How to make floor waterproofing with your own hands. Waterproofing materials: main types and how to make it How waterproofing is done

The concrete floor, along with other types of flooring, needs waterproofing. Concrete itself has some water resistance, but with prolonged contact with moisture, it begins to break down, and unprotected joints between the floor and the wall can provoke a number of serious problems.

For waterproofing a concrete floor, both traditional and more modern methods are used. Consider the technology of their application, and analyze the features of floor protection, depending on the type of room.

The need for concrete floor waterproofing

Concrete floors are often used in the arrangement of residential and non-residential premises. They are a good basis for laying all kinds of floor coverings: linoleum, laminate, parquet.

Concrete is a hygroscopic material that gradually absorbs moisture. In order to protect expensive floor coverings from contact with moisture, a protective barrier layer is installed on top of the concrete floor (before the screed). The waterproofing material prevents the contact of finishing materials with water vapor.

On the first floors of industrial buildings and basements, a waterproofing layer must be laid on top of a sandy, well-compacted cushion.

Waterproofing a concrete floor significantly reduces the risk of a number of problems, namely:

Concrete floor protection materials and specifics of their application

There are various ways to waterproof a concrete floor. Price, application technology, service life and specifications protective layer depends on the material used.

Roll waterproofing. The most common method that uses bitumen-based roll materials. They are of two types: floating and self-adhesive.

The advantages of floating materials, such as roofing material, include their durability and affordability. However, they also have significant disadvantages:

• the need to use a gasoline or gas burner during installation, which is not always convenient and acceptable (especially in small rooms);
• when heated, an unpleasant odor and harmful smoke are released;
• laying roofing material requires subsequent pouring of an additional screed - this increases the load on the foundation and reduces the height of the ceilings.

A worthy alternative to traditional roofing felt is adhesive-based roll materials. They are more convenient to install and create a high level of moisture protection.

Coating waterproofing. This method gradually replaces rolled waterproofing. Various bitumen-polymer, cement-polymer and bitumen-rubber mastics are used. Thanks to the plasticizers and special fillers contained in the composition of the mastics, the waterproofing layer is durable and elastic.

Some manufacturers add components that prevent the development of fungus and mold growth.

Before applying the mastic, it is desirable to treat the floor with a special primer - this will increase the adhesion of the waterproofing layer to the concrete base

Often, protective mastic is sold complete with a primer (their composition must have the same main component).

The main advantages of coating waterproofing are the cost-effectiveness and ease of application of the material.

Cement-polymer mastic can be laid on a reinforcing mesh, resulting in a waterproofing layer and a screed at the same time

penetrating waterproofing can be used as an additional or primary measure of concrete floor protection. There are the following subgroups of penetrating waterproofing:

1. Concreting - allows you to increase the density, strength and frost resistance of the material. Used as an additive in the manufacture of waterproof concrete structures or to create a protective reinforcing layer.
2. Polymer cement - can be used for processing concrete, wood and brick floors. The material is characterized by high adhesion to the surface, environmentally friendly and easy to use.
3. Cement inorganic waterproofing is used for the treatment of concrete floors and walls (relevant for swimming pools, baths, bathrooms).

Ceramic tiles can be laid on a layer of penetrating waterproofing

Backfill waterproofing used to protect the foundation or floor in wet areas. Bulk material is poured into the pre-constructed formwork. As a filler, you can use: perlite sand, ash, mineral wool, betonite (when moistened, it turns into a waterproof gel).

Backfill waterproofing is reliable, has long term operation, but its installation is a rather laborious and expensive process.

Features of waterproofing concrete floors in different rooms

Concrete floor protection in the house and bathroom

When waterproofing the floor in the living rooms of a house or apartment, painting or coating technology is used. This will be enough to provide the flooring, and the room as a whole, with protection from excessive moisture.

A waterproof paint can be applied to the floor surface, which contains polymers that can clog concrete pores. To increase the effectiveness of the waterproofing layer, it is desirable to apply the paint in 2-3 layers.

Waterproofing work should be carried out in a well-ventilated area, as the paint has a strong odor

Since the bathroom is a place with high humidity and a high risk of leaks, it is better to use glued or coated waterproofing here - it is more durable and reliable.

Self-adhesive roll material, bituminous or synthetic mastics are well suited for such work.

The video of waterproofing the concrete floor in the bathroom is presented below.

Floor waterproofing in the garage and basement

Particular care must be taken to waterproof the concrete floor in the garage, as a constant excess of moisture can lead to rotting and damage to vehicles. Ventilation will help to delay the negative consequences, but not for long.

Types of concrete floor waterproofing:

• ground device;
• covering device.

Waterproofing on the ground is carried out at the time of arranging the base under the floors. Roll material (polymer membrane, bituminous roofing material or polyethylene, about 1 mm thick) is suitable for work. When laying out the material, the overlap on the walls must be at least 10 cm. The waterproofing layer must lie flat, without the formation of "waves" and gaps.

When arranging the floor in the garage above the basement (along the ceiling), you can use a layer of roofing material or bituminous mastic as protection. However, if there are plans to manufacture viewing hole in the garage, then there will be no point in such waterproofing.

If there is a basement in the garage, the only sure way is to waterproof the concrete floor in the basement itself.

There are three types of basement floor waterproofing:

• anti-capillary - protection of the floor from capillary water;
• non-pressure - protection against floods and rains;
• anti-pressure - protection from groundwater.

It is possible to perform high-quality waterproofing of the floor different ways. One of the most reliable is laying the "pie", in which the floor level rises to a height of about 50 cm.

The sequence of laying layers is as follows:

1. crushed stone (layer thickness - about 2 cm);
2. oily clay;
3. a thin layer of concrete;
4. a layer of waterproofing mastic;
5. rolled waterproofing (2 layers in a row);
6. a thin layer of concrete;
7. reinforced concrete screed.

For waterproofing the concrete floor in the basement, it is not recommended to use membranes and films - they are not able to withstand friction against the foundation during seasonal soil shifts, and will not cope with pressure groundwater

Protection of the concrete floor in the bath

Some believe that it is not necessary to waterproof the concrete floor in the bath, as the air temperature is very high and the humidity itself will evaporate. However, it is not. Very often, due to improperly executed penetrating concrete waterproofing, the floor in the bath does not warm up. In addition to discomfort, this can lead to the destruction of the flooring.

Penetrating waterproofing can be used to protect the concrete floor from excess moisture. To do this, it is necessary to clean the floor surface well, level it, prime it and cover it with a cement, polymer cement or concrete waterproofing compound.

Properly executed waterproofing of the concrete floor in the baths will protect the elements of the structure from premature destruction and improve the microclimate in the steam room.

Do-it-yourself concrete floor waterproofing

Preparatory stage

To carry out waterproofing work, it is necessary to pre-prepare the room, namely:

Roll coating technology

For rolled waterproofing, the evenness of the surface is very important, therefore, before work, it is necessary to check again that the gap between the level and the floor does not exceed 2 cm.

The sequence of work is as follows:

When laying out the waterproofing material, it is necessary to ensure that the overlap between the sheets is at least 1 cm.

If during laying the roll "left" to the side, it must be cut off and the direction aligned with a new cut of the web. When a bubble forms, it is cut, air is released, re-smeared with mastic and glued to a concrete base. The restored place of swelling should be smoothed out with a spatula.

Technology for applying seamless waterproofing (coated)

Independently and in a short time, you can make a coating waterproofing of the concrete floor. The technology of applying mastics does not require a perfectly flat surface - it is enough to sweep or vacuum the floor. It is undesirable to make a wet frill.

The procedure for applying waterproofing mastic:

During drying, moisture, dust and foreign objects should not get on the waterproofing layer.

On the dried waterproofing, you can lay the floor covering: tiles, porcelain stoneware, linoleum, etc.

As you can see, you can protect the concrete floor from moisture on your own, the main thing is to choose the right waterproofing material and adhere to the technology of its installation.

The foundation is the foundation of the house. The durability of the entire structure as a whole depends on its strength and safety. The foundation is affected by rain, groundwater and capillary water, as a result of which it sags and deforms. Concrete tends to pick up moisture well, which, rising up through the capillaries, penetrates the walls and floor, providing ideal conditions for the growth of mold and other fungi. Also important is the problem associated with the operation of concrete foundations in a continental climate, where freezing and thawing of water occurs annually. Water penetrating into the pores of concrete, which freezes and thaws inside, leads to the destruction of the integrity of the foundation. To protect your structure from the destructive effects of water, timely waterproofing of the foundation is required. Waterproofing measures taken at the construction stage will ensure the safety of the house. If you are still tormented by doubts whether to do or not to do, keep in mind that in the future, repairing the foundation will cost more than building a box at home, and it’s not worth talking about the laboriousness and complexity of the work.

The main load-bearing element of the house requires extremely close attention at all stages of construction, from calculations and installation to work on hydro and thermal insulation. To say that do-it-yourself waterproofing of the foundation is a simple matter, it means to be cunning. The technology itself requires certain knowledge and understanding of the processes occurring in the soil and in concrete, as well as in various waterproofing materials. Experience is also of no small importance, therefore, before waterproofing the foundation, it does not hurt to consult a specialist and take into account his recommendations.

The first thing to do is to decide on a set of measures for waterproofing. For this, a number of starting conditions should be taken into account:

• The level of occurrence of groundwater;
• The force of "swelling" of the soil in the post-frost period;
• Soil heterogeneity;
• building conditions.

If the maximum groundwater level is more than 1 m below the base of the foundation, then it will be enough to perform a coating vertical waterproofing and horizontal using roofing material.

If the groundwater level is higher than 1 m from the base of the foundation, but does not reach the level of the basement or reaches it extremely rarely, then for high-quality waterproofing the set of measures will have to be expanded. Perform horizontal waterproofing in two layers with mastic between them. For vertical insulation, both the coating method and the pasting with rolled materials should be used. Depending on the budget planned for materials for waterproofing the foundation, it is possible to additionally treat all concrete elements of the foundation and basement with penetrating waterproofing, which stops the movement of water through the capillaries.

If the groundwater level is above the base of the foundation and the level of the basement floor, or the area in which the house is built is famous for frequent and heavy rainfall, which seeps into the ground for a long time and is difficult, then in addition to the previous list of measures, it is necessary to equip a drainage system around the entire house.

For waterproofing the foundation, the price will depend on the surface area that needs to be processed, on the set of measures, the type and quantity of waterproofing materials. In the easiest case, you will have to spend money only on bitumen. And in the most difficult - at the same time on materials for coating, roll, penetrating waterproofing and on the arrangement of drainage or a pressure wall.

For a tape and monolithic (solid) foundation, horizontal waterproofing is carried out in two places:

• At the level or lower by 15 - 20 cm of the level of the basement floor;
• In the basement and at the junction of the foundation with the wall.

Important! Horizontal waterproofing can only be done at the stage of building a house, so take care of it in time.

Before starting all work on arranging the foundation and basement, it is necessary to fill the bottom of the pit with greasy clay with a layer of 20 - 30 cm, and then carefully compact it. Concrete is poured from above with a layer of 5 - 7 cm. It is necessary in order to equip the waterproofing under the foundation. Before laying the waterproofing, the concrete must be dry and well set for at least 10 to 15 days. Next, the concrete is carefully coated with bituminous mastic over the entire area, and the first layer of roofing material is laid on it. Then the surface is again coated with mastic and another layer of roofing material is laid. A 5-7 cm layer of concrete is poured on top, which must be leveled and ironed.

Important! Ironing also refers to measures that provide waterproofing. It is done according to this technology: cement, sifted through a fine sieve, is poured on top of freshly poured concrete after 2 - 3 hours with a layer of 1 - 2 cm. Then it flattens out. After some time, the cement should get wet from the moisture contained in the concrete. Further, the surface is treated in the same way as with a conventional concrete screed - from time to time it is moistened with water until the concrete reaches strength and dries.

After completing the arrangement of the strip or pile foundation, it must also be waterproofed so that moisture does not rise up into the walls. To do this, the surface is opened with bituminous mastic, and roofing material or other rolled material is laid on top. The procedure is performed twice to get two layers. The edges of the roll material hanging from the foundation are not cut off, but wound down and then pressed against the vertical waterproofing.

Drainage system device

Depending on the level of groundwater and the structure of the soil, the waterproofing of the foundation may require the mandatory presence drainage system, which will collect and divert excess atmospheric and groundwater into a separate well. Basically, such a need arises with high groundwater and poor soil permeability.

To equip the drainage system, it is necessary to dig a trench along the perimeter of the object at a distance of at least 0.7 m from it. The depth depends on the level of the water table. Width - 30 - 40 cm. The trenches should be located with a slight slope towards the collecting well or pit. We lay geotextiles at the bottom, wrapping the edges on the sides of the trench by 80 - 90 cm. We fill in gravel or crushed stone with a layer of 5 cm along the entire length of the trench. Then we lay perforated drainage pipes with a slope of 0.5 cm for each linear m. We fill the gravel with a layer of 20 - 30 cm, after washing it so as not to clog the pipes. Then we wrap everything in the remaining edges of the geotextile. We bring the pipes into the collecting well. We fall asleep with soil.

The drainage system can be completed after the construction of the house is completed, or even after some time during operation, if such a need is identified.

Foundation vertical waterproofing

To perform waterproofing of the vertical surface of the foundation, you can use various materials, combining them with each other. From the options below, you can use one or more at once, depending on the individual conditions of construction.

The cheapest option to this day is the coating waterproofing of the foundation using bituminous resin. To do this, we buy bitumen, most often it is sold in bars.

Pour 30% used oil and 70% bitumen into a large container (pot, bucket, vat). The container must be heated, for this we make a fire under it or put it on a gas stove. When the bitumen is heated to the state of a liquid mixture, you can begin to apply it to the surface, which must be pre-leveled.

With a roller or brush, we apply bitumen to the surface of the foundation, trying to coat everything thoroughly. We begin to coat from the very sole of the foundation and finish at 15 - 20 cm above the soil surface. We apply 2 - 3 layers of bitumen so that the total thickness is 3 - 5 cm.

Important! All this time, the container with bitumen must be hot so that it does not freeze.

Bitumen penetrates and fills all the pores of concrete, preventing moisture from entering it. Will last 5 years - a relatively long time. Then it will begin to collapse and crack, letting water into the concrete.

To extend the service life of coating waterproofing, bitumen-polymer mastics can be used, they are devoid of the disadvantages of pure bitumen and are more durable. The market can offer both hot and cold applied mastics, as well as polymer solutions that have a rigid or liquid consistency. The methods of applying such materials can be different: using a roller, spatula, float or sprayer.

Pasting waterproofing of the foundation with rolled materials

Roll waterproofing materials can be used both separately and in addition to the coating method.

The most common and relatively cheap material for gluing insulation is roofing material. Before fixing it on the foundation surface, it must be treated with a bituminous primer or mastic, as in the previous method.

Then we heat the roofing material sheets with a gas burner and apply it to the vertical surface of the foundation with an overlap of 15 - 20 cm. This method is called fusing. But it is also possible to fix the roofing material with the help of special adhesive mastics. From above we again cover with bituminous mastic and glue another layer of roofing material.

Important! Before fusing the roofing material, it is necessary to turn the edges of the horizontal waterproofing down and press down, fusing the roll material from above.

Instead of roofing material, you can use more modern roll materials: TechnoNIKOL, Stekloizol, Rubitex, Hydrostekloizol, Technoelast or others. Their polymer base is polyester, which increases elasticity, wear resistance and improves performance. Despite the higher price compared to roofing material, these materials are recommended to be used for foundation waterproofing. But they will not be able to provide sufficient coating strength without mastic treatment, since they do not penetrate into the pores.

Instead of pasting waterproofing, you can use liquid rubber, which has good adhesion to the base, is durable and non-flammable. And most importantly, the surface is seamless, which provides better protection. If the waterproofing of the foundation is done manually, on your own, then one-component liquid rubber, for example, Elastopaz or Elastomiks, will do.

Material consumption per 1 m2 is 3 - 3.5 kg.

Elastopaz applied in layers, in two layers, drying will take at least 24 hours at a temperature of +20 °C. Sold in buckets of 18 kg, cheaper than Elastomiks. If the bucket is not completely used up, it can be sealed tightly and used later.

Elastomics applied in one layer, drying will take no more than 2 hours at a temperature of +15 ° C. Sold in buckets of 10 kg, more expensive than Elastopaz. If the bucket with Elastomix is ​​not completely used, the mixture cannot be stored, as the adsorbent activator, which is added to the mixture before use, will cause the contents of the bucket to turn into rubber within 2 hours.

Which of the materials to choose depends on the preferences of the owner and the time frame for execution. Before applying liquid rubber, the surface must be dedusted and treated with a primer. After an hour, apply liquid rubber with a roller, spatula or brush according to the instructions on the package.

A surface treated with liquid rubber may require protection from the elements if the backfill contains rocks or debris. In this case, the foundation must be covered with geotextile or a pressure wall must be equipped.

Penetrating foundation waterproofing

Penetrating waterproofing is called materials, the substances of which are able to penetrate into the structure of concrete by 100 - 200 mm and crystallize inside. Hydrophobic crystals prevent water from penetrating into the concrete structure and raising it through the capillaries. Concrete corrosion is also prevented and its frost resistance is increased.

Materials such as "Penetron", "Aquatron-6" and "Hydrotex" refer to penetrating anti-capillary waterproofing, differ in penetration depth and application method. Most often, internal concrete surfaces of the foundation, basement or basement are processed with such materials.

Penetrating waterproofing is best applied to wet concrete. To do this, the surface is first cleaned of dust, and then thoroughly moistened. We apply the material in several layers. After it is absorbed, the outer film can be removed.

For leveling and at the same time waterproofing the vertical surface of the foundation, you can use special plaster mixtures with the addition of moisture-resistant components: hydro concrete, polymer concrete or asphalt mastics.

Plastering is carried out using the same technology as plastering walls on lighthouses. To prevent cracks from appearing for a long time, it is recommended to apply it in a hot way. After drying, the plaster layer must be protected by performing a clay lock and backfilling with clay.

Screen waterproofing of the foundation

In fact, this method is a modern replacement for a clay castle. To protect the foundation from aggressive pressure water, bentonite mats are used, which are based on clay. By the way, they can be used in addition to other methods of waterproofing. Clay mats are fixed to the treated foundation with dowels. They are laid with an overlap of 15 cm. Then a pressure wall made of concrete is installed next to it, which will serve as an obstacle that does not allow the mats to swell.

During operation, the paper component of the mats is destroyed, and the clay is pressed into the surface of the foundation, performing a protective function.

The clay castle is also designed to prevent pressure water from reaching the foundation. To do this, a trench of 0.6 m is dug around it. A layer of rubble is poured into the bottom. Then the bottom and wall of the trench are rammed with greasy clay in several layers with breaks for drying. The remaining space is covered with either gravel or clay, and a blind area is equipped on top.

During spring floods, clay will not let water through to the foundation, and the lower moisture will leave through a layer of rubble.

Foundation waterproofing is a responsible business. In this article, we have considered only the most common methods. If you decide to do all the work yourself, remember that the main thing for the success of the business is to choose the right materials and the necessary activities. Then the foundation will last a long time and will not require costly repairs.

Drainage of the land plot is the most important stage in the preparation of the territory for construction. The use of drainage pipes significantly speeds up and simplifies the installation of drainage systems. Drainage pipes are necessary to drain water with a high level of groundwater.

Residents on the ground floor of an apartment building often have to think about how to waterproof the floor in an apartment. Despite the fact that there is a basement between the ground base and the residential part, very often dampness and mold penetrate through the concrete floors. Reliable waterproofing of the floor in the apartment will keep the heat in the home and prevent the formation of excess condensate.

Waterproofing of concrete floors

Very often, water accumulates in the basement of a multi-storey building due to an improper drainage system, breakdowns in the sewer, and groundwater leakage. Excess moisture creates extremely unfavorable conditions for the inhabitants of the higher-lying apartments, since heat is lost through cracks and cracks in the concrete floor, the air becomes musty, drips from constant condensation appear on the walls and mold starts. In addition to external shortcomings, excess moisture can lead to very disastrous consequences: wooden elements swell, deteriorate, plaster peels off, and even the adhesive under wallpaper and ceramic tiles cannot withstand constant exposure to moisture.

This problem, which is characteristic of apartments not only on the ground floor, is better to eliminate it with your own hands in a radical way than to endlessly rub mold spots and invest in additional heating devices. The best solution in this case is multi-layer waterproofing of the floor under the screed, which can eliminate all of the above inconveniences. In order to organize the process of waterproofing the floor with your own hands, you must perform several steps:

1. To dismantle the old floor covering down to the concrete base, regardless of the quality of the floor covering, both linoleum and wooden flooring will have to be removed.
2. Level the floor surface, with significant height differences of more than two centimeters, it is necessary to pour it onto a concrete screed using a reinforcing mesh. A leveling mixture is applied over the screed, which in its composition very often contains special plasticizers and waterproofing components.
3. Use a suitable waterproofing material, various types of materials can be used for living rooms, kitchens and bathrooms.

Important! In order to avoid flooding the entire apartment, if an emergency water leak occurs in the bathroom, or you are flooded by neighbors from above, you need to lower the floor level in the bathroom by two to three centimeters and provide for a high threshold or rim.

Before pouring the screed with your own hands, the old concrete base should be cleaned and leveled, all visible cracks must be examined and embroidered with a drill, then puttied with special mastic. To eliminate small potholes and crevices, you can use mounting foam, which is cut off from above and polished flush with the surface. A penetrating primer is applied to the prepared surface, as in the video, to improve adhesion to the poured mortar and prevent the absorption of water from the concrete mixture, which can worsen the structure of the screed.

Thus, a connected screed will be obtained, in which the concrete layers adjoin one another. Before pouring the concrete mixture, you need to install a system of beacons by level, which determine the even height of the floor, as the video shows. The finished mixture is laid out, starting from the far corner, and gradually stretched to the exit, after drying, the surface is cleaned of excess concrete, as shown in the video, and dried before further work for laying the finish coat. In large rooms, an elastic damper tape is laid along the perimeter of the wall, which will not allow the concrete screed to come into contact with the walls and will act as an expansion joint.

If you decide to arrange a screed with a separating layer, then you should lay a plastic film or a membrane coating with a 15-20 cm approach to the walls, glue the canvases at the joints with mounting tape, after which a damper tape should also be glued along the wall. Micro-reinforced fiberglass has proven itself as a filler for concrete screed, it is a strong durable material that improves the adhesion of concrete and prevents the penetration of moisture. The use of fiberglass when pouring the screed will make it possible to do without a reinforcing mesh and significantly increase the strength of the coating, prevent the appearance of cracks and unnecessary dust particles.

Important! When mixing a concrete-cement mixture, expanded clay or foam chips can be added to increase the level of thermal insulation of the coating.

Ready-made mixtures for pouring screeds are composed of lightweight components and do not create an increased load on the floor. To level the screed, it is also better to purchase ready-made mixtures that, in the desired consistency, are capable of self-spreading, while it is necessary to roll them with a spiked roller to drive out the remaining air. When the screed dries, it is treated with waterproofing compounds and begin to lay the finish coating.

Types of floor waterproofing materials

The modern assortment of building stores is extremely rich in various types and names of waterproofing materials for concrete screed on the floor. Any consumer will be able to buy affordable and quality materials for floor waterproofing, among which the following are in main demand:

• coating - primers and bituminous mastics;
• pasting, or sheet and roll;
• bulk waterproofers;
• bulk waterproofing mixtures.

In order to choose the best option, carefully read the instructions on the package and correlate the material consumption with the floor area to be repaired. Most often, special primers are used for waterproofing the screed, which can strengthen the concrete structure and improve adhesion to the adhesive base applied under linoleum or tiles. Surface and penetrating primers for concrete are available in several types:

• acrylic primers- based on acrylic polymers, diluted with water and combined with any porous surfaces; acrylic primers do not have a sharp unpleasant odor and are suitable for use in all residential areas; acrylic primers with fungicidal additives will eliminate the possibility of mold and fungi;
• polyurethane primers- increase the strength of the concrete coating and contribute to a tighter fit of the adhesive layer or polymer self-leveling floors;
• epoxy primers- are able to level microcracks in concrete and create a particularly durable surface that is not subject to deformation.

When using an acrylic primer with quartz sand, a durable, quick-drying, safe for human health surface is obtained, which is suitable for continuing repair work in a day. Depending on what kind of primer the floor surface was treated with, you need to choose the appropriate type of mastic. Acrylic mastic is a waterproof polymer mixture based on acrylic dispersion, which, when applied, produces a seamless, continuous surface.

Coating materials

Plasticizers are added to the latex-acrylic mastic, which improve the adhesive properties of the coating. Latex-acrylic sealant is mixed with cement in a ratio of 1:1 before application. In the process of preparing the mixture, you can add dyes, then you get a seamless, even surface of the desired color.

Bitumen-rubber, bitumen-latex, polyurethane-bitumen, rubber-bitumen mastics are replacing "hot" waterproofing methods, since they are more convenient and in no way inferior to them in waterproofing performance. All of the listed bitumen-polymer mastics create a homogeneous waterproofing coating, and at the same time do not have the usual disadvantages of petroleum bitumen: they do not spread at high temperatures and do not form cracks when the temperature drops.

Bitumen-polymer mastics, called "liquid rubber", can be applied both manually and mechanically if a large area is required to be treated. In rooms with increased load, bituminous mastic is applied in several layers with a reinforcing fiberglass mesh. Especially "liquid rubber" is in demand if it is necessary to waterproof the room in conditions of high humidity or the floors in the bathroom. When the “liquid rubber” hardens, a strong, elastic surface is formed, suitable for laying any floor covering.

In addition to "liquid rubber", you can use "liquid glass" - a cement mortar with the addition of components such as soda, calcium or sodium silicate, this material, which is applied with a roller or spatula, fills the most inaccessible places, potholes and cracks. In just a few hours, the resulting surface can be used for subsequent construction and finishing actions.

Roll type materials

For waterproofing the floor in the bathroom, roll-type materials are useful, which incorporate a fiberglass base and special additives from synthetic compounds and bitumen. Before laying rolled waterproofers, a flat base is primed with bituminous mastic, and then waterproofer strips (isoplast, ecoflex, and the like) are glued.

Bulk waterproofing materials are especially relevant in apartments on the ground floor, as they not only prevent the penetration of moisture, but also prevent heat loss. Bulk waterproofing is used both between two layers of concrete screed, and on top of concrete under a “dry screed” made of sheet materials (plywood, fiberboard, chipboard, gypsum board, OSB). In this case, vermiculite, mineral wool, ecowool, foam balls, granular foam concrete and expanded polystyrene and other hygroscopic materials are used. Bulk waterproofers are placed between the beacon guides to ensure compliance with the specified floor height when the bulk material sags. Before laying the bulk waterproofing agent, the concrete surface is covered with a film or membrane coating.

Water destroys the building structures of the building, making them unusable, reducing the service life. This is especially true for the underground part of the house, which is exposed to several types of moisture at once. Outside, rain and melt water has a devastating effect on it, and groundwater causes trouble in the soil, the level of which may vary depending on the season. Waterproofing methods for the foundation of a building depend on its type and method of manufacture (tape, slab, pillars or piles).

How does moisture affect

There are several ways in which water can lead to the destruction of a concrete foundation:

• Washing out of the structure of particles, the formation of bumps and potholes due to aggressive components in rain or ground water.
• Destruction when water penetrates into the body of the foundation and freezes it there. The fact is that water is the only substance on the planet that, when it goes into a frozen state, expands, and does not decrease in volume. Getting into the capillaries, it exerts strong pressure on the foundation from the inside, which leads to the appearance of cracks and crevices.

That is why the waterproofing of the foundation is important and should be carried out immediately after the construction of the structure.

Types of moisture protection by location

In general, the foundation waterproofing device is divided into three groups:

• horizontal;
• vertical;
• blind area device.

Depending on the type of foundation, several methods can be applied simultaneously.

Combined moisture protection

Horizontal is designed to prevent the penetration of moisture between different levels. It can be made from various materials. It is provided for all types of foundations (tapes, slabs, pillars, piles).

Vertical is needed so that groundwater cannot affect the foundation. Not all types of grounds need such protection. Required only for strip and column supports at home. Horizontal protection is provided for all types (device of tape, plate or free-standing supports).

The blind area device protects the base from the penetration of rainwater and melt in the spring. Here, the width of the structure is essential. If it is insufficient, then the moisture will be removed a short distance and will be able to get to the foundation. This type of protection reduces the load on all others, allowing them to increase their service life.

Vertical and horizontal insulation

Waterproofing with roll material

Foundation waterproofing can be carried out using various means of protection. Separately, it is worth considering the vertical and horizontal views and the blind area, since the materials in these cases will differ quite a lot.

Protection of the buried part of the building with vertical and horizontal insulation suggests that materials can be used for the following methods:

• pasting;
• coating;
• penetrating;
• plastering;
• injection;
• mounted;
• structural (additives in concrete).

It is worth separately understanding what material to use in each case.

Okleyechnaya

Such protection of the structure is carried out using roll options on a bituminous binder. Fusion or bonded material can be used. Built-up types imply the presence of an adhesive layer that is heated at high temperatures and adheres to the surface. To fix the insulation without an adhesive layer on the base, it will be necessary to use bituminous mastic as a connecting agent.

Covering materials include:

The use of roofing material is the most common method

• only(the material is outdated and it is not recommended to use it as a protection for the critical structures of the house, but it is worth noting its low cost);
• glassine(waterproofing of the foundation based on thick dense cardboard, which is impregnated with bituminous binder, cannot be attributed to reliable and durable methods, but will significantly save money);
• ruberoid(remains the leader among rolled insulation due to its affordable price, the service life is quite short);
• polymeric materials impregnated with bitumen fiberglass or polyester backing(here, as an example, the following common options for protecting the walls and foundations of a house from moisture can be given: Linokrom, Gidroizol, TechnoNIKOL, Stekloizol, Bikrost, etc.).

The last group is the most reliable option, but the price of such material can be quite high.

But here it is worth considering their long service life, which will reduce the frequency of repairs. The advantages of the pasting method include the fact that it can be provided for various surfaces:

• concrete;
• wood;
• metal;
• asphalt concrete;
• old waterproofing coating (during repair).

Coating insulation

Foundation waterproofing in this case is most often performed using bituminous mastics. To protect the buried part of the building and the walls of the house, one-component and two-component compositions are used. In addition to bitumen on the market building materials now you can find more reliable and modern options:

• polymer resins;
• bitumen-polymer resins;
• bitumen-rubber mastics.

Unlike ordinary bitumen, which cracks at low temperatures, these mixtures with additional additives are resistant to cold. The disadvantage of more modern options is their price, which cannot compete with conventional bitumen-based mastic. The latter is best used to protect the structures of the house with a deep location of groundwater.

Penetrating insulation

Waterproofing the foundation in this way prevents moisture from entering the concrete capillaries. This increases the strength of the surface layer of concrete. Waterproofing strip foundation in this way is often carried out using an additional coating or pasting layer.

On average, the penetration depth is 15-25 cm, but some materials are able to go deep by 90 cm. It is important to note that such methods are only suitable for concrete. When used on brick and stone, they are useless.

The most common compositions for this method of processing steel:

1. "Penetron";
2. "Peneplug";
3. "Hydrohit";
4. "Penecrete".
5. "Osmosil".

Protection of the concrete base from moisture

The technology for protecting the foundations and walls of the house in this way implies a thoroughly cleaned, degreased and even base, therefore it is recommended for use on new buildings.

Paint and plaster insulation

Waterproofing the foundation with your own hands using paint and plaster compositions is not durable and reliable. If possible, it is better to give preference to other ways to protect the foundations and walls of the house, since the average service life of such materials is 5 years.

Injection isolation

Technique for introducing polyurethane resin into the base

The option is suitable for repairing a base that has already been put into operation. The technology allows you to protect the foundation without excavation work. Injectors are introduced to the supports and deliver the insulating substance. The following materials can be used as raw materials:

• foam;
• resins;
• acrylate gels;
• rubber;
• cement-containing mixtures;
• polymer compositions.

Mounted insulation

Waterproofing the foundation in this way allows you to most effectively deal with the high level of groundwater and their high pressure. It is mainly used for strip foundations when it is required to protect an underground room.

The most reliable way of mounted waterproofing can be called a steel caisson. In this case, the structure of the walls and floor of the basement is sheathed from the inside with sheets of steel 4-6 mm thick. The option is very expensive, so it is extremely rarely used.

Brick walls are sometimes erected outside, but in most cases this method is used in conjunction with a pasting or coating option. The brick is more likely not to protect the foundation from moisture, but to protect the waterproofing from mechanical damage.

blind area device

Do-it-yourself waterproofing of the foundation in this case involves using the following blind area materials to protect the structure from the outside from atmospheric moisture:

Blind area production

• concrete;
• asphalt concrete;
• clay;
• paving slabs;
• diffusion membranes.

The choice of the method of manufacturing the blind area depends on the preferences of the future owner of the house, the architectural solution and the availability of materials. The cheapest option for the blind area will be its laying of concrete or asphalt. This option is not attractive. appearance, but allows you to protect the foundation without much labor. In addition, savings on raw materials for manufacturing are provided. The blind area made of concrete or asphalt is popular in the mass construction of multi-apartment residential buildings and administrative and public buildings.

Waterproofing technology depending on the type of foundation

Each type of support under a building needs certain protection options. Before waterproofing the foundation, you need to find out what is required for a full range of activities.

Strip foundation protection

The waterproofing of the strip foundation is different for the monolithic and prefabricated versions. Let's take a look at the assembly first. To prevent damage to the underground walls of the house and flooding of the basement, the following measures will be required:

• arrangement of a reinforced joint between factory-made foundation slabs and concrete blocks of basement walls;
• laying the roll material in the first seam between the blocks, which is located below the basement floor mark;
• rolled material is mounted along the edge of the foundation at the junction of the walls and the supporting structure;
• vertical insulation of the underground part of the tape from the outside;
• blind area device.

Protection strip base

It is important to note that at the junction of foundation slabs and concrete blocks, it is impossible to lay materials on a bituminous binder. This can lead to displacement of elements relative to each other. Only a thickened concrete joint is suitable here. Insulation along the edge of the foundation is necessary so that the different moisture content of the material of the supporting parts of the structure and wall fences does not lead to destruction. For horizontal insulation, gluing methods are used.

It is better to perform vertical insulation from the outside, since this will not only protect the room, but also the load-bearing elements. In new construction, walls can be treated with gluing or coating materials. The interior is being renovated. In this case, a penetrating or injection type is used.

If you need to perform a set of waterproofing works for a monolithic tape, then it is worth considering the following measures:

• vertical isolation;
• waterproofing along the edge of the foundation;
• blind area device.

Materials are selected in the same way as for the prefabricated version.

Protection of columnar and pile foundations

A simple method of moisture protection

Here the simplest type of protection against moisture is used. It will only be necessary to make insulation along the edge of the foundation. Its location depends on the material of the grillage. If the strapping is made of the same material as the foundation, then the roll materials are laid at the point of contact between the grillage and the walls. You can consider another option. For example, wooden house rests on metal piles. In this case, the lower crown of the walls will serve as a grillage, so the insulating layer is laid on the heads of the supporting elements.

Foundation plate protection

To protect against moisture, the following measures will need to be provided here:

• concrete preparation of lean concrete to protect the slab from underground water and level the base;
• waterproofing for concrete preparation;
• protection from external moisture.

Foundation slab waterproofing

For the manufacture of the second layer, roll methods are used when installing the plate. It is best to focus on modern materials, since after pouring the slab, it is almost impossible to monitor the condition of such insulation or carry out repairs. For small buildings with a low degree of responsibility and low water saturation of the soil, polyethylene film is often used.

To protect the plate from moisture that can get from above, it must be treated with penetrating compounds. Sometimes in private housing construction they resort to using the following method: a solution for penetrating insulation is introduced into the concrete.

Also, after pouring the slab, it will be necessary to provide for the laying of roll material in the places where the walls are supported.

Before you properly waterproof the foundation (tape plates, piles, pillars), you need to carefully study the issue. It is important to use quality materials. If you save at this stage of construction, you can spend a large amount of money on repairs during operation.

To preserve the integrity of finishing materials and other structural elements of the floor, it is waterproofed. The absence of moisture on protected objects will prevent the development of fungus and corrosion on them, and will help increase their service life.

If the housing is located in an old house where repairs have already been made more than once, then the maximum good decision will be the dismantling of the entire floor covering up to the concrete screed or base. If the floor is equipped with wooden floors, and they were installed a long time ago, then only an expert can establish the need to dismantle them, since they can be decrepit, which can make a new repair short-lived.

The floor needs to be levelled. To create an even base, a special repair compound is used, sometimes self-leveling mixtures are used. It is not necessary to use expensive waterproofing materials to seal irregularities, small cracks. However, the floor must be as level as possible so that the owners have the opportunity to use floor coverings sold in rolls, or quickly install the floor using a polymer bulk composition.

If the waterproofing of the floor takes place as part of a large-scale repair, during which redevelopment will be made, you must first dismantle all unnecessary partitions, ledges, and only then carry out waterproofing. The layer must be applied hermetically, capturing the entire floor or all possible parts of it. Extra items and old structures will not allow a full coating, therefore, they can greatly reduce the quality and usefulness of the waterproofing as a whole.

On material for waterproofing and provision high level work cannot be saved. The purpose of the protective coating is to prevent moisture from entering the room., which is necessary to prevent the accumulation of dampness, the deterioration of the quality of building materials. For residents of apartments, this aspect is especially important, since if a significant amount of water leaks, for example, in a bathroom, a quarrel with neighbors may occur, there is a possibility of imposing obligations to pay compensation for damaged furniture.

The floor in the bathroom and kitchen, according to building standards, should be several centimeters lower than in other rooms. Moisture lingers in a limited area, allowing you to quickly eliminate it. To comply with this parameter, a step is made, sometimes limited to stuffing a special border.

How to choose the right waterproofing material

Depending on the type of floor, the reliability of waterproofing and the method of its application, there are options:

• materials sold in rolls or intended for gluing;
• compositions and mastics, for the application of which a brush or roller is required;
• mixtures for pouring;
• filling materials;
• penetrating waterproofing, at the same time protecting the floor from aggressive environments;
• plaster;
• polymer compositions for spraying.

For the installation of waterproofing with your own hands, the most suitable are coating materials, which can be quickly applied, and it will take a maximum of several days to dry, and plaster options that are ready for further flooring the next day. It is more difficult to use rolled materials, so non-professionals should first learn how to lay such waterproofing, and then carry out large-scale work in their own home.

Master the technology of use penetrating waterproofing quite simple, but you will have to read the instructions and strictly follow the instructions covering the correct distribution of the material, the care of the drying coating, and follow all the prescribed procedures. In an apartment, the use of penetrating compounds is undesirable, since the base of the floor should be strongly moistened before applying them. Such an event may cause water leakage to neighbors and related proceedings.

Bulk waterproofing used if it is possible to create a screed. It should be remembered that its layer will be thick enough and can visually reduce the height of the ceilings after repair. It is easy to pour the granules on the floor in an even layer and fill them with water, its quantity will be indicated on the package. After hitting water, the granules will turn into a gel-like paste, which will prevent further water flow.

They do not need protection from water, since they themselves are not able to detain it. They are often referred to as 3D floors. They look beautiful, making them yourself is quite difficult. It is necessary to follow the application instructions written on the packaging, which without the explanation of a professional can be misunderstood, however, with care and patience, you can create an unusual coating combined with waterproofing in one go. Sprayed polymer coatings require special equipment. It is necessary to stock up on overalls, it is desirable to see how professionals apply this coating.

It is necessary to distinguish finishing materials from waterproofing. For example, floor tiles are not a reliable barrier against water leakage. Even with the use of polyurethane or silicone grout, which can be used to process seams, if a significant amount of liquid gets on the floor, there is a risk of it quickly leaking to neighbors or being absorbed into building materials that are not intended to be protected from moisture.

Lacquer and oil paint do not have waterproofing properties. At first, they can be a reliable barrier, but after 7-10 years, microcracks appear, then significant cracking of the material is visible, so any material should be used before applying them to ensure durable protection from moisture.

Leveling the floor before laying the insulation

When using a self-levelling compound, the surface of the concrete base should be carefully leveled before laying the insulation roll. There should be no gaps between the concrete and the waterproofing coating, so the alignment is carried out carefully. The base of the floor is completely cleaned of dirt, you can use a vacuum cleaner. A clean surface must be primed in one layer.

Depending on the qualities of the material, the dry mixture is diluted with water or liquid, which must be purchased separately. The composition is evenly applied to the entire surface of the floor, gaps should not be allowed. If there is a risk of formation of small air bubbles that may remain inside the coating, the waterproofing is rolled with a roller equipped with a continuous layer of needle nozzles. It simultaneously participates in the correct distribution of the solution and removes all bubbles.

Applying mastic

To protect the floor from moisture with a pasting material, an additional purchase of an adhesive or special mastic will be required. Professionals use an additional coating for mastic, which differs depending on its composition. For the polymer variety, you can choose from PVC film, fiberglass or polyisobutene. If bituminous is used, then brizol, hydroisol and the like can serve as an additional coating.

The prepared base is completely covered with bituminous emulsion. Its use is recommended, since its composition is the most neutral, it does not harm the body of workers, and later the residents of the building. It is made using ordinary water, after mixing the solution, harmful solvents do not evaporate. The primer must be applied in two equal layers, according to the rules, the second is done perpendicular to the first.

During the drying of the primer, you need to stick a special tape, it should cover the corners, joints with walls along the perimeter. During gluing, the tape is deeply immersed in the material. After carrying out this stage of work, the places glued with tape are carefully covered with a primer again.

Laying

When the preparatory layer is completely dry, the laying of the waterproofing layer begins. Self-adhesive carpets just need to be well leveled and, using a little force, press them to the floor with a roller or hands.

Waterproofing carpets of a standard type can be fixed by connecting a building hair dryer; if not, a burner is used. The bottom coating melts a little on the outside, after which it immediately presses against the base. Places of overlap should be straightened, if necessary, you can re-fasten peeled or crumpled strips.

When the material has formed a flat surface, you can fix the strips by welding. During the execution of the work, it is necessary to make an overlap on the walls, preferably at least 25 cm. After completing the screed or finishing coat, all excess is easily cut off. The corners can be additionally glued with a second layer of material, forming patches, they must be securely sealed.

The result of the work is an absolutely even, sealed coating through which liquid cannot seep. It is allowed to pour a concrete screed only after the adhesive or bituminous mastic has completely dried, which usually takes no more than a day.

Mastic may not be suitable for warm floors, since with prolonged heating it is able to evaporate an unpleasant, characteristic odor. It is safe to use it in the hallway, and other substances should be selected for waterproofing the rest of the premises.

They are produced dry, similar in consistency to powders, sometimes in the form of mastics and pastes. Before work, the mixture is diluted with water or emulsion. Liquid waterproofing or an ointment-like consistency is initially sold in a form ready for immediate application after opening the can.

The mixture is applied in several ways:

• fly brush, which is fixed on a stick. It can be applied in this way if the consistency of the solution resembles paint or is more liquid;
• spatula equipped with teeth. Suitable if the coating has a denser composition.

Coating waterproofings, depending on the consistency, differ in scope.

1. Liquid formulations must be applied in thick layers, completely sealing the space, at least 2 times. Most often, they are made from oxidized petroleum bitumen of a fairly small thickness: about 1 mm and above. A screed is usually poured onto the coating, so after it dries, you need to check that there is no damage to the base, there are no wet places left. Surface contamination should be avoided, so the next coat should be applied as soon as possible. If this is not possible, then the coating can be covered with a film or monitored to maintain its cleanliness.
2. Bitumen-containing pastes applied with a layer of 3 mm. They can simultaneously serve as high-quality insulation and replace the concrete screed. The material is applied in a sufficiently thick layer, so its reinforcement is necessary. Before application, a PVC mesh is applied and fixed on the entire surface of the floor. The laying of the coating takes place directly on it.

After creating the first layer, you need to wait for it to dry completely, the time of its onset is indicated on the production packaging. When the surface hardens, a second layer is applied, preferably applied perpendicular to the first. Sometimes the instructions provide for the imposition of a third layer on a still wet surface. In this case, the master needs to purchase special shoes or nozzles with thin but frequent spikes so as not to damage the material.

As a basis, elastic polyester, fiberglass or fiberglass is used. Bitumen is applied on both sides of the material. To ensure reliable adhesion to the subfloor, an adhesive is located at the bottom. High-quality waterproofing includes a special component on the upper part, which is activated when interacting with the topcoat adhesive, improving its action.

Sometimes it is necessary to independently sprinkle the entire top layer of the already laid waterproofing with medium-grained sand. It increases the reliability of adhesion to the adhesive. When the insulating material has hardened sufficiently, it can be swept off the coating.

There are two groups of materials that can be applied with an adhesive. One of them is fixed with a burner or a building hair dryer. The second is equipped with a system that facilitates installation. It is enough to separate the working part from the film and stick it on a horizontal surface, having previously leveled it.

High-quality waterproofing of the floor allows you to protect its structure from moisture, which can destroy or damage some of its components. For apartment owners, protection against water penetration through the floor will help to avoid flooding neighbors and, as a result, the obligation to pay money for repairs.

Video - How to waterproof the floor

Video - Floor waterproofing