Diseases of cucumbers with photos. Treatment and prevention of diseases. Burn on cucumber leaves Sunburn on cucumbers what to do


The main problems and mistakes that may arise when growing cucumbers Every summer resident grows cucumbers, and it doesn’t matter whether in a greenhouse or open ground. It is more important to understand agricultural technology and not make mistakes, otherwise there will be no cucumbers in the beds or in the greenhouse. Therefore, today we decided to study the main problems and mistakes when growing cucumbers.

Cucumbers: basic information

Planting, gartering, watering and covering are far from the main points in growing cucumbers, although they are very serious. It is necessary to understand all the smallest details and favorable factors, and only then is a good harvest possible, in which each cucumber will be one to one. If you make serious mistakes, which we will talk about later, the color and ovary will dry out and crumble, and the fruits will turn yellow, lose shape, and disappear on the stem.

All problems when growing cucumbers can be prevented or solved in time, and only in this case is it possible that your efforts will not be in vain.

What problems can we encounter in growing cucumbers?

We would like to say right away that the signs of problems, as well as the problems themselves, in fact, can vary depending on the geographical location, climate, topography of the site, general temperature and its changes, quality and composition of the soil, as well as dozens of other factors and, naturally, your personal attitude towards cultivated plants. But let’s hope that the list of cucumber tips collected by our experts will help you at least partially solve the problems and significantly increase your harvest, while at the same time bringing its quality to the required level!

Frequent diseases of cucumbers

One of the reasons for frequent diseases of cucumbers is thick planting. In this case, the plants cannot be properly processed, interfere with each other’s development, are not ventilated, and trap many infections in the dense greenery that should have been ventilated. In addition, a very dense planting dies faster, since even if a disease or pests of cucumbers are detected on time (at least quickly), they have already spread to many plants in the garden bed or greenhouse.

It should be remembered that depending on the variety, there should be 2-4 plants per square meter of planting. We try to take up as much land as possible, planting cucumbers every 10-15 cm in a row, which is very incorrect and leads to problems.

One of the main problems of growing cucumbers is frequent diseases.

Insect attacks on cucumbers

Colonies of pests can ruin the crop in no time. Readers of DachaDecor.ru are well aware of this, who follow our news through subscription and have studied material about spider mites and other pests. But serious damage is also possible due to the vital activity of the cucumber mosquito and the sprout fly.

These insects can reproduce well in organic matter that fertilizes green beds. And most often they appear when fertilizers are poorly incorporated into the soil. Settling on organic fertilizers, insects lay eggs, from which larvae and adult insects develop, which then destroy the bushes and fruits themselves. Therefore, it is necessary to strictly follow agricultural technology and be sure to care for cucumbers in exactly the way that experts indicate.

Yellowing of cucumber leaf

Often cucumbers are attacked by spider mites, which we remind you about again, since the insect can very quickly destroy plantings and crops. But the manifestation here is specific, we want to pay attention to the yellowing of the leaf in spots, as if acid had dripped onto the cucumber leaves.

Such damage can cause drying out and lethargy, and therefore improper development of the fetus itself. What's most interesting is the cause of the problem. It turns out that the culprit may be the covering that we use at the very beginning of growing cucumbers, when the bushes are in the seedling stage. Further, film cover is used to limit sunlight in hot summers, which can burn the green mass. And it is the film material that causes such burns.

We all know that cucumbers should not be watered in the heat, much less irrigated by sprinkling, as burns on the leaves are possible. But at the same time, we create problems on our own by stretching the film over the beds. By watering in the evening, we contribute to the appearance of condensation, which, collecting in drops, falls down onto the leaves. Water on the leaves and the morning sun cause burns.

Poor growth of young cucumber seedlings

The reason for this is simple - the plants are crowded with stronger plants, as well as their root systems. Therefore, you should promptly remove weeds around and inside the garden bed, thereby freeing up the soil and helping to increase the consumption of nutrients from the soil, which are no longer spent on feeding weeds. In addition, planting without weeds is less dense, and therefore better ventilated and less susceptible to various diseases!

Varied harvest on cucumber bushes

The problem can occur for many reasons, but one of the simplest is uneven harvesting. You shouldn’t wait a week to pick a bucket of cucumbers at once, you shouldn’t even wait two, because cucumbers love quick picking, even every day. If you leave cucumbers on the bush, this will significantly reduce the rate of development of young ovaries, which will certainly affect the end result.

Collect cucumbers every day, every other day or two, but not less often, especially at the moment when active fruiting has begun!

One of the serious problems is poor, low-quality or inconsistent cucumber harvest

There are a lot of similar problems, and it is simply physically impossible to describe each of them in detail. Therefore, we have focused on the most common ones, and then we want to move on to the mistakes of summer residents, due to which these problems, as well as many others, arise.

Typical mistakes when growing cucumbers in the country

We will present a little more errors, since it would be much more correct to study them and eliminate them as much as possible!

Improper ventilation of beds

Under no circumstances should you allow drafts or sudden changes in temperature in the greenhouse if you decide to ventilate the cucumbers. This should only be done when the temperature exceeds +30°C, and very carefully, opening the greenhouse on each side one by one.

Excessive watering

Cucumbers love water, but only in moderate quantities at all times. You shouldn’t dry the soil, but you also shouldn’t overwater it, because if we are talking about a greenhouse, then constant stagnation of moisture in the soil is a direct path to rot and various pests, which will be too difficult to remove from this environment!

Systemic and uniform watering of cucumbers is considered correct; you should not overwater the plants.

Inept formation of bushes

If you leave cucumbers to their own devices, then this is exactly the harvest you will get - weak and very insignificant. Therefore, try not only to water and ventilate, tie up and carefully feed the plants, but also to shape them.

Be sure to remove excess shoots by pinching them to reduce the density of the bush. This is especially necessary at first, and in the lower part of the bush. Remove axillary shoots several sheets from the soil surface, do this in the morning, while the sun is not so high.

Planting cucumbers in one place

If cucumbers produce a good harvest, this is not a reason to grow them in one place for decades. No, of course, this is possible, and we will only be glad if good and rich soil can saturate the plants with nutrients. But often the soil accumulates not only positive, but also negative factors - infections, insect larvae, and so on. And, even if in the first few years the cucumbers did not get sick, then later they can be completely destroyed in the shortest possible time. Try to change the location at least once every few years.

Planting a cucumber according to the calendar

The lunar calendar, holiday calendar, and other dates are not at all a reason to rely on them, because planting plants has a number of requirements, and this also applies to cucumbers. It is necessary to choose the optimal moment according to the weather, wait for the soil to warm up, and calculate the planting time so that the seedlings are not damaged by night frosts. Of course, sometimes, say, seeds planted on Maundy Thursday give excellent seedlings, but we do not recommend being tied to this date!

Planting very mature cucumber seedlings

Cucumbers planted by seedlings often show good results, but for this you do not need to overexpose the seedlings, grow them up to half a meter and immediately transfer them to open ground. There may be two negative factors at once - the seedlings will not support their weight during transplantation and are injured, or the seedlings from the apartment (greenhouse) will not have time to adapt, will not harden and will simply disappear at the first draft or frost.

Tall bushes of seedlings are far from an indicator of plant strength and a good harvest

Planting seeds in poor soil

Hoping for the usual chance, many summer residents practice planting in simple, poor soil. At the same time, they treat the seeds with growth stimulants, perform stratification, or otherwise prepare them for a better harvest in the future. But all this is a waste of time if cucumbers are planted in soil that is not fertilized with organic matter. If you do not have the opportunity to use organic fertilizers, look at our articles on compost and other fertilizers for the garden, with their help you can find a way out of the situation.

"Equal" to an ecological product

Why not? You always want to eat something tasty and healthy, but it won’t always grow without proper processing. Many infections, pests and diseases can only be killed by chemicals, and therefore you should either use very strong varieties and preach ideal agricultural practices, or process cucumbers as standard if you choose modern fast-growing hybrids.

Ignoring bush diseases

The leaves turned yellow - no big deal, one bush disappeared - no problem, because there are more... and so on. This is a very wrong opinion, because signs of plant disease in the garden are an alarm bell that requires immediate action. In general, triple treatment, namely preventive treatment, is considered correct, even if only minor signs of cucumber disease have appeared. Treat the plants according to the first leaves, just before flowering or 10 days after the first treatment, as well as two weeks before the green leaves appear.

One-time fertilizer for cucumbers

And again to fertilizers. We said earlier that without organic matter, growing this crop is simply unrealistic. Organic matter gradually releases nutrients and removes harmful salts from the soil. The same goes for mineral fertilizers, which cucumbers love no less. But they love it gradually and in small quantities. Therefore, you can feed the plants once every ten days by pouring a bucket of water with mineral fertilizers per square meter (1 tablespoon of complex fertilizer per 10 liters of water).

Waiting for large cucumbers

Under no circumstances should you pick large cucumbers, or rather, constantly wait for them. It turns out that the cucumber is a smart plant that works not for harvest, but for seeds. Therefore, if you are waiting for a large fruit on a bush, when it appears, the growth of the rest simply stops. Don't let the plant get too close to its target and you'll get a much bigger harvest!

More plants in the garden means more harvest!

This is generally a wrong principle, since each crop variety has a recommended planting density. In general, it is correct to grow only a few bushes per square meter (although at our dachas we plant seeds every 15-20 cm). See the planting instructions for each new variety and be sure to follow the recommendations!

This list of typical errors is also not complete, and many of them may be regional and directly dependent on the variety and other factors. Therefore, just try to follow agricultural practices, love the plants and provide them with the best care. It is in this case that a high-quality harvest is possible.

Mistakes and problems in growing cucumbers Even the most experienced pros have them, so don’t be upset if for the second or third year in a row you fail to reach your previously set goals. Every day you gain certain experience and learn with us, and therefore soon we will have a really serious harvest of juicy and crispy cucumbers.

Learning to grow cucumbers correctly (video)

We appeal to our regular readers and newcomers to the DachaDecor.ru website with a request to share their observations and ideas in the comments to each article. This information is useful for all of us! We recommend reading the article about common or sweet anise.

DachaDecor.ru

Itching after a sunburn and how to eliminate it

  • How to prevent burns

Excessive exposure to ultraviolet rays on the skin leads to severe burns. It only takes twenty minutes of ultraviolet exposure for a burn to appear on the skin: it begins to peel off. There’s no point in talking about pleasant sensations here, especially with the appearance of redness. Particularly unpleasant is the itching after a sunburn, irritation, and redness of the skin. The body is almost impossible to touch.

Inept use of sunscreens can aggravate the situation if the cosmetics are chosen incorrectly or do not have sufficient protection. Therefore, during the period of activation of the sun, it is not recommended to be in open spaces or sunbathe.

Characteristics of burns

According to their strength, ultraviolet skin lesions are divided into three categories:

  • first degree burn;
  • and III degree.

The first degree includes lesions that do not cause much discomfort. Characterized by slight redness of the skin.

Stronger sun exposure makes the skin redder, irritation and itching, general weakness and discomfort. The temperature may rise and nausea may occur, but this is a completely normal reaction of the body.

The most severe third degree burn manifests itself as follows:

  • blisters;
  • loss of consciousness;
  • severe itching of the skin.

Typically, such severe lesions should only be treated under the supervision of a physician in a medical facility. The first and second degrees of skin damage from sun rays can be treated at home to get rid of discomfort and relieve itching. The main thing is not to make the situation even worse.

How to give first aid

The skin affected by ultraviolet rays becomes inflamed, intense heat is felt in this area, and the body temperature rises. Cold is the most effective method to relieve itchy skin. You can also use methods such as:

  • take a shower or bath in cool water;
  • drink as much clean water as possible;
  • take one or two aspirin tablets, which relieves skin irritation;
  • Sprinkle the burn area with baby talcum powder or powder.

Consequences of tanning

Severe burns can appear on the body even in the first degree of damage, if exposure to rays is systematic. The burned area itches very much, is more likely to become infected, loses its elasticity, and ages. This is why you need to drink as much fluid as possible and use antiseptics, creams and lotions.

Treatment rules

In order for the period of treatment and rehabilitation of the skin to pass without consequences, it is necessary to adhere to several important rules.

  1. Do not expose your skin to external irritants or sun rays.
  2. To relieve the burning sensation, use cooling moisturizers after sunbathing.
  3. You can take painkillers, for example, Ibuprofen, Aspirin.
  4. Be sure to monitor the body's water balance and skin hydration. For topical use, various creams and lotions with calamine are useful.
  5. To prevent allergic reactions, we use antihistamine tablets and drops, such as Suprastin.
  6. Do not injure the skin by piercing blisters or removing peeling layers of the epidermis. This will lead to infection and skin color will change.
  7. When exposed to stress, including sunburn, the body loses vitamins and minerals. And to restore them, you need to make various vitamin masks. Here you can use special creams with vitamin E, or make it yourself by adding a few drops of the vitamin to your hand or face cream. The burns will heal faster, the burning and peeling will go away. You can also use vitamin D.

Traditional methods

Natural products are a great way to provide first aid for a sunburn. To do this you need to do:

TutZud.ru

What should I do? The cucumber leaves have started to turn yellow.

intense

I do not agree with any of the respondents! This is most likely not a disease, but: The earth is compacted or clayey; No fertilizers are used; Weeds grow around the plants; Lack of light.

I will help you fix what is wrong with you!

1. Remove all weeds.
2. Create an earthen border around the plants using a hoe to prevent water from flowing into unnecessary places.
3. Place half a bucket of sand under each bush. This is necessary for loosening, which is very necessary. Sand will seep deep when watering.
4. If you do not use any fertilizers, then buy a pack of ammophos and a microelement supplement (boron, calcium, copper, manganese in it if you find such a pack) at the garden store. For 10 liters of water, pour 1 and a half tablespoons of ammophos and water generously; if there is not enough, dilute more. After a week, it would be good to sprinkle some ash or manure and water it. And again, 2 weeks after the ash or manure, add a tablespoon of microelement supplement and half a spoon of ammophos per 10 liters and pour.
5. Water the cucumbers every other day.

You should not recognize your plants after 2 weeks! Fertilizers will make the plants strong (and sores do not stick to strong plants!), sand will loosen the soil a little, and weeds will not interfere (if there are any).
And also, next year make beds with a lot of sand and dig them up. This is very necessary!

Alexey Nazemnov

autumn is just around the corner :)

Luda Vysotskaya

Every day I pick off those that have turned yellow or are starting to turn yellow.
and throw it away. Otherwise, by mid-summer everyone will be amazed
downy mildew.

Pests of cucumbers: photos and pest control. Mites and aphids on cucumbers...
Most often, plants are affected by the following diseases: powdery mildew, downy mildew or peronospora, bacteriosis, ascochyta blight, root rot or fusarium, gray rot, brown (olive) spot. ... You can see these cucumber pests in the photo.
udec.ru

Daniil Zolotarev

If the cucumber leaves begin to turn yellow and dry out, then you need to turn the leaf over and see if it is an aphid. Aphids feed on plant sap, which is why cucumber leaves turn yellow and dry. If you notice aphids on cucumbers, take immediate action, as aphids quickly attack healthy cucumber bushes, moving to new and fresh leaves. You can use a soap solution to combat it and spray it on the affected plants. You can also use chemical protection agents, such as Iskra, Agravertin, Fitoverm and other preparations against aphids.

It is possible that the leaves turn yellow and dry out due to downy mildew infection (downy mildew). This is a fungal disease. In order not to lose the harvest, you need to take measures, for example, use drugs to combat this disease. For example, the practically safe drug “Fitosporin”, which not only fights fungal diseases, but also is additionally a plant food. I myself use Fitosporin, but you can ask about other drugs in specialized stores.

Typak Znakov

sunburn or not ammonia the mole sawed off part of the root

Mityai Bukhankin

I would feed the cucumbers. They grow, but they don’t give them anything to eat; you can’t grow on water alone.

Ksyunya

We never fertilize, watering every evening, the soil is wonderful. so I don’t agree with inte*’s answer. I agree with Daniil Zolotarev's answer.

Made in Paradise

I plant Chinese twigs and there are no headaches, they multiply until frost and don’t get sick!!!

Kocheva Polina

Either a spider mite or a burn. Either treat it with poison or emerald.

are cucumbers healthy???

Vera N

Cucumbers help fight swelling, lower blood pressure, and normalize heart rate. Among other things, this vegetable has antipyretic, anti-sclerotic, and analgesic properties (which is why cucumber has found wide use in folk medicine).
====
The cucumber can be applied to the burn site, only immediately.

Kisyakov Seryozha Konstantinovich

Not useful in any way

*Queen*

They are useful, but they do not contain vitamins, but microelements, which are also needed.

● Cucumbers are useful for cleansing the intestines and other internal organs. Cucumber promotes general detoxification of the body, this is due to the fact that cucumbers consist of 95% pure natural water.

● Cucumbers are rich in potassium, magnesium and calcium, which have a beneficial effect on the functioning and functioning of all organs and systems of our body.

`”*° Lyusenka `”*°

Cucumbers contain 95 - 96% water, 1 - 2.5% sugars, up to 0.88% proteins, 0.7% fiber, 0.5% minerals (including potassium compounds, phosphorus, iron). Vitamin C in cucumbers is from 4 to 13 mg per 100 g of raw weight. The content of vitamin B2 in cucumbers is higher than in radishes, B1 is higher than in beets, and iodine is higher than in other vegetable crops. Carotene, organic acids, essential oils and other beneficial substances are also found in cucumbers.

Cucumbers have a diuretic effect, promote the removal of water and salt from the body, which is very important for people suffering from diseases of the cardiovascular system. They have a low calorie content (11.3 - 14 calories per 100 g of wet weight), so they are recommended for overweight, obese, and obese people.

The use of cucumbers in folk medicine has been known since the time of Hippocrates. Cucumbers and cucumber juice reduce and stop coughing. In the past, cucumber juice was drunk to treat pulmonary tuberculosis. Cucumber juice and crushed fresh cucumbers are taken as a gentle laxative for constipation, and as a diuretic for dropsy. Cucumbers have a beneficial effect on the nervous system. They have antipyretic, anti-inflammatory, emollient and analgesic effects. Drink cucumber juice for severe pain in the stomach and intestines.

In folk medicine of the Karachay-Cherkess Autonomous Region, a decoction of old fruits and vines is taken for jaundice and liver diseases, and a decoction of flowers is taken for malaria. A drink is prepared from cucumber seeds and is used for fever, renal colic, painful urination and respiratory diseases.

Powder of dried fruits without seeds is used to cover burns. Cucumber juice and an aqueous infusion of green cucumber skins are used as a commonly available cosmetic product for washes and lotions for acne, freckles, birthmarks and excessive tanning. Cucumber powder is also used for cosmetic purposes. Crushed cucumber fruits, as an external remedy, are used for inflammatory skin processes, rashes and tumors.

EdelveyS

what vitamin is in cucumbers????

4ero

Cucumber has a very rich chemical composition:

— water — 96.8%,
— sugar — 1.3 3.0%,
– nitrogen compounds – 0.8%,
— fiber — 0.5 0.7%,
– organic acids – 0.1%,
- minerals - potassium, calcium, magnesium, phosphorus, sodium, iron, etc.
- iodine,
- vitamins C, A, PP, group B,
- cellulose.

I also found this information http://alifar.ru/ogurcy

Chemical composition:
Calories: 15.4kcal, Water: 95.0g; Proteins: 0.8g; Fats: 0.1g; Carbohydrates: 3.0g; Mono- and disaccharides: 2.5g; Starch: 0.1g; Dietary fiber: 0.7g; Organic acids: 0.1g;
Ash: 0.5g; Vitamin A: 0.06 mg; Vitamin B1: 0.03 mg; Vitamin B2: 0.04 mg; Vitamin B3: 0.3 mg;
Vitamin B6: 0.04 mg; Vitamin B9: 4.0 µg; Vitamin C: 10.0 mg; Vitamin E: 0.1 mg; Vitamin H:0.9mcg; Vitamin PP: 0.2mg; Iron: 0.9 mg; Potassium: 141.0 mg; Calcium: 23.0 mg; Magnesium: 14.0 mg
Sodium: 8.0 mg; Phosphorus: 42.0 mg; Chlorine: 25.0 mg; Aluminum: 425.0µg; Iodine: 3.0mcg; Cobalt: 1.0µg; Manganese: 180.0 µg; Copper: 100.0µg; Molybdenum: 1.0µg; Fluoride: 17.0 µg; Chromium: 6.0µg;
Zinc: 215.0 mcg.

luck success

cucumber - I

4WcuMph25ejK

There lies the power of the Earth!

Alexander Rybakov

Everyone knows: cucumbers are good for losing weight. This is kind of like an axiom in geometry: everyone knows everything about cucumbers, they can be added to the diet of almost any diet, they are extremely low in calories, they can be consumed in almost unlimited quantities.
And there’s nothing you can do about it, you can see from the table below: a kilogram of cucumbers is only 135 kcal and 950 g of water!
Since ancient times, cucumbers have been used as an excellent cosmetic product. What woman hasn't walked around with a cucumber mask on her face? Fashionistas who pamper themselves with expensive imported cosmetics should remember: many cosmetic masks also contain cucumber. And these masks are considered one of the most effective. Cucumber moisturizes, rejuvenates the skin, promotes exfoliation of keratinized epidermis, is an excellent nourishing agent for the skin, making it soft and tender. If you have cellulite, you should definitely rub cucumber pulp into the skin, it greatly helps reduce it (cellulite).
What vitamins are contained in cucumbers?
Content of microelements in cucumbersNutritional value
calorie content 13.5 kcal
water98.5 g
proteins0.8 g
fats0.1 g
carbohydrates2.5 g
Vitamins
A0.06 mg
B10.03 mg
B20.04 mg
B30.3 mg
B60.04 mg
B94.0 mcg
C10.0 mg
E0.1 mg
H0.9 mcg
PP0.2 mg
Microelements
iron0.6 mg
potassium141.0 mg
calcium23.0 mg
magnesium14.0 mg
sodium8.0 mg
phosphorus42.0 mg
chlorine25.0 mg
aluminum425.0 mcg
iodine3.0 mcg
cobalt1.0 µg
manganese180.0 mcg
copper100.0 mcg
molybdenum16.0 mcg
fluoride17.0 mcg
chromium6.0 mcg
zinc215.0 mcg
Other
mono- and disaccharides2.4 g
starch0.1 g
dietary fiber1.0 g
organic acids/td>0.1 g
ash0.5 g
Medicinal properties of cucumbers. Treatment with cucumbers
The beneficial properties of cucumbers have been known since time immemorial; Hippocrates spoke about it. Cucumbers, which, according to legend, originated in Ancient India, quickly spread throughout the Ancient World. The Egyptians, who could not be denied knowledge and intelligence, drank cucumber juice with rose water to improve their health. Cucumber juice itself was used as an excellent antipyretic not only for fever, but also for burns.

elena shalbanova

Its fruits contain 95-98% water and a negligible amount of proteins, fats and carbohydrates. The remaining 3% includes carotene, vitamins PP, C and B, as well as macro- and microelements. Cucumber also contains a lot of potassium.

Diseases of cucumbers await summer residents at every turn. Don’t relax, because caring for cucumbers is not limited to just planting and growing them. In order for the cucumber harvest to be good, you will have to work hard, spending a lot of your time and physical effort on providing proper care, preventing possible diseases, and fighting diseases and pests.

Powdery mildew

What are the signs by which the disease can be identified?

Powdery mildew is considered to be one of the most common diseases that affects various crops, including cucumbers. The disease “hits” the leaves of the plant. Stems and petioles are not so often susceptible to infection, and cucumber fruits are very rare. If a small white spot is visible at the top of the cucumber, this is powdery mildew.

The spot increases in size, first covering the entire leaf, and then the entire plant. Gradually, the disease negatively affects the entire plant. You can see how the common bush “suffers” when brown lashes fall from it. Powdery mildew slowly kills the plant. If it grows in an infected form, this will lead to a decrease in the quality of the fruit, and much fewer cucumbers will grow. Why does the disease appear?

Causes of powdery mildew

  • increased degree of humidity;
  • planting cucumbers without proper care;
  • the presence of weeds in the beds;
  • systematic changes in temperature indicators;
  • when watered with cold water;
  • winds, drafts;
  • if cucumbers are planted in the same place every year.

The disease remains in the soil, on plantains, weeds and on infected plants that have been left to overwinter in the garden bed.


The development of powdery mildew in cucumber is also facilitated by sudden changes in temperature, high air humidity and dew.

How to deal with powdery mildew on cucumbers

Over the years, a large number of various methods have been developed to eliminate this disease.
It is necessary to plant only strong and resistant varieties of cucumber, as well as its hybrids. If the owner of the site sees the first signs of the disease, the infected parts of the plant should be torn off and disinfected, or burned.

In the case when the disease progresses, the cucumber bush should be treated with ground sulfur (take 30 g per 10 square meters of planting).

You can make a colloidal sulfur solution: 30 grams of 0.3% sulfur per 1 bucket of water.

Actionable measure: spray the plants with mullein.

In order to prevent the plant from getting sick next year, it is imperative to remove all plant remains. The beds must be dug deep.

Symptoms of appearance

On the reverse side of the sheet a gray coating with a lilac tint is visible.
And on the front part of the leaf light green spots with a yellowish tint and an oily consistency appear. Their shape can be round or triangular.

Over time, the spots increase in size and spread to the surface of all cucumber leaves.
Infected leaves take on a brownish-burgundy hue. They will become brittle. The leaves eventually crumble and the stems become bare.

A disease such as downy mildew differs from simple mildew in shade and in the nature of the spots that form. When it is simple mealiness, it is as if someone had sprinkled flour on the leaves. The white spots are small in size. If there is false powderiness, the cucumber leaves seem to be scorched by the sun's rays from dew drops. Both the first disease and the second are harmful to cucumbers. Without treatment they will die.

Causes of the spread of downy mildew

The occurrence of this disease may be due to the fact that a certain type of fungi living in the soil begins to actively multiply. They live in soil for about 6 years.
Factors that have a beneficial effect on fungal growth:

  • Too much air humidity;
  • Rainy season;
  • Fogs;
  • Dew;
  • Wrong location for planting cucumbers (shady side);
  • There is no natural air circulation.

False powdery mildew develops well on cucumbers when the temperature very often drops sharply and rises. This can happen both during the day and at night. The air is completely saturated with water vapor with a difference of more than 10 degrees. Then, at 100% humidity, dew appears on the leaves. It is important, when night falls, to cover the cucumbers or provide them with heating.


Downy mildew of cucumbers or downy mildew is one of the widespread diseases of this vegetable. This is exactly the disease that can lead to the death of the plant.

Ways to fight

To prevent false mealybug from “occupying” cucumbers, preventive measures must be taken. This is necessary to obtain a healthy and intact harvest. Folk remedies to combat this disease are suitable for eliminating the first symptoms and extensive lesions when the ovary has already formed. Chemicals are used only before the fruits ripen.

Preventive measures to prevent this disease

It is much easier to prevent the appearance of a disease than to then waste time and energy trying to save cucumbers, or even lose the crop altogether. To prevent this from happening, the following measures should be taken:

  1. Watering should only be done in the morning. The water should be warm. This is necessary so that by the evening the humidity level decreases.
  2. It is necessary to maintain the temperature at the same level, without sudden jumps. During the daytime, the suitable temperature is +25 degrees, at night - +18- +21.
  3. It is necessary to change the location of planting cucumbers every season.
  4. The greenhouse must be ventilated as often as possible.

A flawless lawn at your dacha all summer long!

Nadezhda Nikolaevna, 49 years old. I have been planting grass near my house for many years. Therefore, we even have experience in this area. But my lawn has never looked as gorgeous as after using Aquagrazz! Like heaven and earth. The lawn is lush and dark green even in the heat. Requires minimal watering.

One of the preventive measures to combat this fungus is the selection of those varieties that are resistant to downy mildew. It is worth choosing cucumber hybrids that are resistant to it:

  • Delpina F1;
  • Vicenta F1;
  • Anyuta F1.

If you still give preference to varietal plants, then after collecting the seeds they need to be soaked for disinfection in a solution of potassium permanganate (dark color).

Use of special means

The use of biochemical preparations and chemicals is recommended even during the period when seeds are being prepared for sowing. This is easier than later taking measures to destroy downy mildew and losing the harvest. The following drugs have proven effective: Fitosporin-M, Adirin-B and Gamair;

For preventive purposes, to prevent downy mildew from appearing, you need to make a fungicide solution. Then place cucumber seeds there for 1.5 - 2 hours. After this, the seeds are taken out and washed under water. Dry. They are ready to be sown in open soil or as seedlings. 1 kg of seeds is consumed per one and a half liters of liquid.

During the period when the stem is growing intensively, to prevent the appearance of downy mildew, it is advisable to spray the bushes with an effective preparation at certain intervals. For example, one of these:

  • Gamair. Every 14 days. 10 liters are consumed per are.
  • Vitaplan. In 21 days. Consumes 3 liters. in Ar.
  • Profit Gold. In 7 days (or 14). Consumption is 5 liters per hundred square meters.
  • Fitosporin-M. In 10-14 days. 10 liters are consumed per are.
  • Proton Extra. After 10 days. Consumption 10 liters per hundred square meters.

Important!”]After medications have been used to prevent the appearance of false powdery mildew on cucumbers, their condition may worsen sharply. To keep them in a viable state, it is worth conducting tests by selecting 2-3 bushes. If they do not feel ill within 24 hours, you can spray this drug over the entire area.

When cucumbers do not produce a harvest every year, and simple or downy mildew is to blame, then it makes sense to use chemicals both during the ovary period and when the plant bears fruit. The harvest will not be possible for 7 days (at least), since the cucumbers, after processing, will be unsuitable for food. But for the rest of the time, you can pick and eat delicious cucumbers.

Traditional methods of treating downy mildew

For hundreds of years, people have come up with all sorts of ways to combat downy mildew. This knowledge was passed on from generation to generation. Here are some recipes:

  • Garlic broth. Place 75 grams of finely chopped garlic in 1 bucket of water. You can also use arrows. The decoction, which has cooled down, is sprayed onto the bushes.
  • A solution of milk and iodine. Water – 9 l, milk (0% fat) – 1 l. Add 10 drops of iodine (5% alcohol solution). Spray the cucumbers.
  • Tea made from ash. Brew 0.5 liters of boiling water in 3 liters. ash. The tea, which has cooled, is brought to 10 liters of volume.

Any time of day and any frequency is suitable for spraying against this disease. If the plant is sick, it should be sprayed with decoctions more often. To achieve maximum effect, the weather should be as calm as possible. Plants are also sprayed for prevention purposes. This procedure will not cause harm.

Signs of white rot on cucumbers

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In areas that have been infected, a coating of lush white flakes appears. This is the mycelium of the fungus, which over time begins to increase in size. The tissues of the infected areas of the stem become soft and acquire a watery structure. The process of delivering water and the nutritional components it contains from the soil is disrupted. As a result, the plant withers and dies.

Over time, the mycelium in some places becomes dense and dark. This indicates that the sclerotial stage of the fungus has begun. When cucumber fruits come into contact with an infected area of ​​the fungus, they become infected very quickly.


White rot of cucumber occurs almost everywhere where cucumbers are grown. Gardeners especially often encounter it indoors.

How to deal with white rot

The key agrotechnical methods for combating white rot of cucumber are constantly changing planting sites. It is also important to burn all remaining plant particles after harvesting. To achieve 100% effect, it is recommended to remove the various remaining parts of the plants simultaneously with the top layer of soil (2 or 3 cm). As soon as it becomes clear that the young stems have begun to rot, they must be removed immediately. It is also important to remove the soil layer along with them.

For cucumbers in greenhouses!”] It is important to maintain optimal moisture and thermal conditions in greenhouses. To prevent humidity from being too high in greenhouses, regular ventilation will help avoid this.

Cucumbers love evening watering and warm water.
If white rot has attacked the cucumber tissue, chalk, ash, and crushed coal are used for effective sprinkling. Many gardeners do this: they smear the infected areas with a certain pink composition. To prepare it you need to mix potassium permanganate, chalk and water.

If it is clear that the areas are severely affected, they are cut out along with the healthy tissue that is nearby. Greenhouses and soil must be thoroughly disinfected at intervals.
The use of foliar feeding of cucumbers can serve well. To complete them, you need to:

Recipe for foliar feeding against white rot"] dilute 10 g of urea and 2 g of copper sulfate, 1 g of zinc sulfate in a 10 liter bucket of water.

Watering young cucumbers with a 0.1% Planriza solution will be very useful during the growing season. It won’t hurt to use the Trichodermin product, and also coat the cucumber stems with an aqueous solution of Rovral and Sumilex.

Symptoms of the disease

The fact that the plant is sick is indicated by the brown color of the root collar and roots of the cucumber. The lower leaves begin to turn yellow, and all other leaves wither on summer days when there is a lot of sun. Flowers on infected plants begin to take on a sickly appearance and gradually begin to dry out. The Zelentsy will not continue their development.

By this time, the disease affects almost the entire root system. The roots acquire a dark brown tint. Their structure becomes loose. The outer layer of the stems dies.

Diseased cucumbers quickly lose their healthy appearance and dry out. There is another symptom that rot destroys cucumbers with great force. This means that the stem at the bottom is loosened. It is easily separated from diseased brown-burgundy roots.

If the soil is acidic in the region of pH 5-6, most pathogens quickly develop their activity. They develop well at temperatures of +5-+45 degrees. Each type of virus prefers its own temperature to be active. The pythium virus loves temperatures from 12 to 24 degrees. The late blight virus requires a temperature of more than 7 degrees so that it exhibits maximum activity and forms harmful spores.

The level of soil moisture is a factor that influences the level of development of almost all diseases. When a summer resident waters cucumbers frequently and intensively, in greenhouse conditions, soil moisture increases greatly, and the amount of oxygen needed by the roots for their normal life decreases. This is the reason that the root system becomes weak and vulnerable when the plant is attacked by phytopathogens.


When the disease “root rot” occurs in cucumbers in greenhouses, the stem is crushed

Methods for eliminating root rot

The fact that the leaves have become limp (as a result of the roots rotting), the separation of the stem near the base, and the gradual death of the root system are manifestations of symptoms of a serious disease. Often, the reason for the lack of resistance to this pathogen is that the plants were planted in the soil in violation of certain rules.

How to prevent these troubles:

  1. Follow the principle of crop rotation (do not plant cucumbers in the same place for the next season).
  2. When the process of planting cucumber seedlings is carried out, they are not buried to great depths. 1 cm depth is enough.
  3. The height from the leaves of the seedlings to the soil should be at least 3 cm.
  4. Watering cucumbers is carried out only with warm water. You should try not to touch the plant itself.
  5. When fertilizing and mulching occurs, you must not overdo it with humus. When the stem comes into contact with the soil, it needs oxygen; therefore, its free access must be ensured.
  6. You should constantly monitor the soil moisture level so that it does not exceed 85%. The soil temperature should be between +20 and +26 degrees.
  7. Salinization of the soil should not be allowed, as this factor greatly weakens the roots of the plant.
  8. It is advisable to choose fertilizers without chlorine. It is worth using organic fertilizers that have been composted for at least 6 months.
  9. As soon as the summer resident noticed that the cucumber leaves began to fade, it means that the planting was not carried out as it should be done correctly. You need to take a garden shovel and carefully remove the soil from the cucumber stems. It is important here not to touch the shallow root.

Recipe for feeding cucumbers"] The resulting cracks are treated with the following composition: half a liter of water, 1 tsp. copper sulfate, 3 tbsp. crushed wood ash. Another option: pour ash, finely crushed activated carbon or chalk (dry) into the places of delamination.

If after all the procedures the bush does not begin to recover, it should be dug up and burned. The place where the diseased plant grew must be treated by pouring a mixture of copper sulfate into the hole.

To prepare containers with a nutrient solution, humus, turf, and peat soil are used in a 1:1:1 ratio. It is advisable to use composted mixtures that have been biologically sterilized for at least 2 years. Good results are achieved by cassette technology with mineral wool plugs. This will help avoid infection of plants through the soil.

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It is worth considering installing the latest sterile mats. These methods prevent plants from being susceptible to disease. If the same soil is used constantly, this will lead to the accumulation of various pathogenic organisms in it.

If the root system of cucumbers rots, they can be saved if you use this method. It will help when the cracks on the stems are small and the lower leaves have just begun to fade.

Actions: Using a sharp knife, cut off the lower, wilted leaves. Then wait for the cut areas to dry. Remove the plant from the support and place it on the ground. After this, the places where the leaves were cut are covered with earth.

The last step: lift the plant and tie it to the support again. If such a procedure is carried out, young roots will appear on the part that was sprinkled with earth, and the plant will get a “second wind”.

Video: Why do the leaves of cucumber seedlings turn yellow?

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The cucumber ripens early and with good care can be harvested early. It pleases the gardener along with the first greens and radishes - already in the spring.

For this to be the case, you need to know both the biological characteristics of a juicy vegetable and possible problems.

The cucumber may be sick or attacked by pests.

Craftsmen have learned to resist them.

Powdery mildew

Harmful mildew can destroy cucumber plants quickly and completely.

It is easy to recognize: the leaves seem to be sprinkled with flour. For this reason the disease was given a name: “mealy”.

A white coating covers the leaf, spreading superficially. The leaves turn yellow and dry out.

The leaf petiole, fruit and stem are almost not covered with bloom.

Plaque is the growing mycelium of a pathogenic fungus; the disease is of a fungal nature.

Cucumber is severely affected in conditions favorable to the fungus. The mushroom loves moisture, shade, and coolness.

If spring and summer turn out like this, fungal diseases cause additional trouble for the gardener. And they are deprived of most of the harvest.

Powdery mildew leaves almost no cucumbers.

Preserved fruits are deformed.

Downy mildew

The disease is also called peronosporosis. The leaves become covered with small yellowish spots - the first sign of another fungal disease of cucumbers.

The spots quickly increase in size and the leaves dry out. The lower leaf plate is covered with a dark coating.

Help is needed urgently; treatment of cucumbers will require the same means as for powdery mildew and other fungal diseases.

Cladosporiosis

Diseases of cucumbers are often of fungal origin; this is facilitated by a humid atmosphere and temperature conditions.

Cladosporiosis is more of a greenhouse disease, although it also occurs on ground crops.

The entire plant is affected: stems, fruits, petioles, leaves.

The stems suffer first. They become ulcerated and the damaged areas are filled with olive plaque.

The angular spots on the leaves that appear later are also covered with an olive-colored coating.

Therefore, the disease is also called olive spot. Near the veins, the diseased tissue discolors. The leaves are drying up.

The main “blow” of cladosporiosis is on fruits. Concave spots - ulcers - with the same coating quickly increase in size on cucumbers.

The ovaries are bent, the fruits are underdeveloped.

Angular leaf spot

The disease's external manifestations resemble cladosporiosis.

It also affects all above-ground parts of the cucumber plant. Even cotyledons are affected.

The spots are yellow-brown, as with cladosporiosis (in the beginning). And angularity appears.

But diseases are caused by different pathogens, although both are fungi.

It is possible to distinguish and diagnose a plant by the condition of the lower leaf blade and by its appearance.

Angular spotting - bacteriosis - causes the formation of exudate, sticky yellow droplets from the bottom of the leaf.

These are reservoirs of infection, from here bacteriosis spreads further.

With olive spotting, the bottom of the leaf has a dark coating of fungal mycelium. This is a characteristic difference.

The nature of angular spotting is bacterial, therefore the second name is bacteriosis. The fruits become distorted, ulcerated, and rot.

It is advisable to avoid sprinkling irrigation if there is bacteriosis on the site. This type of watering helps the infection spread.

Bacterial diseases require the gardener to make efforts to protect the crop:

  • The infection may be hidden in the seeds - collect the seeds while inspecting the fruit. It must be intact.
  • Before sowing, warm up the seeds: they will withstand 60° in the oven. Place them in this “sauna” for three hours, the seeds will be disinfected from all infections.
  • A solution of potassium permanganate will cope with the scourge hidden inside the seeds in 15 minutes. Make it weak and pink. Then dry the seeds.
  • Remove dried branches and leaves in the fall. Burn this material - bacteria spend the winter there.
  • The infection also remains in the soil. Do the digging deep: let the bacteria freeze out.
  • Disinfect wooden parts of greenhouses and greenhouses with whitewash.
  • Bacteriosis, like fungus, is afraid of copper. Therefore, Bordeaux mixture, preparations with copper (Ordan, Kurzat R 44) will come in handy. Spraying at the first signs of angular spot is an effective method of suppressing the disease.

Sclerotinia

White rot of cucumbers (sclerotinia) is another fungal disease that “eats” the plant completely, even the roots.

Under cover it is a disaster. White rot can be easily recognized by the white flakes of mycelium. They cover infected stems, leaves, and reach fruits.

The fungus destroys the cucumber plant, softens it, and causes rotting.

The infection lives in the soil, and during the growth period the plants infect each other mechanically.

The fungus is also airborne.

If the disease is noticed immediately, try to save the cucumber plants.

Lubricate the stems with settled mycelium with the composition: sumilex, chalk (equal parts) - mix, diluting with water until a paste consistency is obtained.

Varieties resistant to sclerotinia: Telegraph, Urozhayny 1596. Fruitful 147 is good for greenhouses, but its resistance to white rot is less.

Root rot

Fungal spores settle after wintering, first on the roots of the cucumber.

Externally, a gardener can notice something is wrong by detecting yellowing of the lower leaves - the infection is coming from below. The scourge withers and dries out.

Having pulled out the plant, you can see: the roots are rotting, they are covered with brown spots, and have become unviable.

When the root dies, nutrition is impossible, the plant dies.

The causes of the disease are common to all fungal diseases, the distribution is similar. Soil, mechanical transfer of spores, their transfer through the air, with watering, distribution by insects.

Gray rot

The manifestation of the disease is similar to other fungal infections.

Leaves covered with brown spots, rotting stems. Fruits covered with brown wet spots.

The difference is in the color of the plaque; it is gray, which gives the name to the type of rot.

There are almost no female cucumber flowers with gray rot, but there are many male flowers. They quickly rot, spreading disease.

In addition to general antifungal measures, sore spots are dusted with ash. You can add copper sulfate to the ash - 5 g of sulfate and a glass of ash.

Ascochyta blight

A disease of all regions - for cucumber. Greenhouse conditions are a paradise for the fungus, and the cucumber begins to develop in the spring - under cover.

Even in the south you cannot get an early harvest without seedlings. And it is grown in greenhouses. Or they sow cucumber in greenhouses.

Another option: sow under film, under cover with it on arches.

Shelters from the cold save, but diseases of cucumbers are more annoying. In summer, plants suffer less if the season is dry and hot.

Ascochyta blight is also rot. It begins its destructive work from the stem, appearing in spots.

The color of the spots changes from green to brown, then becomes white. The stem is cracking.

Later, the leaves become stained and the leaf tissues dry out. The fruits rot and their flesh turns brown.

Ascochyta blight is selective: it settles on weakened plants. The fungus overwinters in seeds, plant debris, and soil.

Anthracnose

Forms stem cankers that are elongated in length. The stems break.

Leaf infections are similar to other fungal infections: oval yellow (sometimes brown) spots that are prone to cracking and peeling.

It is easier to distinguish anthracnose by the damage to the ovaries: many small, fast-growing pinkish spots that subsequently merge.

The fruits spoil and many plants die. The biology of the fungus is similar to ascochyta blight.

Fusarium wilt

If the leaves or tops of the cucumber vines, the growing points, droop or wither, take a closer look at the surface of the stem emerging from the soil.

With fusarium wilt, rot forms there.

When a cucumber blooms, the root portion of the stem and roots become brown, become covered with cracks, and rot.

The internal vessels of the stem are affected; their brown color is visible when broken or cut.

At high humidity, the root part becomes covered with a pink coating of fungus. The disease is transmitted from the soil or through seeds.

White mosaic

Diseases of cucumbers that cause mosaic leaf color are viral in nature.

Wrinkling and mosaic spotting of the leaf appears when the plant is one month old.

It begins to bear fruit, the leaf is covered with white stars (sometimes yellow).

The virus spreads quickly, the fruits become covered with white stripes.

It is important to destroy aphids: they carry viral diseases of cucumber. White mosaic is also transmitted through seeds.

Green speckled mosaic

Green cucumber mosaic has several names. She is both speckled and English.

The disease is viral, mainly greenhouse. The first weeks (up to a month) may not manifest itself.

With warming, it quickly forms external signs. The leaves become deformed, wrinkled, and the veins lighten.

The fruits are bitter, short, speckled. They are deformed and mosaic. The spots become necrotic.

If detected in time, the virus can be stopped by treatment with a milk-iodine solution.

Take a liter of milk per bucket of water and 50 g of iodine. Periodic spraying restrains the disease and preserves the harvest almost completely.

The virus is afraid of iodine, milk softens the effect on the leaves and increases adhesion.

Cucumber leaf burn

Old leaves darken, becoming covered with a grayish coating. At first these are small spots, their shape is varied.

As the spots grow, they merge and their tissues die. A brown border remains in the place of the fallen tissues.

The young leaf is affected later and less frequently.

Weakened, damaged plants are favored by the fungus first.

The burn spreads through infected seeds and plant debris left over winter.

Macrosporiasis (brown spot)

The fungus forms white spots with a light halo on the leaves.

When the spots become larger and merge, the leaves die. A dark coating of conidia is visible on them.

In damp, cool summers, half the harvest is lost. The disease is harmful; work is underway to select varieties that are less susceptible to macrosporiosis.

Prevention of fungal diseases

Most cucumber diseases are fungal. The fight against fungi of different types is carried out according to a proven scheme.

Differences (if any) are given in the characteristics of the disease.

It is important to carry out prevention. Do not give the fungus comfortable conditions:

  • Sow cucumbers so that they do not shade each other. It is better to raise the lashes on supports, on a trellis. Then the root moisture will not evaporate and over-moisten the air around the leaf.
  • When growing in greenhouses, the temperature must be maintained above 18°. The fungus that causes the disease does not like this. Its development stops.
  • Soil overfed with nitrogen is good for fungal diseases. Not only mineral nitrogen, organic nitrogen is also attractive to them. Manure is rich in nitrogen. Balance is important - everything in moderation. Cucumber grows better on manure. But the danger of powdery mildew is higher.
  • A preventive measure is compliance with crop rotation. Fungal spores wait patiently in the soil for their next host - up to three years. In the fourth year you can sow in the same place. Dacha plots are small, and it is not always possible to comply with this requirement. It is even more difficult in greenhouse conditions to avoid re-infection. An alternative to crop rotation is soil disinfection. In the greenhouse, the surface layer is poured with boiling water. You can use a strong (bright pink) solution of potassium permanganate. The fungus dies, the beneficial microflora also suffers, but it will recover and rise from the lower soil layers. The fungus does not penetrate deeply.

If the fact is already on the sheet: you noticed a plaque, made a diagnosis - fight.

Plants can be defended. A summer resident can treat cucumbers.

Try to make do with safe means at hand.

Treatment of cucumbers: traditional methods

Fermented milk spraying. Curdled milk, homemade kefir, fermented baked milk are an environment for beneficial fermented milk bacteria.

Dilute them with water in an arbitrary proportion. Treat the cucumber plot with the solution.

The mushroom will not survive; the beneficial flora will destroy it.

In case of severe damage or for prevention, the treatment is repeated once a week. Homemade serum also helps.

Herbal fermentations. Weeds can help heal plants and at the same time feed them.

To prepare fermented infusions, allocate a container location (from a pan to a barrel, if desired) on the site.

After weeding the grass, put it in a barrel and add water. Gradually the barrel fills (half or two-thirds of the volume is enough).

In warm weather the contents ferment. The smell is unpleasant, it is better to cover the container.

If necessary, take an infusion, treat the cultures against the fungus, straining the resulting liquid.

Fungal diseases of cucumbers will recede.

Soap and soda. The components are handy and effective. The fungus is afraid of them.

For a bucket of water: baking soda - two tablespoons, laundry soap - 50 g.

Spray weekly, repeat after rains.

Infusion of manure. Overfeeding cucumbers with manure helps the development of the fungus.

But the same manure used in spraying can cure cucumber against fungal diseases.

Pour one part of manure into a suitable container with two parts of water.

After three days of infusion, use the strained liquid for processing.

First dilute with water: one part of the infusion and ten of water.

Pollination with sulfur. Ground sulfur, or feed sulfur, is poured into a sieve and the cucumber leaves are pollinated.

Choose a sunny, dry, warm day.

Ash. Dusting leaves with ash stops the development of fungus.

Potassium permanganate. Dissolve a few grains of potassium permanganate in a liter of water.

The result will be a solution of a rich crimson color. From it take the amount needed to color the main solution required for processing in a pale pink color.

Spray the cucumbers with the working solution.

Garlic. Peel and chop the two middle heads. Fill with water in a liter jar.

Every other day, dilute with a bucket of water. The solution is ready.

Zelenka. You can add treatment of the cucumber plot with brilliant green.

It is convenient to prepare the solution by measuring the brilliant green with a 5 ml syringe.

Having filled the syringe, release the contents into a bucket of water. The solution is ready.

Chemicals

  • Fungal diseases are “treated” with preparations containing copper. Bordeaux mixture, copper sulfate, ordan (copper oxychloride combined with the chemical urea derivative cymoxanil) are suitable.
  • The modern drug Ridomil is absorbed into the plant tissue and destroys the fungus from the inside. At the same time it acts externally and adheres well. The leaf holds it for two weeks.
  • Phytoflavin. The drug is a combination drug that acts on bacterial diseases in addition to fungal ones. The action is complex, double: contact (it affects the pathogen by direct contact with it) and systemic (it is absorbed into the plant tissue and “works” with the infection there). Recommended by experts, tested and approved by summer residents. It has an additional stimulating effect on the growth of cucumber (the whole plant), and is environmentally friendly. Exposure period after processing until consumption is two days. This is a godsend for a cucumber; it ripens quickly, and the gardener will collect ungrown fruits. The use of other drugs will not provide such an advantageous opportunity.

Irregular shape of cucumbers

It’s nice when the harvest looks “like a cucumber.” But sometimes a gardener sees: the cucumber has let us down.

Fruits can take on the most bizarre shapes. Such a vegetable cannot be sold or pickled: it looks ugly.

Why does this happen? These are non-infectious deviations.

Curved cucumbers. The hooked shape of the fruit indicates that agricultural technology has been violated.

If cucumbers are always sown in their “favorite” place, without crop rotation, they stop loving this place.

There is a one-way removal of nutrients, and infections of this crop accumulate in the soil.

The plant suffers - it signals defects in the fruit. Constrictions form, and a “cucumber with a belt” may form.

The predecessor should not be of the same family - pumpkin. Otherwise, diseases are common, and so is the need for nutrition.

The soil becomes depleted and the cucumber will not have enough of the necessary elements.

Parthenocarpic varieties are self-pollinators. They don’t need bees or bee-pollinated neighbors.

The summer resident is not always aware: such a neighborhood is harmful to parthenocarpics. Foreign pollen gets on them, the variety loses its purity, and the fruits may become deformed.

Irregular watering can also affect the shape of the fruit.

Cucumbers love constant temperature conditions. When it fluctuates, the growth of the fruit is also spasmodic. This unevenness distorts the shape of the fruit.

Thickening of plantings gives a similar result.

Pear-shaped fruits. Pollination problems. Either the bees worked little (on bee-pollinated plants), or the bees worked on parthenocarpic varieties.

Place regular varieties next to honey plants that are attractive to bees.

Try to protect parthenocarpic ones: even a gauze cover will help. It is better to have a special non-woven material.

Spicy fruit and mild taste. This happens from:

  • Overfeeding with nitrogen (mineral or as part of manure, compost);
  • Lack of light - dense plantings;
  • Interruptions in watering;
  • From heat, dry air.

Double cucumbers. Merged cucumbers are a consequence of extreme situations experienced in “cucumber childhood.”

Heat, cold, drought, excess moisture, temperature changes are stress for plants.

This disrupts the normal formation of fruits; nearby ovaries can grow together.

"Empty" cucumbers. Voids occur when:

  • No nutritional balance. An excess of nitrogen against the background of a lack of other macro- and microelements. The habit of planting cucumbers “on manure” is fraught with empty fruits. Compost is preferable.
  • There is a problem with regular watering. Irregular is the cause of voids.
  • Viral diseases also provoke the formation of hollow fruits.

– a precocious, early vegetable. But not easy. For one and a half to two months of the cucumber growing season, the gardener will have to look closely at its condition.

Take measures in a timely manner, be an “ambulance” for the plant. Feed on time, don’t be late - give water, notice something is wrong at the first signs.

But the worries will pay off: the cucumber is a grateful plant. He will please the good owner with a healthy harvest.

See you soon, dear readers!

Why do cucumber leaves turn yellow? What to do? Gardeners turn to search engines with such questions when the problem is already clearly visible. But wait until you start panicking. After all, everything is often fixable, and the cucumbers can still be saved.

The only difficulty is an accurate diagnosis of why the leaves turn yellow. Sometimes it can be difficult to determine the real cause. Well, you’ll have to use the method of elimination and turn your head on periodically. Then everything will definitely work out.

Below we will look at the most common options for changing pigmentation and tell you what to do in such a situation.

Improper watering

Since childhood, many people know that cucumbers love water. So they pour until they are stupefied and no matter how much you don’t mind. But such a basic procedure as watering must be carried out according to all the rules.

This plant is heat-loving. In the regions where cucumbers originate, cold rains are rare. Mostly warm water pours from the sky. This means that our cucumbers also need to be given warm water. Otherwise, some will lower the pump into the well and let’s pump ice streams into the beds. Try standing under such a shower yourself. I don't think I'll like it.

So the cucumbers turn off the small feeding roots so as not to catch a cold. And leaves and fruits require water. It turns out that even if they are in an icy slurry of soil and water, the plants dry out. The leaves will turn yellow quickly with this care.

Another situation. The water for irrigation is warm, but it is not enough. Instead of drinking quality water 3 times a week, the owners spray a little from a watering can every day. The top layer of soil is always wet. And at a depth of 8-12 cm, where the bulk of the roots are located, it is dry. It turns out the cucumbers were dried again.

Or the other extreme. Water the cucumbers with warm water, often and a lot. Well, it would seem, what else is needed? Air access to the roots is necessary. They cannot work constantly for wear and tear; they also need to be ventilated periodically. What if your “legs” float in a warm swamp?

All sorts of sores of the root system begin, insidious rots attack. The roots gradually die off. The leaves turn yellow, the owners think that the plants do not have enough water, and they pour even more. The problem is getting worse.

What to do? To begin with, water correctly. No one will tell you the exact amount of water per plant or frequency. And don’t listen to all these “25 liters of water per bush with each watering.” How can advisors know what the weather or climate is like in your area? They also don’t know what type of soil and under what conditions your cucumbers grow.

The best reference point is your garden bed. They came, pulled the tops apart, and looked. If it’s not clear, then you can pick up some earthen soil. Humid? Stop watering! Dry? So it's time to give the cucumbers a drink. That's all science is.

Sunburn

Continuing the topic of water, let's talk about a great misconception. Absolutely all sources strictly prohibit watering cucumbers in the heat from above. Allegedly, sprinkling provokes sunburn and massive yellowing of leaves.

Sorry, but the yellowing of the leaves is caused by your negligence and unwillingness to work with your brains. Look at your cucumbers at 14. What does it look like? That's right, on sagging rags. This sun evaporates the remaining moisture from them, and then dries them to the state of straw. Hence the burn.

What to do? Save! Urgently help cucumber plantings survive the sun's abuse! Directly from above the leaves, sprinkling should be used to refresh the plantings. This reduces the temperature of the leaf, saturates it with liquid and increases the humidity of the air around it.

And don’t talk about drop lenses. If the blades are saturated with water and their temperature is reduced, then your scary lenses will need a lot of force to damage the surface of the sheet. By the way, after the rain the sun often shines too. How many plants blazing from lenses have you seen in your life?

Pests

These little enemies suck out all the nutritious juices from the leaves of cucumbers, gnaw at the root system, and eat the stems. As a result, the plant becomes weak, lack of nutrition appears, and the leaves turn yellow.

Additional feeding will not help. First you need to identify the insidious guests, then get rid of them, and only after all help the cucumbers recover.

What to do? Each type of pest requires its own method of control. No doubt, you can hit them heartily with a decent dose of insecticide. But how do you eat cucumbers later? After all, they mature quickly and will not have time to get rid of the poison.

There are 3 solutions, both are harmless to people and animals:

  1. Use all kinds of decoctions and infusions of strong-smelling natural ingredients. These are onion peels, tansy, mint, valerian, marigolds, garlic peels. You just need to periodically spray the affected cucumber leaves with diluted liquid. It is advisable to thoroughly wet the underside of the leaves. This is where the largest concentration of uninvited guests is observed.
  2. Traps. Possibly with poisonous bait. The pests will eat enough and happily throw back their paws, but the cucumbers will definitely not eat. If you don’t want to use poison, then you just collect insects in traps and give them to your neighbors or your chickens. Take it out of the area and destroy it. You bury it very deep into the ground. There are plenty of ways.
  3. New on the insecticide market. With bio prefix. Can be used to get rid of all types of harmful insects. It is a conglomerate of fungal spores and a predatory nematode. The little predator attacks pests and infects them with fungus. This, in turn, quickly grows throughout the internal organs of the insect and kills it. Everything takes from 4 hours to a day.

The only disadvantage of option 3 is strict adherence to the instructions. The conditions and storage time of the drug are clearly stated there, as well as the temperature range in which the bioinsecticide works most effectively.

Cold

The banal reason is temperature fluctuations during the day. For example, during the day it is scorching hot, but at night it is already freezing. This usually happens in August. Cucumber roots stop functioning normally in cooled soil. And the overgrown tops and filling fruits require nutrition in the usual dose. What remains for the plant? That's right, take a supply of nutrients from the leaves. Burdocks begin to turn yellow, then dry out and die.

Increased feeding will not bring the desired result. No matter how much nutrition is added to the soil, the cucumber is not able to absorb it.

What to do? Apply foliar fertilizing, preferably with nitrogen, and grow new roots. This is done very simply. First, almost all the lashes are buried up to a length of 30 cm. The whole thing must be sprinkled with moist, loose soil. It is recommended to water the digging area with a solution of a root formation stimulator for the first time. This will allow the cucumber to quickly grow new roots, which will help the bush absorb the proper amount of nutrition.

And the leaves will need to be fertilized 2 times, with an interval of 5-7 days. To do this, take a matchbox of regular urea (without top) or 2 tbsp for 10 liters of clean water. l. pharmaceutical solution of ammonia. Mix the resulting liquid thoroughly and spray the cucumber plantings heartily.

Lack of nutrition

By the way, about fertilizers. Their lack can also cause yellowing of cucumber leaves. Some gardeners are categorically against the use of chemicals in their garden plots. Of course, biological liquid green fertilizer is a good thing. The cucumbers take it with a bang. But for normal growth and development, the menu must be complete.

Agree, it’s hard to constantly eat only nitrogen. Other microelements are also needed. For example, potassium, manganese, iron, boron, phosphorus, molybdenum, zinc. In small quantities, but still a cucumber cannot exist normally without them. And a person will not be able to provide the required amount of nutrition with natural supplements. And on nitrogen alone from greens, the plants will be loose, watery and the fruits will grow tasteless. The leaves will be lush and green at first, but not for long. Then they quickly lose their attractiveness and turn yellow.

What to do? Feed. Let's go to the store. We choose any complex mineral fertilizer. Read carefully the content of microelements. We choose something that has less nitrogen and more other substances. We buy it and take it home. Once again, carefully read the instructions for use, especially the manufacturer’s recommendations. We strictly follow all requirements.

We deliberately do not provide here the dosage and frequency of use of mineral fertilizers. Because each complex of microelements has its own, and it is impossible to guarantee anything remotely. But believe me, your cucumbers will respond to such care with gratitude, a large harvest and beautiful green leaves.

Diseases

This is the most common cause of yellowing cucumber leaves. None of the above species causes such harm as spores of pathogenic fungi and pathogenic bacteria. They lie in wait for your plants at every step and stage of development.

It all starts with infected planting material and spoiled soil. Then the insect pests carry various viruses on their legs. Cool, wet weather encourages fungal growth. In a greenhouse or greenhouse, bacteria from last year may remain on the supports and walls. It would take a long time to list all the dangers. A book is not enough to describe the method of combating each disease.

Before sowing seeds in the ground or for seedlings, they must be disinfected. Nothing better than a strong, hot solution of potassium permanganate has yet been invented. Planting soil is cleaned of bacteria by deep freezing or roasting in the oven.

In a greenhouse (greenhouse), at least the top layer of soil should be replaced with a new one every year. If it is impossible to do this, you should definitely spill the soil with potassium permanganate or a solution of phytosporin. Arches, frames, supports, wall and ceiling materials must be treated with a fungicide solution or at least fumigated with a sulfur smoke bomb. The tobacco shop does a good job too.

The best protection against diseases and fungal rot is prevention:

  1. Strict adherence to crop rotation. Many people neglect this, but in vain. Bacteria tend to accumulate in soil. And constant, year after year, planting melons in one place is an indirect cause of yellowing of the leaves.
  2. Periodically inspect cucumbers for suspicious spots or streaks. Otherwise, most gardeners begin to beat the drums only when the cucumbers are signaled by the massive yellowness of the burdocks.
  3. Regular preventive spraying of bushes with any fungicide of biological origin. Modern industry offers a great variety of them. We won’t name it here to avoid advertising, but if you want, you can find both the name and instructions.
By the way, the mechanism of action of these biological products is very simple. Each of them is a concentration of beneficial microorganisms and fungal spores. When sprayed, a protective film of these little helpers is formed on the surface of the plant. The film acts for some time as a protective barrier against viruses, pathogenic fungi and pathogenic bacteria. It is updated periodically.

Biofungicides are absolutely harmless to people, animals and insects. You don't even need gloves to use them. And the benefits are invaluable.

If you still missed it and the disease has already begun its victorious march, then quickly get rid of the sick cucumber or put it in quarantine. It is quite possible that the remaining bushes have not yet become infected. But it's better not to take risks.

The affected plant must be pulled out by the roots, taken outside the site and burned. The soil underneath should be immediately disinfected. This measure will definitely allow you to sleep peacefully.

After reading our article, you will no longer worry about the question of why cucumber leaves turn yellow. What to do? - you know too. Take a closer look at your plants and good harvests to you.

Video: what to do to prevent cucumber leaves from turning yellow

Good days to all readers!

Today is an article about cucumber diseases and their treatment with photos and descriptions. To extend the fruiting period of cucumbers, you need to know everything about their diseases, be able to recognize them and take action in time. Photographs and descriptions of diseases will help to correctly identify them and take measures for treatment with folk remedies. So as not to spoil the harvest with chemicals.

Fungal, bacterial and viral infections are common among cucumbers grown in open ground and greenhouses. As a rule, plants are affected by these diseases due to improper care. Today we will talk about

Diseases of cucumbers in greenhouses and open ground. Photos of leaves and treatment methods

Causes of diseases

  1. One of the most important causes of illness is non-compliance with temperature conditions. Due to temperature fluctuations, the disease develops faster. A favorable environment for infection is conditions of high humidity.
  2. It is possible that cucumbers will get sick if the principles of crop rotation are violated. Cucumbers are returned to their original planting location no earlier than after 4 years.
  3. Other reasons for the development of diseases include poor lighting, constant drafts, and lack of fertilizing.
  4. In order for cucumbers to grow and develop well, it is necessary to promptly identify diseased plants and remove their affected parts.
  5. You should also not forget about cleaning the area. The garden beds must be clean and tidy.
  6. Often, cucumbers get sick due to improper watering with cold water.

Some diseases more often affect plants in greenhouses, while others in open ground conditions. One of the most common fungal diseases of cucumbers is

Powdery mildew

Signs:

If a plant is sick, a white or grayish coating appears on its leaves and stems, similar to spilled flour. Over time, small powdery spots do not go away, but spread throughout the entire leaf. This leads to yellowing and drying of the leaves and the cessation of fruiting.

Characteristic whitish coating on the leaves

Causes:

Powdery mildew pathogens spread very quickly at low air temperatures, when it is cloudy and cool outside. When the air temperature rises to +25°C, powdery mildew spores die.

In most cases, cucumbers get sick because they lack moisture and are weakened by irregular watering. This disease also appears if you overfeed them with nitrogen fertilizers.

Prevention:

To prevent the disease you need:

  • water the cucumbers with warm water
  • Maintain cleanliness in the greenhouse and beds - timely weeding, loosening, removing weeds and plant debris during growth and after fruiting. Do not leave cucumber vines in the beds until spring.
  • raise the temperature - close the greenhouse or cover the bed with film.
  • Grow varieties resistant to powdery mildew.

How to treat with folk remedies?

To get rid of powdery mildew, the plant is sprayed mullein infusion. To prepare it, take 1 kg of mullein, fill it with 3 liters of water and leave for 3 days. After this, the infusion is filtered and mixed with 3 liters of new, clean water.

Also suitable is a folk remedy prepared based on sour milk, diluted with warm water (in a 1:1 ratio). Spray cucumbers once a week.

Can be treated with soda solution. For a bucket of warm water, add 50 grams of baking soda and 50 grams of laundry soap. Repeat spraying every 5-7 days.

Spraying with a solution of potassium permanganate also helps - 2 grams per 10 liters of water. They moisten not only the diseased plant, but also the neighboring ones and the ground around them.

Spray with the preparation Fitosporin at the first signs of leaf damage. You can also spray for prevention. This drug is safe for people and plants - cucumbers can be harvested on the day of treatment. But, usually, the crop is harvested in the morning and then the solution is sprayed on the leaves.

Chemical aids

In case of severe damage, treat with fungicides or copper-containing preparations (for example, HOM).

You can also treat it with colloidal sulfur - a 20% aqueous solution. The treatment is carried out in cloudy weather.

Downy mildew - downy mildew

Downy mildew affects plants of any age, both in greenhouses and in open ground.

Signs:

When affected by peronosporosis, cucumber leaves become covered with numerous light yellow spots. Over time, the leaves of the infected crop become brown and gradually dry out. If the disease is not treated, then gradually all the leaves dry out, followed by the whip.

Common causes of the disease:

The causative agent of the disease is a fungus. High humidity is a favorable environment for its reproduction, and can also be provoked by watering with cold water.

Prevention:

  • Do not water with cold water
  • Plant cucumbers less often - do not thicken the plantings
  • Ventilate the greenhouse
  • Collect fruits on time
  • Treat seeds before planting
  • Remove plant debris - spores can overwinter in them
  • Plant disease-resistant and early-ripening varieties

What to do if you get sick?

At the first signs of the disease, stop watering and fertilizing.

This disease, unlike, does not affect the fruits, so they can continue to grow calmly.

Folk remedies:

An excellent preventive measure for combating downy mildew is a whey solution.

To displace pathogenic spores, spraying with Fitosporin, the drug Baikal-EM, helps.

You can spray with kefir and iodine (1 drop per liter).

Or pollinate the garden bed with ash.

All these remedies are harmless to people - they can be used during fruit growth.

Chemical treatments

Although I am not a supporter of chemical control methods, you need to know about them.

Fungi don't like copper. Therefore, you can treat with Bordeaux mixture (dissolve 100 grams of copper sulfate and lime in a bucket of warm water) or a copper-soap solution (20 grams of copper sulfate and 200 grams of soap per bucket of water).

Treatment with fungicides, of which there are many in stores, also helps. Be sure to follow the instructions for use and adhere to the deadlines for collecting fruits after spraying.

After treatment with a special agent, the temperature in the greenhouse should not fall below +25°C. When growing cucumbers in open ground, they are covered with film at night.

Brown olive spot - cladosporiosis

Signs:

The first signs of brown spot are olive spots on the stems and fruits of cucumbers. Then brown sores appear on the fruits - the fruits lose their marketable appearance, and if severely damaged, they are not edible. This dangerous disease can deprive us of our harvest in a week, so quickly the plants and cucumbers are damaged.

Causes:

Cladosporiosis develops under unfavorable weather conditions - constant precipitation, temperature changes.

When watering with cold water from above, over the leaves.

As a rule, the disease makes itself felt at the end of the growing season, when it gets colder at night and a lot of dew falls.

In most cases, cucumbers become infected with cladospiriosis due to fungal spores that remain on vegetable residues.

Prevention:

To prevent the plant from becoming infected with this terrible disease, it is necessary:

  • regularly ventilate the greenhouse,
  • use warm water for irrigation,
  • do not forget to remove plant debris from the beds,
  • do not plant cucumbers in the shade,
  • water at the root
  • water in the greenhouse in the morning

Treatment:

When the first signs of the disease are detected, do not water the plant for several days; raise the average daily temperature in the greenhouse above +18°C if it is cold. In hot weather, ventilate the greenhouse, remove the film from the garden bed (if covered).

Then treat with preparations containing copper (Hom, Bordeaux mixture, oxych, etc.) or fungicides.

Biological preparations can be treated with Fitosporin.

Treat plants only with a sprayer, do not water them with a watering can. Then dry the leaves - open the windows.

Fusarium wilt

Fusarium wilt is most often encountered by gardeners who grow cucumbers in greenhouses. First, the tops of the plant and individual leaves wither, then the root collars rot.

The trigger for the development of the disease is high humidity. The causative agent of Fusarium wilt is transmitted through seeds and soil. But it usually appears after the start of fruiting - the bush begins to gradually fade and quickly stops bearing fruit and withers completely.

At elevated temperatures and lack of watering, the disease develops rapidly - all infected bushes can wither in a few days.

Warning in, and cleaning of plant residues. To displace pathogenic fungi from the soil, it is spilled with a solution of Fitosporin or Trichodermin, a week before planting seedlings or seeds. Also, adding high-quality compost helps the soil become healthier.

This pathogen is very resistant to chemicals and is best prevented from spreading. With good care and timely watering, healthy plants do not get sick even if there are pathogens in the soil.

Gray rot

Gray mold develops in conditions of high humidity.

The cause of its occurrence may be watering with cold water, especially thickening of plantings and low night temperatures.

The first sign of the disease is a gray slippery coating that appears on the fruit at the point of flower attachment and on the stems, then becomes covered with gray fluff.

For prevention:

  • observe crop rotation,
  • treat the greenhouse and bed after harvesting,
  • do not thicken the plantings,
  • observe care and carry out preventive treatments.

If cucumbers are sick with gray rot:

  1. Stop watering for 2-3 days,
  2. The greenhouse is well ventilated,
  3. Remove all diseased fruits and leaves.
  4. put the lashes in order: cut off excess parts, hang loose ones for better ventilation.
  5. At the same time, do not forget to remove barren flowers, as well as damaged parts of plants.
  6. Dust the sections with copper-chalk powder, ash or a mixture of ash and chalk (mix in a glass and add a teaspoon of copper sulfate).

In case of severe damage, the diseased shoots are cut out or the bush is completely removed and burned, the plants are sprayed with Fitosporin or Trichodermin (according to the instructions). Or the drugs Hom, Oxyx.

White rot

When white rot disease occurs, multiple white bodies appear on cucumbers. Over time they become darker in color. After this, all parts of the plant are completely covered with a white slimy coating.

Sclerotia fungi multiply quickly when the air is too humid and the soil is waterlogged.

For preventive purposes, thickening of cucumber crops is avoided, crop rotation is observed and plant remains are removed from the beds in a timely manner.

Damaged parts of the plant are removed, the sections are treated with lime, charcoal or a mixture of copper sulfate and chalk in half.

You can spray the plants with a serum solution (3 liters of whey, 7 liters of water and a teaspoon of copper sulfate).

Chemicals used include Oksikhom, Khom, Topaz (according to instructions). Spraying is carried out after harvesting.

After the last harvest of fruits, the bed is treated with a solution (50 grams of copper sulfate per bucket of water). Then they leave it for a day, then collect all plant residues, cucumber vines with roots and burn them outside the site.

Root rot

It affects the plant at any stage of growth - from seedlings to a mature bush.

The roots begin to hurt - they become brown, dry out - the root system dies, then the root collar dries out and becomes thinner, the stem and the plant die.

Occurs when:

  • watering with cold water,
  • too dense plantings,
  • deep planting of seeds,
  • sudden changes in daily temperature.

The disease persists in plant debris and soil.

For warning:

  • observe crop rotation,
  • pour warm water,
  • do not cover the stems too high with soil,
  • try to equalize the temperature in the greenhouse, cover the bed at night when it gets cold.

If you notice the onset of the disease near the roots, necessary:

  1. rake the soil away from the stems,
  2. treat the roots, stems and soil nearby with a disinfectant solution (dilute 2 teaspoons of copper sulfate in one liter of water and stir 6 tablespoons of ash or lime.
  3. You can dust the stems and roots with ash or chalk and dry well.
  4. Cover the roots with soil when they dry out after treatment.
  5. Dig up dead bushes and burn them.

Field mosaic

The carrier of the common mosaic is the aphid. When the disease occurs, the leaves of cucumbers become yellow-green in the form of a mosaic. Then they curl, dry out and fall off. The plant weakens greatly and at the first drop in temperature stops growing and dies.

The mosaic virus overwinters in weeds (in the roots of quinoa, woodlice, wheatgrass, bindweed) - so it is difficult to fight it. This disease is not transmitted by seeds.

For prevention, plants are sprayed with a 50% serum solution (diluted 1:1 with water), and at the onset of the disease with an undiluted solution.

You can spray with a solution of phytosporin (according to the instructions). To prevent the disease, not only the plants, but the ground around them are sprayed.

To prevent disease, weeds are removed.

White and green speckled mosaic

Among the signs of a white mosaic is that individual white or yellowish spots first appear, and then they merge into a common spot and the leaf becomes white with green veins. The growth of vines slows down, and there are few female flowers on such plants. It is also transmitted to the fruits - small depressions appear on them, the flesh becomes dense, the peel turns yellow.

With a green mottled mosaic, the leaves become wrinkled with light spots. Plants are also stunted and the fruits become deformed with a mosaic color.

Unlike ordinary mosaic, the virus is transmitted through infected seeds and can also persist in the soil and plant debris.

The disease is usually provoked by a sharp increase in temperature from +20°C to 30°C and above. It develops quickly in greenhouses, greenhouses, and closed beds, especially with sudden temperature changes and dense plantings.

To avoid infection, the seeds are treated and warmed before planting. The best way to avoid illness is good care.

For prevention purposes:

  • sprayed with a weak serum solution,
  • remove damaged leaves and shoots immediately,
  • plant plants at the optimal distance,
  • remove weeds,
  • fight aphids - the main carrier of the disease,
  • pour warm water
  • remove and burn diseased plants

Video about cucumber diseases

Why do the leaves turn yellow?

Many gardeners experience premature yellowing of leaves. If there are no diseases, and the leaves begin to turn yellow early, then the reason lies in a lack of potassium, magnesium or sudden temperature changes.

You can smooth out the temperature regime by covering the plants with film at night.

If there is not enough potassium, the cucumbers are sprayed with an infusion of ash.

Onion infusion is quite effective. It is prepared in a metal bucket. Add 50 grams of onion peels to 10 liters of warm water. The contents should boil, and after that the infusion is cooled and filtered. Cucumbers with yellow leaves are watered with a slightly warm infusion.

Cucumbers turn yellow if not watered correctly:

  • Water often, but not enough. In this case, only the top layer of soil is moistened and the vines and leaves do not have enough nutrition.
  • Water rarely, but abundantly. Excess moisture can cause roots to rot and leaves to wither and turn yellow. Or with light sandy soils, the water will drain quickly and the plants will lack moisture.

It is necessary to ensure regular watering of cucumbers, loosen and mulch the soil after watering.

It is easier to prevent cucumber diseases than to look for treatment methods. If this is necessary, then try to defeat the disease using traditional methods so as not to poison the crop.

Chemicals are used in extreme cases.

I wish you healthy and beautiful cucumber beds!

Sincerely, Sofya Guseva.

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