frequently loosen the soil to destroy seedlings. Weeding is best when the weeds are small and the soil is moist.

HOW TO FIGHT THEM? Unfortunately, weed control is a continuous process, it will not be possible to refuse it, however, with the right technique, the number of weeds will gradually decrease.

Don't let weeds grow out of control. If weeding is a little late, weeds will immediately "bury" all your cultivated plants, especially in the first half of summer, when the grass grows by leaps and bounds. It is almost impossible to correct the situation, the flowers drowned out by weeds are drawn out and after weeding they are a miserable sight.

Destroy weeds in the stage of "white threads". In early spring, friendly shoots of weeds appear on the surface of the soil. Loosen the soil no more than 5 cm. A huge mass of white threads will appear on the surface - these are weeds that have grown from seeds. It will take you only half an hour to get around a large area with this work. It is better to repeat the procedure twice, catching this stage. If the moment is missed or the garden is overgrown with perennial weeds, you can use the Fokin flat cutter, but you need to loosen it already deeper, cutting the roots of the weeds.

Mulch the soil under plantings. Recently, it has become very fashionable to cover the soil in recreation areas, under shrubs and flowers with crushed bark or pebbles. This method works well. Firstly, such areas look quite aesthetically pleasing, and secondly, weeds, if they begin to germinate, are easily pulled out of the loose substrate. It is impractical to use a regular film even under bushes - over time it is crushed and looks very untidy. On sale there is a dark lutrasil. it may well be used to cover the soil. This helps to significantly reduce the thickets of couch grass and goutweed.

Don't stop fighting weeds in the fall. At this time, it is necessary to trim the weed shoots 2–3 times or cover them with a black film for the winter.

Use herbicide treatments in areas where there are no cultivated plants, or carefully apply the solution with a brush. Herbicides help to control the number of those weeds that do not respond to all our efforts. These are, first of all, root sow thistles. sleepy, coltsfoot. Their roots reach a depth of 4 m, and 60 cm to the sides give horizontal branches, from which offspring of mother plants jump out to the surface in friendly rows and columns. It's almost impossible to dig them out. And this is where herbicides come to the rescue.

HOW TO TURN ENEMIES INTO OUR FRIENDS? Let's look at weeds from a different perspective. If we fail to cope with them, we will try to turn them into medicines for our cultivated plants. Herbal preparations were the first that man tried to use to protect plants. They are prepared from freshly harvested or dried weeds, as well as some garden plants with insecticidal properties. It is better to collect plants in dry, sunny weather after the dew has dried. The roots are cleaned from the ground and washed in cold water. Dry the plants immediately after collection in shaded places under a canopy or in the attic. The faster the plants dry out, the greater the content of toxic substances in them will be. Efficiency is maximum for plant materials used on the day of collection. Working solutions are prepared in the form of infusions or decoctions. Spraying is more effective than dusting with powders. For better retention of the solution on the surface of plants, various adhesives can be added to it: soap (household, green), washing powder, liquid glass. It must be remembered that herbal preparations, unlike chemical insecticides, are toxic only on the day of treatment. Under the influence of moisture, air and sun, they decompose into non-hazardous components and do not pollute the environment.

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There are several ways to deal with weeds. First, let's define what is hidden under the concept of "weeds". As a rule, these are tall annual and perennial plants, such as thistle, thistle, nettle, yarrow, wormwood, mullein, burdock, quinoa, gout. It is important to know that all these plants do not tolerate constant mowing, are sensitive to the effects of herbicides and prolonged shading. It is these properties that should be used in the fight against weeds. So, let's look at different options.

Plowing

If possible, it is necessary to carry out plowing of virgin soil before winter, leaving large clods without breakdown. This will help to partially freeze part of the rhizomes of perennials. In spring, arable land is cultivated by breaking up clods and leveling the ground. It would be nice to say that this is where the weed control ends, but, unfortunately, this is not the case.

The fact is that a huge number of perennial rhizomes with thousands of underground buds remain in the soil. As soon as the sun warms, they will sprout and the site will be covered with a carpet of fresh greenery. Therefore, during and after cultivation, you need to carefully select all the roots from the ground and lay them in a compost heap (or simply dry them in the sun).

Herbicide treatment

Sprouted young green weeds must be treated with herbicides - drugs that inhibit plant growth. They are used when plants are actively growing, in spring and in the first half of summer.

Herbicides can be sprayed with weeds before plowing, but again only at the beginning of the season. Since July, treatment with these drugs is not particularly effective.

The grass begins to turn yellow and dry out after about a week, and after a month it is already possible to lay a garden with a vegetable garden and flower beds on the site of the former virgin lands.

high ridges

Many summer residents are opposed to the use of pesticides. In this case, boxes of boards, slate or metal are directly equipped. The bottom is lined with cardboard, and a “layer cake” is made from various organic waste on top.

Mowed grass, both fresh and dried, as well as fallen leaves, is used. All this is shifted by thin layers of earth, peat, manure. A fertile layer is laid out from above, in which seeds are sown and seedlings are planted.

Site shading

If weeds are isolated from light for a long time, they will surely die. This phenomenon is based on the method of weed control by covering future ridges with some kind of opaque material. It can be anything from multi-layered cardboard to old rugs and carpets. For these purposes, it is convenient to use black spunbond, geotextile, slate, roofing material, old banners.

The coating must lie in one place for at least a season, for example, from spring to spring. In this case, most of the weeds die and the area cleared of them can be used for a vegetable garden.

Regular mowing

If there is no desire or opportunity to completely free the area from weeds, then you can "tame" wild vegetation and gradually turn it into a beautiful and even lawn. To do this, the primary mowing is carried out with a trimmer disc, and then regularly, at least twice a month, the area is mowed with a lawn mower.

Most plants will not survive such violence and will die. Only a few grasses will survive, for which regular mowing only stimulates tillering, and dandelions. In a year or two, instead of a weedy wasteland, there will be a lawn with a smooth and healthy lawn.

Combination of ways

The best solution would be to combine different methods in one area. So at first you can break high beds and get vegetables and strawberries this season. Covering material is spread nearby for the subsequent expansion of the areas reclaimed from weeds. Next year, you can sow vegetables or arrange a flower garden here.

Where a lawn is planned according to the plan, weeds are regularly mowed and beds are mulched with this organic matter and compost boxes are clogged. Thus, without special material and labor costs, weeds can be gradually ousted from the site.

Many disdainfully refer to wormwood, calling it a malicious weed. But I consider her my protector from many misfortunes - pests and diseases of the garden and vegetable garden, and even from human diseases. Over the years I have gained experience in its application.

I used to harvest wormwood on the sides of country roads, but inadvertently brought the seeds to my site, where the plant began to grow and multiply, so that I no longer need to specially go anywhere for it. And I don't try to get rid of it. I have islands of wormwood under almost every young apple and pear tree, near fences, outbuildings, where they do not interfere with anyone at all.

However, do not think that it grows uncontrollably. The needs for wormwood and its reproduction are balanced so that it does not have to stay in the ground. I extract plants in whole or in part at a young or adult age - with my hands or with a trident.

Wormwood helps out in the fall

A great need for wormwood occurs in the fall. Where it does not yet grow in the near-stem circles of young apple and pear trees, I spread the grass around the trunks. This protects the trees from mice.

To the boles of young apple and pear trees on the south side I tie a pair of long branches of wormwood with electrical tape. This is protection, on the one hand, from hares in winter, and on the other hand, from the heat of the sun's rays in early spring. Moreover, for the entire period of application of such protection, there were no cases of damage.

In places of possible settlement by mice (in a house, a barn, a cellar), I lay out branches of wormwood. I do this in advance, as rodents get closer to housing for winter. And although they sometimes settle in "forbidden" territories, the persistent smell of wormwood irritates the animals, and they leave.

When laying the foundation of the house, I also wrap wormwood branches in foam rubber plugs.

Often, moths appear in places where food is stored, as well as clothes. To scare her away, I make special bundles with wormwood from pieces of old sheets.

Spring application of wormwood in the garden

In the spring I remove wormwood from tree trunks, I also collect it from all the places where I laid it out in the fall. But it is too early to throw away the grass: it will serve until a new one grows.

What am I doing?

I spread a decent piece of plastic wrap, put a wooden block in the center and start chopping the collected wormwood with an ax. Flying pieces remain on the film. I put the collected chaff into a 20-liter bucket, close the lid and put it in the sun. After 1-1.5 weeks (depending on the weather), I drain the infusion through a fine sieve into 6-liter plastic bottles.

By the way, I do the same with the husks and stalks of garlic and onions collected in the fall. I put infusions in a shaded cool place.

I use these infusions to combat late blight, alternating them and adding 1 tbsp for every 10 liters. l. potassium chloride, liquid soap and 1 g of potassium permanganate. This remedy also helps against powdery mildew, scab, and other fungal diseases.

I also use them to control pests - caterpillars, aphids, and other insects. I often add iodine, brilliant green, table salt, boric acid, mullein to these infusions.

Not all plants are as harmless as wormwood. During the period of ripening and harvesting fruits and vegetables, plants should not be sprayed with infusions of milkweed, tobacco, henbane, hemlock, celandine, horse sorrel. They are poisonous to plants!

To combat pests and diseases, it is better to use agrotechnical, physical-mechanical, biological methods, as well as environmental means: infusions and decoctions prepared from wild and cultivated plants that have the ability to kill insects and pathogens.

Agrotechnical methods are mainly preventive in nature. They include the mandatory change of crops, mechanical tillage, regular top dressing.

Correct rotation and placement of crops helps to reduce the number of pests and infection in the soil. With deep digging of the soil in autumn, some pests are brought to the surface and die from frost, rain, or are eaten by birds and mechanically destroyed, and many of the eggs, larvae or spores that have been laid, once in the deeper layers of the soil, die. Due to deep loosening, when a significant part of wireworms is in the upper soil layer, the work of predatory ground beetles and their larvae is activated, which destroy the pest by more than 40%. Carrying out this operation in mid-August also destroys a large number of perennial (5 times more than in mid-September) and annual (15 times) weeds. It is important to remember that with a strong infestation, especially with perennial weeds, the treatment is carried out to a depth of 8-10 cm, while with a weak one - only 5-6 cm. Thus, the number of breeding centers of pests and diseases is sharply reduced.

Proper application of fertilizers and fertilizing, loosening and watering contribute to the intensive growth of plants, strengthening their vital activity and protective mechanisms, which prevents them from being affected by diseases and colonization by harmful organisms. If, before the appearance of aphids, foliar potash or phosphorus-potassium feeding of cabbage or other vegetable crops is carried out, then at the very beginning it is possible to reduce the number of pests by 5-6 times and at the same time save the life of the ladybug, and then only one will be needed to completely destroy the aphids ( instead of three) its individual per 1 m 2. In late autumn, to combat pupae and emerging butterflies of the currant moth, it is necessary to hill the bushes to a height of 10 cm with soil taken from the row spacing, and in the spring, after flowering, the berries should be hilled up.

One of the most common mechanical methods of struggle is the manual collection of inactive insects (caterpillars, beetles and their larvae). Many small insects can be caught with an ordinary vacuum cleaner, replacing a dense filter with a mesh or gauze. To catch cruciferous and other fleas, a sheet of plywood, cardboard or dense matter is smeared with a sticky substance and dragged several times over damaged plants; stuck beetles are destroyed.

Night butterflies are caught with a light trap. It is not difficult to make it if there is a light source. To do this, place a cup under the lamp with fermenting molasses, jam, an emulsion of kerosene, or a weak solution of a fast-acting pesticide. Insects that fly into the light hit the lantern and fall into the liquid, where they die.

For traps, insect-attracting odors can be used. For example, in the summer for butterflies, cabbage whites or moths are laid out in boxes of fresh cabbage leaves. Insects lay eggs that are easy to destroy. To scare away butterflies, cabbage is simply sprayed with a decoction or infusion of leaves and flowers with a strong smell (jasmine, spruce, acacia, lilac, pine).

Infusions and decoctions against pests

To combat harmful insects, instead of chemicals, it is desirable to use herbal infusions and decoctions. It is best to collect the above-ground parts of the necessary plants in the phases of the beginning or full flowering, and tubers, bulbs, rhizomes - in early spring or late autumn. They should be dried under a canopy in the shade in a draft.

It must be remembered that decoctions and infusions from some herbs are not harmless, so they must be prepared strictly according to the recipe, and when working, be sure to take precautions. For cooking, you must have special utensils, which then in no case can not be used for cooking. The remains and pomace after the preparation of solutions and infusions must be buried in the ground. Plants inhabited by pests are treated 2-3 times per season, if necessary - 4-5 times. Sprayed in the evening hours, as most solutions lose their toxic properties in sunlight. Spraying should be stopped at least 20-30 days before harvest.

180 - 200 g minced garlic in a meat grinder or mortar, insist 24 hours in 10 liters of water. Strain before spraying (against aphids, suckers, small caterpillars and spider mites).

Potatoes keep much better if they are treated with antimicrobial agents. To combat rot, it is effective to sprinkle tubers with crushed or crushed garlic (100 g per 100 kg of potatoes) or chopped leaves of mountain ash (300 g per 100 kg) or spray with tincture of onion or rowan leaves (50 g of crushed leaves per 1 liter of water - 1, 5 cups of tincture per 100 kg of potatoes).

Against damage to plants by spider mites, aphids and other pests, spraying with infusions of dandelion, tomato or potato tops, and pepper gives good results. The infusion is prepared from 400 g of fresh dandelion leaves or 200-300 g of crushed roots, infused in 10 liters of water (+ 25 ° C) for 2 hours, then filtered and added 1 tsp each. diluted soap, pepper, mustard.

An infusion of tomato leaves or potato tops is prepared as follows: 500–600 g of leaves or stepchildren are passed through a meat grinder, poured with warm water (+30–31 ° C), insisted for 3 hours, then filtered, add 1 tsp. ammonium nitrate, 1 tbsp. l. pepper and 1 tsp. soap. Spray the plants with this solution every 7 to 10 days, and not once, as many do, hoping to get rid of aphids.

Can be used to kill aphids and onion bulbs. The bulbs are passed through a meat grinder, 1 cup of the resulting mass is diluted in 10 liters of water, 1 tbsp. l. soda ash and damaged plants are sprayed with this solution. The last spraying should be carried out no later than 20–25 days before picking the fruit (at the stage of development of 2–4 leaves). Make sure that the solution wets the whole plant - leaves, stems.

To combat aphids, you can use a decoction of yarrow and wormwood. To prepare it, take a handful of dry yarrow and a branch of wormwood, pour boiling water and boil for 7-10 minutes, cool and infuse for 2-3 hours. Plants are sprayed with the resulting solution.

150 - 200 g of onion peel insist in 10 liters of water for 3-4 days. Strain before use (against leaf-eating caterpillars, aphids, spider mites).

150 - 200 g of onion peel, 200 g of ground onions, 200 g of tobacco boil for 2 hours in 10 liters of water. Cool the broth and add 10 liters of water. Before spraying, add 30 g of soap (against leaf-eating caterpillars and aphids).

Pour 150 - 200 g of tobacco dust with hot water, stir and infuse for a day. Then strain and dilute to 10 liters (against the codling moth).

Pour one part of tobacco, shag or tobacco dust with ten parts of water and leave for a day. Then dilute the infusion 2-3 times with water with the addition of soap (against aphids, suckers, leaf-eating caterpillars).

200 g of dry tomato tops, 200 g of onion peel, garlic, 200 g of dry wormwood, a pack of shag and 2 pods of chopped hot pepper, pour water and boil for 15-20 minutes. Cool, strain. Dilute 2 liters of infusion in 10 liters of water (against ticks, aphids).

With a small number of aphids, you can dust the plants with sifted ash from a gauze bag. Pre-plants are sprayed with plain water so that the ash sticks to the leaves better.

To destroy aphids, infusions and decoctions of dandelion, yarrow, tobacco, horse sorrel, marigolds, potato tops and tomatoes are used. Spraying should be carried out at the first appearance of signs of damage. Sprayed in the evening hours and in calm weather. When processing, it is important that the places where aphids accumulate are well wetted: young shoots and especially the underside of the leaf, where aphids are located. If necessary, infusions and decoctions of plants during the summer can be processed up to 3-4 times with an interval of 7-15 days. Processing can not be carried out during the flowering of plants. The last processing time is 5 days before harvest.

Boil 100 g of fresh chopped hot pepper pods in 1 liter of water over low heat for an hour. Cool, pour into glassware and leave for two days. For spraying on 10 liters of water, take 50 g of decoction (against small caterpillars and aphid larvae, suckers).

2 kg of needles of annual growth of pine or spruce, pour 8 liters of river or rain water and leave for 5-7 days in the shade, stirring daily. For spraying, take 1 liter of infusion per 10 liters of water (against aphids, suckers).

Pour 100 g of dry mustard into 10 liters of hot water, leave for 2 days, dilute with cold water (1: 1) and strain. Or brew 60 g of dry mustard in 1 liter of water, leave for three days in a sealed container. For spraying, dilute the infusion in 20 liters of water (against moths, aphids, red apple mites).

1.2 kg of green potato tops or 600-800 g of dried tops insist for 3-4 hours in 10 liters of warm water. Strain the infusion, add 40 g of soap and spray fruit trees with it (against aphids, spider mites). Exceeding the dose of haulm can cause burns on tree leaves.

Pour 4 kg of green tops of tomatoes with water and boil over low heat for 30 minutes. Before spraying, dilute the solution with three parts of water (against codling moth, moth, leaf-eating pests).

Steam 800 g of dry yarrow in boiling water for 30-40 minutes, add water to 10 liters and leave for 1.5-2 days. To make a decoction, pour the dry mass with water and boil for 30 minutes (against aphids, apple moth caterpillars and other leaf-eating).

Boil 1 kg of dried mass of bitter wormwood for 10-15 minutes in a small amount of water, cool, strain and add water up to 10 liters (against leaf-eating caterpillars).

3 large celandine plants cut at the root and chopped. Pour a bucket of cold water and leave for 3 hours. Pour into a deep bowl and carefully dip the tops of the branches on which the aphids have settled. A particularly good effect is obtained on currants.

Infusion of burdock destroys caterpillars of whites, scoop. It is prepared from finely chopped leaves, which are placed in a bowl, filling it halfway. Then they are poured to the brim with water, insisted for three days, and after straining, the plants are sprayed.

Before planting, onions can be soaked in salted water (2 tablespoons of salt per 5 liters of water) for a day, and then washed in a solution of potassium permanganate (against onion nematodes and thrips).

Wood ash is a good help in the fight against pests and diseases of the garden and vegetable garden. If the leaves begin to curl on the young shoots of gooseberries and currants, they need to be unfolded and sprinkled inside the ashes. Its application in dry form, 300 g under each bush with uniform distribution and mixing with the soil, increases resistance to powdery mildew. For the same purpose, during the ripening period of berries, bushes can be pollinated with ash at the rate of 10–15 g per bush. If necessary, dusting can be repeated 2–3 times, but at the same time, the amount of ash should be reduced to 5–7 g per bush.

Against powdery mildew on currants, gooseberries, cucumbers and against cherry mucous sawfly, spraying plants with such a solution is useful: boil 300 g of sifted ash for half an hour, strain the settled solution and dilute with water up to 10 liters. To improve adhesion, add 40 g of any soap. Processing can be carried out twice a month and preferably in the evening in calm weather.

Powdery mildew on gooseberries and currants can also be fought by the microbiological method: pour a third of a bucket of mullein (or rotted hay) with three liters of water, dilute it three times with water after 3 days, strain and sprinkle the plants. If there is no mullein, you can take 1 liter of whey, skim or buttermilk, dilute 9 liters of water and sprinkle. Bacteria that develop in manure destroy the mycelium of the pathogen.

A good effect in the fight against powdery mildew is sprayed with soda ash with soap (50 g of soda and 50 g of soap per 10 liters of water). To prepare the solution, you need to dilute the soap in soft water and add soda, previously dissolved in a small amount of water.

In the fight against scale insects, a soap-kerosene emulsion is used: 40 g of laundry soap is dissolved in 10 liters of water and 10 drops of kerosene are added. The branches and stems of plants are washed with the emulsion twice with an interval of 8-10 days.

If the site has running water, you can try to wash off pests from fruit trees and shrubs with a strong stream of cold water.

In the fight against aphids, you can use the following solutions: 2 tbsp. l. ammonia in a bucket of water, add 1 tsp. shampoo (washing powder) or 10 liters of water 20 g of superphosphate and 10 g of potassium chloride. Spray the leaves from below with an interval of 6-7 days.

In the fight against carrot fly, a good effect is given by twice watering with infusion of onion peel: the first time - immediately after weeding in June, the second - after weeding in late July - early August.

For this, a third of a bucket of husks is poured with boiling water (up to a full bucket). When the infusion has cooled, they water the beds and spread between the rows the onion peel taken for the preparation of the infusion. The smell of the onion repels the fly.

For the same purpose, you can use a mixture of tobacco dust and dry sand in a 1: 1 ratio, wood ash, dry peat, as well as pine and spruce needles, turned through a meat grinder. They sprinkle the soil along the rows during the laying of eggs by the fly 2-3 times per season.

Against the larvae of the onion fly, watering the plants with a solution of table salt (1 cup per 10 liters of water) is effective. The first watering is carried out when the pen reaches 5 cm in length, and is repeated every 20 days.

To combat caterpillars and larvae, you can prepare a solution of aconite (blue fighter): 1 part of the plant to 6 parts of water. They insist for days. The resulting composition is diluted with water 1:5. You can use a hemlock solution: chop the stems, leaves and inflorescences and pour water 10:5. Let it brew for 1 hour. The composition is pressed. After 2 hours, squeeze again. The resulting liquids are mixed and sprayed on the trees.

The codling moth does not tolerate the smell of wormwood. A decoction of wormwood for spraying: the grass is crushed, half of any container is filled with it, poured with water and allowed to boil for 30 minutes. The solution should be infused for a day. The broth is filtered, diluted with water 1:2.

Keep a close eye on the appearance of the overwintered Colorado potato beetle. Before settling potatoes to scare away and disorientate beetles, you can sprinkle the plants with a daily infusion of bitter wormwood, fresh walnut leaves, elecampane roots, bugs, celandine, tansy, as well as a decoction of dandelion, bitter pepper fruits, horsetail, poplar leaves. In small areas, manual collection is advisable, followed by the destruction of beetles, oviposition and larvae. On hot days, when the plants lose turgor and become wilted, you can carefully collect the larvae of the Colorado potato beetle from the bushes with a net that is designed to catch butterflies.

There are plants that actively contribute to the spread of diseases or their inhibition: quinoa and sorrel favor the development of late blight on tomatoes and potatoes, and phytoncides secreted by onions, garlic and radishes, on the contrary, have a detrimental effect on pathogens of late blight, ascochitosis and vascular bacteriosis cabbage.

Beets, carrots, dill, parsley, cabbage, lettuce also prevent the manifestation of late blight.

Some plants secrete substances that are harmful to insect pests. For example, onions have a negative effect on spider mites, shag and celery - on cabbage fly, garlic and wormwood - on cruciferous fleas, tomato - on sucker, aphids, sawfly, moth. If you plant flowers (marigolds, marigolds or nasturtium) between cabbage beds, then many butterflies will fly around them. Planting marigolds or marigolds next to strawberries repels nematodes. A good result is the cultivation of strawberries and garlic on the same bed, as garlic repels the strawberry weevil. The Colorado potato beetle is repelled by beans, beans, hemp, marigolds planted around potatoes or between rows.

Elderberry repels, except for insects, rats, mice and currant bud mites (the elderberry leaves contain poisonous hydrocyanic acid).

A good result in the fight against moth is given by planting tomatoes around gooseberry bushes. After harvesting, tomato tops can be finely chopped into pieces up to 5 cm long and scattered under gooseberry bushes, after loosening the soil.

When planting rows of onions and carrots alternately, it is believed that the onion repels the carrot fly, and the carrot - the onion fly. But it should be remembered that this event gives the desired effect only on well-ventilated, unshaded beds.

Medvedka is scared away by the smell of alder. Its green branches are stuck into the beds, from time to time replacing them with fresh ones.

Since ancient times, infusions and decoctions of herbs have been used against pests and diseases of garden and garden plants. Decoctions from plants are obtained by boiling over low heat. The hot liquid is poured into a tightly sealed container and stored in a cool place. Decoctions remain toxic for 1–2 months or more.

Wormwood. Used against caterpillars of codling moth and leaf-eating caterpillars (hawthorn, leafworm, etc.). To prepare a decoction, half a bucket of finely chopped raw grass or 700–800 g of dried, collected during the flowering period, is poured with cold water and infused for 1 day, then boiled for 30 minutes. Before spraying, dilute with water 2 times.

Apple trees against codling moth are sprayed immediately after flowering on the first warm evening at a temperature not lower than + 15 ° C. Spraying is repeated at weekly intervals for a month, while the codling moth flies.

Another decoction can also be made from dried wormwood: 1 kg of crushed above-ground mass is boiled for 10–15 minutes in a small amount of water, after cooling and straining, diluted with water to 1 liter. In order for the solution to act stronger, an infusion of chicken manure is added to the unstrained wormwood decoction: 1 kg of dry manure is infused for 1-2 days in a small amount of water. The mixture is filtered and topped up with water to 10 liters. It is useful to add 40 g of soap to the resulting solution.

Tansy ordinary. Used against the codling moth, sucker and flower beetle on the apple tree. 700–800 g of dried or 2–2.5 kg of fresh flowering plants are placed in a bucket, filled to the brim with water and infused for 1–2 days. Then the infusion is boiled for 25-30 minutes, filtered and diluted by half with cold water. After cooling, spraying is carried out in the evening.

Dandelion officinalis. It is used against aphids, suckers, ticks. For standing preparation, take 200-300 g of crushed roots or 400-500 g of fresh leaves and infuse for 2-3 hours in 10 liters of warm water (not higher than + 40 ° C). Use immediately after straining. The first treatment is carried out on opening buds, the second immediately after the flowering of fruit trees and shrubs, and the next after 10–15 days (if necessary).

Bulb onions. Used against aphids, meadow bugs, spider mites, suckers, codling moths. To prepare an infusion, 200 g of onion peel is poured into 10 liters of warm water, insisted for 4–5 days, then filtered and sprayed on plants against sucking pests.

The following infusion has an overwhelming effect on suckers: 200–300 g of crushed bulbs are stirred into 10 liters of water, insisted for 1–2 days and sprayed with a fresh solution.

To protect the apple tree from codling moths, it is sprayed with one of the named infusions after flowering, on the very first warm evening at an air temperature not lower than + 16 ° C. The treatment is repeated every 7 days for about a month, during the entire period of the flight of butterflies.

Mustard is white. Factory-made powder is used against aphids, scoop caterpillars, sawflies, whites, red apple mites and other pests. In 1 liter of water, 10 g of powder is infused for 2 days in a tightly closed container, then filtered. Before spraying, 150–200 ml of the concentrate is brought to 1 liter by adding water, and the plants are sprayed with the resulting infusion. Against slugs, the soil is sprayed with a suspension: 100 g of powder in 10 liters of water.

Tobacco, shag. It is used against aphids, suckers, thrips, young caterpillars of leafworms, cabbage moths, onion flies, winter moths, ringed silkworms, cruciferous fleas, spider mites, whiteflies, slugs and other pests.

Leaves, stems and dust obtained by drying tobacco are used. For 10 liters of water, 400 g of crushed raw materials or dust are taken, kept for 2 days and filtered. Before spraying, dilute 2 times and add 40 g of soap per 10 liters. Sprayed with an interval of 5-8 days 2-3 times.

Treatment with tobacco dust is effective against earth fleas on vegetable crops, against onion flies, preferably mixed with lime or ash (1: 1). Mixture consumption - 10–20 g / m 2.

Tobacco dust is used to fumigate greenhouses against aphids, thrips and whiteflies (5 - 10 g per 1 m 3), and in the garden - against apple and fruit moths, suckers, aphids. Against moths, fumigation is carried out during the flight of butterflies, against suckers - after flowering of the apple tree. Small piles of straw, debris, branches are placed in the aisles of the garden, one per 100 m 2. 2-4 kg of tobacco dust is poured on top and set on fire. Fumigation lasts at least 30 minutes (usually up to 2 hours).

Tomato. Apply against aphids, ticks, bedbugs, caterpillars of cabbage whites, moths, codling moths, cruciferous fleas. Healthy aerial parts and roots are used in fresh and dry form, which are harvested during pinching and harvesting. To prepare a decoction, 4 kg of fresh green raw materials or 0.5 kg of dry boil in 10 liters of water over low heat for 30 minutes, cool and filter. Before spraying, dilute with water 3 times and add 40 g of soap per 10 liters.

Planting tomatoes between the rows of gooseberries scares off sawflies and moths.

Potato. Used against aphids, ticks, scoops. To prepare an infusion, 1.2 kg of green or 0.6–0.8 kg of dry tops without signs of disease is poured into 10 liters of warm water and infused for 3–4 hours, then filtered. Sprayed with freshly prepared infusion in the evening with the addition of 40 g of soap per 10 liters.

To catch wireworms, pieces of raw potatoes are fixed on twigs and buried in the soil to a depth of 5–15 cm. After 5–6 days, the potatoes are removed and the pests are destroyed.

Hot chilli pepper. Apply against aphids, suckers, caterpillars of cabbage scoops and moths, thrips, slugs. Insist 1 kg of capsicum, cut in half, or 0.5 kg of dry chopped fruits, pour 10 liters of water, close the lid and leave for 2 days, then boil for 1 hour and insist for 2 more days. Then the pepper is thoroughly rubbed with a pestle, squeezed and filtered. The resulting concentrate is used immediately or poured into half-liter bottles, tightly corked and stored in a dark, cool place. A solution is prepared for spraying: 125 g of concentrate and 40 g of laundry soap, previously diluted in hot water, are added to 10 liters of water. Sprayed against aphids, suckers, slugs and caterpillars of butterflies several times with an interval of 10-15 days.

To combat codling moth and moth, a solution of a higher concentration is made: 500 g of concentrate and 50 g of soap are taken for 10 liters of water.

Yarrow. Used against aphids, suckers, thrips, spider mites, bedbugs, small, openly living caterpillars. To prepare an infusion, 800 g of well-dried plants collected at the beginning of flowering are crushed and steamed with boiling water for 30–40 minutes, then water is added to 10 liters and infused for 1.5–2 days. Soap is added before use.

Decoctions are prepared in the same ratio, but the mixture is boiled for 30 minutes; they can be prepared in advance by straining hot and immediately pouring into a tightly closed dish.

Spraying fluid consumption: young trees - 2 l per 1 tree, fruiting trees - 10 l / tree, currants, gooseberries - 1.5 l / bush, raspberries - 2 l / 10 bushes, strawberries - 1.5 l / 10 m .

To catch apple beetle beetles in early spring, immediately after the snow melts, jars of tar can be hung in the crown of trees.

Butterflies of the codling moth can be scared away by hanging wormwood brooms in the crown of trees before the start of summer.

To catch butterflies at the end of flowering of apple trees of late varieties, bait traps are hung in the crown of trees. They are placed slightly above the middle of the tree. Traps can be made of cardboard in the form of tubes with a diameter of 20 cm and a length of 30–40 cm. The tube is tied in the middle with twine or bast so that the ends diverge, and inside the tube is lightly sprayed with sweet apple syrup or whey from cottage cheese or yogurt. Butterflies fly in the dark, and during the day they climb into the tube, from which they are shaken out in the morning, and by night the tube is hung out again.

As traps, you can use glass jars, one-third filled with fermenting odorous liquids. Lure liquids can be made according to the following recipes: pour 600–700 g of apple carrion or 100 g of dried fruit with two liters of water and boil for about 30 minutes, then add 0.5 l of bread kvass, 20–25 g of yeast, 250 g of sugar and put in warm place. When the liquid begins to ferment, the bait is ready. Or 200-300 g of rye bread crusts, 3-5 pieces of sugar and a little yeast are placed in a three-liter jar, topped up with water, covered with gauze and put in heat. After 1-2 days kvass is ready. You can drink it yourself, and bread and sugar are again put in the sediment. The fermented thick is diluted with water and used as bait.

Butterflies are well caught on apple juice, fermented compote or jam. They are diluted with water before use. Banks are hung in the crowns of trees in the evening, and removed in the morning so that useful insects do not accidentally get into them during the daytime. The butterflies are taken out, and the jars are placed in a cool place until the evening. This should be done daily.

To catch and destroy flower beetles and leaf-eating caterpillars, trapping belts are placed on the lower part of tree trunks in early spring before bud break. To combat the apple codling moth, they are applied 2–3 weeks after flowering, before the appearance of carrion. They are usually made from 2-3 layers of thick wrapping paper, burlap. The most effective are trapping belts made of corrugated paper 20-25 cm wide, and the scars should be located across the location of the tape, which is tightly tied with a rope or elastic band to the stem. To avoid interceptions of the bark, at least once a month, the strapping of the belts is loosened. Belts are periodically removed, destroying the caterpillars accumulated under them. Belts are pre-lubricated with non-drying glue. Ready-made Pestifix glue can be purchased at the store. At home, it can be made in the following ways: one part of burdock oil is added to two parts by weight of boiling tar. The mixture is boiled over low heat for 5 hours. Or take 2 parts by weight of var, 1.5 parts of petroleum jelly, 1.25 parts of rosin, 10 parts of pine resin and cook until glue is formed. If the glue dries quickly, add hemp oil.

In the fight against the bear, insects should be selected and destroyed when digging the soil and stuffing greenhouses with manure. In early May, lay out small heaps of manure on the site, into which the bears will climb to lay eggs, and after a month, loosen the heaps and destroy adults and eggs. At the end of May - June, in order to destroy eggs and young larvae, two or three times loosening of the soil between rows to a depth of 10–15 cm should be carried out. In greenhouse conditions, carry out root feeding of plants, which can have a detrimental effect on the pest. Carry out a systematic catch of the bear in dishes (banks, etc.), dug at the soil level along the moves of the bear and two-thirds filled with water. Spray the places where the moves of the bear are found with a solution of soap (200 g per 10 l of water) at a flow rate of up to 8 l per 1 m 2 to wet the soil to a depth of 8–10 cm. You can use rye bread baits and match heads. To do this, soft bread is slightly moistened and a lump the size of a walnut is made from it. Then 10-12 matches with heads inside are stuck into it. When the heads are wet, the matches are removed and the bait is mixed with the tip of a knife so that it is a homogeneous mass. In the form of balls the size of a pea, it is laid out in the minks of a bear, having previously made holes in the minks with a pointed stick. Place the balls in the places where the bear moves are crossed, placing them at a distance of 0.5–0.75 m from each other. After unfolding the bait, the moves are crushed with a plank and watered. When restoring moves, repeated refueling is carried out. In autumn, in heavily populated areas, it is possible to catch adults and larvae of the mole cricket in pits filled with horse manure, 0.5 m deep. Attracted by warm manure, mole crickets climb into them for the winter. With the onset of cold weather, remove the manure from the pits and scatter it, thus destroying the bears that have gathered in them.

Naked slugs can be destroyed by weeding and removing weeds from the site in a timely manner, thinning thickened plantings, mowing grass at the borders, and carefully tilling the soil. Land reclamation and other works aimed at eliminating excessive moisture are effective. In addition, the removal of plant residues after harvesting also inhibits the development of slugs and reduces their harmfulness. A significant number of them can be caught by laying out various shelters on the site - boards, wet rags, burdock leaves. Under these shelters, slugs are taken for a day, they are collected, placed in a jar of detergent solution, or fed to poultry.

In the fight against slugs, it is effective and double, with an interval of 20–30 minutes, dusting with slaked lime (30 g per 1 m 2) or a mixture of tobacco dust with lime (1: 1). It should be done in the late evening when the slugs move to the plants. After the first treatment, the pests, along with the mucus, drop the preparations that have fallen on them and can remain alive. The second treatment completely destroys them.

The smell of cider and beer attracts slugs, and the liquids themselves are poisonous to them. If shallow jars filled with beer or cider are placed among the plants, then the slugs, having drunk, will die.

Since hedgehogs, toads, frogs, ground beetles feed on slugs, it is desirable to preserve and release these useful animals in their areas.

Wireworms (larvae of click beetles) live only in humid conditions and when the upper layers of the soil dry out, they go deeper, so it is very difficult to deal with them. All measures aimed at their destruction are mainly mechanical. When digging the soil in spring and autumn, when planting and harvesting potatoes, it is necessary to manually select the falling larvae. Systematically remove wheatgrass and other weeds on the site itself and in its neighborhood, and also repeatedly loosen row-spacings to a depth of 10–12 cm during the summer, which contributes to the death of some of the larvae.

In the spring, before planting potatoes, you can catch the larvae on baits - pieces of chopped raw potatoes (or beets), which are laid to a depth of 5 - 15 cm and mark their location with twigs. After 3-4 days, the baits with the larvae that have bitten into them are dug up and destroyed. With a large number of pests, this procedure can be carried out at any time between rows every 10 cm.

The wireworm is attracted by bait crops of oats, barley, and corn. These crops are sown before planting potatoes (vegetables) or during the growing season between rows with a row of 4–5 grains in one nest every 50–70 cm. When grain sprouts appear, they are dug up and wireworms are selected.

When planting potatoes in each hole, you can put a handful of dry onion peel, as well as 1 pea or bean. This will deter the larvae to some extent.

In order to protect against common scab on potatoes, it is necessary to use only healthy sprouted tubers for planting, and before planting, do not apply fresh unripe manure and high doses of lime. To reduce the harmfulness of the disease, use physiologically acidic mineral fertilizers - ammonium sulfate (3 kg per 100 m 2), superphosphate (2 kg per 100 m 2).

To increase immunity in tomato plants and preventive control of late blight and other pathogens of leaf spots, the following methods are used: before sowing, seed treatment with 1% potassium permanganate solution for 20 minutes, followed by washing and drying; treatment of plants with garlic with potassium permanganate (1.5 cups of garlic pulp and 1.5 g of potassium permanganate per 10 liters of water).

To kill ants in the garden, mix borax with sugar (in a ratio of 1: 1) and put in a saucer or on sawdust moistened with kerosene. For bait, use the following recipe: 1 tsp. dissolve borax in 0.5 cups of water, heat to + 60 ° C, when it cools down, add 5 tbsp. l. granulated sugar and 1 tbsp. l. honey. Or flood ant nests with cold or hot water until all the ants living inside the many passages and galleries of the nest are dead. If the work is not completed, then the anthill will come to life. It must be remembered that the roots of cultivated plants may suffer from hot water. Try watering ant congestion sites with borax solution at the rate of 1 tsp. to a glass of water. A good result is given by wrapping an ant's nest with a cloth moistened with a solution of the following composition (per glass of water): 1 tbsp. l. borax, 1 tbsp. l. boric acid and 4 tbsp. l. granulated sugar. As the fabric dries, it is impregnated again. The procedure is repeated until the complete destruction of the ants. There is also such a trick: treat the soil around the nest and the ants' path with vegetable oil, on a glass of which a crushed head of garlic is added. The smell of garlic for ants is an insurmountable barrier. If you spread the broken arrows of winter garlic on an ant nest, then the ants will leave it, and the tree trunks rubbed with fragrant greens will bypass. In order to drive away small black ants living in the soil from the site, it is necessary to bring winged females of large red ants from the forest and place them in the garden - and the black ants themselves will leave your territory.

In order for the moles to leave the site, it is necessary to place balls of fresh goat or pig manure in their passages, and you can also pour in herring brine or water with kerosene. Chop the cut gooseberry branches and bury them with manure in the soil. You can stick bird cherry stakes into molehills or near them. Since moles do not like the smells of onions and garlic, onions and garlic are finely chopped and placed in different places in the mole passages. Drives moles out of the area and noise from rattles (or metal turntables) transmitted into the soil along the perch.

Molecatchers are usually used to capture animals. They are placed in pairs in passages with denser soil (one each from opposite sides), at the intersections of their paths. You can catch a mole and dig a jar or bucket into the course flush with its lower surface. You can also open passages in several places and trample them. Noticing that the trampled earth is raised, that is, the mole clears the way, in this place they quickly block its path with a shovel and throw the animal along with the ground. Then the ground is trampled down again and again observed. Often a female follows the male, followed by young moles. Then the whole operation is repeated.

Hares are well repelled by coating trees with a creamy mixture of equal amounts of clay and fresh mullein with the addition of 1 tbsp. l. carbolic acid or 50 g of creolin.

In greenhouses, when planting seedlings against root rot, they irrigate the wells with the bacterial preparation "Pseudobacterin", diluted in a ratio of 1:100, 0.5 l per plant. To increase the resistance of plants to diseases, it is also diluted in water (1: 1000) and sprayed on the plants.

Entomophagous insects

There are many ways to protect the crop without the involvement of pesticides. Among them is the attraction of beneficial insects to the garden plot.

The most valuable of the predatory insectivorous entomophages are:

- hoverflies (destroy various types of aphids);

- trichograms (lay their testicles in eggs, larvae and the body of adult insect pests and kill them);

- ladybugs (eat aphids and other insects);

– colossus flies (valuable biological pest control agents);

- lacewings (larvae feed on aphids, mealy blacks, scale insects, butterfly eggs and small caterpillars);

- predatory bugs (feed on small larvae, insect testicles, mites and thrips);

- spiders (do not belong to insects, but are ferocious predators).

To attract these insects will help: tansy, navel, marigolds, zinnia, kosmeya, cumin, dill, fennel, spearmint. Many types of legumes, such as clover or vetch, have the ability to attract beneficial insects. They provide useful insects with constant food and moisture, and serve as a good shelter. In addition, legumes are a good source of nitrogen accumulation in the soil.

To control aphids on crops grown in greenhouses, it is advisable to use predatory gall midges that destroy all types of pests. Against peach aphids on peppers, eggplants, dill, tomatoes, aphidius is released, and against melon aphids on cucumbers, zucchini, peppers, eggplants - lysiflebus.

Ladybug. It belongs to round beetles and, depending on the species, is 4–9 mm long. In total, we have about 70 species of large ladybirds, among which about 50 species feed on leaf aphids, and the rest on shell aphids and spider mites. Ladybugs, along with other leaf aphid killers, are the most important helpers in the garden. It is especially important that both the larvae and the beetles themselves belong to the species of predatory insects and feed on aphids. The seven-spot ladybug known to us destroys up to 150 aphids per day, smaller species - up to 60. While still being larvae, insects devour a total of up to 800 aphids.

Gallica. Various species of the gall midge family are better known to amateur gardeners as harmful insects (the larvae of a number of species develop in plant tissues, causing the formation of galls). Known pests in the garden include, for example, pear gall midge. Useful gall midges feed on the stage of aphid larvae.

Larvae ground beetles they feed on eggs of vegetable flies, small insects and their larvae, worms, slugs. Along with ground beetles, which live mainly on the ground, there are also arboreal and flying species. They feed on small insects and worms and therefore live in decaying organic matter, such as compost.

Hoverflies are of great importance in horticulture, as their larvae feed on aphids. Larvae develop in different conditions - in the soil, slurry, or on plants. The peculiarity of hoverflies, reflected in their name, is that in flight they can, as it were, hover in place, while making a sound that vaguely resembles the murmur of water. Egg laying occurs in aphid colonies.

The development of the larva to the pupal stage lasts 2 weeks. During this time, the larva eats up to 700 aphids. The hoverflies themselves feed on flower and honeydew, as well as aphid secretions.

lacewing along with ladybugs is the enemy of aphids. The larvae feed on small insects, especially aphids. Individual individuals are capable of destroying up to 500 aphids during development. Adults feed, as a rule, on honeydew and pollen, on occasion they do not disdain small insects.

The use of lacewing for targeted biological plant protection in greenhouses and protected ground has been tested with good results. To do this, it is necessary to place 20 lacewing eggs for each square meter of surface, which can be purchased at special biological laboratories.

Slimy lion. Along with the common lacewing, we also meet about 42 species of aphid lions. Adults and larvae feed on aphids and contribute to the biological balance in the fight against this pest. Prefer areas rich in flowering plants.

predatory bug. Its various species have specific food sources. For some, it is the juice of a plant, for others - insects. For the gardener, the latter are primarily interesting, which, among other things, destroy aphids. These include soft-bodied and false bugs, among which some species feed mainly on spider mites. Larger species of flower bugs also feed on gall midge larvae.

Biotechnical methods of pest control are based on the use of chemicals (pathogens, hormones) or physical stimuli to attract or repel harmful insects. The most effective way to control garden pests is to use pheromone traps. They, unlike many other devices, have a selective effect, which significantly reduces the likelihood of the death of beneficial insects.

The principle of operation of this kind of traps is based on the use of substances that have a strong effect on the body of an insect, which are sex hormones - pheromones. Scientists have managed to synthesize the sex pheromones of many species of harmful butterflies. Each drug form of sex pheromone has its own marking. For example, to combat the codling moth, the drug SR-MK was created. The first two letters of the marking indicate the Latin name of the pest, in this case the codling moth (Carpocapsa pomonella Z.). To date, there are pheromone preparations to combat the oriental codling moth, bunch moth, omnivore, rose, fruit, peach, variegated golden, net, bud and green oak leafworms, gypsy moth, fruit striped moth, nun silkworm, apple and currant glass cases, apple and plum codling moths, underside miner moths and many other garden pests.

There are two main ways to control pests using sex pheromones. The first method is called "male vacuum". The action of the sex pheromone preparation is based on the fact that, for example, males of the first generation of the codling moth appear in nature somewhat earlier than females, at the end of the flowering garden. At the same time, traps with the pheromone of the codling moth are hung on the trees, the males fly to the inviting smell and fall into the trap. Thus, even before the appearance of females, it is possible to catch the main number of males, which significantly reduces the percentage of fertilization of females, their laying eggs and the appearance of new generations of the pest. The effectiveness of the traps is extremely high: one trap for 5–6 apple trees during the growing season is able to clear the garden of the codling moth so that the next year the number of fruits damaged by it is one.

The success of using pheromones largely depends on the number of traps and their location in the crowns of trees. It is very important at what height the traps are placed. Most males fall into those traps that are hung at a height of 3/4 of the tree crown. That is, with an apple tree height of 3 m, traps should be placed at a height of 2–2.3 m from the ground. Traps are placed inside the crown on the south side of the tree so that their end parts are turned in the direction of the winds prevailing in the area. This is important so that the wind quickly spreads the smell, which attracts males to the trap. The distance of action of the pheromone in the trap is quite large - more than 50 m.

Pheromone is consumed very little, and traps remain attractive to males even when up to 90% of the pheromone has evaporated. Under natural conditions, the effect of pheromones lasts up to one and a half months, therefore, in those places where the codling moth develops in two generations, it is recommended to hang out fresh traps before the start of the flight of butterflies of each generation. It should also be taken into account that when the garden is highly infested with a pest, traps should be changed more often, since the degree of catching males can be significantly reduced due to purely mechanical contamination of the adhesive surface of the trap by adhering insects.

In this way, it is possible to deal with currant glass, underside mining moth, leafworms and many other pests.

The second way to use pheromone traps is based on the effect of disorientation of male harmful insects. Pheromone vaporizers or baits are hung on all the trees in the garden, emitting the smell of a female. This scent overrides the scent of live females in the garden and distracts the males. As a result, the vast majority of females do not mate, remain unfertilized and, accordingly, lay unfertilized eggs that die. This method gave the best results in the fight against plum codling moth. The bait in this case is the so-called pheromone rings made of a rubber tube of large diameter. This ring is cut on one side and put on a tree branch. The pheromone that fills the ring gradually disappears and causes the effect of disorientation in males. Sex pheromones are approved for wide use, non-toxic, safe for humans and animals, harmless to beneficial insects, do not pollute the environment and are completely environmentally neutral.

It is very important that pheromone traps and baits are used simultaneously in all areas of the horticultural partnership or in all gardens of the settlement, since the focal use of traps, that is, hanging them in separate areas and trees, can cause the accumulation of a large number of male pests in that particular garden, where the traps are set. In this garden, as a result of repeated mating and fertilization, the number of eggs laid by the pest will increase significantly, which will lead to an increase in the degree of damage to plants and fruits.

The simplest and most effective type of pheromone trap is the deltoid trap. To make it, the cardboard blank is folded along the fold lines, the folds are carefully smoothed out with a solid object so that the finished trap has the shape of a triangular prism with clear edges. In the upper part, 2 holes are made with an awl or a hole punch, into which the wire is threaded. The wire fixes the shape of the trap, and at the same time it attaches the trap to the tree. On the inner unpainted part of the workpiece, which forms the bottom of the trap, put 5 g of glue attached to the workpiece in a plastic bottle. Then, a second blank is applied to the blank with glue with the inner side and the glue is evenly rubbed between the surfaces of both blanks. After that, the blanks are separated and the glue is corrected so that it goes onto the side walls of the trap. The blank with glue is folded along the folds. At the top, where the edges of the trap meet to form a rib, they are stapled or sewn together. The ends of the trap, forming a triangle, are bent inward and a bait is placed in the middle of the adhesive surface - a rubber tube filled with pheromone. The pheromone tube can also be hung from a wire inside the trap.

Yellow and white sticky boards are simple insect control devices based on the fact that certain colors are especially attractive to insects. Yellow color has a stimulating effect on insects. Therefore, yellow adhesive boards were created, on which insects flock and stick to the adhesive layer. They are quite effective in the accumulation of a certain type of insect in a given area, for example, cabbage flies and butterflies in cabbage plantings, as well as when used in greenhouses and greenhouses. A significant disadvantage of adhesive boards is that not only harmful, but also beneficial insects die on them.

A special group of biological pesticides are chemosterilants. The principle of their impact on pests is based on the fact that they cause the sterilization of harmful insects, making it impossible for them to fertilize and reproduce. Thus, the sterilized generation of pests naturally dies off, leaving no offspring. The most promising proved to be the use of chemosterilants when combined with sexual attractants (pheromone preparations).

light traps are used in the fight against moths of the leafworm, causing great damage to fruit trees, and against the five-spotted hawk moth. Just as in the case of adhesive boards, the main disadvantage of this means of control is that beneficial insects also die. A promising means of biological protection of the garden are potent biological preparations, which, in essence, are the causative agents of infectious diseases in pests. They can cause an epidemic of a deadly disease in a certain type of pest, which will lead to their death. The most famous and tested biological preparations are:

- Bacillus thuringiensis - powder, sprayed to control caterpillars of pests of fruit, vegetable crops and ornamental plants;

- Granulose Virus - applied by spraying, acts on the larvae of pests of fruit trees (apple and plum codling moths). It is necessary to strictly observe the biological terms of application;

– Parasitaere Nematoden is the only effective preparation against the larvae of the furrowed mower. They water the contaminated soil. The best conditions during application are soil temperature not higher than +15 °C, moderate humidity.