Nicaraguan cichlazoma description. Nicaraguan cichlid is an exotic aquarium fish. Lifestyle of Nicaraguan cichlizoma

Seeing a gray inconspicuous fry with a black stripe in the middle of the body in the store, it is difficult to imagine that it is one of the most beautiful, but underrated cichlids - Nicaraguan cichlids. You can rarely see them in breeders' aquariums, because they are not very popular. But in vain, such a large and colorful fish should not be ignored.

With age, the Nicaraguan cichlazoma (lat. Hypsophrys nicaraguensis) only becomes more beautiful, changing its olive color to a bright golden-azure color. Neon blue covers the head and gill covers of the fish, smoothly turning into a yellow-orange color. The abdomen becomes reddish, and a black collar stretches along the body. With age, this stripe may fade or even disappear completely, leaving two points - in the middle of the body and near the tail. Transparent fins have a turquoise edge; males have black spots on their unpaired fins.

The first fish was caught in the Nicaragua River, which flows in Central America. In addition to this reservoir, it is found in the San Juan River basin and in the volcanic lakes of Costa Rica. It appeared in Russian aquariums in 1979.

The Nicaraguan cichlid is a fairly large fish, growing up to 25 cm in nature, and up to 20 cm in a home aquarium. In order for it to live comfortably, it is worth providing it with enough space and a large number of shelters - like all cichlids, it is a territorial creature.

• aquarium volume – 100 liters per couple; in small, overcrowded containers they show aggression and cockiness;
• grottoes and, which will be used as shelters;
• soil – fine rolled gravel, quartz sand, in which fish will happily burrow;
• tough-leaved plants with a well-developed root system - tender shoots will be eaten, and unsupported vegetation will be dug up;
• filtration and aeration are required;
• temperature: 24-27 °C;
• hardness: 10-20 dH;
• acidity: 7-8 pH;
• weekly water changes 25-30%;
• moderate lighting; if there is insufficient lighting, cichlazomas will have a dark color; if too much, they will fade.

She is not picky about feeding, eats all types of dry and live food:

• bloodworm;
• coretra.

Since in nature a significant part of the diet is plant food, do not forget about fertilizing:

• tablets with added spirulina;
• cucumber;
• zucchini;
• spinach;
• salad.

Sex differences

Like others, the Nicaraguan cichlid is monogamous and chooses a mate for life. It is impossible to determine the sex before the onset of puberty, so it is worth taking a school of fish of 6-8 pieces and raising them together to give you the opportunity to choose a suitable mate.

The fish have become sexually mature - it’s time to determine their gender. Fortunately, sexual dimorphism in adults is clearly pronounced:

Breeding

As soon as a pair is selected, when the individuals reach sexual maturity, which occurs at 8-9 months, it is worth thinking about reproduction. Spawning can take place both in a general aquarium and in a spawning tank.

• The second option is preferable, since it eliminates concern due to the aggressive behavior of neighbors, and also allows the fry to be provided with high-quality care.
• If spawning occurs in an undesirable location, it is better not to transplant the spawners, otherwise they may become stressed and eat the eggs.

As a spawning tank, you can use a 50-60-liter aquarium in which the breeders are placed. The bottom is lined with fine gravel, in which the female can dig a hole and use it as a nest. To stimulate spawning it is necessary:

• raise the water temperature to 27-29 °C;
• increase the proportion of high-protein feeds in the diet;
• periodically replace 30% of the water with fresh water.

After the couple is ready to spawn, the male performs his mating dance, and the female digs a hole in the ground and lays eggs in it, which are immediately fertilized by the male. The eggs of the Nicaraguan cichlazoma are non-sticky and quite large - 2 mm in diameter. The clutch size can range from 400 to 1000 eggs, it all depends on the size and age of the female.

While the male jealously guards the nest, the female takes care of the clutch, carefully sorting out the eggs. The incubation period lasts from 2 to 4 days, after which the larvae hatch with a yolk sac. 4-5 days after hatching, this sac dissolves, and the fry begin to swim in search of food. It's time for starter feed.

Care of juveniles

“Live dust” is used as a starter feed. It is best to prepare it before spawning in order to satisfy the fry’s need for nutritious food in time. To prepare it, a culture of ciliates is taken and diluted in a jar. A few drops of milk and a dried banana peel are used to feed the colony, and the jar itself should be covered with a lid and kept in a dark and warm place.

In addition to “live dust”, fry can be given:

• small daphnia;
• Artemia nauplii;
• Cyclops;
• grated boiled yolk.

As they grow older, larger foods are added to the diet of the juveniles.

All this time, the parents protect the offspring, help them eat, lifting mud from the bottom and biting into large food for them. But as soon as the juveniles reach a size of about 1 cm, it is better to remove the breeders, because their parental instinct disappears, and they will not mind snacking on their brood.

In order for the fry to grow healthy, the nursery aquarium must be kept clean. It is necessary to remove dead fry and leftover food in a timely manner, otherwise they may decompose and spoil the water. It is advisable to grade the brood, removing fish that are lagging in growth and providing them with intensive nutrition.

Compatibility

Nicaraguan cichlids are moderately aggressive cichlids. They show their cockiness during the spawning period or during overcrowding. It is best to keep them in a species aquarium with fish of similar size and temperament.

The Nicaraguan cichlid appeared behind the glass of our artificial lakes relatively recently. Since its appearance, this aquarium fish has always been popular among cichlid lovers due to its original appearance and coloring. Over time, its popularity is only growing.

Original name: Heros nicaraguensis.

Synonyms: Copora nicaraguensis, Copora nicaraguense, Herichthys nicaraguensis, Cichlasoma nicaraguense, Theraps nicaraguensis, Heros balteatus, Hypsophrys unimaculatus, Cichlasoma spilotum, Cichlasoma balteatum.
Russian name: Cichlazoma Nicaraguan.
Other languages: Butterfly cichlid, Nicaragua Cichlid, Traumbarsch, Nicaragua-cichlide, Moga, Spilotum, Rotfleckcichlide, Nikaragua Buntbarsch.

Habitat: Slowly flowing lakes on the Pacific slope of Central America. The type specimen was caught in Lake Nicaragua, to which the species owes one of its names. It is also found in the volcanic lakes of Costa Rica and the San Juan River basin.

Description: Appeared in our country in 1979.
The male's body length in nature reaches 25 centimeters. Females are usually somewhat smaller. When kept in aquarium conditions, the maximum dimensions rarely exceed 20 centimeters. The lower edge of the head forms an almost straight line with the lower edge of the anal fin. Whereas the upper outlines of the body have the form of an arc, the maximum of which occurs at the articulation of the head with the body and then towards the tail there is a gradual narrowing of the upper-lower size. Which gives the animal some resemblance to a drop. Unpaired dorsal and anal

the fins extend to the base of the tail. They are transparent and have a turquoise edging. The back half of the body is colored predominantly in yellow-brown tones of varying intensities with

metallic luster, more pronounced at the tail part of the body. The front part of the body and head are turquoise. In young individuals the coloring is less striking. From the eyes to the base of the tail

there is a dark stripe stretching across the fin. With age, this stripe may disappear, leaving behind only two round spots on each side. One is located approximately in the middle of the body, the second near the base of the tail. These spots, like the stripe, can have varying degrees of severity depending on the general condition of the fish. The abdomen may have orange-pink hues, which are more pronounced during the spawning period.

As with most cichlasomas, the clearest signs of sex differences are in Cichlazoma Nicaraguan appear during spawning. They are represented by a trapezoidal ovipositor in the female and a cone-shaped

sperm duct in the male. In addition to these absolute characteristics, the sex of adult fish can be determined by the size and color of the fins. Females are somewhat smaller and more graceful than their gentlemen. However, it should be noted that female fry grow faster and have brighter colors than males. Therefore, focusing only on body size and color intensity in young specimens, it is very easy to make a mistake in determining gender. In males, as they age, a fatty growth appears on the head. Also, their paired fins have quite pronounced dark spots. In females, the paired fins are transparent and unpatterned.

Fish aquarium Cichlazoma Nicaraguan should be from 100 liters per couple.
The soil can be fine gravel or pebbles. Also, the bottom can be covered with medium-sized white sand with a large amount of silt. The bottom can and even is desirable to decorate with large flat stones and driftwood. A couple of man-made grottoes, caves and rocks wouldn’t be out of place either.

Small plants with tender greens will be eaten. But representatives of the flora with hard, large leaves and a well-developed root system can quite safely be near the Nicaraguan cichlid.

Water parameters are not much different from those for keeping other Central American cichlases. Temperature 24 - 27°C. Hardness 10-20°dH. pH = 7-8°.

Lighting should be selected in accordance with the needs of the plants that you decide to use when decorating the aquarium. You should just always take into account that with insufficient lighting, not only will the plants develop poorly, but the fish will also have a dark color. And if the lighting is too bright, the water may “bloom”, and the fish will again lose color - their color will become faded or “erased off”

semitones. Learn from nature - strive for the golden mean.

Fish aquarium Nicaraguan cichlazoma must be equipped with both mechanical and biological systems. Cichlids do not like muddy, dirty waters. Additional aeration is also necessary. Cichlazoma Nicaraguan needs a large amount of dissolved in water.
Compatibility is quite good, despite periodic reports of Heros nicaraguensis being too cocky. Most likely, their cockiness manifests itself in overcrowded dwellings. In general, it is advisable to follow general recommendations to reduce conflict with cichlid. If possible, raise fish for joint keeping from juvenile age. Keep fish of comparable size and similar temperament together. Do not overpopulate the aquarium. Create rocks and cave grottoes at the bottom, dividing the bottom of an indoor lake into small isolated areas. Thickets of plants can also help with this. Feed on time. When introducing a new fish into a common aquarium, separate it with a glass partition until the residents get used to the newcomer.

In the wild Cichlazoma Nicaraguan feeds on small fish, mollusks, small crustaceans, and plants with rough foliage. At home they can be fed with earthworms, dry and frozen food. Vegetable supplements are required - lettuce, dandelion, nettle, oatmeal. As always, it is better to feed more often in small portions.
For the first time, breeding in aquarium conditions in our country was described by Kochetv in 1980. Spawning took place in a 60 liter aquarium. The sires were 7 centimeters male and 6 centimeters female. About 8 months old.
The Nicaraguan cichlid can spawn in a general aquarium, but it is still better to provide it with a separate spawning area.
It is advisable to maintain the following water parameters in the spawning area. 27 -29°C. Hardness 10 -15°dH. pH = 7-7.5°. Increasing the temperature, as well as replacing 30% of the water with fresh water stimulates spawning. Sometimes during the week it may be necessary to completely replace up to two volumes of water (30% every day).
The bottom should be covered with fine gravel, pebbles or sand. Cichlazoma Nicaraguan spawns in holes specially dug in the ground. A couple of grottoes made of large stones or a small canyon will also not hurt. Fish also happily lay eggs in such shelters. During one spawning, the female can spawn from 400 to 1000 transparent light yellow eggs with a diameter of up to 2 millimeters. The older the female, the more eggs. The caviar of this species is not sticky. The female takes care of the eggs, as if trying all the time to collect these grains, which look like glass balls, into one pile. In fact, this constant transfer of eggs is a necessary mixing for their normal maturation. The father of the family is not idle at this time either. He selflessly protects the approaches to the masonry from any encroachment.
The incubation period lasts from 2 to 4 days. And after another 5 - 7 days, the fry, under the supervision of their parents, will swim in search of the first dinner in their lives. Starter food is live dust. Nauplii and cyclops, small daphnia. As the fish grow, they should be switched to larger feeds.

Additional information: Cichlazoma Nicaraguan sometimes helps protect the eggs and fry of other fish. For example, ichthyologist Kenneth Mack described how male Nicaraguan cichlids guarded juvenile Parachromis dovii. At the same time, the parents of the brood never attacked the volunteers, although under normal conditions they sometimes would not mind snacking on them.

The Nicaraguan cichlid is rightfully considered unique among. And this is connected not only and not so much with her appearance.

Description of Nicaraguan cichlizoma

First of all, a few words about the appearance of Nicaraguan women. Like all cichlids, the Nicaraguan cichlid (a synonym for the name of these fish) has its own unusual and quite bright color. The back of the body is painted in yellow-brown tones with a pronounced metallic sheen. The head and front part of the teardrop-shaped body have a turquoise color of varying intensity depending on age (in young individuals the color is not so pronounced). The edging of the fins is the same turquoise color. A dark stripe runs along the entire body, and the abdomen shimmers in all shades of orange and pink. The fish is very impressive.

And now about the features of these fish. Cichlazoma Nicaraguan is the only cichlid that lays non-sticky eggs and does not incubate them in the mouth. Typically, fish dig a hole in the ground (small pebbles, granite chips or white river sand) and lay eggs in a pile, constantly stirring them. Although they can gladly use some kind of shelter, for example, an inverted flower pot at the bottom of a “reservoir”.

The next distinctive feature of this cichlazoma, which relates rather to the peculiarities of its content, is plant foods in the diet. In an aquarium, Nicaraguans happily eat dandelion leaves, lettuce, even rolled oats flakes, although live food (bloodworms, tubifex, very small fish) must also be present. Therefore, it makes no sense to plant plants with delicate greenery in the soil of the aquarium - they will be instantly eaten. In all other respects, the maintenance of Nicaraguan cichlazoma does not differ from the general rules for keeping these fish - a sufficient volume of water (about 100 liters per couple), mechanical and biological purification of water, followed by.

Compatibility of Cichlazoma Nicaraguan with other fish

This “character trait” of the Nicaraguan cichlid, which can also be attributed to the characteristics of this species, is worth mentioning separately. The Nicaraguan is a relatively peaceful fish, unlike its other relatives, and gets along well with other sized inhabitants of aquariums. We can say that she lives according to the principle - if it doesn’t fit in her mouth, then you are not food, you can swim.

The Nicaraguan cichlasoma Hypsophrys nicaraguensis (formerly Cichlasoma nicaraguense) is an unusual fish in its coloring and body shape. Nicaraguan males are larger than females, but females are much more beautiful looking.

The color of the body largely depends on the place where they live in the wild, but the most beautiful color is a diamond-golden body, a bright blue head and gill covers, and a purple abdomen.

Interestingly, despite the fact that the Nicaraguan cichlid is one of the most brightly colored cichlids, its juveniles are inconspicuous, brown in color and do not attract attention. Apparently, therefore, it is not very common, since it is difficult to sell it and make money while the fry is dim.

But, if you know exactly what kind of fish this is, then this is one of the most beautiful cichlids that will delight you for many years.

This is an excellent fish for both experienced and advanced aquarists. Like all cichlids, the Nicaraguan is territorial and can be aggressive towards its neighbors.

But still, it is not too aggressive, especially compared to other large cichlids of Central America.

Habitat in nature

Cichlazoma Nicaraguan was first described by Gunther in 1864. It lives in Central America: in Lake Nicaragua, in the Matina River in Costa Rica.

They are found in lakes and rivers with weak or medium currents. Juveniles feed on insects, but adults move on to detritus, seeds, algae, snails and other invertebrates.

Description

The body of the Nicaraguan cichlazoma is stocky and strong, with a very curved head and a lower mouth. This is a fairly large fish that grows up to 25 cm in length. With good care, Nicaraguan cichlid can live up to 15 years.

Her body is golden-copper with a blue head. A wide black stripe runs through the central line, with a large black dot in the middle. The pectoral fins are transparent, and the rest have black dots.

As a rule, fish that are caught in the wild are more brightly colored than those bred in an aquarium.

Difficulty in content

The Nicaraguan cichlid is a large, but rather peaceful fish. It is not difficult to maintain, but it still requires some experience, since its size imposes its own limitations.

However, if a novice aquarist can provide a spacious aquarium, clean water, proper feeding and neighbors, then there will be no problems with maintenance.

Feeding

The Nicaraguan cichlasoma is omnivorous; in nature it feeds mainly on plant foods - algae, plants, leaves, detritus, as well as snails and other invertebrates. In the aquarium they eat all types of live, frozen and artificial food.

The basis of feeding can be made of high-quality artificial food for large cichlids, and additionally give brine shrimp, bloodworms, snails, worms, and shrimp meat.

They also love vegetables: zucchini, cucumbers, salad, or tablets with

Feeds made from mammalian meat (for example, beef heart) should be given sparingly, as they contain large amounts of fat and protein, are poorly digested and lead to fish obesity.

Since quite a lot of waste remains after feeding, you need to change about 20% of the water weekly and be sure to siphon the bottom.

In the aquarium, it is worth creating a biotope reminiscent of a river in Central America: a sandy bottom, many shelters among stones and snags.

Since the Nicaraguan one really likes to dig in the soil, it makes sense to keep plants only in pots and hard-leaved species. They can also tear off and eat young leaves, especially during spawning.

Compatibility with other fish

Like all cichlids, the Nicaraguan is territorial and aggressive when defending its territory. However, she is less aggressive than other cichlids of her size.

Sex differences

It is not easy to distinguish females from males in Nicaraguan cichlids. The male is larger and has a more pointed dorsal fin.

In addition, the male develops a fatty lump on his head, although in nature this is temporary and only appears during spawning. The female is smaller than the male and is usually more brightly colored.

Breeding

Nicaraguan cichlisoma successfully reproduces in an aquarium. They lay their eggs in holes, but should be considered monogamous pairs that need plenty of caves and hiding places.

They dig a hole in the shelter, since Nicaraguan caviar is not sticky and they cannot attach it to the walls of the shelter.

The female lays eggs, which are transparent and quite large (2 mm). At a temperature of 26° C, it hatches on the third day, and after another 4-5 days, the fry will swim.

From now on, it can be fed with Artemia nauplii. The parents always look after the eggs and fry; more precisely, the female looks after her, and the male protects her.

Cichlazoma Nicaraguan. Latin name: Corora nicaraguense (Gunther, 1864). Synonyms: cichlasoma nicaraguense.

Habitat: lakes of Nicaragua and rivers of the adjacent basin. In nature, they stay close to rocky ridges.

Distinctive features:

Length up to 25 cm, less in an aquarium. The body is slender, strongly flattened laterally.

The color varies greatly, so its descriptions in literary sources are somewhat different from each other.

G. Stahlknecht: “The juveniles are golden-yellow to brownish with a metallic sheen on the sides and on the first half of the “D”, the head is green-blue. Depending on how you feel, the black longitudinal stripe running from the eye to the base of “C” can be rich or pale, and the dark spot in the middle of the body becomes either well or poorly visible.”

G. Shterba: “Color varies greatly. Dark yellow to light brown, scales with a golden sheen and dark edges, especially in the posterior half of the body. The head, chest and partly also the front part of the body are greenish to light blue. The iris of the eye is golden. Depending on the mood, a longitudinal stripe of dark brown to black color appears, running from the eye, through the middle of the body, to the root “C”. This stripe and spots disappear with age. An adult male often has a fat pad on his forehead. The unpaired fins are yellowish to light brown with dark spots and streaks. "D" and especially "A" with a green-blue border. The female is contrastingly colored. The longitudinal stripe and pattern of dots are clearly visible in adult specimens. Below the longitudinal stripe the body is rich red to brilliant golden. Unpaired fins without dark dots or streaks. There is no fat pad. Juveniles with 6–7 unclear transverse stripes.”

A. Brühlmeier: “The main color of the male’s body is clay-yellow to ocher, the head shines with a greenish-bluish color. The scales on the body are golden in oblique lighting. "D" is reddish-golden, the outer edge is blue. The outer edge of the soft ray part is light red. The entire "D" is in dark brown strokes and dots. “C” is light brown, the upper edge is red, the lower edge is blue. The entire “C” is covered in dots and dashes. The "A" in the area of ​​the spiny rays is green-blue, the rest is golden and covered with dark dots and streaks.

Female with intense greenish-blue coloration of the head and the first third of the body. The rest of the body is reddish copper in color. There is a large black spot in the middle of the body; a narrow dark stripe runs through it from the lower edge of the gill cover to the base of “C”.

With age, the pattern of brownish stripes and dots becomes more intense, and a dark border appears on the scales in the back of the body. In old males, the body becomes teardrop-shaped, and a fat pad appears on the forehead.”

O. Rybakov: “The males are turquoise-yellow, unpaired fins with a reddish mosaic pattern, and during the spawning period they and the lower part of the body become red. The female is smaller and paler in color. Juveniles are gray-yellow, with a dark longitudinal stripe.”

A group of fish can be kept in a community aquarium of 100 liters or more with sandy soil, flat stones, stone caves, stone structures and plants with a strong root system. Water: 24 - 27°C, dH 10-20°, pH 7.2 - 8.5.

Breeding:

Spawning can occur both in a general aquarium and in a spawning aquarium of 60 liters for a couple, arranged in the same way. Spawning is stimulated by an increase in temperature to 27-29°C and fresh water (about ⅓ of the volume). S. Kochetov and A. Polonsky recommend water with dH 9°, O. Rybakov - dH 8-12°. Having formed a territory, the couple digs holes and lays eggs (400 - 1000 pieces) both in them and on a stone or in a cave. The eggs are 1.8 mm in size, sand-colored. B. Kal et al. write that eggs laid in a hole are non-sticky, unlike eggs laid on a solid substrate. Typically, the female cares for the eggs and offspring, while the male guards the territory. The incubation period is 2 - 4 days, and after another 4 - 5 days the fry swim under the protection of their parents. Starter food: “live dust”. Sexual maturity at 9 - 16 months with a length of 6 - 9 cm.

An interesting case is described by A. Bruhlmeier. A pair preparing for spawning dug holes in the ground, but did not lay eggs either in them or in a flower pot with a hole punched in the wall. However, after a decorative jug was placed in the aquarium, she successfully spawned in it.

Feeding:

Food: live (take frozen), additionally algae. S. Kochetov writes: “In nature they feed on algae, insect larvae and small snails. This must be taken into account to ensure the fish are healthy, brightly colored and able to reproduce.”

Other:

The fish are relatively peace-loving, territorial, do not dig much, and stay in the middle and lower layers of water. O. Rybakov reports that there are known cases of their assistance in protecting eggs and larvae of other species of cichlids.